View Full Version : Welcome to Wash & Wax

04-27-2005, 04:03 AM
Its all about application, you can use the best products, but applying them wrong takes a step back and is throwing money away.

A clean celica looks better than a fast one, but a car cleaned badly will start to look wrong quickly.

There's a lot more to it than simply throwing some water and soap followed by a wax.

Paying attention to details assures a clean ride.

So check in on us in all weathers to get those tips or share the products you find useful.

Body work, trim and seals, engine bays and interior can all look great, catch you on the threads.

Carlos. :waveoz:

01-03-2008, 06:33 AM
how about we start with engine bay cleaning?

01-30-2008, 05:07 PM
Purple Power and a pressure washer work great.

01-31-2008, 06:42 PM
Is there anything we should cover before we wash the engine other than an intake filter?

01-31-2008, 07:37 PM
dizzy and sensors?

I dont think we have 'purple power' here in NZ, whats something simular??

01-31-2008, 09:34 PM
In all honesty you can use any engine degreaser and it will do just fine. Common problem with the Celica engine bays are that they look dated. On my SC300 there are a lot of plastic covers that make the car appear newer, so you can detail the engine and have it look like new.

If you can, you should paint the engine bay walls flat black to offset some of the other colors under the hood. It looks great!

As far as covering stuff goes, just make sure you keep away from the dist and intake like previously said. If you have any exposed wire or connectors, make sure to address that.

08-22-2008, 03:19 AM
basically, use plastic bags or anything plastic like to cover up as many electrical components as you can, as well as the dizzy. and intake filter. also, keep the car running while doing the spraying. spray the degreaser on and let it sit for a few minutes before washing it down. this will allow it to break the dirt and contaminants loose and make it easier to wash off.

once you have washed the cleaner and dirt off and you dry it down(with a rag or air hose) you can do the fine details.

a good way to finish it all off is with a nice coat of tire shine. i usually apply it to the hoses and plastic areas. it gives it a nice shimmer.

-sea foam makes a wide variety of quality engine degreasers(foam, gel, original)
-black magic also makes a great degreaser/detailer
-purlpe power works good as an all around degreaser/cleaner

07-27-2009, 08:40 AM
Whats up guys?

Well I just bought a 6gC and I want to clean it up as much as possible? The cars paint is still in practically new condition still shines (except for hood, one fender, and spoiler which are losing clearcoat) ,so what would you guys say would make the best outcome I want to have it clean inside and out?

Should I remove the spoiler to remove dirt trapped under it? Lol I know a little to much but like I said I want it clean all around, so any advice would be thanked and picked up from.

It's a 96 Celica 25th Anni. Edition ST if that helps.

07-28-2009, 02:19 AM
for the engine bay is it required to take the engine out to paint the engine bay or there other options?

11-08-2009, 08:30 AM
hey guys
i got the very popular faded super red paint. i want to polish it to bring at least some of the orginal colour back.
has anyone else done this? did you use abresive or not? what kind of products did you use? any tips? or any other solutions other than a $500 crappy mayco paint job?

any help would be appreciated
thanks guys!

11-08-2009, 10:44 AM
You can get short-term results with a polish followed by a wax. You can get longer term results if you use a clay bar, followed by an abrasive polish or compound, then a sealant.

I'm a Meguiar's guy, so my suggestions for products are Ultimate Compound or ScratchX 2.0 to restore the finish, then NXT 2.0 or Gold Class Wax, depending on whether you prefer the look of polymer or carnauba. Clay bars from Meguiar's or Mother's are both equally appropriate for a new user, as they come with the necessary lubricant.

Give you an idea of the results of clay bar + ScratchX 2.0 + NXT. http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41843 The polishing was done with a Porter Cable 7424, which is a random orbital sander/grinder/polisher. Meguiar's sells a G110, which is a more specialized version of the same design.

11-08-2009, 09:06 PM
so if i use the clay bar, then abresive polish and a sealent
what should i buy? i noticed your from richmond, can i get this stuff at canadian tire?
and what kind of results do you think there will be if it gets done right?

11-09-2009, 10:41 AM
To answer most of your your questions, read my post above. Canadian Tire, Lordco, NAPA, Home Hardware -- pretty much any auto parts store will carry some selection.

As for the results, well, it depends on how much time and effort you're willing to put into it. I'd not want to try to restore a finish without a random orbital polisher, but then I have surgically repaired shoulders.

Good places to read up on technique: meguiarsonline.com or autopia.org.

Actually, a 6gc member recently posted her results on a faded red car. They're proof of what a lot of work can do: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=70319&hl=

11-09-2009, 12:23 PM
Huh, why are no threads displayed in Wash & Wax, when I can find them via search?

The Captain
11-09-2009, 12:56 PM
Problem with using Purple Power/Castrol Super Clean is that both etch aluminum. It will make a bare valve cover look dark and dull. I recommend using Simple Green. It's not as caustic as the others and is biodegradable without losing effectiveness. I always connect my garden hose to my water heater and use scalding hot water. Pressure washing can penetrate engine parts. Always best to clean a warm engine, but if it's not running you can soak it down with the hot water. For really stubborn, thick grease I use WD-40 and a toothbrush, followed by Simple Green.

For tools I use a bottle sponge, a bottle brush, toothbrush and regular sponge. Scrub with Simple Green and hose off with hot water. I've found that using a light spray means you don't have to worry about sensitive electrical components.

01-24-2010, 09:52 PM
^I like The Captain's cleaning tools.

09-11-2011, 04:44 AM
Anyone have positive experience with FW1 wax?

The Captain
09-11-2011, 12:47 PM
Never tried it. Never been much of the waterless fan.

09-20-2011, 12:25 AM
So I am ready to attack the paint on my MR2. Ordered a porter cable orbital polisher/sander and sanding block and some 2500 and 3000 grit wet sanding paper. I already have some Meguiars ultimate compound and carnauba wax.

Anything else I should need? Clearcoat has bad water damage, etching, and some oxidation.

09-20-2011, 01:32 AM

The Captain
09-20-2011, 01:51 AM
Probably going to need more than that compound. I'd get some 3M rough cut, fine cut and swirl remover. Finish with glaze. The proper pads too.

09-20-2011, 02:02 AM
I got some pads from Adams polishes. It's like 4 different levels.

09-20-2011, 02:08 AM
Ultimate Compound's pretty powerful stuff -- it's as powerful a compound as Meguiar's makes, short of a couple of the professional products. I second the comment on pads, however, as they make a significant difference in how effective a product can be. You might want to spend some time at Meguiarsonline.com to get walkthroughs on using the PC with UC.

It'd also be advisable to look at a finishing polish. Ultimate Compound is a great restorer and paint leveller, but can leave micro-marring which a finer abrasive polish will clear up. It's also not meant to restore the oils in paint, the loss of which leads to oxidation. That's where a polish is more appropriate than a compound.

09-20-2011, 02:30 AM
These are the pads I have. Sufficient?


09-20-2011, 03:46 AM
Description looks fine -- haven't used them or read much about them, so I cannot speak to the particulars. Looking over the description, I'd suggest starting with the Ultimate Compound and the Step 2 pad, and only using the Step 1 if the paint doesn't respond. The Step 3 pad is what you'd use for applying a finishing polish.

However, they're four-inch pads, and the PC usually is meant for six- or seven-inch pads. Make sure you have the appropriate counterweight for your pad size

09-24-2011, 06:54 AM
OK, started working on a small corner of the hood tonight. (Fixing my first attempt at wet sanding before I had done research, doh!). I had previously wet sanded 600, 1500, then 2000 grits on about a 1' x 1' section of my hood. Later on I read not to use anything below 2500 for wet sanding. It had some deep scratches to fix.

Here is what I started with tonight, this is the mess from my previous attempt.


This is my result after tonight on my first ever attempt using the new Porter-Cable 7424XP. I started by wet sanding the area with 2500grit to get the scratches out. I then went over with 3000grit after the scratches were pretty much gone. After that, pulled out the PC and I used the roughest cut pad with ultimate compound and did two passes. It was looking good. I then went over it with the medium pad and Meguiar's M20532 Ultra Finishing Polish. It was looking REAL good after this. For the last step I used the softest pad and Meguiar's M-0716 Mirror Glaze Professional Show Car Glaze. I messed up with this stuff. It was a lot thinner than the other stuff and I guess it dried up quicker and I think I ended up burning it. The shine wasn't as good after this and you could see the lines from my passes. :(


I think I did OK for my first time. It was definitely a learning experience for sure.

09-24-2011, 09:55 AM
Show Car Glaze, aka M7, is not meant for machine application. It's a hand polish, and a pure polish -- it has no abrasives, only restorative oils. As a result, you can apply it with the orbital buffer but you want to use a finishing pad (you got that part), a slow speed setting -- 3 should do -- and relatively gentle pressure. You're not working the paint with M7, you're just trying to press the oils into it. Actually, the former product guru at Meguiar's Online used to describe the proper technique as being the same as rubbing in skin moisturizer.

M7 doesn't dry -- if you managed to dry it, you really did work it to death. There are two schools of thought on how to remove it. Some advise doing one panel at a time with M7, wiping each panel clean as you go. Others advise, for more experienced users, applying M7 to the whole car then removing it in multiple passes -- go over the car two or three times, rather than trying to remove all of the residue from a given panel in one go. The aforementioned guru, Mike Philips, actually recommends both methods depending upon your experience with M7.

Side note: unless you're trying to tell us what size of bottle you purchased, the last two digits aren't necessary in product descriptions. M205 (read as Mirror Glaze number 205 for those not familiar with Meguiar's) identifies the product. The 16 or 32 identify the number of ounces in the bottle.

09-24-2011, 10:02 PM
Thanks for the info! I went over the area again by hand with the mirror glaze and it came out nice.

I worked on another small section today. Just for reference, this is what my hood normally looks like right after a wash.




And here is what I accomplished today. Same process as yesterday, except did the glaze by hand.



09-24-2011, 11:43 PM
And there's Mirror finish, very nice. Once you do the work the first time, it's a lot easier to maintain. You'll probably never need to use the compound again if you regularly (say every six months to a year, depending upon wear) use the M205.

Just make sure to top the M7 with a good sealant. As a pure polish, it comes off very easily and quickly, particularly in the rain.