View Full Version : Whiteline swaybar install guide

05-03-2011, 02:33 AM
Hi I had nothing better to do so I decided to make a thread about how to change your stock swaybar to a Whiteline adjustable swaybar,
The installation is pretty much straight forward and self explanatory, so I'm not really sure if a how to guide is really needed but I'm making one anyway.

Please note that I do not take any responsibility for any injuries, death or damage to vehicles, property, etc. caused by following this guide.
Remember that if you do choose to install an aftermarket swaybar on your car you should be aware that this is may not be a roadlegal part where you live, and it will affect the handling of your car.
Performing this instalation acording to this guide requires some mechanical knowledge, if you dont feel confident about carrying out this job, have a profesional take care of it.
This guide is not necessarily the correct way to install a swaybar, this guide only shows how I did and how I belive that it should be done..

This job requires very little tools, a regular mm socket set and an allen key set should be enough, and some kind of a small hose and a container for bleeding the brakes, and a friend to help you out when instaling the swaybar and bleeding the brakes.

First start of by jacking up the rear of the car and place it on axle stands, place the axle stands securely on the jackspots, I had to place my axle stands a little different because my jack wouldn't lift the car high enough.
you should be able to find information about this in the owners manual for the car.

Then start by removing the wheels on both sides

You should now be able to see the swaybar linkage arms like in the picture.

Loosen the 14mm that are connecting the swaybar to the link by using a 14mm spanner, an allen key and some rust oil.

Now you will need to remove at least one shock absorber I removed both since i was going to give them a new layer of paint.
Anyways If you only remove one I think you should remove the right one.
To be able to get the shock absorber out you will need to remove the brake hose from the caliper and remove the clip holding the brake line/ hose on the backside if the shock absorber and pull the hose trough untill it's free from the shock absorber.
Now either put on a hose clamp or put the hose back on to the caliper to prevent all your brake fluid from leaking out. be aware of the two copper gaskets.
Also brake fluid will damage the paint, so be carefull not to spill any on to your car, if you do, wash away the brake fluid with water.

Now you should loosen the two 19mm bolts holding the the sock absorber to the hub

Now the shock absorber should be free except from the 3 bolts on top, now you need to remove the plastic trim/ cover right above the suspension tower.

You should now be able to see the three 12mm nuts holding the shock absorbers loosen these using a 12mm socket, when removing the third grab the shock absorber with one hand som when it comes loose it won't fall down and stretching or posibly breaking any brake lines or abs leads.

Now the only thing that is left to do before removing the swaybar is to loose the two brackets holding the bar to the chasis.


With some fiddling you should be able to pull out the swaybar from the right hand side.

Here are som photos of the stock vs Whiteline swaybar:





Stock swaybar measures 17mm vs 20mm on the Whiteline.


When installiing the new swaybar you should follow the Whiteline instruction manual that comes with the kit.

Make sure that when you put the sawaybar in place you are placing it the right way, it saves you a lot of time trust me I know :laugh:
The help of a friend would be very usefull doing this.
When the swaybar is in place grease up the new bushes using the grease provided with the kit.
the brackets should not be tightened before the vehicle is standing on the wheels,

Now the refitting is pretty much self explanatory.
Fit the shock absorber(s), brake line and the swaybar links.
Again be aware of the two copper gaskets on the caliper
And remember to bleed the brakes and check the brake fluid level.

Torque specs:
3x12mm nuts 39nm, 29ft-lbf
2x19mm bolts and nuts 255nm, 188ft-lbf
14mm brake caliper hose bolt 30nm, 22ft-lbf
2x14mm swaybar nut 64nm, 47ft-lbf
4x12mm swaybar bracket bolts 19mm, 14ft-lbf

When tightening the bracket bolts the car should be standing on all wheels, I used a ramp to gain access to all four bolts.

Here is the picture of the adjustment holes: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g427/fdfx3/Celica%20mechanical/100_0170.jpg

If you bought the adjustable version remember that Whiteline and I advises you to start with a softer setting rather than harder.
And drive carefully while accustom yourself to changed vehicle behavior.

Again if you dont feel confident about carying out this job, then dont do it.
And I do not take any responsibility for any injuries, death or damage to vehicles, property etc. caused by following this guide, you are doing this at your own risk.
(Sorry about all this disclaimer stuff, but you never know what kind of people who will read/ attempt this)

I hope anyone finds this thread usefull.:)

As far as testing goes I have not yet tested it, I will update or post a review when I have tested it properly.