View Full Version : Sea Foam?

04-22-2011, 08:00 PM
I was curious if anyone has used Sea Foam to clean out the gunk inside your engine and injectors?

It seems legit, however I am skeptical as to wether it actually works?

04-22-2011, 08:04 PM

I used it in my '89 I had years ago. Depending on where you do it, you may piss off a lot of people or have the fire department/police show up.

You may burn up your cat doing it though with the amount of carbon/crap getting blown out.

04-22-2011, 08:47 PM
Did it to my 91 GTS recently. Blew a leak in a gunked up hole in my oil pan. Worth it IMHO.

04-22-2011, 10:19 PM
It will get rid of carbon deposits. If your car is old, that may be a bad thing -- or at least, a surprise. Small leaks can be plugged by a deposit forming around the hole, usually where a seal or gasket has slightly deteriorated. Removing that deposit means there's now lots of room for oil to flow.

The general consensus is that you're safer to put it into the gas tank, and feed it into the injection system via a vacuum hose, than you are running it into the crankcase. It's also a good idea to change your spark plugs afterwards.

That said, I've done it on a car with 250,000 kms and it definitely improved engine performance, primarily in how smoothly it revved. It also turned a slow drip from my oil pump seal into a fast leak, which meant some significant work had to be done shortly after. Of course, it didn't cause the leak, just revealed its extent.

04-23-2011, 01:18 AM
Seafoam cannot kill a cat. Not nearly hot enough.

I use a whole can at once any time I use it, which is a LOT, since I sell the stuff and show people how to use it, both for smog and performance purposes. It gives such a performance boost in old motors because of all the crap caked on the valves. It's more like a valve job in a can than a tune up in a can.

04-23-2011, 01:47 AM
I am doing it on my 91 GT right now. I figure it will increase the leak at my oil pump, but I needed to clear out the soot built up in my cylinders. The cars I have used it on has helped each of them.

04-23-2011, 01:58 AM
I agree, used correctly can make a difference and at the same time can reveal a major repair thats needed. Im currently installing a new intake manifold gasket on my sisters blazer thanks in part to Seafoam. Her truck ran great for 3 days after a tune up including Seafoam, then BLAMO, intake leak. Still recommend doing it unless you suspect your engine may already be on its last legs.

04-25-2011, 07:45 PM
In doing some research on how to use Sea Foam, it would seem that a complete treatment involves (3) separate parts;

• Part 1: Fuel Injectors
• Part 2: Crank Case
• Part 3: Cylinders

Supplies and Tools:
Before attempting to treat your engine with Sea Foam, gather up the following tools and supplies:

• (2) 16 ounce cans of Sea Foam
• (1) flat head screwdriver
• (1) pair of needle nose pliers
• (1) funnel
• (1) measuring cup

Part One: Fuel Injectors
Sea Foam can be used to clean dirty fuel injectors. To clean dirty fuel injectors, use the following procedure.

1. Fill up your gas tank.

2. Pour the entire contents of (1) 16 oz can of Sea Foam into your gas tank. (Shake the can before opening, and use a funnel to avoid spillage.)

3. Take your car for a ride so that the Sea Foam can mix with the gas in your gas tank.

Part Two: Crank Case
Sea Foam can also be used to clean deposits in your crank case. To clean your crank case, use the following procedure.

1. Using a measuring cup, determine how much Sea Foam you will need to use. The correct measurement for Sea Foam is 1.5 ounces/per quarts of oil in your crankcase. Reading the specs for my 2000 Celica GT, the 1.8 ltr. 1ZZ-FE engine uses 3.9 qts, so I need to add 5.85 oz to the crankcase.

(1.5) X (3.9) = 5.85 ounces

2. Remove the oil filler cap, and using a funnel to avoid spillage, pour the Sea Foam directly into your engine.

3. Run the Sea Foam in your oil for NO MORE THAN 250 miles, then change your oil, and replace your oil filter. Do not run this oil for more than 250 miles as your oil filter is going to have quite the time on its hands, and the oil won't be in the best of shape afterwards.

So, cleaning the injectors and crankcase seems relativley simple, however cleaning the cylinders seems to be fairly complicated. Per the directions, I will need to introduce Sea Foam into the top end of the engine using a vacuum line?

I believe the vacuum line from the brake booster was recommended, but I am not 100% sure where that is on my car. I can identify the brake booster on the firewall on the drivers side, but I am not sure which vacuum line I need to disconnect?

04-25-2011, 07:57 PM
On my celica I used the vaccuum hose going to my cruise control.

I also used one can and divided it into 3 parts.

04-25-2011, 07:59 PM
We usually advise against putting it in the crankcase for the reasons mentioned above.

Half a can through a vacuum hose, half a can in the fuel tank.

04-25-2011, 08:57 PM
There are better things to use in the tank than seafoam, pure techron is much stronger.

If it's a really dirty oil system I will use a flush, and change to maxlife for the seal conditioners, plus a bottle of cd2 detergent, and tell them to change it @ 2k miles to whatever they want.

I HAVE tried other products fed directly into the intake. Seafoam is hard to beat there.

04-26-2011, 04:40 AM

For the cylinders, I used the port pictured above -- the one with the single line running to it. Pulled the hose off there, and attached a clear rubber tube to the barb. Ran the other end into the can. You can easily track the noise to ensure you don't drown the engine, but I found the clear plastic let me maintain a fairly even mix of air and Seafoam.

Be warned, this will produce a lot of smoke, so do it outside and preferably on a windy day, away from people/houses.

04-28-2011, 10:21 PM
Thank you all very much, I appriciate the input!!

Hipster Lawrence
04-28-2011, 11:15 PM
Seafoam is good but nowhere near as good as a top engine cleaner from the gm or chrysler dealer. It does work for cleaning light deposits on valves. but so does water.

For the crankcasse use a quart of transmission fluid in place of a quart of oil. Run the car for 30 minutes and change the oil.

04-30-2011, 01:22 AM
I seafoamed my wifes civic. Worked pretty good, blew out a ton of shit out the exhaust, improved power and mpg. I'd say do it at night that way the smoke won't be seen so easily, also as others have said avoid putting it in the oil.
I used a turkey baster, gave more control over letting it suck up through the can

04-30-2011, 12:58 PM
Seafoam is good but nowhere near as good as a top engine cleaner from the gm or chrysler dealer. It does work for cleaning light deposits on valves. but so does water.

I've tried all sorts of solvents, including my own mixtures, and seafoam works fine. Haven't seen better results from anything so far. So what are you basing this off of?

Hipster Lawrence
04-30-2011, 03:35 PM
Ive used GM and mopar top engine cleaner on engines with valves so carboned up they couldn't close all the way causing a misfire. It fixed the problem. I'm sure seafoam works. But sucking the whole through a vacuum hose in 5 seconds isn't going to do anything.

As for smoke coming out of the tailpipe, throw a can of seafoam in a campfire I bet you'll get just as much smoke. Does that mean it cleaned the logs in the fire?

04-30-2011, 04:14 PM
Does that mean it cleaned the logs in the fire?

Next time your have carbon deposits on your hardened camp fire logs, try a little seafoam and fuel ignition inside a pressurized combustion chamber. It will easily clean those logs. But most campfires are pressure free so your analogy is stupid.

I believe the right amount of seafoam on a fire will put it out.

04-30-2011, 06:45 PM
But sucking the whole through a vacuum hose in 5 seconds isn't going to do anything.

Just so you know, carbon deposits can never keep a valve from closing, it's very soft, and accumulates very slowly, it will actually help it seal to a certain extent. Enough of it however, impedes airflow, which is why you get such a boost in power and usually a smoother idle.

Judging by your statements, you've never used seafoam, or even been there when someone else did it. So please don't bag on something you aren't familiar with, gives people the wrong idea about things.

04-30-2011, 08:19 PM
Both products main chemical is some form of naptha. The GM cleaner adds a surfactant (Butoxyethanol) and a soluble vegetable oil as a lubricant. Seafoam uses isopropyl alcohol and carbon dioxide as its secondary agents. Seafoam actually contains a higher percentage of flammable solvents than the GM stuff. Again the main active ingredient is just a hydrocarbon solvent to wash the buildup into the combustion chamber so it can be burned off.

A properly set up water injection system will do much of the same effect only using steam power (for us tree huggers, we like natural remedies!).

04-30-2011, 08:40 PM

05-16-2011, 04:07 AM
good info here

05-21-2011, 07:44 AM
Spark plugs after Seafoaming through the throttle body vacuum line -- they look distinctly more burned/ashier than the last set I pulled, which while no guarantee does suggest the damage they can do and why it's a good idea to change your plugs afterwards.
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/5/0/7/spark_plugs_post-seafoam.jpg (http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=19562)

05-21-2011, 08:00 AM
They look good and deposit/blister free to me? What's wrong with them?

05-21-2011, 08:09 AM
Those tips are supposed to be white, they range from brown to black -- there are deposits, not heavy but present. As I said, little ashy.