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Blackcloud
04-19-2011, 03:25 AM
Figured id ask for opinions here too.

Im getting mixed opinions on my head studs. I torqued them in the recommended 3 step process. 40, 80 and a final 128ft lbs. some people are saying i need to run a heat cycle then re-torque, others are saying ill be good to go with out any re-torquing, and others still saying something the import guys are doing is torquing them, letting them sit for a few days, then breaking free one nut at a time and torquing it back down to the final torque.

any opinions on this?

Basically i dont want to have to re-torque them after a heat cycle, it takes about 20hrs of tear down to get back to the point where i can do that.

rizin
04-19-2011, 04:57 AM
Here is a thread I started a while back about this. http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?45202-ARP-head-stud-torque&highlight=arp+head+stud+torque Looks that using the head stud stretch would be the way to go on your engine.

Facime
04-19-2011, 06:19 AM
It really depends on the hardware and the gaskets used. If its TTY hardware then I recommend no retourque no matter the gasket. If you are using ARP hardware, have chased your threads in the block and are using motor oil or another lubricant on the threads, then a retorque isnt needed but COULD be done without drawback if the headgasket manufacturer recommends it.

But then again I dont know my diesels at all. it might be completely different.

4thgenceli
04-19-2011, 06:26 AM
With the ARP studs and OEM toyota mls gasket it was recommended (both by ARP and the dealer) to torque in sequence graduated, drive for a bit (~500 miles) and then torque in sequence again graduated to verify.

If OEM toyota head screws, I wouldn't bother re-torquing past the original install due to their stretchiness factor.


BUT you are a diesel loving faggot, so everything I said means nothing.




Oh... and I killed a duramax today. Dumbass didn't know how to shift his truck and i swear he had his exhaust brake on trying to accelerate....

Luni
04-19-2011, 06:34 AM
Its said that you are supposed to retorque arp head studs after 1000 miles or whatever. Ive heard plenty of MR2 guys say theyve been fine not retorquing.

The key is to do it right the first time. You should be able to totally screw the head stud into the block by hand all the way. If you cant, or it fights you, you need to chase your threads with the proper tap and then reinsert the stud. And using moly lube during the torquing process is the way to go. If you do it right the first time, with moly lube, the way its supposed to be done, you shouldnt have to retorque them.

Blackcloud
04-20-2011, 01:21 AM
Oh... and I killed a duramax today. Dumbass didn't know how to shift his truck and i swear he had his exhaust brake on trying to accelerate....

wait, so you beat a 8000lb truck that if was shifting slow it obviously had a manual and was ment for towing and your going to brag about it? lol

Car_Barn_Bandit
04-20-2011, 01:22 AM
wait, so you beat a 8000lb truck that if was shifting slow it obviously had a manual and was ment for towing and your going to brag about it? lol

Tim was on foot...

Blackcloud
04-20-2011, 02:16 AM
Its said that you are supposed to retorque arp head studs after 1000 miles or whatever. Ive heard plenty of MR2 guys say theyve been fine not retorquing.

The key is to do it right the first time. You should be able to totally screw the head stud into the block by hand all the way. If you cant, or it fights you, you need to chase your threads with the proper tap and then reinsert the stud. And using moly lube during the torquing process is the way to go. If you do it right the first time, with moly lube, the way its supposed to be done, you shouldnt have to retorque them.

I was able to hand tighten all 44 studs no problem.. i gave them a quick tap with the allen wrench to make sure they were tight at the end. also used the ARP lube that came with the studs on all the threads, top and bottom of the washer and nuts.

ChrisD
04-20-2011, 05:48 AM
I have ARP's. I torqued them similar to you, 3 steps, used the arp lube, etc. I pulled the valve cover after the first heat cycle to retorque, and found that they were all still 100% to spec. So I checked again after a few thousand k's. Still to spec.

So that's my experience. I've heard a lot of people say you should retorque, but I definitely didn't need to.

MrWOT
04-20-2011, 06:21 AM
Break loose one at a time and retorque in sequence after about 8hrs runtime.

Blackcloud
04-20-2011, 10:36 PM
I have ARP's. I torqued them similar to you, 3 steps, used the arp lube, etc. I pulled the valve cover after the first heat cycle to retorque, and found that they were all still 100% to spec. So I checked again after a few thousand k's. Still to spec.

So that's my experience. I've heard a lot of people say you should retorque, but I definitely didn't need to.

I dont think im going to.. if i have to break into the motor to reqortue them i might as well put a new gasket in.. lol.

so ill rock it.. if it blows ill just replace the gasket

Luni
04-20-2011, 10:44 PM
So Jason what youre saying is you cant just pull a valve cover and retorque? Usually thats all thats needed. Its not that easy on yours?

Blackcloud
04-21-2011, 01:24 AM
correct. it took me several days and 2 guys working on it to get it deep enough just to get the heads off.

see in this pic how you can just barely see part of the UPPER valve cover gasket. not even the lower valve cover gasket.
http://image.dieselpowermag.com/f/9107318+w750+st0/0707dp_02_z+2006_chevy_silverado_3500_duramax+engi ne.jpg

there is so much shit to remove its not even funny.

I had to take it down to this level just to get them off
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0484.jpg

rizin
04-21-2011, 01:51 AM
I hope you don't have to do anything like this again anytime soon.

Blackcloud
04-21-2011, 10:22 PM
me too.. i was told that GM quotes this as a 32-35hr job. ugh

ChrisD
04-22-2011, 04:26 AM
Wow, and we complain about how much work our stuff is. Yikes.

Blackcloud
04-23-2011, 04:51 AM
got some parts in the mail today

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0686.jpg


got the valve covers on and working on figuring this mess out

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0749.jpg

where i left off at tonight
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0752.jpg

Blackcloud
04-23-2011, 06:38 PM
hosed again.. was getting my injectors ready to go back in.

the damn coppers i was sent were for a different motor. FML

Facime
04-23-2011, 07:01 PM
I definately dont envy you with that one. I suppose its the price you pay when you play, but man, what a nightmare. Makes my 460 rebuild look like a snap together model by comparison.

BabyBear
04-23-2011, 10:15 PM
Aren't diesels supposed to be simple?

Blackcloud
04-25-2011, 01:19 AM
it is pretty simple in reality. the wiring mess is all the control for the injectors

drdevil
04-25-2011, 03:49 AM
I definately dont envy you with that one. I suppose its the price you pay when you play, but man, what a nightmare. Makes my 460 rebuild look like a snap together model by comparison.

Yup! I did a '69 Lincoln rebuild, and now think the same!

Blackcloud
04-26-2011, 05:28 AM
why did nobody tell me i should adjust the valves.. ugh.. spent all day today tearing shit back apart.

I fail as a mechanic. lol

Blackcloud
04-27-2011, 02:56 PM
oh snap.. decided to install a race valve while i was in there..

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/photo_145777.jpg

Luni
04-27-2011, 03:39 PM
You DO fail as a mechanic. LOL.

And what the hell is that race valve thing?

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 12:06 AM
diesel fuel rails run upwards of 30,000psi. this race valve replaces a spring loaded pressure relief valve that likes to blow off pressure , bleeding your rails dry, when you build bigger tunes +200hp you require more fuel and pressure. I also had to add a 160gph lift pump to supply the CP3 pump.

but i can take the stock 300hp to right around 600 with fuel alone. so a +300hp gain with a tune is nothing to complain about

rizin
04-28-2011, 04:38 AM
I hate my vp it would be nice to supply enough fuel on a tune to make that type of power.

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 03:18 PM
if i wanted to go real crazy i could add a 2nd cp3 pump. but they like $3000 :(

then a new turbo is $3000

then new injectors are $3000

then id have to get teh heads ported which is like $4000

stupid expensive crap anyways

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 10:25 PM
speaking of crazy.. got our cummins reving over 5k rpms today. sounded insane in person

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF7G0L_OVBE&feature

lalojamesliz
04-28-2011, 10:42 PM
Damn that's a lot of power!

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 11:15 PM
not even sprayin it yet. talking to him last night.. he wants to start off small with like a 100hp shot.

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 11:16 PM
yay.. got the rest of my steering parts today

My cost on this stuff is about $2500

should never break the front end now
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/photo_833129.jpg

Blackcloud
04-28-2011, 11:24 PM
I took this vid of the truck last night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYd6rpGb57E

Blackcloud
05-01-2011, 02:50 PM
good progress yesterday

I still cant believe the issues my iphone has taking pics indoors. takes decent pics in better lighting

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0798.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0802.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0803.jpg


the trans cooler lines from Alligator, very very easy to install when the front is ripped out, this will be the 4th set of tranny cooler lines this truck has had in it. the factory lines are a cheesy crimp connection which leak like a bitch
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0800.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/9/img_0801.jpg

CollapsedNut
05-01-2011, 04:34 PM
You realize that tranny cooler hose is nothing more than a hydraulic hose right? Ends are crimped on, looks like a #8 JIC. Hope you didnt spend too much money on those, your local Napa can make them.

Blackcloud
05-01-2011, 05:10 PM
Ya I know that. I think the hard part is getting the correct fittings. They list for $250 for the set. I was given them for free by one of our dealers