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FluffyNutts
02-16-2011, 08:55 PM
I am fixing to buy alpine type r 1243d 12's 4ohm. And I was looking for an amp. I was looking at a kicker 750.1. Now which amp should I get? I have around 250 dollars to spend on one. I believe I can drop both those subs and wire them to two ohms, please correct me if I am wrong. The subs are 600rms.

GT4RC
02-16-2011, 09:17 PM
if you buy a single channel amp, those subs will run in 1 or 4 ohm setup, if you buy a 2 channel amp they can drop to 2 ohm.
I would change your plan to dual 2 ohm voice coil and buy a monoblock amp.

Edit: Unless you find a decent monoblock that runs 1ohm stable.

FluffyNutts
02-16-2011, 09:59 PM
so buy the type r's in 2 ohm and get a single channel amp what, 1000.1, and run them to 2 ohms?

GT4RC
02-16-2011, 10:39 PM
yup, in series-parallel, should be able to google some wiring diagrams

Edit: My type R's came with wiring diagrams, which were also available from the alpine site.

alltracNyx
02-17-2011, 12:33 AM
Finding a decent monoblock that is 1 ohm stable can get pricey. Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html) has some pretty good wiring diagrams for most common set ups.

If you get the type R 1223Ds, then this (http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg) would essentially be how to wire it up. And then you would go with something like the MRP-M1000 which puts out about 1000 RMS at 2 ohms. To each their own :)

So do you have your heart set on Alpine, and two subs pushing that much power? My preference leans heavily to sound quality over lots of bass. I run one 12" DVC (4 ohm) sub to a monoblock and it pushes about 600 W RMS, which is more than enough in the alltrac. But I'm also running a 400-500 W RMS 4 channel to my interior speakers. I feel like your speakers would just get drowned out by those subs, unless you're already running something for the interior speakers.

FluffyNutts
02-17-2011, 01:23 AM
I am not picky about the subs, I just think 230 for two of them is an okay deal for the budget I am on. I was going to get two Re Audio Sxx d2 but they require a big box which would take the whole celica up.

alltracNyx
02-17-2011, 02:59 AM
My point was just that. I didn't want to give up all my hatch space and one 12" in a sealed box pushing about 600 W RMS is more than enough. Two subs aren't necessary for me. Too much bass all the time becomes annoying, so chances are you won't even be pushing the subs that hard.

GT4RC
02-18-2011, 11:31 AM
He's right, our cars, being a hatchback, sound AMAZING with little extra work.

On that note, use some of the extra money from less sub on head unit(higher voltage pre-out the better), odyssey/optima battery, and an alternator upgrade. do your "big 3" grounds in the engine bay, and run power and remote on the opposite side as signal. Doing all of these should remove a ton of noise, with fairly low cost. And don't buy a capacitor until you've done the other 3 power mods as all it does is add more total draw. If you get some rattles check out www.b-quiet.com for unbranded(cheaper) but identical to dynamat sound deadening.

Thats the majority of the basics I think :)

Luni
02-18-2011, 01:03 PM
I have 1 JL audio 250/1 (250 watts RMS) paired to a dual 4 ohm voice coil Type R 10 inch sub in a box I built especially for the sub.

That single 10 is all I need. It hits hard as fack when I want it to, plays VERY musical, and picks up everything I need it to. I wouldnt change it.

2 12s in a little hatchback celica would almost be overkill. Now, the rules change a bit if youre a coupe. But if youre a hatchback, Id say 2 12s back there with 1000w rms (which your alternator will NEVER be able to keep up with by the way), will rattle your teeth out of your head.

Oh and GT4RC, AlltracNyx is a chick. :) HER name is Stacy.

alltracNyx
02-18-2011, 08:40 PM
Oh and GT4RC, AlltracNyx is a chick. :) HER name is Stacy.

I was just gonna leave that alone. I understand that most people don't realize I'm a girl, especially since the only other girls active on ctech mainly stick to OT.

Besides, how much funnier would it be at the Dragon when you meet people you don't know, and they're expecting you to be a guy, and in walks a 5'2" blond chick ;)

Luni
02-18-2011, 08:47 PM
With BOOBS!

alltracNyx
02-19-2011, 12:19 AM
Thanks for sharing.

Luni
02-19-2011, 06:43 AM
LOL. You love me Stacy.

Hey Fluffynuts. So what choo gonna do?

187flatliner
02-19-2011, 07:01 AM
my only question is this...... i haven't done the big three update yet......can i just back up my original wires or do i have to take them outta the equation? (cut them and run new wires)

i will be running 4 gauge wiring.

one to alt
one to ground
one to where?

GT4RC
02-19-2011, 12:25 PM
Haha, oops, good to know.

alltracNyx
02-21-2011, 01:43 AM
LOL. You love me Stacy.

Sometimes.


Haha, oops, good to know.

Really, it makes no difference to me.


my only question is this...... i haven't done the big three update yet......can i just back up my original wires or do i have to take them outta the equation? (cut them and run new wires)

i will be running 4 gauge wiring.

one to alt
one to ground
one to where?

Way to threadjack Flatliner ;) The point is to run new wires to replace the old ones, not in addition to the existing wires.

1) alternator positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis

GT4RC
02-21-2011, 09:57 AM
Really, it makes no difference to me.


Well it might matter to me...... you single?



Haha, I kid, I kid...:banana:

187flatliner
02-21-2011, 04:30 PM
i was kinda on topic.......love you too. lol

alltracNyx
02-21-2011, 07:01 PM
Well it might matter to me...... you single?



Haha, I kid, I kid...:banana:

Funny enough, my bf is the person who made me join this forum and is also a member, so no, not single, LOL.

FluffyNutts
02-22-2011, 12:18 AM
I ended up sticking with the type r 4ohms... I just purchased this amp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RUG7MG/ref=ox_ya_os_product

the specs on it are..
Class D Monoblock Power Amplifier - Mono Block Sub woofer Amplifier - PWM ( Pulse-Width-Modulation ) System - Variable Subsonic Filter ( 15Hz - 55Hz 24dB / Octave) - Advanced Protection Circuitry
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 1 x 900 W - Frequency Response 15 Hz-150 Hz (3dB) - Glass Epoxy PCB - Phase Control 0-180 Degree - S/N Ratio: >90dB
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms: 1 x 1200 W - Output Power @ 14.4v DC, 50Hz - Silver RCA Inputs - Remote Bass Boost - Dimensions:10.24''W x 2.21''H x 13.78''L
RMS Power @ 1.3 Ohms: 1 x 1600 W - 1 Ohm Stable - Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connection - Input Impedance: 10K Ohms
Maximum Power Output 3100W Mono - MOSFET Power Supply - Thermal / Overload / Short Circuit Protection - Soft Turn On/ Off

Now if I am reading this right, I have two options for wiring, 4 ohms, which would put 450 RMS to each speaker, OR 1 ohm which would put roughly 800RMS a piece? Is this correct? I wonder because the subs RMS is 600 and if I wire it to 1 ohm and 800 rms is going to it, is that going to kill the speakers?

alltracNyx
02-23-2011, 05:05 AM
Based on the specs provided, you are correct. Speakers tend to be able to handle more power than their ratings. If you run them at a max volume and power that exceeds their ratings for an extended period of time, you will probably shorten the life of the speakers. Wire it up at 4 ohms and see how it sounds. If you like it, leave it. If you want more, then it wouldn't be hard to change how the speakers are wired to run them at 1 ohm. I still think the bass from them at 4 ohms at 900 W RMS will be more than enough, but that's just me.

Luni
02-23-2011, 06:47 AM
Dude 2 Type R 12s is soooo gonna be overkill...

GT4RC
02-23-2011, 08:32 AM
I had 2 12" jl 12w0's on 700 watts and it was moving the air in and out of my lungs for me.

If you just want some good solid bass 1 is enough. if you want to do some spl competitions get 2. Maybe try to find a single 15, as it would at least net you lower frequencies.