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View Full Version : Painted the Celica. Pics included



Hookecho
02-15-2011, 11:54 PM
Well, this is my first time painting a car. It took me about 16 hours in the past 3 days.

I had sanded and primed the car about 4 years ago and never painted it. So I had to start by removing the old primer.

First I removed all of the trim pieces and lights. After wet sanding the old primer off I did a little bondo work and then washed the car. I let the car dry and then sprayed it with Duplicolor primer. Later I sanded the primer and wiped the car down.

Monday I taped the car up. After lunch it had warmed up to almost 70 degrees so I walked down to the shop and sprayed the base coat. I used Duplicolor Cherry Red.

I got up this morning and decided to install the trim pieces and wash the car. I have to wait 7-10 days before I can wet sand and clear coat the paint.

I'll likely spray the clear on in a couple weeks or so. In the meantime I wanted to drive the car some. So I'll have to spend a couple hours taping the car up again.

Can't wait to bring out the mirror finish. Right now it has that matte finish to it.

Here are the before pics of the old primered look

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/car1.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/car4.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/car5.jpg


This is after the I painted it.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/car.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/driver_side.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/rear_2_936953.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/rear.jpg

alltracNyx
02-15-2011, 11:57 PM
Looks good!

Flux
02-16-2011, 12:38 AM
Nice,
Cant wait to see it with the clear.

FluffyNutts
02-16-2011, 12:42 AM
Looks good man, just be careful with that hood scoop, I had that one on my hood and it melted a few days after the heat from the manifold.

Hookecho
02-16-2011, 12:54 AM
I've been running that scoop for several months with no problem. If it gets hot enough to melt that I'll have bigger issues to worry about. Do you have a heat shield on your manifold?

Nitro_Alltrac
02-16-2011, 01:42 AM
Is that a base-clear system? Most of them don't require you to wait that long to clear coat.

Coming along good though. I did mine myself about a year and half ago. I've been happy with it and it made a world of difference in the car.

Hookecho
02-16-2011, 01:45 AM
Yeah, the instructions on the can said to wait 7 days before sanding the paint.

Nitro_Alltrac
02-16-2011, 01:59 AM
I read your other post after posting. After you sand it and then lay the clear on, it should even out. Are you using a HVLP gun? That's what I use to do mine. I was really happy with it.

I think someone mentioned it in the other post, be SUPER careful when you're putting the clear on. Like they said there is a VERY fine line between laying on enough and getting just a little too much and getting some runs. I can speak from experience on this. If that happens, let it cure and then carefully sand them out and buff. Some say you can take a razor blade and shave the runs down first and then sand. That works as well.

The car looks like it is coming along good. Once you get the paint done, you'll have a great sense of satisfaction that you did it yourself. Not a lot of people will take that plunge. It's a lot of work, but it's worth it.

Hookecho
02-16-2011, 02:09 AM
Yeah, I'm going to be careful with the clear coat. I do have an HVLP to spray it with. I won't be able to do it next week. I have to pull that motor for Murg. Then hopefully the following week I can take it to him.

Does your Trac have the rear spoiler on it.?. I can't tell from the picture in your sig.

Waffles!
02-16-2011, 03:40 AM
Looks good!

joe's gt
02-16-2011, 03:40 AM
My post disappeared?

Galcobar
02-16-2011, 08:35 AM
A suggestion made for learning to use a rotary buffer comes to mind which might be applicable in this situation -- go to the junkyard and buy a door. Use it, rather than your car, to figure out the right technique to apply the clear given your particular setup and materials. Better to practice on something you don't value and won't be worried about screwing up.

Hookecho
02-16-2011, 12:10 PM
Good idea. I'll actually have a junker car in my shop next week that I can do that too.

Nitro_Alltrac
02-16-2011, 02:49 PM
No currently my car doesn't have the spoiler. A PO had pulled that, the antenna and the wiper off. I've put the wiper back on and the antenna in the rear window works OK. I'm thinking about putting the spoiler back on the car. There'a GT-S in the p n p here that has the spoiler. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to do it. I've had the car almost 5 years and it's always been bare assed. I've got a GT lip spoiler I got from CMS-GT4 I thought about putting it on the car but I've looked at more cars since I bought it and don't think I'll go that route.

ChrisD
02-16-2011, 04:17 PM
Looks pretty good Bruce! I think once you get that clear on there it will definitely bring out the colour and a nice shine.

Hookecho
02-16-2011, 04:19 PM
I think it needs a spoiler. It just sets the car off. It doesn't look bad without.

darthripley
02-16-2011, 11:11 PM
I like the looks of the alltrac w/out the spoiler, makes the arse look even fatter ;)
Looks like a good start to the paint job hookecho.
You'll figure out what level of "wetness" you need to get the clear on w/out drips, but you will prolly get a few & follow the tips Mike gave b/c that works the best to get them gone.
You learn quickly when doing your own paint/body why top notch jobs are so expensive - the prep & sanding is so labor intensive to make the final paint turn out decently.
Keep up the good work!

temperacerguy
02-17-2011, 01:37 AM
The only recomendation I have to add to the list is to WAIT WAIT WAIT to sand the car after the clear is put on... Paint outgasses solvents for a long time, and the thicker the clear, the longer it takes to outgas and fully harden. SO... If you have a run, it's 2X the thickness of the paint you put on, it will take longer to harden. If you try and sand it too early, you will crack through the hardened outer layer into the gooey paint under, resulting in an area that needs to be spot fixed. I use the razorblade technique with runs... don't bring it down flush, bring it down close to the surface of the paint, and bend the razorblade if need be to follow the contour of the pannel. Scrape the blade over the run, don't try to cut it out. once you have it close to the surface, then switch to your sandpapers and compounds.

Hookecho
02-17-2011, 02:08 AM
Never mind