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moofmaw
01-30-2011, 10:38 PM
Hello everyone I am a total noob when it comes to car audio. I purchased a new headunit, 2 4" speakers, and 2 6.5" speakers. I was wondering how difficult is it to install everything yourself? I would rather not pay best buy an outrageous amount of money for something I could do myself. I am also hooking up my subs in the trunk. I am just not sure how to hook up the amplifier install kit I purchased as well. Any help or advice would be great! Even if you think I should find someone who knows what they are doing because I would rather not mess anything up. Thanks!

Grot
01-30-2011, 10:42 PM
Speakers are real easy, HU not as much. You have any electrical knowledge?

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 10:51 PM
My electrical knowledge is enought to hook up surround sound for a room. I was told that since my celica has an aftermarket headunit already in there that I should be able to just swap in the new one using the wiring harness from the old headunit? Would that be correct? One question I had about that is does it matter that my new headunit is more powerful than my old one? So would it still be alright to use the same wiring harness?

Luni
01-30-2011, 10:56 PM
If you have a plug and play style harness adapter, youll unplug that, and unwire it from your old HU and wire the new HU into the existing PnP harness.

For installing an amp, the basic rule of thumb is use a fused connector off the battery, for me, no less than 8 gauge wire (really depends on how many watts your system will be pulling), the shortest ground you can get away with using, and dont run you RCAs and power down the same side of the car. In fact, dont let the RCAs overlap, or come in contact with the power anywhere if you can get away with it. Ground too. Keep RCAs and power/ground away from each other and if you do it right, you wont get line noise. When youre grounding the amp, use a screwdriver, or a piece of sand paper, or something to buff the paint off of whatever youre grounding the amp to. Get the cleanest ground you can.

I find it easiest to run the remote on wire with the RCAs and I run them down the opposite side of the car I run the power on. I usually like to mount amps behind the rear seats on the seat cage back there, or if yours is small enough to not interfere with the seat, under the passenger side seat.

To be honest, Ive had tons of good luck using the "cheap" scorsche (maybe its scosche) amplifier installation kits you can find at walmart. I just wont run anything less than an 8 gauge wire. My celica has 2 amps. One is a 250w rms mono amp, and one is a 300w rms 4 channel for mids and highs). I run a 4 gauge wire to a distribution block in the back, and 8 gauge off the block to each amp. 8 gauge ground.

I have no line noise and my stuff sounds good. And Im just using a walmart amp install kit I didnt pay an arm and a leg for.

4thgenceli
01-30-2011, 10:57 PM
My electrical knowledge is enought to hook up surround sound for a room. I was told that since my celica has an aftermarket headunit already in there that I should be able to just swap in the new one using the wiring harness from the old headunit? Would that be correct? One question I had about that is does it matter that my new headunit is more powerful than my old one? So would it still be alright to use the same wiring harness?

That is partially correct. Since you have an aftermarket head unit there 'should' be a wiring harness adapter that was used to go from the stock Toyota harness to which ever aftermarket one you're using. Other people tend to hard wire directly into the wiring though which is a PITA to work with. Chances are you will NOT be able to use the same wiring harness on the new head unit. It may be in your best interest (and your car's electrical system) to take it to an audio shop and have them install. Most places would charge like $50 to do the install.

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 11:12 PM
If you have a plug and play style harness adapter, youll unplug that, and unwire it from your old HU and wire the new HU into the existing PnP harness.

For installing an amp, the basic rule of thumb is use a fused connector off the battery, for me, no less than 8 gauge wire (really depends on how many watts your system will be pulling), the shortest ground you can get away with using, and dont run you RCAs and power down the same side of the car. In fact, dont let the RCAs overlap, or come in contact with the power anywhere if you can get away with it. Ground too. Keep RCAs and power/ground away from each other and if you do it right, you wont get line noise. When youre grounding the amp, use a screwdriver, or a piece of sand paper, or something to buff the paint off of whatever youre grounding the amp to. Get the cleanest ground you can.

I find it easiest to run the remote on wire with the RCAs and I run them down the opposite side of the car I run the power on. I usually like to mount amps behind the rear seats on the seat cage back there, or if yours is small enough to not interfere with the seat, under the passenger side seat.

To be honest, Ive had tons of good luck using the "cheap" scorsche (maybe its scosche) amplifier installation kits you can find at walmart. I just wont run anything less than an 8 gauge wire. My celica has 2 amps. One is a 250w rms mono amp, and one is a 300w rms 4 channel for mids and highs). I run a 4 gauge wire to a distribution block in the back, and 8 gauge off the block to each amp. 8 gauge ground.

I have no line noise and my stuff sounds good. And Im just using a walmart amp install kit I didnt pay an arm and a leg for.

I have a kicker 8 gauge fused amplifier install kit my largest concern is the running of the wires and grounding I just don't want to open up a can of worms that I will not be able to handle. I think I am going to try and install everything tomorrow, and if I run into any problems I will just get back on here and see if anyone has any insight as to what my problem may be. As for mounting my amplifier I have it mounting on the back of my box that I designed to fit in the back of the celica without moving. (I had it in my old celica that was totalled, rolled it a few times and the box never moved :) )

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 11:15 PM
That is partially correct. Since you have an aftermarket head unit there 'should' be a wiring harness adapter that was used to go from the stock Toyota harness to which ever aftermarket one you're using. Other people tend to hard wire directly into the wiring though which is a PITA to work with. Chances are you will NOT be able to use the same wiring harness on the new head unit. It may be in your best interest (and your car's electrical system) to take it to an audio shop and have them install. Most places would charge like $50 to do the install.

I am also going to call a local place around here to see what they would charge also. I think the main reason why I wanted to try and do it myself was because Best Buy wanted to charge me an arm, a leg, and my left testicle to install it. I also want to make sure that I do not need to get a different wiring harness. I am really excited to hear these new speakers it will definately be a great upgrade!

Luni
01-30-2011, 11:20 PM
As a general rule of thumb I really dislike mounting amps on the back of subwoofers. You wouldnt think so, but over time exposure to the resonance of the box will slowly rattle your amp apart and cause issues.

If youre going to mount it to the back of the box, you should use wooden 1 inch spacers with rubber between the wood and the amp to dampen it. Maybe this is me being "overkill" or "paranoid" but I dont do amps direct to boxes. Many other professional installers wont either.

Other than that, it really isnt that hard to run a power wire down one side and a set of RCAs down the other. Dont halfass it. Take shit apart. It isnt that hard to do right, if you dont get in the "oh this is too much" mentality. Take your time, do it right, run your wires clean, do what I said, and youll be fine.

Post what kind of celica you got and you might get advice on where to bring the power wire in through the firewall.

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-30-2011, 11:27 PM
You need a harness adapter for the head unit. Best Buy has an adapter for early 90's Toyotas that will work. You wire the head unit harness to the harness adapter. This is your cable that connects the head unit to the car.

You will need to run RCA's for the amplifiers. That will require removing parts of the interior. For the head unit, you need to pop up the shifter cover. You will see 2 screws holding in the cover that surrounds the head unit. Remove them and then pop the cover out from the top. You will now see 4 bigger screws that hold in the head unit and shelf. Remove those and the entire assembly slides out so you can get access to the back of the head unit.

I took my seats out (4 x 14mm bolts and a seat belt wire) and my arm rest assembly (4 x screws on the sides under button covers and 2 x 8mm bolts inside the arm rest compartment). If you have a CD/ tape compartment under the arm rest, it pops out exposing the brass bolts. Now you can run RCA cables to either under the seats or into the trunk under the carpet with those out of the way.

I set a day aside to do everything right, including shampooing carpet, checking / cleaning rust, bundling wires and running larger cables from the battery if need be. Take your time and enjoy it, it's a lot of fun wiring things up correctly!

Luni
01-30-2011, 11:36 PM
Heres some of mine from the trunk. My trunk gets used LOL, so pardon the mess, but you can get an idea for how clean it looks when the seats are up and youre just looking in the trunk.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/photo_2_412085.jpg

Heres how I ran the wires up through the seat carpet to make it "look" clean

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/photo_3.jpg

And heres the carpet folded down to "hide" the wires in the under area where theyre running from

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/photo_4.jpg

Me and Kanoodle on here built that box to spec for the Alpine Type-R sub Im running. I like how it turned out. Gives me room to put stuff on top of it on each side of the subwoofer, and behind it. I can still get a decent amount of crap in the trunk if I need to, and it sounds fantastic.

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 11:38 PM
As a general rule of thumb I really dislike mounting amps on the back of subwoofers. You wouldnt think so, but over time exposure to the resonance of the box will slowly rattle your amp apart and cause issues.

If youre going to mount it to the back of the box, you should use wooden 1 inch spacers with rubber between the wood and the amp to dampen it. Maybe this is me being "overkill" or "paranoid" but I dont do amps direct to boxes. Many other professional installers wont either.

Other than that, it really isnt that hard to run a power wire down one side and a set of RCAs down the other. Dont halfass it. Take shit apart. It isnt that hard to do right, if you dont get in the "oh this is too much" mentality. Take your time, do it right, run your wires clean, do what I said, and youll be fine.

Post what kind of celica you got and you might get advice on where to bring the power wire in through the firewall.

Thanks Luni I will take your advice about using spacers between the amp and the box it does make sense when you think about it. I have a 92 gts if anyone has any advice on where to bring the power wire in that would be great!

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 11:48 PM
You need a harness adapter for the head unit. Best Buy has an adapter for early 90's Toyotas that will work. You wire the head unit harness to the harness adapter. This is your cable that connects the head unit to the car.

You will need to run RCA's for the amplifiers. That will require removing parts of the interior. For the head unit, you need to pop up the shifter cover. You will see 2 screws holding in the cover that surrounds the head unit. Remove them and then pop the cover out from the top. You will now see 4 bigger screws that hold in the head unit and shelf. Remove those and the entire assembly slides out so you can get access to the back of the head unit.

I took my seats out (4 x 14mm bolts and a seat belt wire) and my arm rest assembly (4 x screws on the sides under button covers and 2 x 8mm bolts inside the arm rest compartment). If you have a CD/ tape compartment under the arm rest, it pops out exposing the brass bolts. Now you can run RCA cables to either under the seats or into the trunk under the carpet with those out of the way.

I set a day aside to do everything right, including shampooing carpet, checking / cleaning rust, bundling wires and running larger cables from the battery if need be. Take your time and enjoy it, it's a lot of fun wiring things up correctly!

Is it difficult to get the carpet back in place if you take it all out? I really want to try and take on this project myself, because I think it would be a good learning expirience. Plus the more things you learn how to do means you wont have to spend money to pay people to do it for you later! I think I already have the adapter you are talking about because I had best buy install my previous headunit. As for taking the seats out and the carpet up it will all depend on if my father has the tools that I would need to do it. That does sound like an excellent route to go considering I could shampoo the carpet (I really like a clean car... really hating Ohio winters and salt right now). I will look for the tools tonight and if I can find them its going to be an early morning to fire up the heater in the garage and get to work.

moofmaw
01-30-2011, 11:50 PM
Luni I will post a picture of my box when get a chance tomorrow. It really takes up most of my trunk space, but it fits so good in there haha. I like how clean your wires look in the back. I am going to try make mine look as clean as possible.

Galcobar
01-31-2011, 01:33 AM
Carpet's probably the easiest thing to get back into place, as it's shaped and it primarily held in place by velcro, or interior panels you install on top of it.

moofmaw
01-31-2011, 01:52 AM
Alright thanks Galcobar I did not know that it was held in place by velcro. Now I just need to make sure I have all the tools I need to either take the seats and carpet out or to run the wires along the plastic trim below the door.

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-31-2011, 01:54 AM
Hardest part is the seatbelt anchors. They can be a bitch to remove. Once they're out, the center is out and the seats are out you have 2 screws on the trunk / gas cap release. I fold the entire carpet over (wear a mask for brittle padding) and slide it out the door. Its molded and is easy to move.

Galcobar
01-31-2011, 03:42 AM
I actually found the anchors fairly easy to remove -- took the seats out first though, which may have given me more room to work on the bolt.

I originally ran my wires without removing the carpet, but I did take out the seats both times. The second was far easier to run the wires, but I'm not sure I'd have bothered had I not been laying insulation on the floorpan at the same time. There's enough slack in the carpet I could maneuver the wires, though I benefit from long fingers.

Luni
01-31-2011, 04:19 AM
Yeah Ive never removed carpet, I do however pull it up and reach my hand through, etc to get wires through.

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-31-2011, 05:13 AM
One Celica had dry rotted padding. It was in my lungs and mouth for a week. Tasted like it smelled. Smelled like fishy vagina. I keep a mask around now.

My first GTS had rusted anchor bolts. Twas a bitch. Otherwise, they come out like any stuck bolt with the right amount of torque.

I have run wires without removing carpet with much success, but nothing says a clean, job well done, when I can sit back and take pride in my bundles and their routes. Saves hassle later running them where they need to go, anchored, clean and neat. Plus I have caught rust cancer growing, which saves my ass in the long run. Rust can be the difference between a $4,000 AllTrac and a $700 AllTrac. Plus professional steam cleaning the fuck out of 20 years of filth is an added bonus when detailing the interior. Gotta love freshly cleaned carpet. Worth the time and effort IMO.

moofmaw
01-31-2011, 08:08 PM
alright guys I've run into my first problem. I started with the drivers side front speaker. I took off the plastic panel and the metal cover overtop of the speaker housing. I then unscrewed the 4 screws holding the speaker into the housing. How do I disconnect the speaker from the housing? as in the wires.

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-31-2011, 08:22 PM
If the speakers are original, the clips on the speaker posts may not want to let go. I pinched them a bit with pliers from the side to slide them off. You may damage the speaker, but if you're tossing it, who cares.

moofmaw
01-31-2011, 10:08 PM
Thanks I figured it out. I just had to pull on them a little harder. I was sure glad to find out that the new speakers just plug right on to the existing wires! I just finished installing the front two 4" speakers. I should have taken out the seats its hard to manuver around down there for a big guy. Well I am going to head to the gym for a couple hours then come back and either start working on the rear speakers or the tweeters. Does it really make any difference what order I install? I think I am going to install the headunit after I install all the speakers and tweeters. After that I think I will try and figure out the amplifier.

moofmaw
01-31-2011, 10:09 PM
Oh and one more thing this is actually really fun. Especially since all the install places around me wanted around $200 to $275 to do it all!

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-31-2011, 10:14 PM
I usually install the head unit first, check power, ignition, then speakers. That way I can test each channel as I install.

alltracNyx
02-01-2011, 01:47 AM
I usually install the head unit first, check power, ignition, then speakers. That way I can test each channel as I install.

+1 HU first has always been the route I take.

Luni
02-01-2011, 01:51 AM
Yeah, I install HU, (at least get it wired, and tested that it turns on, etc). On a system install HU IS the last thing that usually goes in permanently though.

moofmaw
02-01-2011, 04:23 AM
Well I just got finished putting in the 2 rear speakers and putting all of the panels back together in the trunk. I left the rear seat out so it would be easier to install the amplifier. I am going to work on installing the headunit tomorrow. I already have an older headunit in there so I was just testing each speaker as I went along. I am very happy that all 4 speakers are working. Does anyone know anything about replacing the tweeters? I took the cover off one of them and I wasnt really sure where to begin. I am guessing that you start with unscrewing it.

Okay next after the headunit and tweeters will be trying to install the amplifier. Does anyone know a good spot where I can bring the power in through the firewall? (I have a 92 GTS) I purchased a switch today at walmart since I had to buy longer screws to mount the speakers. Is it possible to hook the switch up to the power cable somehow so I can turn my amplifier/subs on and off just by flipping the switch? This is a real learning experience, but I'm digging it!

Car_Barn_Bandit
02-01-2011, 06:49 AM
Tweeters in the rear have a harness, follow it to where it disconnects. There should just be 2 screws holding their mounts. However you rig the new tweeters to the mounts is up to you. Some have a screw mount on the back.

I brought my wire in with the engine harness on the passenger side. Cut all the electrical wrapping off, and took the rubber boot off. Fed the cable into the boot and down inside the car behind the AC drier. Wrapped it up with electrical tape and screwed the boot back on. Others have drilled a hole, popped in a rubber guard around the metal hole, and fed the cable in near the driver side. It is up to you.

Now, you don't need a power switch. You should, however, have a break in the cable from the battery to the amplifier near the battery. Use a fuse holder here and get a fuse equal to the amps added up on the fuses of your amplifiers. For example, I have two amplifiers off of one cable, one 40 amp, one 50 amp. My fuse near the battery is 90 amp. When you need to work on the amplifier during install, leave the fuse out. Pop it out whenever you need to work on something electrical related to your sound system.

moofmaw
02-01-2011, 05:33 PM
I do not have system 10 so my tweeters would be going up in the front by where the side mirrors are. They are inch tweeters and I think the originals are 3/4 inch, so my plan is to cut out an opening in the tweeter cover and let the new tweeter stick out of that with the new tweeters cover on that. The reason why I wanted to wire up a switch turn turn my amp on and off is for two reasons. The cops are dicks in my hometown and where I went to college. The other reason is my mother drives my car occasionally when I am not using it, and I would rather have a switch for her to flip to not have the subs on rather than give her a tutorial on how my head unit works. I am guessing there should be a wire that goes from the power cable to the head unit so when the head unit is on the amplifier should be on?

moofmaw
02-01-2011, 11:35 PM
Ran into another problem today while trying to install the headunit. I need a different wiring harness... the old one does not fit the new headunit :(

alltracNyx
02-02-2011, 12:21 AM
Yes, there is a wire that goes from the HU to the amp for power that turns the amp on and off with the radio. It is called a remote wire, and it is usually the blue wire in the aftermarket radio harness.

Your new HU should have come with a wire harness that plugs into the radio itself. The other end you will need to wire into the existing harness. If you already had an aftermarket radio in the car, then hopefully there is already a wire harness connected to the two factory Toyota plugs (the ones that would plug into the factory radio). If the additional harness is already there, unplug it, cut off the old radio plug, and wire in the one that came with your new radio. Generally, the wire colors for most aftermarket radio harnesses should be the same, so you would just have to match them up.

If you are unsure, take a picture of the harness and post it so we can tell you for sure what is currently there.

moofmaw
02-03-2011, 03:30 PM
Well I thought I would give all of you an update on my progress. I took the wiring harness to best buy and had them connect all the wires. Then I came home hooked up the headunit. Next I ran the power cord for the amplifier through the boot down the passenger side like you suggested car barn bandit. Then I ran the RCA cables down the drivers side and the remote wire for the amplifer I ran down the drivers side also. I installed a switch on that little piece that pops out by the shifter to turn my amplifier on and off. I installed the ground wire in the back underneath the back seat. I then finished painting my sub box and put that in the back of the car. Then hooked up the subs to the amplifer. Did a test and everything works! Got done putting everything back together inside the car late last night. Next step is the tweeters. I had an extra tweeter cover laying around from my old celica so my father had an idea on how to get my new tweeters to fit since they are larger than the stock tweeters. What we are doing is poping out the mesh from the tweeter cover and filing around the hole to make it a little bigger so that the tweeter just fits inside of the cover. We will wire the tweeters up and hot glue the inside of the cover to make sure the tweeters dont pop out. They actually fit in the spare cover pretty damn good so it should work out great. I now have to get a new battery and battery cables because mine was sorta corroded and pretty old. The metal part for my ground battery cable has started to crack, so at least I saved money on installation to buy a new battery and cables thanks to you guys haha!

moofmaw
02-03-2011, 06:35 PM
How do I replace the tweeters. The original tweeters look like they have 3 wires connecting to them. The tweeters I am replacing with have only 2 wires. I have included 2 pictures of what I am talking about.

2936

2937


Also just a quick question before I start seaching where do the battery cables connect to (I mean the part opposite the battery)? Thanks

Facime
02-03-2011, 07:01 PM
That is a built in capacitor to gate the frequency above a certain point so the tweeter doesnt try to reproduce base frequencies it cant handle. Basically an inexpensive crossover.

If you look closely you see that one wire comes in then through the cap, to the other terminal of the speaker. The middle terminal there doesnt actually connect to the tweeter internally.

moofmaw
02-03-2011, 07:35 PM
So I am guessing after I disconnect it I do not need the built in capacitor so just connect the two wires and they should work?

Facime
02-03-2011, 07:52 PM
yes, that will work but are you running the tweeters off some other crossover network or do they already have caps on them? If not the you may want to take use the caps on the new tweets. Kind of hard to say without understanding your whole system setup.

moofmaw
02-03-2011, 08:08 PM
Okay I installed two 6.5" component speakers in the rear of the car. They came with two external crossover things. Did I need to use those I was not sure so I did not use them. I just plugged the speakers into the original speaker wires and put everything back together. I am not sure what the external crossover does??

Facime
02-04-2011, 01:19 AM
can you post links to what it is you are using?

If you dont use the crossovers then a full spectrum of sound is going to each speaker. Not every speaker is designed to function optimally like that so many good component manufacturers include a crossover to limit the frequencies their speakers see. This makes them sound better and protects them from damage to some extent.

If the component speakers came with crossovers, and the amps or HU dont have built in crossovers, then I would suggest using them. Without knowing what all you are using though its touch to make a recommendation.

Car_Barn_Bandit
02-04-2011, 01:23 AM
Typically the crossover cables are used to cut out low frequencies going to the tweeters.

Facime
02-04-2011, 01:42 AM
if its a decent little passive box its caps for tweets and coils for the woofers.

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 02:51 AM
Here is a link to the speakers that I am using.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+DS+6-1/2%22+2-Way+Component+Speakers+with+Polypropylene+Cones+(P air)/9892233.p?id=1218190733465&skuId=9892233

I think I do need to use the crossover, because I think without it I may blow my tweeters because they will be trying to play the full spectrum.

Well task for tomorrow is wiring in both of the crossover boxes and the tweeters... damn I have to take the panels off again haha...

On a might brighter note I replaced my battery today and my terminals. Upgraded to an Optima yellow top :)

Car_Barn_Bandit
02-04-2011, 03:02 AM
The boxes allow you to control the freq to their tweeters. You could get creative and install them so you can access them sitting in your door panel pouch. Access to adjustability!

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 04:45 AM
Okay so are the crossover boxes just to control the tweeters or do they also control the speakers?

Car_Barn_Bandit
02-04-2011, 04:47 AM
They should just be for the tweeters. Do they have one input and one output?

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 05:20 AM
No it looks like it has either one input and two outputs or one output and two inputs?? I will try to pm you an image because it says I cant upload another attachment.

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 05:25 AM
Alright I cant figure out how to send a picture in the PM either, but on one side of the box it has one set of cords and on the other side it has two sets of cords. That is why I sorta think that it has something to do with both the speakers and the tweeters? What do you think?

Luni
02-04-2011, 06:05 AM
Dude, the crossovers are for both speakers.

You NEED to install them. The single INPUT is a single 2 pair wire. The OUTPUTS go to each speaker. ALL component sets use this sort of crossover.

Car_Barn_Bandit
02-04-2011, 06:14 AM
My alpines only had crossovers for the tweeters. They were inline.

You can get some bass blockers for the tweeters up front and then use the crossovers on the rear speakers. Bass blockers are small enough to work in your door panel.

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 01:48 PM
Thanks guys it came with two crossover boxes so I'm guessing one for the speakers and one for the tweeters. Looks like I'll be taking the inside of my car apart again today haha. Thanks I probably would have ruined everything I put in without all of you on here.

Luni
02-04-2011, 06:27 PM
It came with 2 boxes. One for each side. The speaker/tweeter is a set. One wire into the box, 2 wires out of the box. One for a woofer, one for a tweeter.

If they came with it, you SHOULD use it. It wont sound right without it.

moofmaw
02-04-2011, 11:18 PM
Well I got everything hooked up right now and it sounds awesome! Only problem now is less than an hour after I finished installing everything someone backed into me...:madfawk: they put a dent and a scratch in my rear drivers side wheel well.. looks like now I will be going to get body work done.. its a never ending battle.

alltracNyx
02-05-2011, 12:29 AM
^Ain't that the sad truth, you finish fixing/upgrading one thing, and something else is broken. Good luck with that man!

moofmaw
02-05-2011, 01:53 AM
Thanks haha well at least it was an insurance company owner that hit it. So it will definitely be taken care of :)