View Full Version : [How-To] Disassemble the Alternator & Polish

01-16-2011, 02:08 AM
This is described in the BGB, but it does call for some SST's which aren't totally necessary, so I'll show you how I did it.

This is an alternator from a 1990 3S-GTE.

Here is the BGB's breakdown of parts:


A very visible piece on our motors is the alternator, and usually due to corrosion, they look very well weathered after a few years on the road. Here's mine (ewwe!)


The first and possibly most challenging piece to remove is the pulley. Many people can use an impact gun on the 22mm nut and hold the pulley by hand and it will pop off. I used a vice to secure the pulley and a big breaker bar. Just be careful not to damage your pulley.



On the other side there are 4 nuts holding the two housing halves together. Remove these but be careful not to strip them.


Now remove the end cover. Remove all of the nuts, the electrical plug, and the wire.


The cover will come right off.


Next remove the 5 screws securing the brushes & holder and IC regulator.


Now remove the 4 screws on the side holding on the rectifier holder. Remove the rubber grommets that go over the wires as well.


Rectifier holder removed


From here, you should be able to separate the two housing halves. You should have this:


Now remove the rotor. To do so you will need a puller device as it is press fit in place.


Here is the housing with the rotor removed.


And here is everything together:


I have not yet found a way to remove the stator / coil from the casing.

To be continued.

01-16-2011, 02:09 AM
Starting Point:


After ~1 hour sanding with 80 grit, and with sanding attachment on electric drill as shown in pics:

No Flash


With Flash


01-16-2011, 02:39 AM
excellent work Chris. That brush set can be purchased from toyota for around $18 or you can get a set of solder in place replacement brushes for about $5 from any auto parts store. I got mine from Napa. You simply unsolder the point at the back of the holder, remove old brush, replace with new brush pulling the brush far enough into the holder to keep it from flopping over, then solder the braided copper wire into place.

(Chris, if you go with a toyota set, for the "how to" it might be nice to show the process anyway.)

01-16-2011, 03:33 AM
^Good tips, thanks. :)

Not sure which I'll go with quite yet, but will definitely outline the process with pics as well. :)

01-16-2011, 03:50 AM
looks to me like your brushes were at the end of their life anway.

01-16-2011, 05:33 AM
Probably. I'll measure them for kicks anyway, but they've got ~110,000 km's on them.

01-19-2011, 11:35 PM
Updated post 2 with polishing progress so far. 1 hour spent, probably will take at least 5-6 hours I'm thinking.

The Captain
01-21-2011, 01:57 PM
You da man.

07-27-2013, 04:23 PM
Bumping this so I can find it again. Update coming.

07-27-2013, 04:28 PM
Removing the stator basically involved slowly tapping it out with a driver and hammer through the slots.


Decided not to do the polishing and had it ceramic coated. Pics coming soon!

07-28-2013, 04:42 AM
Took you 2 1/2 years to tap that fucker out?!!!!! That's patience.

07-28-2013, 05:26 AM

Ya, I had a baby, things got put on hold. Did some projects on the 205 in the mean time.

07-28-2013, 05:34 AM
Some reassembly pics... Had the casing ceramic coated, love how it turned out.

Reinstall the bearing.


Tap the stator back in. (don't put the rubber spacers back in until the casing is together again, I was just test fitting various things)


Pop the rotor back in.


FIRST, install the long studs with the nut in them half way down. Then, got the two halves together and then eh the 4 nuts.


Now put those rubber grommets in.


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07-28-2013, 05:40 AM
Pop on the rectifier.


Attach the wires with screws.


Install new brushes while you're at it! Mine have 100,000kms on then to give you an idea of wear.


Fitted along with the IC regulator by 5 screws. Don't forget the rubber spacer underneath.


Rubber cap on top.


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07-28-2013, 05:44 AM
Pop on the last cover with the wire, connector, and studs / nuts.


Admire your work!

3318 3319 3320

And one to give an idea of what it will look like in the engine bay.


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07-28-2013, 06:25 AM
I really like how it turned out Chris. :)

07-28-2013, 10:01 PM
Thanks Mario! Me too! :)

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07-29-2013, 06:02 AM
Looks really good man.

The first thing I saw when I looked at the installed pic was the header. lol.

07-29-2013, 07:11 PM

Looks really good man.

The first thing I saw when I looked at the installed pic was the header. lol.

Me too.

Are you going to ceramic coat the manifold/adapter/turbine housing too?

07-29-2013, 08:27 PM
Lol. Everything is still a work in progress so it's not the final view yet. (even still, it's all a product of time and money and I'm limited in both!). Not to mention I will polish the Ic piping and have a shiny bov going on.

I do have a shiny heat shield I'll be installing that will cover the manifold. Turbo is already coated. ;)

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07-29-2013, 09:26 PM
I just noticed that you're ST165-0004333....

Stacy's is 4982 lol

Would've been cooler if they were closer, but 649 units in a 10000 unit run isn't bad :)

08-19-2013, 07:26 PM
Chris, did you replace brushes and other parts?

Facime, if you have rebuilt one of these things, maybe a writeup would be cool?

I have an alternator that needs to be rebuilt. Id send it to you and pay for all the stuff if you wanted to do it and do a writeup. Id even pay you a bit.

Unless the writeup is already there then Ill just follow it.

08-19-2013, 07:48 PM
uhhhhh....everything you need to know about rebuilding one is right here in this tread. Did you even read the thread man!?

08-19-2013, 07:55 PM

He didnt put part numbers, or where shit is located, where he got it from, etc.

08-20-2013, 12:31 AM
geez! do you need me to hold your hand while you do it as well?


08-20-2013, 01:03 AM
That sort of information is important IMO.

Nevermind then. Ill figure it out myself.

08-20-2013, 03:44 AM
^Hissy fit. :hehe:

The only thing I replaced were the brushes. There's a pic in there comparing new vs old. The part number for the gen 2 alternator brushes is 27370-75060.

Mine wasn't in need of a rebuild so I didn't do anything other than that. It was primarily an aesthetics exercise, but the brushes were easy and somewhat cheap ($30 I think) so I did them.

Anything specific you want to know? From a disassembly perspective out was reasonably straight forward.

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08-20-2013, 03:46 AM
Oh and I got the brushes from a friend who made an order from Toyota Japan for my 205s suspension parts, but I'm sure they are really available here too.

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