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View Full Version : [How-To] Disassemble the Alternator & Polish



ChrisD
01-16-2011, 02:08 AM
This is described in the BGB, but it does call for some SST's which aren't totally necessary, so I'll show you how I did it.

This is an alternator from a 1990 3S-GTE.

Here is the BGB's breakdown of parts:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1656.jpg

A very visible piece on our motors is the alternator, and usually due to corrosion, they look very well weathered after a few years on the road. Here's mine (ewwe!)

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1634.jpg

The first and possibly most challenging piece to remove is the pulley. Many people can use an impact gun on the 22mm nut and hold the pulley by hand and it will pop off. I used a vice to secure the pulley and a big breaker bar. Just be careful not to damage your pulley.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1633.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1637.jpg

On the other side there are 4 nuts holding the two housing halves together. Remove these but be careful not to strip them.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1642.jpg

Now remove the end cover. Remove all of the nuts, the electrical plug, and the wire.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1643.jpg

The cover will come right off.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1644.jpg

Next remove the 5 screws securing the brushes & holder and IC regulator.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1646.jpg

Now remove the 4 screws on the side holding on the rectifier holder. Remove the rubber grommets that go over the wires as well.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1647.jpg

Rectifier holder removed

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1648.jpg

From here, you should be able to separate the two housing halves. You should have this:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1650.jpg

Now remove the rotor. To do so you will need a puller device as it is press fit in place.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1652.jpg

Here is the housing with the rotor removed.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1654.jpg

And here is everything together:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1655.jpg

I have not yet found a way to remove the stator / coil from the casing.

To be continued.

ChrisD
01-16-2011, 02:09 AM
Starting Point:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1634.jpg

After ~1 hour sanding with 80 grit, and with sanding attachment on electric drill as shown in pics:

No Flash

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1658.jpg

With Flash

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/img_1657.jpg

Facime
01-16-2011, 02:39 AM
excellent work Chris. That brush set can be purchased from toyota for around $18 or you can get a set of solder in place replacement brushes for about $5 from any auto parts store. I got mine from Napa. You simply unsolder the point at the back of the holder, remove old brush, replace with new brush pulling the brush far enough into the holder to keep it from flopping over, then solder the braided copper wire into place.

(Chris, if you go with a toyota set, for the "how to" it might be nice to show the process anyway.)

ChrisD
01-16-2011, 03:33 AM
^Good tips, thanks. :)

Not sure which I'll go with quite yet, but will definitely outline the process with pics as well. :)

Facime
01-16-2011, 03:50 AM
looks to me like your brushes were at the end of their life anway.

ChrisD
01-16-2011, 05:33 AM
Probably. I'll measure them for kicks anyway, but they've got ~110,000 km's on them.

ChrisD
01-19-2011, 11:35 PM
Updated post 2 with polishing progress so far. 1 hour spent, probably will take at least 5-6 hours I'm thinking.

The Captain
01-21-2011, 01:57 PM
You da man.

ChrisD
07-27-2013, 04:23 PM
Bumping this so I can find it again. Update coming.

ChrisD
07-27-2013, 04:28 PM
Removing the stator basically involved slowly tapping it out with a driver and hammer through the slots.

3304

Decided not to do the polishing and had it ceramic coated. Pics coming soon!

alltracman78
07-28-2013, 04:42 AM
Took you 2 1/2 years to tap that fucker out?!!!!! That's patience.

ChrisD
07-28-2013, 05:26 AM
LOL! :D

Ya, I had a baby, things got put on hold. Did some projects on the 205 in the mean time.

ChrisD
07-28-2013, 05:34 AM
Some reassembly pics... Had the casing ceramic coated, love how it turned out.

Reinstall the bearing.

3307

Tap the stator back in. (don't put the rubber spacers back in until the casing is together again, I was just test fitting various things)

3308

Pop the rotor back in.

3309

FIRST, install the long studs with the nut in them half way down. Then, got the two halves together and then eh the 4 nuts.

3310

Now put those rubber grommets in.

3311

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ChrisD
07-28-2013, 05:40 AM
Pop on the rectifier.

3312

Attach the wires with screws.

3313

Install new brushes while you're at it! Mine have 100,000kms on then to give you an idea of wear.

3314

Fitted along with the IC regulator by 5 screws. Don't forget the rubber spacer underneath.

3315

Rubber cap on top.

3316

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ChrisD
07-28-2013, 05:44 AM
Pop on the last cover with the wire, connector, and studs / nuts.

3317

Admire your work!

3318 3319 3320

And one to give an idea of what it will look like in the engine bay.

3321

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Shadowlife25
07-28-2013, 06:25 AM
I really like how it turned out Chris. :)

ChrisD
07-28-2013, 10:01 PM
Thanks Mario! Me too! :)

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crymson
07-29-2013, 06:02 AM
Looks really good man.

The first thing I saw when I looked at the installed pic was the header. lol.

bloodMoney
07-29-2013, 07:11 PM
Shiney!!!


Looks really good man.

The first thing I saw when I looked at the installed pic was the header. lol.

Me too.

Are you going to ceramic coat the manifold/adapter/turbine housing too?

ChrisD
07-29-2013, 08:27 PM
Lol. Everything is still a work in progress so it's not the final view yet. (even still, it's all a product of time and money and I'm limited in both!). Not to mention I will polish the Ic piping and have a shiny bov going on.

I do have a shiny heat shield I'll be installing that will cover the manifold. Turbo is already coated. ;)

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bloodMoney
07-29-2013, 09:26 PM
I just noticed that you're ST165-0004333....

Stacy's is 4982 lol

Would've been cooler if they were closer, but 649 units in a 10000 unit run isn't bad :)

Luni
08-19-2013, 07:26 PM
Chris, did you replace brushes and other parts?

Facime, if you have rebuilt one of these things, maybe a writeup would be cool?

I have an alternator that needs to be rebuilt. Id send it to you and pay for all the stuff if you wanted to do it and do a writeup. Id even pay you a bit.

Unless the writeup is already there then Ill just follow it.

Facime
08-19-2013, 07:48 PM
uhhhhh....everything you need to know about rebuilding one is right here in this tread. Did you even read the thread man!?

Luni
08-19-2013, 07:55 PM
What?

He didnt put part numbers, or where shit is located, where he got it from, etc.

Facime
08-20-2013, 12:31 AM
geez! do you need me to hold your hand while you do it as well?

:fruit:

Luni
08-20-2013, 01:03 AM
That sort of information is important IMO.

Nevermind then. Ill figure it out myself.

ChrisD
08-20-2013, 03:44 AM
^Hissy fit. :hehe:

The only thing I replaced were the brushes. There's a pic in there comparing new vs old. The part number for the gen 2 alternator brushes is 27370-75060.

Mine wasn't in need of a rebuild so I didn't do anything other than that. It was primarily an aesthetics exercise, but the brushes were easy and somewhat cheap ($30 I think) so I did them.

Anything specific you want to know? From a disassembly perspective out was reasonably straight forward.



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ChrisD
08-20-2013, 03:46 AM
Oh and I got the brushes from a friend who made an order from Toyota Japan for my 205s suspension parts, but I'm sure they are really available here too.

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