View Full Version : Paint Restoration

01-15-2011, 02:28 AM
So the roof hood and trunk of my celica are sun damaged from sitting out in the sun for 2 years. The car was painted just before it broke down.

Any tips to get the sheen back to it?

01-15-2011, 03:28 AM
what color is it? (more specifically is it one of the colors that is CC'd)
If its clearcoated and the CC is "chalking" or the paint under it is fading, there is very little you can do about it. If its superred, superwhite or ...I think the solid black is a single stage paint?...then you can bring the luster back pretty easily.
If you dont own a rotary or orbital buffer then even just going over it with "Cleaner wax" (I prefer Meguires) will help alot. If you want to fork out for a quality orbital or rotary and the correct pads and compounds you can restore a showroom shine in an afternoon, but it wont be cheap.

I personally prefer my rotary, its a bit faster for really neglected paint but is more risky. The right compound with the right pad at the right speed, applied in the right manner makes a big difference and takes practice though. Its not something I recommend for the casual "detail".

For the casual detailer working by hand, Meguires cleaner wax or scratchX would be where I start.

01-15-2011, 03:53 AM
Its Red. It used to be Super Red.

I had it painted at a cheap Maaco type place. it is dual stage paint.

If you want i can get you a sample picture of the paint tomorrow.

01-15-2011, 04:10 AM
Is it flaking at all? or is it just really faded?

01-15-2011, 05:21 AM
yes, please post some photos, including an overall and some detail shots from at most 12inches at a slight angle. see if you can capture the edge point between good paint and bad as well.

Macco 2 stage = failing clear most lilely, and unfortunately the most you can probably do with that is preserve it in its current state for a little while longer.

01-15-2011, 05:31 AM
Aight, i will get some for ya tomorrow. No flaking just Bleh looking.

01-15-2011, 08:21 AM
Go-to recommendation: claybar, then Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, followed by ScratchX 2.0 (not the original stuff, if that's still on the shelf). Both are easily applied by hand, though will work with a random-orbital polisher even better. Follow with a good sealant. I should note however this is a fairly generic recommendation which will yield results dependent upon paint condition, type, and the effort one is willing to put in.

Cleaner wax has good cleaning properties, but it is extremely mild in its abrasives content and is intended primarily as a one-step process for paint in reasonably good condition. Restoration requires more aggressive methods.

01-15-2011, 06:56 PM
Heres the pictures of it.





Heres one of good paint


Heres an overall shot


Any advice will be appreciated. I think it is going to go up for sale though.

01-15-2011, 08:01 PM
I am happy with my $30 orbital from Summit Racing. I use Meguiars Ultimate Compound and their Tech Wax 2.0. removed a lot of swirls and some haze in the clear coat. I don't know how well rubbing compound will work with the Maaco. I'd recommend taking a small amount of Compound on a cloth and use a knuckle to rub a corner of that hood. If it gets you anywhere, get a buffer.

01-15-2011, 09:03 PM
I think thats savable, but I would like to be sure its 2 stage first. Do you have any kind of compound laying around: cleaner wax, rubbing compound, plastic polish, even a little toothpaste would work. Just use a little in a corner somewhere. If the cloth comes away red (or pink) then its single stage, if no color comes off then its definately cc'd.

I personally use all Mequires Professional Series (Mirror Glaze) products with a rotary buffer and 3 different levels of pad (cutting wool, polishing foam and finishing foam). If I were going to try to correct your paint I would start with Diamond cut 2.0 (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+DIA+1) on the wool (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+W4000), followed by Swirl remover 2.0 (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+SWIRL+16) on a polishing pad (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+W8207), then machine glaze (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+MAC+16) on the finishing pad (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+W9207) and finally synthetic sealant (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+SEA2+16) applied by hand.

To start from scratch and buy all that would cost over $300 depending on the buffer you buy. But you would have the supplies to do several jobs and the pads last quite a while.

If you dont want to go that far and just want it to look decent again my suggestion is to get an inexpensive variable speed orbital and at LEAST a polishing pad to fit it. Then work it with the 3 step Mequires Deep Crystal System, Cleaner (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+A3016), Polish (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+A2116), but substitute the NXT Tech Wax 2.0 (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G12718) in place of the Deep Crystal Carnuba.

So, wash the car REALLY well then use the cleaner, polish and wax in succession via the buffer. Keep the buffer speed low and go easy on the product. The pad is supposed to do a good portion of the work while the product keeps it lubricated. If it starts to get gummy, just wash it out with dish soap and warm water, then spin dry it (make sure its good and dry before continuing).
I would also suggest you get youself at least a 10pack of decent quality microfiber towels. I use two while removing the polish and wax. One for the bulk of it and one to really finish it out, Then I rotate in a new clean one and use the less dirty of the first two as the bulk remover. You can never have too many clean microfiber towels.

01-16-2011, 09:12 AM
Deep Crystal has no abrasives in any of its components, so I'm not sure it'd produce much more than a good clean on his paint. Correction will really be required to return a good finish to that paint, I think. Looking at what you're dealing with, I'd stick with my original recommendation. Facime's comment about having lots of MF towels around is a good one. I'd add a few foam applicators, which make for a more even application than any cloth I've ever used.

01-16-2011, 09:17 AM
and paint your window trim moldings back to black.....makes it look way cleaner.

01-16-2011, 05:56 PM
Deep Crystal has no abrasives in any of its components, so I'm not sure it'd produce much more than a good clean on his paint. Correction will really be required to return a good finish to that paint, I think.

Thats why I asked for verification if the paint is clearcoated or not. If its clear coat failure, no amount of abrasive is going to help anyway (with the exception of sanding it all off and re-clearing it). If its a single stage then that is all just oxidation and abrasives arent really necessary (although they will speed the process of removal a bit) and a single application of cleaner wax would probably suffice for the average person. I also see he has the car for sale so Im guessing he wants to put as little in it as possible while achieving decent enough results to help sell the car.

Its hard to say without seeing it in person and experimenting a little, but I know the products I use and how to achieve the best result with whats left of a paint job. Honestly, I usually wont even touch a Maaco paint job.

01-16-2011, 06:00 PM
Im going to my dads later today to work on it. he has an orbital buffer so i will post pics of the results

01-16-2011, 10:17 PM
The Cleaner wax/ Polish wax worked pretty well.

I now have a 15 foot paintjob.

Tomorrow im going to Nightshade my corners, markers and tails. Pics to come after everything is done.

02-05-2011, 03:52 PM
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is great for Paint jobs like that. My SAAB had the same fade issues as Super Red does, and that stuff worked well.