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4thgenceli
01-12-2011, 06:48 PM
Hopefully a buddy can come over and help knock out a few things on the Celica. One thing I can't seem to find a clear answer for is this:

Is there any recommended method to 'prime' oil?

When I assembled the engine I used assembly oil and such. This weekend I'm going to crank the engine again but need to get oil spread around the block/head/etc without doing any damage to the internals? I'm assuming there wouldn't be much damage as it's not actually combusting and turning 500+ rpm under it's own power. My line of thought is:

1) replace oil filter with new one
2) fill up with oil (going to just be Valvoline 10w30 max life syn. blend for now, will switch to royal purple syn for breaking & regular oil changes)
3) crank engine for a few seconds at a time to promote oil flow throughout block and other engine components.


Also does any MR2 owner happen to have a clutch slave cylinder laying around and feels like shipping me the fucking pushrod from the slave cylinder? The one I bought doesn't have a pushrod with it. The pushrod from the 162's slave cylinder is too long.

Night_Wolf
01-12-2011, 06:51 PM
Just pull the main coil plug and turn it over that way there is no spark and it primes itself

4thgenceli
01-12-2011, 07:51 PM
I don't have the plugs in (need to buy a set still). From what I scraped off this site you should put oil in, disconnect the main ECU fuse (To prevent fuel/spark) and remove spark plugs so there is no pressure when trying to turn over. Seeing as how there is no fuel pump, and no fuel in the lines (already cleared that all out) I think I can just fill up and crank for a few seconds a couple times until I have oil in my filter, right?

Night_Wolf
01-12-2011, 10:15 PM
Yep no plugs means no compression so not as much load on the bearings as your turning it over. Just turn it over a couple times and the system will prime itself

ChrisD
01-12-2011, 11:42 PM
Hope this helps you out too

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?51409-ST205-Charcoal-Canister-Vacuum-Hose-Routing

:)

Lagos
01-13-2011, 03:36 AM
If you rebuild the engine, you should use normal cheap oil for the first 1000 miles. Then switch to a synth blend or whatever you like.

Mafix
01-13-2011, 02:13 PM
yeah you don't want synthetic, maxlife, or blend for break in. racing oil would be preferable or a zinc additive. but non-synthetic all the way.
why won't the 162 rod work? i never have issues like these. mabye i'm wierd? lol.

4thgenceli
01-13-2011, 03:18 PM
Well then off to the store I go for some cheap o' 10w30 lolz.

The pushrod on the 162 is longer than the mr2's one from what I can tell visually (reference) and how it's installed right now. I'll get some pictures over the weekend.

Smaay
01-13-2011, 03:27 PM
i actually pull the ECU plugs, that way the injectors do not fire and a misfire CEL will not be recorded. even if you pull the coil, the injectors will still squirt and fill the cylinder with fuel.

4thgenceli
01-13-2011, 03:53 PM
i actually pull the ECU plugs, that way the injectors do not fire and a misfire CEL will not be recorded. even if you pull the coil, the injectors will still squirt and fill the cylinder with fuel.

I know mine won't do that though. The fuel rail is empty, the lines all the way back are empty, and the fuel rail is not connected to the system yet.

JDM SNUKUMZ
01-13-2011, 03:57 PM
pull the EFI fuse and start cranking till the oil light goes out.