View Full Version : Battery Relocation & Power Distribution Blocks

11-05-2010, 05:15 PM
I've decided to relocate the battery to the trunk.

Ill be doing this via The Captain and DeeCee's method, or a mix of the two. Basically ill follow DeeCee's write up for wiring in the engine bay and then The Captains write up for inside the cabin. This is supposedly the best way to go about it.

The other day I was reading about 12v power sources when I discovered the proper way to power your aftermarket goodies (gauges, EBC, fans, amp etc.) is with a power distribution block.

For those that don't know, its basically a little block that has an input for a heavy gauge wire and several outlets to distribute the power from said heavy gauge wire. There are many styles with different sizes and numbers of inlets/outlets, some with glass fuses, blade fuses, no fuses etc.

Now, I have a few things to decide..

1. The battery, sealed or vented?

A sealed battery will be very expensive but easier to install. A standard battery with a sealed box (vented outside the cabin) will be much less expensive but more work to fabricate.

I have a little Honda battery I've been planning to use, I believe its strong enough and about half the size of a normal battery.

Right now I'm leaning towards a standard battery with a sealed box since I can fab the whole thing for free pretty much.

What's your opinion?

2. Distribution blocks.

I'm not sure which kind to get.

I'd like one that's fused, with at least 4 outlets.

The problem is I can only find them with glass fuses, not blades. Does that matter?

3. The setup.

At the moment I'm thinking about using two dist. blocks, one in the back (where the battery will be located) and one under the hood (connected to the alternator).

The one in the back, connected to the battery, would power anything inside the cabin like my amp and gauges etc. One under the hood would be more for future modifications, fans, waterinjection etc.

What do you all think?

P.S. I'm not that great with electrical so if I've missed or completely overlooked something, forgive me. Also I started this topic with my phone (bored at work) so ill grab pics, links, references later.

11-06-2010, 02:52 AM
I'd spend the extra money and get the sealed battery. That way you've got no worries about something happening and the battery getting cracked open and acid going everywhere. I know you can buy or fab a box to put it in but there's always a chance that you could take a shot that ruptures the box. Just my personal preference.

I've got a marine power block in my car. I got it at Bass Pro and it uses the blade fuses. It's got six take off points. I'm running my WTA pump and amp off it and it works great. This is the listing at Bass Pro:


As far as running two, great idea. As long as you hook them up right, you can't really have too many.

11-06-2010, 09:36 AM
^Looks like a good little unit.

I assume you used a relay.. Did you have one before the distribution block or several after?

11-16-2010, 10:52 PM
I got a relay ahead of the block for the intercooler pump. The other two circuits are just fused.

The Captain
11-17-2010, 07:54 PM
This is my distribution block under the hood:
This is my battery terminals:
This is my fuse:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Anl-Fuse-Block-1-Position-1-0-4GA-1-0-4GA-Out-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a6054a570QQitemZ25072 4263280QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo

Fuse should be as close to the battery as possible just in case the wire wears through and grounds between battery and block. OEM there is no fuse between battery and starter for better current flow. If you insist upon a fused distribution panel, I'd use the block above then a sub-fuse panel for whatever else you want to run off the block.
Spend the money on a gel cell battery. Getting splashed with battery acid in a wreck would suck. Bubbling batteries rot steel. I have a yellow top Optima.

The above battery terminals have four holes. A 1/0, a 4ga and two 8 ga. Use the 1/0 to the front and the 4 ga to run stuff inside the car. I use the 1/0 to the engine and the 4 ga to my amps straight off the terminals. Fused of course.

11-17-2010, 08:02 PM
I'll post all mine up when I get home and have a chance to search & find it all. I bought it all from KnuKoncepts (or however you spell it). I blinged on the battery terminal connectors though and bought the ones that can do 1/0, 4 or 8gauge. I have 1/0 for the b+ and ground. I used a grounding block in the engine bay to go from 1/0 to 4gauge and insulated it with some rubber guard from an old motor mount and electrical tape on the sides to prevent any unwanted grounding.

11-17-2010, 08:08 PM
I have a yellow top Optima.

I second the Yellow Top. Great battery that won't die because of a sound system.

I get my wiring from an electrical supply. 15 a foot, shielded, solid copper. I don't buy into expensive stranded, or braided "auto-pro" bullshit when it comes to wires needed for juice. Sure they're a royal pain to pull, but they have the least resistance and longest shelf life. Again, 15 a foot...

12-15-2010, 02:20 PM
Always install the battery in a box vented external of the cabin. I don't care if it is sealed, AGM, Gell cell or what. Always Vented box. Check your rule books for any racing class (any that I have seen) and it is going to be a requirement. AGM, Gell Cell, sealed etc can still hurt you if busted. I have seen several hatchback 'stangs kicked off the track for having the battery in the hatch and not vented, on a coupe you are fine, as the trunk is not part of the cabin.