View Full Version : How to disassemble engine 2ZZ-GE (Smaay way)

10-26-2010, 07:48 PM
Start by removing the axle bearing carrier. Itís secured by (3) 14MM bolts.

Remove the header support bar. Its held on by (2) 14MM bolts and (1) 14MM nut

Remove the (8) bolts securing the transmission to the block. Start with the (2) 14MM bolts with washers right by the VIN plate.

Next remove the (2) short 14MM bolts under the transmission

Remove the (2) starter bolts, one is on each side of the starter

Finally remove the larger 17MM bolts on top of the tranny

Wiggle the transmission and it will separate from the block

Remove the (6) 12MM bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel, be careful not to let the clutch disk fall and get damaged

Here is the bare flywheel, its secured by (8) 14MM 12pt bolts. After removing them they should be thrown away. I have re-used them before with no issues but it is not recommended. ARP bolts for the 4A-GE are a much better replacement and can be obtained from MWR or other retailers.

Remove the alternator if it hasnít already been done, Its secured by a 12MM bolt up top and a 14MM bolt below.

Remove the serpentine belt tensioner, its secured by a large 17MM bolt. Check it out for damage like the torque nut is stripped, replace if necessary like in this case




Remove the (4) 10MM bolts holding the pulley wheel to the water pump

Here is a picture of the cam gears, I'm not familiar with this exhaust gear, if anyone can identify it, please PM me

Remove the water pump. Its secured by (5) 10MM bolts, pay attention, some are longer than others, remember where they went!

Remove the crank pulley bolt, Itís a 19MM


More orange silicone, BAD!

Remove the crank position sensor, it has a 10MM bolt holding it in and another 10MM bolt holding the wiring

Remove the timing chain tensioner. (2) 10MM nuts hold it down.

Sorry I didnít get a picture, but remove the remaining 10MM bolts and the (3) 12 MM bolts around the timing cover and pull it away from the block. This is what you will see.

Remove the crank position sensor tooth gear. Remember that the F is facing out on assembly!

Remove timing chain by sliding the chain gear on the crank out around the oil pump.

Remove the exhaust manifold (header) if it has not already been done. Itís secured by (3) 14MM bolts, and (2) 14MM nuts. You should NOT see all this orange crap!!!!!!


Start removing the cam caps, they are 10MM bolts. The caps are labeled so you canít put them in the wrong place. Look at how they are marked.


Inspect lift bolts, this is the intake that usually breaks. Here you can see the wear on it. This is the newer style lift bolt.


Remove the water pipe from the front of the block, its held on by a 10MM bolt in the front and a 12MM bolt on the side of the head.

Again I forgot to take a pic, but once the cam caps are removed, lift out the cams. The head bolts are in the holes under the cams. You need a special 12MM 12pt tool to remove the bolts. Start with the middle 2 bolts and work outward in a cross pattern. Once all (10) bolts are removed, lift off the head.

Check out these cylinder walls!!!! This is a 2ZZ-GE and is NEVER to be honed! This poor individual had a shop assemble this engine, no wonder it burns oil! While honing the cylinder is common practice on MOST engines, itís not done on the 2ZZ-GE. The pistons, rings, and cylinders are all TOAST! This block must be sleeved to be salvaged, Fortunately thatís the plan and a turbo will be going on with new pistons.



10-26-2010, 08:17 PM
please enlighten me on the honing aspect. Whats different with the 2ZZ that makes it not proper to hone? how do the rings get properly seated?

10-27-2010, 01:01 AM
the 2ZZ has an MMC treated cylinder wall, much like the H22 in the Prelude. The walls must be perfectly smooth. The type of ring and piston used are special to this cylinder wall. that is why you cant just drop in a billit piston, it will tear up the walls. Mahle makes a drop in piston. its treated on the sides just for this application.

http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinfo/Random%20FSM%20Data/2zzfe.pdf read page 7

10-27-2010, 01:11 AM
cool thanks. always good to learn something new.

10-29-2010, 05:40 AM
Wow very nice tear down, you're the man Smaay they have a really clean engine, how many miles on that engine? Do you know what kind of oil was used?

10-29-2010, 11:26 AM
the 2zz is notorious for staying clean i think. mine and ryans both look new under the valve cover. i use castrol, royal purple and now amsoil.

10-31-2010, 05:44 PM
i think the aluminum block has something to do with that. i have noitced that iron blocks make the oil dark much faster.

11-10-2010, 04:20 PM
the 2ZZ has an MMC treated cylinder wall, much like the H22 in the Prelude. The walls must be perfectly smooth. The type of ring and piston used are special to this cylinder wall. that is why you cant just drop in a billit piston, it will tear up the walls. Mahle makes a drop in piston. its treated on the sides just for this application.

I'm not familiar with the MMC walls, however the FRM walls on an H22 can be honed, although you need to take it to somebody who knows they're a special wall and is able to properly hone them or you will tear them up. You're right about the pistons, only Mahle gold series or JUN pistons will work unless you sleeve (on the H22).

11-11-2010, 04:27 PM
^^^ yes the 2ZZ and the H22 share similar cylinder walls. i talked to one of my best friends who is a toyota engineer and he said that the walls could be honed with a walnut shell hone? never heard of it. but the cylinder wall must be perfectly smooth.

11-16-2010, 07:41 AM
Great write up, this should be stickied in the top of the 7th gen section.

11-18-2010, 06:00 PM
poor job on who ever put that engine back together. nice pics to see what's inside the gts