View Full Version : Wastegate actuator bracket for clocked turbo v.pics & measurements

09-04-2010, 03:52 AM
Was requested I throw some pictures up of the bracket I fabbed up. I had originally cut it out of 16 gauge sheet steel (as pictured below). This turned out to be too weak and would flex without any resistance. Talked to a guy next door, and he cut the same template out of 1/4" aluninum stock. Light, yet strong. I'm able to get full extension on the wastegate actuator rod without bending or flexing.

Anyway, onto the pictures.

This took a few weeks for me to design, test, redesign, test, redesign and test again. This is only a guide showing the methods and measurements I used to create my bracket. Don't holler at me if you over boost :P

Start with a 6"x10" piece of cardboard. You'll need to remove the wategate and other accessories to do this so you can have the clearance and get the angles right. This picture I've removed the actuator and coolant lines and then reinstalled them over top.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs046.ash2/35650_1391996532121_1598373568_919847_3749838_n.jp g

From here cut down to size how you'd like. This is completely up to you. I found that this pattern fit best and looked the cleanest to me.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs086.snc4/35650_1392004012308_1598373568_919879_5125202_n.jp g

I then transfered to the steel sheet it was laying on. The template came out to be about a 7.5"x6" square that was then cut down to the desired shape.




Here's the bracket installed with the actuator installed (on the wrong side).


Here's the final product: (click for big ass picture)

I had to also modify the coolant hard lines and the top of the bracket. The coolant hard line bracket that originally bolted to the actuator would no longer bolt up due to the plate. I removed the hard line bracket, and notched the actuator bracket and it now sits perfectly and reconnected to the turbo without issues.

http://ourlewisfamily.net/gallery/../content/g1/Jasmine/normal_wastegate_bracket_done.JPG (http://ourlewisfamily.net/gallery/../content/g1/Jasmine/wastegate_bracket_done.JPG)

Most other clockers simply used a small brace that connected to another bolt hole over on the right of the pictures (closer to the actuator). The st215 housing however only has those two bolt holes; thus the need to make a thick bracket that wraps around. For added strength, something can be made that connects to one of the transmission starter bolts and then braces the bracket as well.

Happy boosting!

09-04-2010, 04:58 AM
this is awesome! failed at my first attempt at making a similar design.. metal was too thin, where do you get aluminum that thick? and how did you cut it? Mine now stays partially open at boost so I never get consistent boost as air ia leaking out the flapper door..

09-04-2010, 05:25 AM
Friends in high places :P

Not really. Neighbor works somewhere where they do a lot of metal work (cutting, welding, etc). They have TONS (I mean NET TONS) of scrap metal laying around. He took my template, grabbed a CNC, some aluminum stock, and cut it for me.

www.metalsdepot.com sells a 12"x12" piece of 1/4" aluminum for like 30bux. Sure you can just goto some home improvement store or any metal shop/welders shop and find some scrap stuff. I suggest using a bandsaw though. A hack saw would work, but take a while to cut.

09-04-2010, 04:25 PM
Good job Tim. :) I'll be making one in the near future too, I think I will also go with 1/4" AL.

09-04-2010, 07:18 PM
the 1/4, does it flex at all? or it is pretty much solid?

09-05-2010, 12:33 AM
It doesn't move at all on me.