View Full Version : Engine Woes

07-26-2010, 11:10 PM
Just pulling the engine apart, already noticing things wrong.

The cam caps are on in an incorrect order.

One cap is missing a bolt.

Will have pictures ti follow when i get home and can load them up.

In the mean time, whats the correct order for the cam caps? which way are the arrows supposed to be pointing?

I have *some* what looks like scoring, will have pics of this too.

07-26-2010, 11:56 PM
Arrows should be pointing toward the front of the engine (timing cover). They're numbered according to the cylinder.

07-26-2010, 11:57 PM
With cylinder 1 being closest to the cam gears or the dizzy?

07-26-2010, 11:59 PM
Cam Gears. That is the front of the engine.

07-27-2010, 12:08 AM
Initial Walk around of the engine:


Under the Vavle cover

The Cams:

Under the Cam Caps:

Up the Intake side starting at the Cam Gear

Exhaust Cam:

Closeup of the last cap:

Different Bolt lengths, Normal?

Are the different lengths of bolts normal?

Can the bolts on the Cam Caps be reused? im missing one, and will salvage it from my other engine if they can be.

Intake and exhaust manifold studs; can they be reused? Missing most of them on the "new" engine, and i will also steal these off the old motor if its not a problem.

Anyone see anything i may have missed?

07-27-2010, 12:08 AM
Also, in a couple of my pics you can see the Cam lobes are kinda rusty. Will this be an issue?

07-27-2010, 12:18 AM
The rust will be fine, it will go away once the engine fires.

If you are in doubt about how the engine is assembled, disassemble your old engine and compare.

Manifold and exhaust bolts are fine to reuse. Head bolts aren't, they stretch.

07-27-2010, 12:20 AM
yea i know about the head blots, and is the reason im trying to avoid taking the head off.

I have some engine assembly lube for the cams (or anything else that needs it) for when they go on.

07-27-2010, 12:24 AM
I'd also dig up the specs and plastigage the fuck out of those cam caps as well. That one missing the one bolt and and the last exhaust one look to have some pretty wicked scoring based on the pictures.

Like big sexy said, intake/exhaust studs are find to reuse. To be honest, I'd salvage the cam cap bolts or just buy new (they're fairly cheap).

07-27-2010, 12:47 AM
Yea, that was some of the scoring i was talking about.

I believe my other head should still be good. if worst comes to worst i can replace the head with the other.

07-27-2010, 03:30 AM
those cam cap bolts break fairly easy, just get new ones trust me i learned 1st hand. you may want to just reuse or old cams/cam caps or even the whole head.

did u just get this engine?

07-27-2010, 03:34 AM
Ive had this engine for 6months. just no where to work on it.

My dad finally broke my stepmom down and they are letting me work on it in their shed for a month.

Once i pull the old engine, i will check out the head and see which one looks better.

If it comes to it, where can i get a set of headbolts that arent 130 bucks.

The ARPs i found on ATS were rediculous. I found some on ebay for 30, but dont know how much i trust them.

07-27-2010, 04:38 AM
Ebay is where I bought mine.

You'll find main bolts and head bolts. Head bolts are the more expensive. You're looking about 120-140 depending on where you buy them from. The $30 ones are prolly the main bolts (as I think the main bolts I saw when shopping were like 50 bux).

07-27-2010, 02:52 PM
what kind of motor is it and where did you get it from?

I dont even want to know how the 4AFE in my celica is.

07-27-2010, 03:01 PM
That's a 3sge from a 86-89 Celica GTS.

07-27-2010, 05:15 PM
Tim is correct and I bought it from a guy who said it was rebuilt. Is there any way to check rod bearings without removing the crank?

07-27-2010, 06:58 PM
Flip the engine, pull the rod caps. You can leave the crank in.You won't be able to check the topside of the rods without some care.

07-27-2010, 07:08 PM
Alright. Any chance know where I can find torque specs on cam caps and rod caps?

07-27-2010, 07:34 PM
Do you have a Chilton's?

---------- Post added at 02:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:24 PM ----------

Bugger, I just typed them all out... Let me try again.

Cylinder Head Bolts: 38-42

Rod Bearings Bolts: 44-50

Main Bearing Bolts: 40-45

Crankshaft Pulley Bolt: 78-82

Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolt: 65

Manifold; Intake: 12-16 Exhaust: 30-34

07-27-2010, 08:00 PM
I have one, but it has seemed to walk off.

Thanks alot. i really appreciate it.

07-27-2010, 08:03 PM
Your phone. Answer it.

07-28-2010, 05:16 AM
hmm... engine looks fresh from the outside..

sir, if i may suggest, if you are to put that in your car, taking it apart now and see to it that it wont break on you when you use it..

coz having it like that will be easier for you than to put it in and taking it out again when something broke.. not to mention the cost and wasted time.. :D

07-28-2010, 06:45 PM
Thats exactally what im doing.

I just pulled off the pan and this is what i find.

Anyone see anything wrong?


On the bright side, the Pistons and Con rods are nice and shiny, which makes me believe it has been rebuilt.


---------- Post added at 05:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:44 PM ----------

Oh yeah, sorry for the shitty cell phone pics, i forgot my camera.

07-28-2010, 08:31 PM
3rd cylinder from the left (2nd from right) I see what looks like gouging on the block. Is this really the case or is it just some weird camera deal?

Also, I may just be imagining things, but to me it looks like the crank is jacked up too, because it looks like the middle two cylinders are set at the same interval (If the engine was running, they'd both be compressed at the same time). Is that also really the case?

EDIT: Then I notice the outer two look to have the same thing going on as the inner two. And what's the deal with the connecting rods on the far right cylinder?

Know what? Skrew it, i hate the way everything looks down there.

07-28-2010, 10:37 PM
I think the gouging is a camera trick. And yes cyl 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 are at the same position just opposite strokes. What I was refering to was all the way left I'm missing a piece for the rear main seal to go in. There is just a gap in the block. And here was no oil pickup. I'm very glad I tore the motor down and not just went on the guys word.

07-29-2010, 01:31 AM
I feel like pounding my own skull in for missing both of those items...

07-29-2010, 02:48 AM
Haha I didn't notice the RMS was missing until I was getting ready to bolt it back together.

And Tim he scori you were refering to on one of the caps isn't scoring. It was out of order and the lobe on the cam has a grove down the center so that is normal.

I'm going to check out block gouging when I'm over there next. Should be this weekend.