View Full Version : May be an alltrac owner.

07-24-2010, 03:19 PM
I was browsing craigslist and saw this a 1990 classic all trac celica.. Its red.

""Classic 1990 Toyota Celica turbo alltrac, 5 speed, 118K miles, ABS, PS, Sun Roof, AC, AM-FM cassette, Cruise control, Tilt steering wheel, Driver air bag, Power windows, Keyless entry, Alarm, Alloy wheels, EXCELLENT condition

the guy wants $5,000- I was thinking about offering $4,000 cash and see what he says. The interior and exterior are FLAWLESS, they have not one ding tear scratch nothing.. All stock.

What you guys think, good deal?

07-24-2010, 03:23 PM
pics ?

sounds good..

07-24-2010, 09:31 PM
It sounds like a good deal. Make sure you get under the car and check the underbody for rust when you take a look at the car in person.

I wonder if the seller is on any of the forums...

07-24-2010, 10:12 PM
Pretty good deal, but still treat it like any other used car man...check everything that you can.

Biggest thing to check is what she said /\ rust...specifically under body rust

Then of course test drive, listen for you whines, your knocks, etc.

Boost it once its warm, watch for blue smoke. etc

And if all is straight as an arrow, then 4K for such is a good deal!

also see if you can in there and do a compression test, a compression test tells you SO much! You get to know the life remaining in the motor, as well as you can see potential or existing issues, as well as you get to check the plugs. It tells you alot.

07-24-2010, 10:39 PM
Sounds like a good deal. Check what the others said. If the body is good and the interior is tear/rip free, it would be a good deal. It's rare to find one with a good driver's seat if it has any miles on it.

07-25-2010, 05:53 AM
Make sure to check for rust where the sway bars mount up.

SEEMS like a good deal.

07-25-2010, 06:57 PM
Yeah, I am going to check it out tomorrow, and hopefully if its all nice and what not try and beat him down to 4000 cash. He has no idea what the car is or what its worth, its an older guy, owned it since the lot, just a "fun" car he says. He doesn't know how rare they are or anything... He said he mantained it very well. I guess I shall see tomorrow, I'll let ya guys know.

07-26-2010, 01:57 AM
Just because he's an older guy doesn't mean he doesn't know what it's worth or what it is. I fall in that older guy category.:tongue_1:

07-26-2010, 03:04 AM
out of curiosity where in PA? and dont worry i wont buy it before you(honest i wont, low on funds)....and actually there are more older alltrac owners out there than there are younger, from what i have seen, the older gentlemen seem to actually know what they are, where as the people of my age(early twenties), they have no idea, and they would just buy a WRX instead...i dont mean to get on your case, just a friendly fyi :)

07-26-2010, 04:00 AM
Totally understandable. He inherited it and doesn't want it. I live in harisburg bou 2 hrs from reading. Not far. Maybe if I get this we can go cruzing. :) I'm pretty ezcited to check her out. Always wanted an st185. First thing to go is tmic if I get it lol

07-26-2010, 10:45 PM
If you get it, do all the necessary maintenance items first and then think about changing the intercooler. If everything else isn't up to snuff, a new intercooler isn't going to do much good.

Not being a smart ass, I just don't want you to fall into the "All Tracs are unreliable because I didn't do the necessary maintenance, ran the dog piss out of it and then it broke" camp.:nuts:

07-26-2010, 11:08 PM

I went and looked at it, this older lady owned the car, for 15 years, and put 100k miles on it, it was only her car- husband never drove it(doesnt know how to drive stick, hearing impaired), and she just bought a 2008 eclipse spyder, so anyways onto the car, I checked it out, and I looked under it.. A little spot of rust on the rocker panel, 2 inch spot.. Thats it nothing else. Exhaust new, turbo rebuilt at 70k with paper work, toyota rebuilt it,( thinking may be due for a new one soon?), anyways, started the car up, and heard a slight tick which was under the top mount intercooler which seemed to have went even more quiet after the car warmed up, I wasnt sure what that was, other than that car ran drove fine and shifted fine, clutch is fine, interior has no one scratch dent hole nothing! has every piece to interior and all, ( red on red)- One other thing I noticed which worried me a bit, was after I shifted, and eased back on the gas, the car made a clunk noise, from the rear end, not sure what that was, figured I would ask you guys on here. Any advice is much appreciated.

BTW, i offered $3,500 and they said they wanted $3,800 and I went on and said rust was bad and it made a clunk sound, so they said think about it and call us on friday, they said $3,500 would work for them.

What do you guys think, any ideas what the noises are?

07-26-2010, 11:55 PM
If you are looking to dumb a ton of money into a car then sure a st185 is what you want!

If its a PA car look at the rear cradle see if there is any rust along the rear cradle, did you check to see if under the floor mats there is any rust?

07-26-2010, 11:58 PM
There wasn't much rust there, there was a little, which I can fix easily in an hr or two, and also yes, I looked under them- no rust. Solid body.

07-27-2010, 12:04 AM
that clunk noise is from the 4x4 system i think...heard some ppl abou the same prob...and like you said...it was somewere from behind.

07-27-2010, 01:06 AM
Hmm, pricey fix then? or something along the lines of switching off rear diff?

07-27-2010, 01:49 AM
The clunking from the rear is most likely the rubber rear diff mount. It goes on the back of the diff and bolts to the rear subframe. Those things are prone to dry rot and tear after awhile. Not a big deal. You can replace it with the OEM one, I think it's around $180 or so from Toyota. It might be more. Or you can get a solid mount and be done with it. Mine had been replaced with a solid aluminum one. It works great. You get some noise from the diff with a solid mount that the rubber one prevents but you don't have to worry about replacing the rubber one again. You have to drop the diff but not a big deal. You take out the rear crossmember, the four bottom bolts and the rear bolts that hold the mount in. Granted the bolts could be a slight bitch to get loose but not a bad job. I swapped the diff out in mine for a torsen in about 2 hours so and that with contrary bolts.

If the turbo was rebuilt at 70,000 by Toyota and it's got 100,000 on it, your good for a while as long as you don't have any smoke. If you can get it for $3500, I'd say do it. That's a good deal.

07-27-2010, 02:38 AM
Yeah, it wasn't smoking, no smoke at all, ran nice, temp was fine, boost felt fine.. Any idea about the ticking in the front of the car tho? Thats what worried me most.

Also just for some background, what psi is the st185's turbo set to? And what can it handle safley stock?

07-27-2010, 03:14 AM
From what I've read, a 185 normal runs 8-9 psi of boost stock. I know that's what mind was at before I put the manual boost controller on it. I've been running mine at 13 psi for a couple of years now with no problem. I don't beat the hell out of it and have maxed out all the time but it regulary sees 8-11. You've just got to be sure that you run good gas, the knock sensor works and make sure the maintenance items are done.

07-27-2010, 03:25 AM
Any idea about the ticking in the front of the car tho?

could just be fuel injectors opening/closing, you prolly know what injectors sound like though? maybe exhaust leak? or needs valve adjustment? hard to say without actualy hearing and seeing. none of those things are major.

GL makin a deal :beerchug:

07-27-2010, 03:32 AM
Never heard of a injector opening and closing.. maybe i am just a tard, but does this happen on all cars N/A and turbo? Or just turbo? Not an exhaust leak by the sound, valve adjust maybe. I will further inspect it when I get it, don't wanna tear it apart in front of these people haha.

And yeah, I am very excited, they said they will take $3,500- so I guess I am going to pick her up friday.

I am deffinatley going to check the diff mount tho, is it on the center rear of the diff towards the bumper?

07-27-2010, 03:40 AM
Never heard of a injector opening and closing.. maybe i am just a tard, but does this happen on all cars N/A and turbo?

when injectors operate you can hear the soleniod clicking, it's normal.

07-27-2010, 03:49 AM
But loud enough to be hear from 15 feet away? So your saying its nothing to really worry about, I mean I know where the injectors are, I will try and see if I can pin point it to the fuel rail if not idk.

07-27-2010, 04:10 AM
Diff mount is in the very back of the differential. It's in front of the gas tank. There are two bolt heads you'll be able to see in the middle. This is were the mount bolts to the diff housing.

07-27-2010, 04:38 AM
Will I visually be able to see the rubber piece your talking about without a jack just peeking up there?

07-27-2010, 05:21 AM
Will I visually be able to see the rubber piece your talking about without a jack just peeking up there?

You might be able to...look from the passenger side by the exhaust so the gas tank is not blocking your line of sight.

The ticking is more likely than not valve tick, and that is just common on older Toyotas.

But $3,500 on a running Alltrac with minimal rust is a steal. This just seems to have fallen into your lap at the right time.

Fox 21 Alpha
07-27-2010, 05:42 AM
Seems like a good deal. Thats about what I paid for mine with more rust and needing a turbo rebuild (and now a clutch).

I'd def pick that up (As in let me know if you don't I'll be there in a minute lol, thats a lot closer then Cali).

Anyways looks like you'll be number 4 or 5 in PA lol

07-27-2010, 12:50 PM
Yeah its pretty much a done deal. I feel I made a wise choice. It ran and idled fine. First time I drove one I've been driving around a 92gt but when I drove that alltrac and felt the turbo kick on it made me smile like a little kid. It. Handles like a dream and yeah the car gets up and moves like a monster. Ill check it out from the passenger side. Thanks for all your help guys. And I know I've never seen any in pa.

07-27-2010, 01:45 PM
i suggest a flash light too to see it, its not hard to miss. and if you can not find it, i can prob find a pic for ya.

07-27-2010, 03:38 PM
that ticking sound is an exhaust leak i think...because you said when the engine is warm...its gone.

i got the same...a small leak in the manifold somewere...but when the engine is warm...the ticking sound is gone.

btw, got some pics?

07-27-2010, 05:17 PM
Hmm Ill have to check that will be hundreds of pictures on Friday I'm sure :) stay tuned

07-27-2010, 05:56 PM
does it sound someting like this ?


but the ticking sounds on idle also...

07-27-2010, 06:15 PM
Hmm Ill have to check that will be hundreds of pictures on Friday I'm sure :) stay tuned

---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------

Ill have to check it out when I get it. And not at this time. Will have hundreds on Friday! Just stay posted.

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:03 PM ----------

Damnit sorry on my phone and didn't know it posted. And mine kinda sounds like that I think hard to tell with video but mines faster like tickticktickticktick not tick....tick...tick

07-27-2010, 09:30 PM
hmmm...try to make a video...maybe some ppl here could know what it is exactly.

07-27-2010, 11:12 PM
You'll have to slide back under the gas tank and look between the gas tank and rear crandle. It's going to be a little difficult to see. I would bet that given the age this is the problem.

07-28-2010, 12:16 AM
I will make a video after I purchase it when its sitting in MY driveway, hehe. And alright thanks for all the pointers, I will deffinatley check that spot out- the said they never had it replaced so that could very well be the culprit.

07-28-2010, 02:04 AM
If it's never been replaced I would pretty much guarantee that's the problem. It's very common.

07-28-2010, 02:35 AM
Roughly how often do they go out, because if its every 20 years then I think I may just get an OEM one haha.

07-28-2010, 04:00 AM
They don't go every couple of years. It's pretty much age that takes them out. The OEM one would be fine. From what I understand the main reason people go with solid a lot of the time is price. The one from Toyota is supposed to be pretty pricey from what I've heard but it will work fine.

I don't know if there is anything posted about the rear diff mount here or not but I know there are thread over at Alltrac.net.

07-28-2010, 05:06 AM
Depending on the condition, can't you just fill it?

07-28-2010, 11:17 PM
You can do the poly fill if its not torn up too bad. This one sounds like it might be past that point but it's something you could look at. I know there are posts at Alltrac.net about doing that too.

07-30-2010, 03:56 AM
Update needed. Did you pick it up already? If not you must be crazy! Get it!

07-30-2010, 05:55 AM
I think he's getting it tomorrow from what I read

07-30-2010, 06:32 AM
The ticking is more likely than not valve tick

This sounds the most likely to me, also.

07-30-2010, 08:03 PM
It's Friday, where are the promised hundreds of pics :P Have you picked the car up yet?

08-19-2010, 04:53 AM
replace all the hoses from the maf to the turbo, they are likely dry rotted. check that the valve cover screws are down, they work themselves free after a while. RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE IS YOUR FRIEND. just be nice to it

08-19-2010, 05:20 AM
Bring a magnet and check along wheel wells and rocker panels. Bondo is cheap to hide a nasty cancer.

08-19-2010, 05:32 AM
must be busy enjoying it, too bad im not in harrisburg anymore.