View Full Version : Working on the 162

07-18-2010, 02:19 AM
Im getting ready to start working on the GTS again.

First off will be checking the "rebuilt" motor to ensure it was rebuilt and to relube it.
Ive never had a motor down any farther than longblock so what do i need to look for? Im going to start reading the BGB after i post this.

Then i have to swap the motor. Done this a time or two, but never by myself.

Any Advice?

07-18-2010, 02:50 AM
Mark all connections/bolts, have fun, take your time.

07-18-2010, 02:53 AM
Any idea on what i need to do for tearing the block down?

07-18-2010, 04:12 AM
How far? If it's a rebuild/reman'd block I wouldn't worry about tearing it down to far. I'd prolly do the oil pan and stuff like that, but wouldn't worry about the other stuff to be honest.

But once the oil pan's off, you should be able to pop a few bolts and lift out the crank shaft/rods/pistons all together (or separate if you pull the main bolts off).

07-18-2010, 04:29 AM
I bought it off CL and the guy claimed it was rebuilt but had no proof. And it has been sitting for 3 years. So a the least I need to put some assembly lube in there. I'm prolly gonna pull the oil pan and and maybe the head. Will lubing the was of the cylinder be enough or should I pull the pistons and lube everything?

07-18-2010, 04:33 AM
Hey Aaron! Glad to see that you're trying to the Celica going.

If you're concerned about whether or not it was actually rebuilt or not, I'd pull the oil pan and the cam covers and see what everything looks like. You should be able to tell if the work had been done. Unless something looks amiss, I don't think I'd pull the pistons. See what the timing belt and set up looks like. If everything looks good, I'd make sure the top and bottom end are lubricated and go from there.

Good luck. Keep us posted on how things are going.

07-18-2010, 04:40 AM
Will do. There is no t belt installed but it came with one nib.

My stepmom is giving me a month to do it so I gotta work fast so I will prolly have lots of questions. So basically just lube it up from top and bottom of pistons and be done with it? I know the cams will need it also.

07-18-2010, 03:42 PM
If everything looks good and like it has been overhauled, that's what I'd do. What you're going to get into if you tear it down is replacing the head gasket, the head bolts (really shouldn't be retorqued), you'll need to plasigauge the crank caps to make sure that everything torques back down right. A lot of work and cost that you really might not need to do.

07-18-2010, 08:11 PM
Well it also sat uncovered for a couple years, how can i ensure nothing is living in the cylinders without removing the head?

07-18-2010, 09:03 PM
Pull the plugs and take a look. If there is anything of much substance, you should be able to see it. Use a small flash light to shine down in there.

07-19-2010, 12:39 AM
Got a stand today, still looking for a hoist.

Started working on the old engine. got the airbox, the rad, and a few electrical connections out of the way.

Tomorrow should have a good few hours to work. Hopefully will have the harness out of the way completely. I hope it doesnt rain.

Should be ready to pull it by the end of the week.

07-19-2010, 05:51 PM
Keep us posted!

07-20-2010, 06:34 PM
Got to the point of pulling the harness today, although to make it go smoothly you need two people.

Tomorrow assuming i dont have jury duty im going to pull the axels.

07-20-2010, 06:49 PM
Why don't you just remove the harness from the ECU and out from the firewall? Makes it tons easier to remove it from there instead of the engine while it's installed.

07-20-2010, 07:29 PM
I didn't know I could do that.

Where is the ecu on the 162? And which plug is the engine harness?

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------

Also, i rememberes a couple of my injector connectors were partially broken, any way i can order new ones? Or should i just use them as is?