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Physlis
07-02-2010, 06:02 AM
So got a few questions for you guys. I'm doing my suspension upgrade this weekend and made some decent headway; car up on jacks, wheels off, brakes off...well, mostly.

I'm having a few specific problems:

1) both the driver side/front and passenger side/rear rotor refuse to let go
2) all 4 brake lines won't let go (where the hardlines and softlines join)
3) various bolts/nuts are frozen in place.

I've been hitting everything with penetrating oil and a rubber mallet at times, yet nothing wants to give. Any ideas how I can get the rotors off? The brake lines are my other major concern since I already cut one to try and ease the coilover removal and I've pretty much rounded them all off.

I know posting like this is kind of a newb thing, but I have to have my car back off jackstands by saturday afternoon so I can get another car up for a co-worker. I figure once I get the brakelines off and the discs off, everything else is just a matter of more oil and a bigger hammer.

Grot
07-02-2010, 06:04 AM
Blowtorch is an option. Heat may get hem to let go.

joe's gt
07-02-2010, 06:16 AM
1. I used a rubber mallet. Don't know if that's the right thing to do but it worked. If you don't got one, a hammer and block of wood would serve the same purpose.

2. USE A LINE WRENCH!!! Do not use anything else. Hit it with penetrating oil. Google line wrench if you don't know what it looks like. Its an enclosed wrench end with a slit in it to slip the brake line through.

3. If you don't got an impact, find something to slip over the handle of the ratchet to get more torque. Be very careful to keep the socket fully on the nut or bolt tho so you don't round it off.

Bolts and nuts are based on moments. The larger the moment, the better chance it has of loosening. Moment = Force x arm length. When you increase the arm length (put something over the ratchet handle) with force staying the same, you increase the moment, and have a better chance of breaking it loose. But again, the socket has a chance of slipping off the nut or bolt head when you increase the arm length, so its important to keep it centered.

Physlis
07-02-2010, 06:27 AM
Don't got a blowtorch, but mixing me w/fire usually ends badly. I like watching things burn, lol.


1. I used a rubber mallet. Don't know if that's the right thing to do but it worked. If you don't got one, a hammer and block of wood would serve the same purpose.

2. USE A LINE WRENCH!!! Do not use anything else. Hit it with penetrating oil. Google line wrench if you don't know what it looks like. Its an enclosed wrench end with a slit in it to slip the brake line through.

3. If you don't got an impact, find something to slip over the handle of the ratchet to get more torque. Be very careful to keep the socket fully on the nut or bolt tho so you don't round it off.

Bolts and nuts are based on moments. The larger the moment, the better chance it has of loosening. Moment = Force x arm length. When you increase the arm length (put something over the ratchet handle) with force staying the same, you increase the moment, and have a better chance of breaking it loose. But again, the socket has a chance of slipping off the nut or bolt head when you increase the arm length, so its important to keep it centered.

Cool, I'll see if I can't pick up a line wrench at wal-mart or something, everything else is closed at this hour. For the stuck nuts/bolts I can get a bigger breaker bar, that should help there.

Any idea on the rotors? It's almost like they decided to fuse to the hubs. I've been hitting them hardest with the pen. oil on and off for a few hours now.

85gtsblackman
07-02-2010, 07:25 AM
go to ace hardware and get some serivice bolts that go into the threaded holes on the rotor

i forgot the size and pitch but its listed on the site somewhere, i think shadow knows em

4thgenceli
07-02-2010, 08:45 AM
Think they're just M8x1.25 bolts.

I ended up having to use Vice grips to break loose my feed gas line, that's an option (I used oil & 2 vice grips and got it loose).

Physlis
07-02-2010, 08:50 AM
Unfortunately, my rotors don't have threaded holes in them. I'll see if I can get some pics up to give y'all an idea of what I'm lookin' at.

4thgenceli
07-02-2010, 08:51 AM
Unfortunately, my rotors don't have threaded holes in them. I'll see if I can get some pics up to give y'all an idea of what I'm lookin' at.
That's odd. Every brake rotor I've worked on has service holes you can thread bolts into to break off the hub.

Are you planning on turning the rotors, or replacing them? If you're replacing them, I say give it hell with a 25lb sledge.

Physlis
07-02-2010, 11:22 AM
I hadn't even thought of turning them, I just wanted to do a good once-over b/c they were squealing like hell. They are getting a bit rusty around the hats and edges, maybe I should just get new ones.

joe's gt
07-02-2010, 07:12 PM
When you get them off just take them to an auto parts store or machine shop that turns rotors and they'll measure their thickness and tell you if they can turn the rotors down or not.

Physlis
07-03-2010, 03:09 AM
Ok, got most of the brakelines off, even with the line wrench I still rounded off the driver front hardline nut. Since it's already round I tried vise-grips with no luck. Rotors are still stuck too. Any more ideas?

celica9303
07-03-2010, 04:16 AM
Smack the hub(where the studs are) but dont hit the stud with the hammer. Rotate repet and so on.

Physlis
07-03-2010, 10:20 AM
I appreciate the input guys, my suspension is almost done!

Not wanting to start a new thread, got another question:
My ST swaybar didn't come with the grease I need to put in the bushings. What kind of grease should I use?

Galcobar
07-03-2010, 10:54 AM
The usual recommendation is white lithium, but it's hard to find the version which does not contain petroleum distillates -- and you want to avoid those as they break down rubber.