View Full Version : Wastegate bracket fabrication

06-17-2010, 05:17 PM
I'm about to head down to the metal shop to use the plasma cutter and play around.

Is there an ideal thickness of sheet metal to use? I'm thinking between 1/16th and 1/4" sheet metal. Too thick of a plate would cause the WGA to not reach the WG lever, and to thin would leave it weak and it'd flex when it tries to open the wastegate.

I think that 1/8th would be the max I want to go, 1/16th looks to be the ideal size (based upon how it sits). The st215 housing is different than the 165/185, and only has two bolt holes, not 3. I can't use a straight piece of metal between the housing and starter bolt, so I'm going to cut a piece that (sniff) covers mostof the TOYOTA and front of the compressor housing

joe's gt
06-17-2010, 07:03 PM
1/8" sounds good to me, but I've never made one :) You using steel or aluminum? Steel would be stiffer, but harder to cut. But since your using plasma, it shouldn't matter.

06-17-2010, 08:07 PM
Id recommend aluminum for that. The turbo housing is aluminum. Its lighter too. And it wont rust out.

06-17-2010, 08:33 PM
I'd go Stainless Steel. :D

Get a feel for different thicknesses, see if you are able to flex it by yourself. If you can, that's a good indication that it would flex when pushed against by the WG actuator.

06-18-2010, 01:09 AM
Being in AZ I'm not 'too' worried about rust. If I do go with a steel, I would eventually get it powdercoated.

The plate will be about a 5"x5" square, cut to fit like this.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs046.ash2/35650_1391996532121_1598373568_919847_3749838_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs086.snc4/35650_1392004012308_1598373568_919879_5125202_n.jp g

The aluminum it's sitting on is a 12"x24" sheet (for size comparison).

06-22-2010, 02:44 AM

that stupid little C clip that holds the actuator to the wastegate, is that really necessary? I don't see the thing moving in that direction much at all.

06-27-2010, 08:15 AM
Another update, 16gauge steel is not thick enough. Maybe if it's doubled or tripled up it would work, but just 1 piece of 16gauge flexes too much.

Buddy's cutting the template out of 1/4" aluminum stock Monday.

06-27-2010, 03:42 PM
wow, 1/4"?
why not 1/8th" i'd think that'd be plenty..
and yea, the c-clip holds the arm on...it would prolly eventually wiggle its way off without it.

joe's gt
06-27-2010, 07:05 PM
Actually I would imagine 1/8" aluminum would flex too much. Stainless steel wouldn't tho.

07-06-2010, 02:57 AM
My neighbor's shop deals with Aluminum only..so it was free & available :P

07-06-2010, 06:51 AM
Hey adding ribes of metal in strategic spots can make metal stronger. Then you have aluminum polished that looks good.

07-06-2010, 12:55 PM
That looks exactly like the bracket I made when i clocked my CT20b, I used thicker metal and it still flexed, you have to make some sort of arm to hold the top part to one of the bolts on the engine, i have't done it yet but I know my car wont sustain boost for long coz the WG is a little open. Its also a bitch to sdjust the arm once you clock, try and get and adjustable fitting on the end that connects to the flapper door from the wg arm. Let me know how it goes.

Adjustable arm.

Im going to end up mounting it to the starter bracket and making a new bracket.

07-06-2010, 09:40 PM
you need the c clip, but a body clip works just as good.