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View Full Version : what kind of turbo timer are you running?



lalojamesliz
05-20-2010, 12:45 PM
im getting tired of waiting in my all-trac for the turbo to cool so i guess its time to buy one (finally :) )what do you guys recomend?

Mafix
05-20-2010, 01:18 PM
i'm using a blitz FATTDC. never had any issues with it. in fact it does things that i can't understand how it knows them.

4thgenceli
05-20-2010, 01:22 PM
I have an old greddy I'm gonna use. Bought it who knows when..

Boycott!Swagger
05-20-2010, 05:33 PM
im using a greddy one, its simple and effective, no problems with it either

BabyBear
05-20-2010, 05:58 PM
I have an old HKS turbo timer. Its been a decent unit.

Sang
05-20-2010, 06:17 PM
I have a Blitz D-TT. I rarely use it for it's purpose...but I bought it for dirt cheap. Mainly use it to display boost with peak boost recall.

Siyx
05-20-2010, 06:23 PM
Mine is built into my car alarm and is settable for 1,2, and 4 minutes. I have mine set for 2 minutes. Its a Compustar 2W9000FMR (Canadian version)

Luni
05-20-2010, 07:39 PM
I had a Blitz DTT in my MR2 as well, loved its boost gauge feature. Accurate as nuts.

Ill prolly get another one.

Tecker184
05-20-2010, 07:44 PM
i have an HKS type-1 i love the auto feature. Just tap into the rpm signal and it will set the time based off rpm.

Shadowlife25
05-20-2010, 08:25 PM
i have an HKS type-1 i love the auto feature. Just tap into the rpm signal and it will set the time based off rpm.

Same one I have and I love it. Simple and just works.

acidice333
05-20-2010, 08:27 PM
I'm using my Viper 791XV car alarm.

One of its features is having a timed turbo timer.

vangls14
05-20-2010, 09:19 PM
If you're just looking for the turbo timer function, just get whatever is cheapest. It's not like having an HKS vs GReddy is gonna make a difference. All it does is turns off the car when you need it to.

FWIW, had an old GReddy unit in my MR2. It did its job.

Smaay
05-20-2010, 09:39 PM
ok wait a second here. are you driving the car like a race car 100% of the time? if that answer is no, then you dont need a turbo timer. regular driving does not require a cool down. i dont have a TT on any of my turbo cars. lets take the supra for example. its making over 700HP and i do a 1/4 mile pass at the strip. there is nothing more strssful than that. so i finish my pass, i have about a 1/2 mile trip down the return path to the ticket booth to get my time slip. then another 1/2 mile through the parking lot to my pit area. by the time i make it back to my pit, the car is cooled down enough. you only need a TT if you are hammer down hammer down hammer down then shut the car off.

klapa
05-20-2010, 09:50 PM
Well - I didn't even know what a turbo timer was until Tuesday when I bought my Alltrac.

it's advertised as a "pivot full turbo timer" - don't know if "pivot" is the name or not.

I do know how it works somewhat - it has a manual button where it'll keep running for whatever the manual time is set for - and an automatic mode that changes the time based on driving - which parameters are monitored I don't yet know, but on the way home I could see the time increase the few time I layed into it a little. As it was I didn't put my foot in it much because I don't know what's going with the car yet and I didn't have license plates either.

It's mounted on the steering column.

Sang
05-20-2010, 10:45 PM
its making over 700HP and i do a 1/4 mile pass at the strip. there is nothing more strssful than that.

It isn't about "stress", it's about heat. Contrary to popular belief...you generate more heat at higher speed cruising (say on the interstate) as opposed to some quick boost pulls. My manifold/turbine would be pretty hot after a 1/4, but nothing like it would be from getting off the highway after cruising at 4K rpms for an hour or two.

But like I said, I rare use my TT for it's intended purpose. Only time I ever use it is after I make the 1.5 hour trip tampa to gainesville. All other times i'll let it idle for 15-20 seconds which is about the time it takes me to get all my shit together before jumping out the car.

lalojamesliz
05-21-2010, 01:06 PM
thanks guys for the reviews so far. i dont drive it like a race car but i do drive in a hurry a few times when im running late going to work or home to switch off with the wife for her to leave to work. i have used my temp gun on the hot side of my turbo many times and when i do drive fast it has been over 1000f degrees! my temp gun maxes out at 1000 f. but when i drive slow or with traffic it would be between 6-800f degrees. sometimes ill let it cool when its above 900 down to mid 700's but it takes forever and im just fed up with waiting thats why i want a TT. nothing fancy just a reliable one.

T-spoon
05-21-2010, 03:59 PM
Annnnd, there's some kind of good reason NOT to have a timer running the cooldown? Why is a TT being argued against exactly?

Never even mind the shutdown (which is still a good idea), but having the timer to warm the car up to OT is very helpful. I don't want to sit in the car twiddling my thumbs. I like being able to hop in and go right away. I also like to be able to leave it running if I have to pop into a store or something for less than 10 minutes instead of short drive - shutdown - startup- short drive, etc.

So again, for a 1-time ~$100 or less item, why not? In any event, I've used a few different units (there's an HKS in the 'trac now from previous owner) and the Apex'i is the one I like the best. Simple, effective, doesn't take up a lot of dash space.

donteatbugs
05-21-2010, 06:49 PM
i use the valet keyless entry. remote start and turbo timer feature built in ftw

vangls14
05-21-2010, 07:10 PM
Make sure your ebrake works well.

Turbo timer + weak parking brake = epic fail.

My MR2 came with the factory installed option of a POS parking brake so a TT was pretty useless. I'd have to wait for the turbocharger to cool, shut down, and park the car in gear.

Luni
05-21-2010, 07:36 PM
Yeah, crusing in closed state 14.7 AFRs generates more heat than a full boost pull.


The way I see it, turbo timers dont HURT anything. I do think most people run their timers too long, usually 10-15 seconds after is sufficient.

Sang
05-21-2010, 09:48 PM
Annnnd, there's some kind of good reason NOT to have a timer running the cooldown? Why is a TT being argued against exactly?

It's just not needed unless you want the whiz bang features. No one has said you shouldn't buy one.


Never even mind the shutdown (which is still a good idea), but having the timer to warm the car up to OT is very helpful. I don't want to sit in the car twiddling my thumbs.

Most people conform to driving the car easy rather than sitting at idle doing nothing until it reaches temp.

I bought mine brand new for $45-50...given a choice to buy one at market value or to skip it, i'll skip it.

joe's gt
05-22-2010, 01:23 AM
My 791xv has a turbo timer? Wow, now I feel like the biggest idiot in the world for buying an HKS tt. Oh well, the tt only cost $12.

T-spoon
05-22-2010, 02:32 AM
It's just not needed unless you want the whiz bang features. No one has said you shouldn't buy one.



Most people conform to driving the car easy rather than sitting at idle doing nothing until it reaches temp.

I bought mine brand new for $45-50...given a choice to buy one at market value or to skip it, i'll skip it.

Sure, that's reasonable. I very much doubt that most people with turbo cars will actually conform to driving the car easy, however. They might make the decision in order to save money, but it actually happening with MOST people once they get in the car... very.. very doubtful ;) My whole point is simply that if someone says, "I don't want to sit and wait on either end of my trip I'm getting a timer" then that is a totally reasonable response, and frankly, it's probably a more realistic response for most people than, "I'll just be good and always warm up and cooldown"

Sang
05-22-2010, 02:49 AM
I very much doubt that most people with turbo cars will actually conform to driving the car easy, however. They might make the decision in order to save money, but it actually happening with MOST people once they get in the car... very.. very doubtful ;)

Driving the car easy all the time, and driving easy until it reaches operating temp is two entirely different things, however. I never boost on a cold engine, but I do drive off after idling for a few seconds on a cold start. Once it's warm, I most definitely boost around time given the opportunity. I find the car warms up MUCH quicker with easy driving rather than idling.

Blackcloud
05-22-2010, 04:03 AM
im confused about why one is needed myself too. I hit 1700deg on wot runs and if i just let the thing sit there and idle for like 30 seconds the EGTs pre-turbo are in the low 300s

and i look at it like sweating a plumbing pipe. if your trying to do it and there is water in the pipe you will never get your pipe hot enough to sweat it. im pretty sure the same goes for your turbo. as long as there is liquid in there, the heat should do its thing and disipate

T-spoon
05-22-2010, 07:18 AM
im confused about why one is needed myself too. I hit 1700deg on wot runs and if i just let the thing sit there and idle for like 30 seconds the EGTs pre-turbo are in the low 300s

and i look at it like sweating a plumbing pipe. if your trying to do it and there is water in the pipe you will never get your pipe hot enough to sweat it. im pretty sure the same goes for your turbo. as long as there is liquid in there, the heat should do its thing and disipate

It's to keep the oil from singeing and coking inside the turbo AFAIK. If it weren't a concern, it wouldn't be required/recommended by manufacturers from cars all the way to turbo-charged aircraft engines.

vangls14
05-22-2010, 05:09 PM
It's to keep the oil from singeing and coking inside the turbo AFAIK. If it weren't a concern, it wouldn't be required/recommended by manufacturers from cars all the way to turbo-charged aircraft engines.

Ding ding. It amazes me how many people who own turbocharged cars do not know this.

Blackcloud
05-22-2010, 05:12 PM
well i know what its for.

i dont know about gas applications. but i know on my truck i idle at about 290deg pre turbo, i can go wot and by the time i get stopped the temps are back down to like the 375ish range. to me thats not very hot.

*edit*

i remember Luni riding in my truck with me and amazed how low my egts were and such.. so i guess its not so much confusion with me buck lack of knowledge of gas turbo applications.. so how hot are your engines running?

T-spoon
05-22-2010, 05:31 PM
Hmmm, I'm trying to recall EGT temps (I don't have a gauge on the Alltrac, I just know the hood steams like crazy when it's raining ;) ) .. and I really can't. Your idle temps do sound pretty low, I THINK the EGTs from the MR2s and Supra were considerably higher than that, like 800ish idle with a higher speed cruise and a WoT run being pretty similarly in the 1600 range. I could be totally remembering wrong though.

lalojamesliz
05-22-2010, 05:43 PM
hey Blackcloud (torque monster) i dont know because i dont have a egt guage but im getting tempted to buy one now :( the main reason i want a TT is to keep my ct20b (ct26-2 marco :)) in good condition on the inside since they are not so cheap and if i ever sold it. i really like the the features of the earlier mentioned hks type-1 guys. i really like auto feature.

T-spoon
05-22-2010, 05:51 PM
hey Blackcloud (torque monster) i dont know because i dont have a egt guage but im getting tempted to buy one now :( the main reason i want a TT is to keep my ct20b (ct26-2 marco :)) in good condition on the inside since they are not so cheap and if i ever sold it. i really like the the features of the earlier mentioned hks type-1 guys. i really like auto feature.

Heh, you know.. as handy as I think TT are.. I'd recommend the EGT gauge for a non stock car even more. As some have said, you CAN make yourself wait, but there's no way to really know what your EGTs are doing without a gauge..

klapa
05-22-2010, 06:07 PM
When I get a chance I'm going to make some measurements at work.

We do LED lighting and always must measure thermals on our products cuz the HB LEDs really put out allot of heat and the main design criteria for the LED PCB is good heat conduction to the heat sink.

We just bought a really fancy thermal imaging scope. It's made by Fluke and cost $8k. All you do is point it and it will give an image and you can just move a cursor around to get the temp.

It would be helpful to know the places to look and I can post up some images of my car anyway.

BTW - a very educational thread - I thought the danger of shutting down with a hot turbo was that because the turbo housing is cast iron, the sudden change of temp might crack the housing.

joe's gt
05-22-2010, 07:14 PM
To me, this thread currently seems like a grey area on what conditions will actually cause oil cooking. Anyone done any research or a have a good link on what driving conditions will actually cause it?

eh, i don't see why not to have one for the piece of mind cuz there doesn't seem to be a general consensus on what conditions actually cause oil cooking.

Shadowlife25
05-23-2010, 03:28 AM
Coking. Oil coking. ;)

karl
05-24-2010, 06:36 PM
My mr2 came with a timer. I took it out and sold it.

They are a waste of money, period. Here's why:

1. Newer synthetic oils don't coke like their older, conventional counterparts.

2. Turbos are not as fragile as people think.

3. The last 30 seconds of any trip is typically low enough speed to allow the turbo to slow before the oil suipply is cut off.

4. The temp delta of the center section of the turbo is not really significant until about 10 minutes after the engine has stopped.

5. Watercooled turbos circulate coolant through the center section via convection/localized boiling. That's the bubbling you hear when you turn off a stock ct26 car.

6. I don't know about you guys, but I absolutely do not have any expectations of my turbo to go 150k before a rebuild. If it does last that long, it means I'm not having enough fun with the car. IMHO, anyone with a modded car should consider the turbo to be a moderate consumable/repair item.

Shadowlife25
05-25-2010, 12:19 AM
While I agree with the majority of your statements Karl, I have to respectfully disagree.

Not everyone uses synthetic oils due to choice or monetary limitations. ( I know, no pay no play ;))

While a turbine IS honestly a wear item, many do not push them hard enough even under stock conditions to need a replacement very often.
Most actually only end up changing them due to the desire for additional power potential.

On the AllTrac, specifically, there is an advisory warning on the driver visor.
It states that the car should always be run for a minimum of 30 seconds after driving.
More (up to 2 minutes) if the trip involved hills or heavy engine loads.
Now, compound this with the fact that most have a boost controller of some sort and it becomes both a convenience and a necessity.

Most of all though, it is the convenience factor that comes into play.
I for one, had no problem with running the car for a time after any driving.
When it became our only car and I was not the only one driving it, I got a timer for peace of mind.
This went to ensure that the car would have the proper shut down/cool down procedure every time, even if I wasn't the one driving.

There are reasons for it, but as I stated many are simply convenience. :)

Blackcloud
05-25-2010, 12:41 AM
Not everyone uses synthetic oils due to choice or monetary limitations. ( I know, no pay no play ;))

pussys. i run synthetics.. 3 fucking gallons of it.. :owned: :laugh:

Sang
05-25-2010, 12:50 AM
6. I don't know about you guys, but I absolutely do not have any expectations of my turbo to go 150k before a rebuild. If it does last that long, it means I'm not having enough fun with the car. IMHO, anyone with a modded car should consider the turbo to be a moderate consumable/repair item.

I wish I had taken pics of my air cooled MHI turbo when I did a rebuild. As I mentioned before, I don't even use the TT and was fully expecting to see charred/coked oil when I took it apart but the oil shields/deflector/et cetera was pretty damn clean. Honestly, if I were running the wet chra I wouldn't give two shits about having a TT in the car. If it weren't for the boost read feature on my blitz I wouldn't have a TT anymore.

karl
05-25-2010, 02:57 PM
While I agree with the majority of your statements Karl, I have to respectfully disagree.

Not everyone uses synthetic oils due to choice or monetary limitations. ( I know, no pay no play ;))

true. i have conventional castrol in my car at the moment :D i ran the cheap stuff after i took the oil pan off to clean it out. even todays conventional oils are better than they used to be.


On the AllTrac, specifically, there is an advisory warning on the driver visor.
It states that the car should always be run for a minimum of 30 seconds after driving.
More (up to 2 minutes) if the trip involved hills or heavy engine loads.
Now, compound this with the fact that most have a boost controller of some sort and it becomes both a convenience and a necessity.



MR2 has the same warnings on the visors. as i said though, i've really never been in a situation where the last 30 seconds of my drive were fast and furious enough to warrant one.

when i was debating removing it, i mentally catalogged my trips for a week or so, and i found that either i was driving slowly the last 2 blocks to my house (since it's a neighborhood) or driving through a parking lot to find a spot at my destination.

i can see your points though. it's certainly not going to HURT anything. i just don't find it worth spending the $ on.

zen
05-25-2010, 06:34 PM
wow, im suprised no one is running the apex i turbo timer. i guess im the only one lols. one feature i like about the apexi turbo timer is that is has an afr option where it displays your afr's. afr's are displayed with the factory O2 sensor. also it has auto timer and manual settings for timing. another plus is that it is pen size so you can fit it in tight spaces, there is a relay box you have to hide somewhere. another good thing about it too is that it displays voltage, O2 voltage, afr, and timer though an led screen.

T-spoon
05-25-2010, 07:16 PM
wow, im suprised no one is running the apex i turbo timer. i guess im the only one lols. one feature i like about the apexi turbo timer is that is has an afr option where it displays your afr's. afr's are displayed with the factory O2 sensor. also it has auto timer and manual settings for timing. another plus is that it is pen size so you can fit it in tight spaces, there is a relay box you have to hide somewhere. another good thing about it too is that it displays voltage, O2 voltage, afr, and timer though an led screen.

You must've missed it in all the arguing, but the Apex'i is my favorite :hehe:

pinoyGT4
05-25-2010, 07:39 PM
aaaaaaaaaaaaaand...

im using blitz fet timer..

its set for 30secs for normal daily driving and 3mins if in spirited mode or i ate some vtec lovin ricer.. (no offense to vtec owners here :D )

other than that, i too use it if i go to a store or something so i wouldnt have to shut it off and on often.. :D

Shadowlife25
05-25-2010, 08:34 PM
i can see your points though. it's certainly not going to HURT anything. i just don't find it worth spending the $ on.

If you can find one at a good price (cheap ;))
then it's a decent gadget to have.

Smaay
05-26-2010, 02:49 AM
It isn't about "stress", it's about heat. Contrary to popular belief...you generate more heat at higher speed cruising (say on the interstate) as opposed to some quick boost pulls. My manifold/turbine would be pretty hot after a 1/4, but nothing like it would be from getting off the highway after cruising at 4K rpms for an hour or two.

sorry Sang im gonna have to disagree with you. prime example. look at EGTs cruising and at full boost. i wont disagree that its all heat related, but there is way more heat generated at full boost than cruising

T-spoon
05-26-2010, 02:58 AM
sorry Sang im gonna have to disagree with you. prime example. look at EGTs cruising and at full boost. i wont disagree that its all heat related, but there is way more heat generated at full boost than cruising

I'm pretty sure that's going to depend - at least in part - on the particular car at what cruising RPM/speed and what kind of tune it has. With a safe tune (or with you know, the stock computer dumping fuel like it's going out of style) there's usually much richer AFR at WoT than cruising. If I recall correctly my MR2s EGTs didn't rise significantly or at all going WoT vs cruising at 75-80 MPH for extended periods.

Luni
05-26-2010, 07:20 AM
I can tell you right now Smaay my 3S made more heat at crusing than full boost.

Think about it. When youre crusing, your AFRs are 14.7 thats stupid lean for heat. Its controllable cause the ECU can inject fuel to keep it there and all that, but when youre just at WOT, and youre dumping fuel, it cools shit off.

When I had my MR2, same thing in my DSM mind you, when I was in closed loop, my EGTs would get in the 1500s easily. Id hit boost, theyd drop to the 1200s then raise back into the 1400s.

I made more heat crusing than at WOT. The only time I didnt make heat was when I had my foot out of the pedal.

Anyone else with an EGT have any similiar data?

T-spoon
05-26-2010, 08:34 AM
I can tell you right now Smaay my 3S made more heat at crusing than full boost.

Think about it. When youre crusing, your AFRs are 14.7 thats stupid lean for heat. Its controllable cause the ECU can inject fuel to keep it there and all that, but when youre just at WOT, and youre dumping fuel, it cools shit off.

When I had my MR2, same thing in my DSM mind you, when I was in closed loop, my EGTs would get in the 1500s easily. Id hit boost, theyd drop to the 1200s then raise back into the 1400s.

I made more heat crusing than at WOT. The only time I didnt make heat was when I had my foot out of the pedal.

Anyone else with an EGT have any similiar data?

That's what I was remembering, but I wasn't sure I was remembering correctly because it's been a while.

zen
05-26-2010, 10:32 AM
You must've missed it in all the arguing, but the Apex'i is my favorite :hehe:

no i didn't, i just didn't have anything to add to it. but yeah, i like mine and the features it has. i do agree that normal crusing should have higher egt's than on boost. if you think about it logically, if you are running real lean you will start to melt things. this is usually the cause of detonation of engines. thats why on factory tunes, the ecu is tuned to add a lot of fuel when the engine is on wot. you will lose performance but will not melt anything and keeps your motor from messing up. i guess you can think of it as a lighter and a torch. the lighter is fuel + oxygen (rich condition) that keeps the flame going. the torch has fuel + higher amounts of oxygen which burns that blue flame that is much much hotter than a lighter(lean condition).
fuel+oxygen=lighter=rich condition=less heat
fuel+lots of oxygen=torch=lean condition=more heat

GrpA4
05-26-2010, 11:06 AM
Greddy here, no problems so far (had it for 2 years) and the volt-meter function on it is kinda handy :)

Sang
05-28-2010, 06:03 AM
I can tell you right now Smaay my 3S made more heat at crusing than full boost.

Keep in mind that a 1/4 mile run is also what...14-15 seconds of sustained boost if you have a bad run? Whereas hwy cruises can last from minutes to hours?