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Doowstados
04-17-2010, 03:57 AM
1991 Toyota Celica GT (5SFE, Swapped Auto to Manual Transmission)

This thing has been my baby for going on seven years now. It still isn't perfect but I can't get rid of it.

Some pictures of when I first got it:


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_101.jpg?t=1271487216

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_108.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_107.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_106.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_105.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_104.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/IMAGE_103.jpg




Some of the stuff I've fixed so far: UPDATED 10/14/2015


In order:

+ Replaced broken stock airbox
+ Alternator plug wire broke, cut one off at PaP and soldered it on.
+ Replaced alternator
+ Replaced radiator
+ Replaced IACV, all attached sensors (TPS etc.)
+ Replaced EGR solenoid
+ Cleaned EGR valve
+ Welded a hole in muffler
+ Replaced O2 sensors
+ New 2.25" custom catback exhaust
+ Custom painted Scion tC rims + low profile tires
+ Timing belt, water pump, etc
+ New catalytic converter
+ New driveshafts
+ New front struts
+ New remanufactured engine
+ Auto to manual conversion
+ New power steering pump and TPS around February 2013
+ Full brake job (front/rear) around August 2014
+ TWM short shifter and shift knob around August 2014
+ New brake master cylinder around September 2015


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Still broken:

+ AC needs to be recharged



Future plans:

Lowering springs/coilover kit, going to go for maybe a 1 - 1 1/2 inch drop.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Naemion
04-17-2010, 06:43 AM
Looks nice, as for the headers, I just picked up a camry header. They bolt right up and it works pretty good for out motor because the motors are the same.

I would recommend using photobucket to upload pics because they automatically resize the pics so they won't be so large.

Doowstados
04-17-2010, 08:09 AM
BOLT ON MODS:

Thanks to Hookecho I now have my 97' Camry header. (March/April 2011)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/c87af974.jpg

It'll be getting put on tomorrow so that my exhaust guy can move my front cat the necessary amount. Sometime in the next few days it'll be taken back off, sand down and painted black with some 2000 degree VHT.

Naemion
04-17-2010, 09:21 AM
The camry header from what I have heard, will give you a slight, maybe 5hp increase. It will also extend your powerband just a hair.

Doowstados
04-17-2010, 09:30 AM
Reserved

Naemion
04-17-2010, 09:49 AM
From my memory, I believe it is a 95-99 camry header. Easy to spot, 4-1 style header.

Grot
04-17-2010, 04:30 PM
You have very atainable goals for the car starting out.

Very good looking car BTW

Doowstados
04-17-2010, 08:06 PM
Reserved

celica9303
04-17-2010, 08:39 PM
nice ride.

you will need a 97-99 camry header, the 95 is the same we have now on our cars.i have a thread with pics of my install/exhaust fab that needs done in the n/a forum. some where.......

Doowstados
04-17-2010, 10:27 PM
Reserved

acidice333
04-18-2010, 09:14 AM
That bolt hole in the middle is where a engine hook bracket is suppose to go, and its also suppose to hold onto those 4 spark plug wires I believe.

187flatliner
04-18-2010, 09:20 AM
me and you got the same wheels....ive got 17s tho.....nice looking celi

Doowstados
04-27-2010, 08:14 AM
Reserved

dynastycelica7722
04-29-2010, 09:46 PM
hey man I'm 18 too so I understand the money thing good luck

CarolinaJr.
05-04-2010, 03:34 PM
Nice Celica man, im 18 also lol

Doowstados
09-07-2010, 01:02 AM
Well, went outside to start it up today to drive my girlfriend home to find a dead starter. (I'm guessing.) Made kind of a whirring noise. Gonna test it tomorrow when I have time and daylight. Any ideas what else it could be in case it isn't my starter?

And thanks guys.

METDeath
09-07-2010, 02:10 AM
Was it a loud whirring/grinding noise? If so, it could simply be a "flat spot" on the starter and will either require a few more attempts or a gentle whack. Which does indicated that it does need replacement, if it happens often, sooner rather than later.

My does it maybe once a month... less since I'm never home to drive it. I just try to start it a few times and it catches eventually.

Doowstados
03-04-2011, 11:23 PM
Update (March 1, 2011).

Got into an accident the other day and was forced into a median. Luckily, I avoided the other car (who tried to change lanes right into me...) and therefore avoided body damage. Unfortunately, my underside is pretty screwed up right now. My resonator, muffler and the front part of my exhaust pipe (right below the exhaust manifold) are damaged and will need to be replaced/welded. Also, my radiator seems to have been damaged even more than it already was and will need to be replaced.

Update March 4, 2011


I picked up a new radiator today because my old Nissan one (lol) was leaking from the top seam. Found a local radiator supply company that had a ready-rad in stock. (I haven't heard much about this brand, hopefully it holds up decently.)

EDIT: Forgot to mention, my underside has been welded with the exception of the resonator. (The hole in it is small, it isn't too loud.)

Here's a pic of the new one:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/photo2.jpg

Doowstados
03-05-2011, 02:58 AM
Radiator installed. No more leaks! I also took the liberty of replacing all of my rad hoses and cleaning out my catch can. So far so good with the ready-rad radiator, took me around five or so minutes more than usual to get my car heated up to reg temp.

Doowstados
03-06-2011, 07:42 AM
Shopping list post. You can ignore this.

3S-GTE Front clip
Shop Crane: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html
Leveler: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html
Good torque wrench
Shrink Tube: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/electrical/127-piece-heat-shrink-tubing-set-67524.html
New wire stripper
Good chain
Chain locks
Label maker

subspec
04-11-2011, 08:47 AM
if you dont have a breaker bar or 30mm socket id get that. i sware by my breaker bar. way better than a impact.

Doowstados
04-15-2011, 07:58 AM
Massive update to original post, will also be updating again tomorrow with several more recent pictures.

Dear mods, is there any way to change the title of this thread, or will I need to delete it and create a new one? Maybe I should just to organize the first page better. Open to advice on this.

Doowstados
04-26-2011, 09:35 AM
A little late but heres an update:

Went with a 2.25" catback exhaust. It has a 12" Dynomax resonator (NOT glasspack) and nice Dynomax muffler on it. Thing sounds amazingly quiet at idle and at high rpms sounds pretty beastly without that rice-ish raspy tone at all. Overall it's quiet but very deep sounding. I tried the Flowmaster 40 and 44 series as well as some Magnaflow mufflers before finally settling on the Dynomax. I found that the Flowmaster mufflers sounded too high pitched for me while the Magnaflow mufflers were a bit too... I don't know how to describe it... whiney? Kind of like a mix between a buzz and rasp.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/be3c0a35.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/b8944405.jpg


I went ahead and bought the Scion rims from my friend I've been talking about. Got em a couple of weeks ago. Here's some crappy quality pics of her after her bath today:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/8d4339ea.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/c6ed7ecf.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/c863b565.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/8dcd3a5f.jpg

She definitely needs an alignment right now; this last week I upgraded from 14" to 17" wheels AND changed the left CV axle. Thing is pulling to the left every time the road becomes even slightly bumpy/concave.

Doowstados
07-03-2011, 04:22 AM
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/d36b5c15.jpg?t=1309663159

Alignment is fixed, lookin' nice after a bath.

Put some new gauges in:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/f2301977.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/7a4a7ecd.jpg


Need to fix an oil leak coming from the oil pump O-Ring and replace the other CV axle when I get the money/time. She's running good right now though.

grimmythereaper
07-06-2011, 10:23 PM
i really like the gauge placement

Atticus
07-09-2011, 04:44 AM
Yeah me too. I am definitely going to place my gauges there too. Nice ride by the way. Are you going to stay automatic after the 3s swap or converting? Just a question, if you need advice or help on the conversion hit me up as I completed mine last year.

Doowstados
07-11-2011, 08:38 AM
Yeah me too. I am definitely going to place my gauges there too. Nice ride by the way. Are you going to stay automatic after the 3s swap or converting? Just a question, if you need advice or help on the conversion hit me up as I completed mine last year.


i really like the gauge placement

Thanks guys! I was trying for something a bit different/less noticeable. Cops around here tend to gravitate towards cars with a-pillars...

I'm going to be converting to manual. Probably won't be doing my swap as soon as I would like to though, money is tight right now because CA keeps raising the costs of public college/university. It might be postponed until I graduate and get a better job but it WILL happen. I'm also planning on buying a third or fourth gen to use as a DD before I make the swap, so I have a lot to prepare for financially. I'll definitely hit your inbox for info on the tranny swap when I'm all ready though :laugh:

Doowstados
08-06-2011, 09:33 AM
Worked on getting these painted today:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/45fc001e.jpg?t=1312619415

They'll be going in the car to cure tomorrow. I also picked up some black hose/wire loom to clean up my engine bay a bit.

Anyone know where I can pick up some high temp safe clear coat?

temperacerguy
08-06-2011, 02:15 PM
You can pick up clear engine enamel at any auto parts store. Looking good.

Doowstados
08-07-2011, 04:46 AM
First time I've ever painted anything. What do you think?


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/f1f2424c.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/38e834b0.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/03c57019.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/064aa066.jpg

grimmythereaper
08-07-2011, 04:48 AM
looks really good:)

Doowstados
08-07-2011, 04:54 AM
looks really good:)

Thanks!

My next paint job will be those wheels, need to sand them and repaint them black. The PO didn't clear coat them so they need to be made shiny.

I might do my calipers/drums black while I'm at it. PO painted them red and I cleaned them off/touched them up once but they haven't ever been clear coated either.

Doowstados
09-07-2011, 08:04 AM
Not really a huge update, but I use my project thread to keep tabs of my maintenance/repairs as well as the cool updates.

This (much needed!) kit will be going in shortly:

http://i54.tinypic.com/2rxh5b6.png

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Kit-Toyota-Celica-1990-1991-2-2-5SFE-/150438541810?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2306d5f9f2

As will this:

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/msv/to-8076.jpg

Wait till you see the old timing belt. Thing is getting dangerous. I believe it's been about 100,000 miles since the last change from what I can see. Should last me the next couple of weeks, though.

trumanpriest
09-07-2011, 02:54 PM
Should last me the next couple of weeks, though.

I wish you the best of luck - I don't make comments like the above.....fate seems to like to prove me wrong just because it can.

Doowstados
09-21-2011, 04:51 PM
Tons of stuff going on this weekend, finally got all my new parts together.

Brand new CV Axle
Starter rebuild kit
Timing belt
Water pump
Tensioner pulleys/bearings
Reseal leaking oil pan/oil change
Tune up (valve lash, spark plugs)

http://tapatalk.com/mu/d1811005-0796-a4e5.jpg

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6cd8859-07ec-279a.jpg

Fades24
09-26-2011, 06:00 PM
Nice car, i got one just like it a few months ago. its been giving me a lot of problems though.

Doowstados
10-08-2011, 02:40 AM
Nice car, i got one just like it a few months ago. its been giving me a lot of problems though.

Thanks! Where in CA are you? Maybe I can help out.


Anyway, minor update. Finished doing all my work. Over the last three weeks the car got:

- New Passenger side CV Axle
- New timing Belt
- New tensioner/idler pulleys
- New water pump
- Rebuilt starter
- New accessory belts
- New oil pump seal and crank seal
- New battery terminals

Didn't take a whole lot of pics, only got these:


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/e753a810.jpg?t=1318037959

Old belt after ~100,000 miles. Not as bad as I expected.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/becb25c8.jpg

Doowstados
10-24-2011, 08:09 AM
Small update -


Car made it's longest drive ever since I've owned it with absolutely no problems!

I drove from San Diego to Fullerton and back (~100 miles one way). I tried this drive right after getting the car and stalled halfway there in the center lane of traffic during rush hour. That was fun.

Good to know the work I've done to it hasn't been for naught. All thanks to CTech!

Doowstados
11-05-2011, 04:09 AM
Well, this was my first attempt at using a paint gun. I think it turned out okay. No runs, very little orange peel (mostly around the lug nuts where I really tried to get good coverage with clear coat. It'll be buffed out. Excuse the bad picture quality, I have a better camera coming in the mail and will update soon.

Before:

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/269516_10150722363670019_809925018_19976509_163975 4_n.jpg

After:

Before clear coat:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/5e01f5ca.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/a7c4ff25.jpg

After clear coat:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/2156c8f8.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/10f98269.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/b5776ad8.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/311899_10150934608350019_809925018_21963124_674625 285_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/377203_10150934605825019_809925018_21963120_988327 303_n.jpg

pintoBC_3sgte
11-05-2011, 03:57 PM
wow nice job on the rims

Doowstados
11-05-2011, 10:42 PM
wow nice job on the rims

Thanks!

Eric Barrera
11-09-2011, 07:07 AM
So now do you trust your car for a trip to my house lol :)

Grot
11-09-2011, 08:13 AM
those rims came out nice.

Is that flake in the clear? regardless it looks cool.

grimmythereaper
11-11-2011, 09:56 PM
very awesome, :)

Doowstados
11-12-2011, 05:08 AM
So now do you trust your car for a trip to my house lol :)

Haha, yeah, if I ever find a reason to get up there. Better not to tempt fate. :laugh:

I'll be moving to OC soon, maybe after that.


those rims came out nice.

Is that flake in the clear? regardless it looks cool.

Thanks! No, theres no flake in the clear. I used Matrix Systems Charcoal Gray base coat w/ medium coarse flakes (2:1 urethane paint) and then sprayed over it with SprayMax 2k catalyzed clear.


very awesome, :)

Thanks man!


I'll post some more pictures when the weather clears up and I can buff them up a bit and really get them shiny. I got a new camera too so they'll really pop in the pictures.

New camera takes pics like this (took these today at Veterans Day parade):

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312762_10150952675790019_809925018_22057944_260668 448_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/374583_10150952682935019_809925018_22057997_157758 9514_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/374050_10150952696145019_809925018_22058098_663316 580_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/382947_10150952714675019_809925018_22058282_162921 6421_n.jpg

Not bad for $36.01 on eBay. The camera retailed for like $350 in stores though like last year, so I scored! Haha. (Also, the cars were moving and mine won't be ;) )

match220
11-24-2011, 11:24 PM
good luck man..

Ghost
11-26-2011, 11:56 PM
how is the car feeling with the ebay timing belt kit ? i have do mine soon just a bit effy with ebay stuff.

Doowstados
12-10-2011, 09:24 AM
how is the car feeling with the ebay timing belt kit ? i have do mine soon just a bit effy with ebay stuff.


Feels good. All the parts were high quality GMB or otherwise name brand Jap parts. Pretty high quality kit.



In other news, sorry for the delays in pictures on those wheels guys. It keeps raining every other day and I haven't gotten around to buffing them yet because I know as soon as I do they'll just be getting dirty a few hours later.

Doowstados
10-01-2012, 05:31 AM
Well, looks like my dear old pain in the ass fifth gen has shit the bed. I mean that in the nicest way possible.


I was immediately asked by my family why I didn't want to sell the car and just buy a *new* used car that actually runs.

The answer is sweet and simple - I love this car. I have poured enormous amounts of blood, sweat, tears and money into her and to throw away such a fifth gen in such beautiful condition would be a damn shame.

I have learned a lot in the last few years on the forums and have practically replaced everything BUT the engine and the transmission at this point, so the prospect of having a rebuilt engine with zero miles is pretty appealing and not worth passing up.

My dilemma is that I have no idea where to begin here. My work area is a one car garage that is half populated with stuff my Mom is storing:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/e753a810.jpg?t=1318037959

I have no space or time (I live 75% of the time in OC now, Mom's garage is in San Diego) to do a rebuild myself, so I will be purchasing a reman engine. I will not be doing the 3S-GTE swap because I can't afford it and I need reliable transportation ASAP (I drive bi-weekly from OC to San Diego on weekends).

Here's my list of questions (so far!)

1) Where should I buy my engine from? I know places like Autozone/NAPA sell them, but I can get one from a fairly reputable engine shop like this for much cheaper:

https://123engine.com/toyota4.php

and with a reasonable warranty.

2) Since I'm going to have the engine out anyway, is there anything specific I should do while the engine bay is empty? I am already planning on fixing my flywheel because it is missing a couple of teeth and causing some occasional starting problems. Any other things to check out/replace?

grimmythereaper
10-01-2012, 06:00 AM
besides cleaning ur engine bay, check the gears in the tranny if u plan on keepin it. also the engines at auto store are already rebuilt :)

Doowstados
10-01-2012, 06:12 AM
besides cleaning ur engine bay, check the gears in the tranny if u plan on keepin it. also the engines at auto store are already rebuilt :)

That's the plan good sir.

underscore
10-02-2012, 02:05 AM
Wait, you can buy a pre-rebuilt 5S at auto stores? That's awesome! How much do those run?

I would replace the PS lines and get the axles rebuilt with new boots unless they're new, just because it's easy right now.

92 celica
10-02-2012, 03:29 AM
If your rack is going bad I'd replace that, power steering lines, vacuum lines, gas lines, break lines, clutch feed line, all of the stuff under the hood pretty much


Also make sure you get an engine for a celica or a mr2 because those auto places if its a camrys they put the blanching shafts in it

CollapsedNut
10-02-2012, 03:36 AM
Don't go too crazy and take on a buncha stuff at once. In terms of getting it done quick and affordably, I wouldn't touch anything that was still working when the engine came out. If you go replacing this and that you will end up with more problems and headachs, my 4th gen is a prime example. I've replaced just about everything on it and what I had planned to be a simple engine rebuild turned into a 2 year project. Swap in engine, put in a new clutch and flywheel and roll.

KoreanJoey
10-02-2012, 07:56 AM
www.enginehaus.com Also rebuilds 5s engines.

Doowstados
10-02-2012, 08:26 AM
So far I'm planning on doing my flywheel, steering rack ad vacuum lines because those all have some sort of problem (except the vacuum lines, those are just 21 years old). I'll probably do some cleaning and polish the bay up a bit. Not much else is require in terms of fixing things, just about everything else is new...

I'll be buying it from the site I posted above most likely because they offer a one year unlimited mile warranty and I drive roughly 15,000 - 20,000 miles a year.

Doowstados
10-02-2012, 08:29 AM
What I could use is a good guide on the removal of the engine (what to remove first, the easiest order to reassemble everything).

I plan on pulling both the engine and tranny and then dropping them both back in as a single unit so I don't need to align them under the car. Is this a good idea?

UtahSleeper
10-02-2012, 08:45 AM
The price for a motor at auto zone/etc tend to be over priced. I would be inclined to fine a hopefully good used, freshen up and roll. Unless you can find a good deal on a reman.

Doowstados
10-02-2012, 08:48 AM
I ordered from Promar Precision Engines in NJ.

92 celica
10-03-2012, 12:45 AM
Unbolt the subframes remove your axels and unplug the harness from the ecu and unbolt from the firewall and then put something under the motor to hold it up while you unbolt all the motor mounts and either lift it out or roll it out from underneath

KoreanJoey
10-03-2012, 07:08 AM
Swapping engines is not rocket science.

Doowstados
10-03-2012, 08:08 AM
Swapping engines is not rocket science.

It's a bit intimidating considering I haven't done it before. I'm sure it'll work out just fine but some guidance would be helpful.

KoreanJoey
10-04-2012, 07:47 AM
I pull them from the bottom so that doesn't really help most people... But I guess I could do a write-up while I yank out my smoked bearing motor.

Doowstados
10-04-2012, 09:11 AM
I pull them from the bottom so that doesn't really help most people... But I guess I could do a write-up while I yank out my smoked bearing motor.

That would be a great help man, thanks!

CollapsedNut
10-05-2012, 02:14 AM
Leave the AC lines and pump hooked up, just unbolt the pump from the block and let it sit on the ground, then you don't have to vac/fill the system and save some $

Doowstados
10-05-2012, 03:51 AM
Leave the AC lines and pump hooked up, just unbolt the pump from the block and let it sit on the ground, then you don't have to vac/fill the system and save some $

It's actually already empty, sucks because lately it's been 100+ pretty often here. At least the bus has AC!

Doowstados
10-08-2012, 08:11 AM
Well, thought I would update the project thread just for the sake of keeping a record of everything that is going on.

A couple of weeks ago I developed some major engine problems likely due to a spun bearing (I'll be dropping the pan soon to confirm, but the engine is pretty much FUBAR from the noises it's making).

Planning on picking up a reman engine (zero miles!) and swapping it. Expect a lot of pictures soon! Maybe I'll be able to do a write up on engine removal or something while I'm learning.

All in all, here's my plans:

- Cruise control delete
- Clean up the engine bay
- Replace vacuum hoses as necessary
- Replace engine mounts (maybe make some hockey puck mounts, I've heard they work well)
- Replace tranny flex plate

I'm open to suggestions on how to proceed with the engine removal and/or possible things to check on while the engine is out and everything is opened up.

Doowstados
10-08-2012, 05:58 PM
After doing some serious research about 123engine.com I have decided against them. They have horrible reviews on Ripoff Report. I will be ordering from promar precision engines because they are A+ members of the BBB, have an insane amount of positive feedback on their work and offer a 3 year unlimited mile warranty (they also charge $2099 as opposed to $1095, but for the peace of mind on something as critical as this I think it's worth it.)

Has anyone here personally dealt with them before? I would like to hear firsthand from someone I know if possible.

caffeinephreak
10-08-2012, 11:31 PM
i recently was apart of 5s rebuild
and it only took about 2.5 weeks im not sure if thats too long for you time frame and you can pick up the 5s all day at junk yards just try to find them with the wires still in and the hood on pull it rebuild it will cost way less 2k but
with the money your spending you could just find yourself a running 5gen celica gt or something then you can have a whole parts car
may not be viable for you due to space issues

Doowstados
10-09-2012, 12:12 AM
I would much rather do a rebuild myself because it would probably end up cheaper and I would enjoy doing it, unfortunately I just don't have space.

I need something that will work reliably and while I would rather go to a junkyard and pull an engine I can't afford to risk having to replace it again in the next year or two because I don't have time or space to do even a light rebuild (head gasket/valve work/etc).

I only have access to my garage in San Diego two weekends a month and I need to use a lot of that time visiting my family and my girlfriend. At this point I'm set on just getting an engine with zero miles and finishing everything up as quickly as possible. My tear down will hopefully begin this weekend.

CollapsedNut
10-09-2012, 12:31 AM
I would really pull the oil pan and valve cover and see whats wrong before ordering an engine, you may find that the problem isn't what you thought. I'd hate for you to order a short block and end up needing a head.

klapa
10-10-2012, 03:36 AM
The price for a motor at auto zone/etc tend to be over priced. I would be inclined to fine a hopefully good used, freshen up and roll. Unless you can find a good deal on a reman.


I'm ordering from here:

https://123engine.com/toyota4.php

I dunno - I would tend to agree wit Collapsednut above and UtahSleeper...

You might just as well get another car that might have plenty of miles left just for the price of that engine.

I followed that link and specified a 1993 Celica - it comes up with the same short block for a Celica, MR2, Camry, or Solara from 1991-2001.

I do not think that these are all the same even for a short block.

92 celica
10-10-2012, 03:40 AM
I dunno - I would ted to agree wit Collapsednut above and UtahSleeper...

You could just as well get another car that might have plenty of miles left just for the price of that engine.

I followed that link and specified a 1993 Celica - it comes up with the same short block for a Celica, MR2, Camry, or Solara from 1991-2001.

I do not think that these are all the same even for a short block.

The celica and mr2 is the same and the Camry and Solara is the same except the 98+ where they made a reinforcement by the water pump and they have balancing shafts in them

Doowstados
10-10-2012, 04:05 AM
The 90-91 5SFE is the same across all models that used the engine with the only exception I believe being the Camry oil pan rests slightly lower, but uses the same holes as the Celica pan so it can be swapped.

Again, to reiterate, I have no space for another car or the time/money to deal with an engine with a questionable history that may die in a year. I need this fix to last me at minimum two years until I can buy a newer car and make this a project instead of a DD.

I am pulling the oil pan and valve cover this weekend to inspect the bearings/rods/valves and will report back on what I find. I am positive there is metal present in the pan though, so not feeling particularly hopeful.

UtahSleeper
10-10-2012, 10:48 PM
Good luck either way. And taking it apart doesnt hurt much, so worth the look.

Also, http://car-parts.com may be worth a look for a used motor if your willing to consider. In the end just get her running and dont break your bank :)

Doowstados
10-11-2012, 06:23 AM
Thanks man, fingers crossed for good news!

Eric Barrera
10-11-2012, 07:16 PM
I have found that pulling the 5s from under is pretty easy... 2 cross frames out, mounts out, just slides right out too. Just make sure you can pull the engine out and have the car jacked up enough.

Doowstados
10-12-2012, 07:29 AM
How can I get the car high enough while keeping the engine/tranny on the hoist? Or is it possible to maybe lower the whole thing, set the engine/tranny on something with wheels then use the hoist to lift the frame?

KoreanJoey
10-12-2012, 07:52 AM
Bigger floor jack?

92 celica
10-12-2012, 02:32 PM
I've always put an old tire under the motor, removed the mounts it will fall just a little I don't think your to worried about damaging the motor at this point and yeah just hoist the car up and slide the motor out good luck

underscore
10-12-2012, 05:53 PM
take the wheel off if you haven't already, drop the front end as low as you can then put something under the motor.

Doowstados
10-12-2012, 09:38 PM
Would you recommend draining the tranny before pulling the axles? I can't remember but I think last time I pulled the axles I only had minor leakage, so it should be fine to leave the fluid in, right? Don't want to inadvertently cause any problems by changing my trans fluid.

fussellbug
10-12-2012, 10:47 PM
The toyota service manual always says to drain the transmission before pulling the axles. Although you didn't lose much fluid when you pulled the axles before, the transmission will be moving around this time and it's better to drain it in a controlled way than have fluid running out on the floor while you're pulling/dropping the engine.

Doowstados
10-13-2012, 06:58 AM
Well, I had a coupon for a one ton cherry picker at HF for $89.99 so I went ahead I grabbed that today because it expires soon and I've been wanting one for awhile anyway.

My girlfriend bought me an earthquake 1/4" air ratchet as part of an early anniversary present (four years coming up in October, I have a feeling I'm going to be getting hitched here pretty soon...) so that'll be a big help in getting everything apart a bit quicker. My goal tomorrow is to check the bearings and valves and if necessary get everything stripped and the engine ready to lift out by Sunday morning. Probably a bit optimistic but we'll see what happens. I'll keep you updated (and if it's REALLY bad, maybe a video of the destruction!)




The toyota service manual always says to drain the transmission before pulling the axles. Although you didn't lose much fluid when you pulled the axles before, the transmission will be moving around this time and it's better to drain it in a controlled way than have fluid running out on the floor while you're pulling/dropping the engine.

That's what I figured, thanks!

Doowstados
10-13-2012, 09:16 AM
Making a checklist... Missing anything?

3192

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 01:25 AM
Well opened it up and it was a spun bearing. Not nuked or anything but definitely the problem.


I need some help, how do I get to the ECU to unplug the harness? I can't figure out how to get this panel off. There has got to be some hidden screws I'm missing...

3193

All I need to take off now is the A/C compressor, PS pump, the harness and the mounts.

METDeath
10-14-2012, 02:27 AM
The gray piece that goes around the shifter? You have to take a lot of screws out, and remove the arm rest console bits too.

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 02:38 AM
The gray piece that goes around the shifter? You have to take a lot of screws out, and remove the arm rest console bits too.

Problem is that from what I can see I have all the screws out. I can't remove the part going around the hand brake, which is necessary to get this part out. It feels as though something in the center of the console is holding it but I can't find any fastener or anything. I removed the four fasteners in the sides of the rear arm rest/hand brake portion and the four in the front portion along the sides. Can't find the rest.

alltracNyx
10-14-2012, 03:40 AM
You should be able to disconnect the ECU without taking all of that apart; I did it when I swapped the ECU in John's vert before the Dragon this year, and I've done it the same way every time we've pulled the motor from the st165, st185, and the 6th gen. Just pull the carpet back from the center console area and you'll see the ECU sitting right under the heater box. You have to unplug the connectors from the ECU and body harness (maybe 7 connectors?). Then, remove the two nuts from the firewall where the harness comes into the engine bay, and carefully pull the harness out. This works best with two people so that one person is in the car feeding the harness up (making sure the connectors don't snag on anything inside the car), and the other person is pulling the harness into the engine bay. It's a squeeze to disconnect the body harness connectors, but it's never taken me more than 10 minutes to pull the harness into the engine bay.

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 03:48 AM
You should be able to disconnect the ECU without taking all of that apart; I did it when I swapped the ECU in John's vert before the Dragon this year, and I've done it the same way every time we've pulled the motor from the st165, st185, and the 6th gen. Just pull the carpet back from the center console area and you'll see the ECU sitting right under the heater box. You have to unplug the connectors from the ECU and body harness (maybe 7 connectors?). Then, remove the two nuts from the firewall where the harness comes into the engine bay, and carefully pull the harness out. This works best with two people so that one person is in the car feeding the harness up (making sure the connectors don't snag on anything inside the car), and the other person is pulling the harness into the engine bay. It's a squeeze to disconnect the body harness connectors, but it's never taken me more than 10 minutes to pull the harness into the engine bay.

That was a huge help, thanks! Any tips for unplugging these things? I have big fingers and the little clips are not being cooperative.

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 03:54 AM
Never mind, I just pried them off with a screwdriver.

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 08:24 PM
Sorry for all the double/multi posts guys. I want to kind of use this as a "project" thread that will hopefully help someone out in the future so I've been updating often and Tapatalk is only letting me post one image per thread...

These have probably been my best friend 3194

I've needed them 3 times already. Last bolt I needed out was the upper speedo cable bracket bolt, massive pain in the ass because the bracket blocks anything and you need to remove the rubber bit on the front mount to get to it. Plus it was rounded off before I even touched it...

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 08:29 PM
Here is where I stand so far

3195

All I really have left to do is the axles and the P.S. pump before it comes out. That'll be two weeks from now though, because I will be in OC for awhile.

Hookecho
10-14-2012, 08:43 PM
Not much room to work in. Must be a pita.

Doowstados
10-14-2012, 10:40 PM
Not much room to work in. Must be a pita.

Yeah, trying to pull the engine will be exciting to say the least...

Doowstados
10-16-2012, 01:13 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280963506754?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Picked this up today for $21, pretty good deal. Looks to be in good overall condition, which is nice because I'm pretty sure mine is missing 1-3 teeth (starter doesn't always catch).

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/90-91-92-93-TOYOTA-CELICA-FLY-WHEEL-FLYWHEEL-FLEX-PLATE-AUTOMATIC-AT-A-T-OEM-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16N,!zoE9s5nd8,PBQTojewuDg~~60_57.JPG

grimmythereaper
10-16-2012, 03:00 AM
congrts on the flywheel, the center console has 2 bolts in the area rest area, lift the center and u should see em if not not look for the plastic covers or something else covering the bolts, also if u haven't done so yet number ur conntecters under the hood for the wireharness its makes putting everything back in extremely easy

Doowstados
10-16-2012, 03:35 AM
congrts on the flywheel, the center console has 2 bolts in the area rest area, lift the center and u should see em if not not look for the plastic covers or something else covering the bolts, also if u haven't done so yet number ur conntecters under the hood for the wireharness its makes putting everything back in extremely easy

I figured it out yesterday, thanks though.

I've been labeling stuff with masking tape and a black sharpie but I think I should have used a white paint pen and just permanently labeled everything... maybe I'll do that as I put stuff back together so I have it set up for future reference.

grimmythereaper
10-16-2012, 05:13 AM
i used a label maker when i labeled my conecters, lol

Doowstados
10-19-2012, 03:35 AM
Should I change the transmission filter when I do all of this? I've heard from some that you should and from some you shouldn't. What's your opinion? Either way the fluid needs to be changed (no flush, though).

UtahSleeper
10-19-2012, 06:30 AM
Yes. Clogged filter can restrict flow, so change it while its out.

Doowstados
10-21-2012, 08:51 PM
What is necessary for the cruise control delete? Can I just use the throttle cable that goes to the CC assembly or do I need to buy another one?

Eric Barrera
10-22-2012, 07:01 PM
I have seen people bend the cable, but personally I would just get one from an ST

Doowstados
10-25-2012, 05:14 AM
Got some stuff in the mail today.

3205

Two toyota oil filters, tranny filter, fuel filter and thermostat.

Thanks to Lithia Toyota for the awesome pricing!

Doowstados
10-29-2012, 12:28 AM
Well, pulling the engine was a solid bitch. Had no clearance and broke my garage door in the process but here it is:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/B4AB075F-632E-433B-A9D6-2A656DF8AADB-8619-000004426374225B.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/44CC3859-F7B8-471E-B596-B092FE09498C-8619-000004426ACFD369.jpg

Doowstados
10-31-2012, 10:24 AM
Learned some new information today that I thought might come in handy in the future for someone.

Apparently only revision 2 5SFE Calif. heads actually have any differences from the Fed emissions heads (the addition of a port for air shrouded injectors).

90-93 (revision 1) heads apparently do not share this difference, so theoretically any 90-93 5SFE can be legally swapped into a CA emissions 90-93 car and hook up properly to the EGR system (provided you have the proper intake manifold). I called Aaron at Lithia and asked him to check to verify there was no difference in part numbers, and there was none. I also spoke to Eric and he verified that his 5FSE (92?) also does not have the port.

Sweet.

Hookecho
10-31-2012, 03:53 PM
That's interesting.

Doowstados
11-06-2012, 11:39 AM
What bolts can I NOT reuse while putting everything back together? Are transmission bolts okay to reuse, etc? I'm not touching any engine components, just things that attach to the engine.

4thgenceli
11-06-2012, 03:14 PM
Chase them with a die and clean them you should be fine

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

grimmythereaper
11-06-2012, 06:58 PM
i wouldn't reuse flywheel bolts, just on the safe side

Doowstados
11-07-2012, 05:58 AM
Do I need to have the (used) flywheel that I bought resurfaced?

grimmythereaper
11-07-2012, 06:07 AM
it would be a good idea just make sure it stays in the proper allowance after it gets resurfaced

Doowstados
11-11-2012, 07:15 AM
Got the transmission off the engine today, look at this!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/5B990B1F-9DCC-41B6-9556-E7C40454F2E0-3017-0000017FFC9211FF.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/B87F3BC1-D000-404C-9BCE-EC1D1C4E6A1C-3017-0000017FFEE36327.jpg

That is a seriously destroyed flywheel. No wonder I would grind when I started sometimes.

Doowstados
11-19-2012, 11:33 AM
Just a quick update,

I've had the engine for a couple of days now, haven't had a lot of time on my hands though. Plan is to get everything wrapped up by the end of Thanksgiving break, we'll see how that goes...

Here's some pics:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/603083F0-CC72-4FB3-BF9E-0D1B03BACFC3-10861-00000591546446E9.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/B2F2F08A-1CD5-4262-9572-EE7B83E2EB39-10861-0000059157286208.jpg

I am a bit concerned about this rust, is it worth worrying about?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/DCC56BDE-0A1A-47CA-BEA2-FE4FE0941A4F-10861-0000059159794F6E.jpg

Really packed in now... need to pull half the garage out every time I need to do something.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/726FD687-69EB-4C27-B1DC-7E7F51A2D4D8-10861-000005915D0A1229.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/EAFC8138-986F-45D4-8F3B-4A75A758FFBF-10861-0000059161C8D2EB.jpg

Pretty much all I got done today was painting the valve cover and getting it installed. My Mom's 95' Grand Voyager died yesterday, transmission is shot. Spent most of today figuring out what exactly happened to that, not much I can do there. She'll be picking up something new soon, car isn't worth what it's going to take to fix it.

Hopefully I'll have more to report tomorrow. Stay tuned guys!

PS: Quick question, since these are shimmed valves, will they need adjusting after initial start up and/or break-in period, or should they stay in spec?

Doowstados
11-20-2012, 04:17 AM
That rust was superficial, I wiped it off with my finger. I got a lot done today, engine will be going in tomorrow most likely and will be running by Friday night (I hope).

Here's a picture and a video of the damage to the old engine, I forgot to upload them earlier. Sorry.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiRTe-DgY0g

Here's where the bearing went:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/DAC86E98-7CDA-4B4E-9611-5648680BF421-11395-000005CB87ECFDA4.jpg

grimmythereaper
11-20-2012, 05:23 AM
holy damn man, that looks painful

Doowstados
11-22-2012, 03:45 AM
Got the engine and tranny in today... Took five hours to get one mount. Again, do not recommend going in from the top! Unfortunately I don't have clearance to lift the car onto the engine. That route would have been so much easier!

Doowstados
12-28-2012, 07:24 PM
Realized I haven't updated in awhile. Engine is running strong, no vacuum leaks or strange idling problems to speak of.

I need to fix a coolant leak coming from the bent nipple on the metal cooling pipe bolted to the head, and my exhaust is completely mismatched for the new oil pan so I'm going to extend it about 3" to fit.

I'm pretty sure the engine rebuilding company put a Camry oil pan on the block (which, while it doesn't fit with my current exhaust, is going to provide some cooler oil for me.) so that works out.

The new oil pan is roughly 3" lower than my old one, causing some interference with the exhaust pipe. I need to be careful and make sure that when I'm finished the pipe doesn't make contact with the oil pan or the lower crossmember.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/E8B92110-3EA1-4A6A-97D0-CF58C3EA6558-6635-000002E666E472B4.jpg

Eric Barrera
12-28-2012, 07:56 PM
Glad to hear it's running

grimmythereaper
12-30-2012, 03:35 AM
happy to see it up and running :)

Doowstados
01-02-2013, 05:04 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbLzi2KCdr4

There's some video.

Eric Barrera
01-07-2013, 10:08 PM
I wish mine idled like that.

Doowstados
01-26-2013, 01:56 AM
I wish mine idled like that.

Unfortunately, idling smoothly is all it does. The engine is strong and smooth, but I have no power because my torque converter is fried. I suspect it is what ended the last engine (puts strain on the crank and damages the thrust bearing).

So, I have a solution to this problem...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/DBE3DB6C-540A-464C-9795-5D084A968387-251-000000120E97A722.jpg

Everything not pictured is in the mail. I'll be picking up the transmission itself next weekend. I'm so psyched to finally have a real sports car and not a sloppy slushfest.

I went with an Exedy OEM style clutch kit and a Perfection Clutch flywheel. Also picked up some ARP flywheel bolts and a decent looking ebay boot/shift knob kit.

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.co m%2Finfo%2FExedy%2F16073.jpg&imagekey=2392092-0&width=450

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/50-108-Perfection-Clutch-New-Flywheel-/00/s/NDUwWDQ1MA==/$(KGrHqR,!rgE-dK!rR1TBP29dleJ8Q~~60_12.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Red-Stitch-Leather-Gear-Shifter-Boot-Short-Shift-Knob-/00/s/ODAwWDczOA==/$(KGrHqFHJEIFCdeok!TtBQuQK37toQ~~60_3.JPG

celica9303
01-26-2013, 04:04 AM
Cool! Which Apr flywheel bolts did you get? I was under the impression they aren't made for the 5sfe w/s53/54 trsns

Doowstados
01-26-2013, 04:30 AM
Cool! Which Apr flywheel bolts did you get? I was under the impression they aren't made for the 5sfe w/s53/54 trsns

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-203-2802-Flywheel-Bolt-Kit-Toyota-5S-FE-Celica-MR2-New-Light-Weight-Bolts-/200880298147?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec56618a3&vxp=mtr

ARP part number 203-2802.

They aren't listed as compatible in the current ARP catalog but according to this seller they should be the same size. I've double checked on a few other sites as well:

http://www.fmperf.com/arp-flywheel-bolt-kit-5sfe/
http://www.raceeng.com/p-5738-flywheel-bolts3tc4age5sfe10mm.aspx

And I can verify that the 4AFE and the 5SFE can indeed use the same flywheel:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy/products/94726-new-flywheel-by-perfection-clutch-part-50-108-flywheels-flexplates.html#fragment-2

So it would make sense that the bolts would be the same as well.

EDIT: AS I NOTED LATER IN THE THREAD, THESE ARP BOLTS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE 5FSE!

Doowstados
01-26-2013, 10:40 PM
And here we go!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/1D2045DC-8443-47A1-959D-3BCEF03D799C-768-00000053CB7A6C43.jpg

grimmythereaper
01-26-2013, 11:31 PM
Good luck man

Doowstados
02-03-2013, 10:21 AM
Quick update...

I got the shifter and shift cables put in today. Also got the old transmission out and the passenger side interior put back together. I blocked the hole for the automatic cable with a bolt pushed through a piece of hose, then wedged into the hole. It's airtight.

I couldn't get the flywheel in because (as someone mentioned to me) ARP does not make flywheel bolts for the 5SFE. Don't listen to anybody who says part # 203-2802 will work, they are wrong. There are many websites out there claiming this, but the diameter of the bolt is not enough to fill the manual flywheel. I am delayed for an entire week because of this.

I was spot on with the torque converter diagnosis, check out how much this expanded:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/4124881C-3E21-48C1-B0A4-D55153371A4A-6799-000002DDE8F6AEFD_zps64aac78a.jpg

Only had one hang up today, never did get this damn thing out:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/FF0F93B4-2B98-41D7-BA71-196EED17705F-6799-000002DDEC89B320_zps8285010e.jpg

Annnd a teaser for the next update:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/31DA5DBE-53FE-494A-B8AD-12E1ADAC94C8-7571-00000327720A78A5_zps9e65aee1.jpg

celica9303
02-04-2013, 01:52 AM
Pics to show why the arp bolts won't work?

Doowstados
02-04-2013, 03:22 AM
Pics to show why the arp bolts won't work?

I'm not in a position right now where I can get to the flywheel, but heres a comparison of the correct size to the ARP bolts I received. As you can see, the diameter is different just underneath the head of the bolt.

Correct flywheel bolt:

http://fautoparts.com/design/imagini/parts-Bolt-flywheel-ring-gear-carrier-TOYOTA-COROLLA-E12U-E12J-2-0-D-4D-ASHIKA---25-1079097-auto-parts.jpg

ARP bolt:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/doowstados/402F978F-BF3D-4D99-9330-E826D365077A-7571-00000368EB22E295_zps5281a951.jpg

pintoBC_3sgte
02-05-2013, 03:41 AM
i like that shift boot! where ya get it?

Doowstados
02-05-2013, 06:18 AM
i like that shift boot! where ya get it?

Thanks! It's just a cheap one from eBay.

Here's a link for ya: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230890221496?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

underscore
02-05-2013, 06:53 PM
i like that shift boot! where ya get it?

If you're gonna order one of those let me know, I want one too if you want to split shipping?

pintoBC_3sgte
02-05-2013, 08:03 PM
If you're gonna order one of those let me know, I want one too if you want to split shipping?

You wanna order and ill grab it from you when it gets here?

underscore
02-10-2013, 12:00 AM
You wanna order and ill grab it from you when it gets here?

It looks like that eBay store got closed? They don't have anything listed in their shop.

Doowstados
03-04-2013, 06:38 AM
It looks like that eBay store got closed? They don't have anything listed in their shop.

Looks that way. There are tons more around eBay that look the exact same, though. To be honest I tossed the shift knob because it felt like crap and found an OEM one at PaP. Feels much better.

Having a manual transmission in this thing is SO much better than the old automatic. Drove 100 miles to OC from San Diego today and loved every second of it, no more fighting the slush box to get passing power!

Doowstados
08-14-2014, 06:47 AM
Well, since the last update I put in a TWM short shifter and shift knob and have driven it 8,000-9,000 miles.

Still going strong.