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not12listen
03-25-2010, 07:51 PM
some on here are aware of my project... its been 3 years in the making, and is nearing the finish line!

it all starts with a 1986 Toyota Mr2. the poor 4AGE never stood a chance at long life, once the car was under my ownership. with 3 years of daily abusive driving, the 4AGE finally sang its final note.

prior to that event, i had already realized that just getting a replacement 4AGE would not suffice (longevity) or allow me to increase the limits placed upon my Mr2 because of the 4AGE. yes, i did reach the limit of the 4AGE... it is not just a HP limit, but more a torque limit than anything else.

so, after doing many hours of reading/research on different engines that i could run, and the overall characteristics of each engine, i settled on the 3SGE. this engine was chosen also because of the fact that it is 100% smog legal here in california, runs on 87 octane, is very inexpensive, parts are relatively easy to come by, etc.

i will post many pictures later that detail it from only moments after the engine arrived into my grubby hands, until where is rests currently.

i've already detailed much of the progress on Mr2oc, but most of the replies were those of unthinking 'kids' that didn't even bother to read my entire post before responding. basically, in the vein of 'get a 20v 4age' or 'get a turbo' etc. again, basically, its them not reading.

and with that, i'll close for the moment. later tonight, i'll post photos and more details as per how i came to the conclusion to use this engine.

joe's gt
03-26-2010, 01:07 AM
:worthless:

just playin with ya man. I read that you'll post them later. But :zxflipoff: for the tease. Can't wait to see it. Is this a dd, dedicated track car, or both?

andy
03-26-2010, 01:27 AM
^srsly

not12listen
03-26-2010, 02:47 AM
these first 6 pictures are from just moments after it arrived! you can see all the grime, dirt, etc that is layering the engine. and yes, it was from an Automatic Celica GTS.

it had an original 88,xxx miles on it. the previous owner was the literal 'little old lady' sort of deal. the car was totaled when an idiot plowed directly into the rear and wiped it out. i bought the complete engine with uncut harness for $450 total.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010045.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010046.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010047.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010049.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/before/P1010050.jpg

photos of some of the brand new parts i purchased for it.

brand new oil pump, water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner & spring. i also purchased the complete gasket overhaul kit (not pictured).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/p1010001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/P1010002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/P1010003.jpg

here are photos after the complete overhaul/rebuild of the engine.

SHINY! :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010039.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010040.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010041.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010042.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010043.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010044.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010045.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/after/P1010046.jpg

the absolute LAST photo of my AW11 with the 4AGE/C52 setup. it has served me well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/08152009/P1010014.jpg

photos of what the engine looks like currently... i have brand new timing belt covers too! i need to buy the '3SGE' badge too...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/P1010032-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/P1010033-1.jpg

just moments before the initial 'test fitment' was done...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2009-09-12/P1010047.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2009-09-12/P1010049.jpg

and yes! there is PLENTY of room for it to fit. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2009-09-12/P1010052.jpg

and THIS is why i cannot have another 4AGE in my AW11... this is result of me driving a low compression 4AGE (3 rib block) with 89 octane. it simply could not give me enough 'oomph' out of corners. so, i got very accustomed to sitting a hair under redline mid corner, to keep the balance of my Mr2 stable and manageable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/car%20repairs/piston/P1010004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/car%20repairs/piston/P1010003.jpg

joe's gt
03-26-2010, 07:03 AM
SWEEEET! You FUBAR'd those rings.

Hipster Lawrence
04-01-2010, 02:10 PM
Very cool. FYI doug, mr220v is doing a beams into an 86 right now.

not12listen
04-24-2010, 05:03 PM
last week, i was fiddling around with trying to make sure i had a good idea of what was missing etc. turns out one of the bolts that holds the EGR bucket to the intake manifold was snapped off inside. SUCKY.

so, last weekend, my wife, a buddy of ours and i went to pick n pull. i got another intake manifold, an exhaust manifold, and tons of misc nuts and bolts... oh, and i FINALLY have all of the fuel rail stand-offs! now i just need to source some 3sge injectors, then send them off to witch hunter to have them balanced. :)

today i will be test fitting the replacement intake manifold and exhaust manifold. woot woot! :)

not12listen
04-24-2010, 10:07 PM
alrighty... did some work on my 3sge this morning. here are the photos...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010048.jpg
original intake manifold

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010050.jpg
original intake manifold

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010049.jpg
replacement intake manifold - used a bit of degreaser and a small brush

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010051.jpg
replacement intake manifold - used a bit of degreaser and a small brush

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010052.jpg
both intake manifolds - side by side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010053.jpg
both intake manifolds - side by side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010054.jpg
rear of the engine

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010055.jpg
under the intake manifold

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-04-24/P1010056.jpg
top of the engine

jaydog82
04-25-2010, 06:40 AM
looking good man, i cant wait to ride in her

Shadowlife25
04-25-2010, 09:49 AM
Nice work man. :)

not12listen
04-25-2010, 05:24 PM
one thing i just realized... i've not posted pictures of the car itself!

so, here is a photo of it the day is came home with the new wheels and tires. :) oh, that was SOOO long ago...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/P1010020.jpg

full set of Kosei K1's with 205x50x15 Falken Azenis RT615's... of course, 2 1/2 months later, the tires were nearly bald and a VERY short time later, the engine gave up the ghost... and its been sitting ever since.

not12listen
04-25-2010, 07:09 PM
an age old dilemma was just solved! i was wondering if a 'non-a/c' tensioner existed, as my 3SGE AW11 will not have a/c at all, and the a/c belt also tensions the alternator. well, i did some fiddling this morning and, as it turns out, a different tensioner is not needed! :) i just need the shorter non-a/c belt. :)

i also mounted the oil pressure sensor and the engine hook near cylinder 4, as well as the alternator and accompanying brackets/tensioners. :) its actually looking like a nearly complete engine!

so the vacuum lines is the last large task. and then i get to learn where all the plugs from the wiring harness fit onto it. :)

then comes the joy of mounting it inside the AW11 chassis and fidgeting with the front and rear engine mounts ever so slightly... :)

i must say... i can ACTUALLY see light at the end of this tunnel... its damned odd too.

not12listen
05-15-2010, 07:00 PM
flywheel issue will be resolved soon (hopefully). then the whole setup will go together, and be placed into the engine bay.

once this happens, there ABSOLUTELY will be photos of the sexiness that is my 3SGE resting inside my AW11. :)

and once it runs and has gone through its 3000 mile break-in period, i will be able to terrorize the pesky ricers in this area. :)

not12listen
05-16-2010, 12:34 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/throwoutbearing.jpg
new Clutch Masters throw out bearing installed on a very dirty s54 transmission.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/flywheel.jpg
new Sachs OEM flywheel installed! (thanks go to Jordan for finding it local and half the cost of the other local parts store!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/clutch.jpg
brand new Clutch Masters Stage 1 clutch installed!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/3sges54.jpg
engine and transmission united! WOOHOO!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/3sges54-002.jpg
engine and transmission united! WOOHOO!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-05-15/clutchslavecylinder.jpg
clutch slave cylinder installed - just arrived today from ChicoRaceWorks! (thanks to josh for shipping it to me on such short notice!)

just found the bolts that hold the engine and transmission together inside my AW11... and now the engine and transmission are bolted together! OH HELL YEAH!!! this is HUGE progress for my swap!

jaydog82
05-17-2010, 05:54 AM
thanks for the props man, i'm glad i could help and i'm glad i found you 1 more engine to trans bolt. P.S. thats 1 sexy looking beast :)

not12listen
05-17-2010, 07:16 AM
thanks for the props man, i'm glad i could help and i'm glad i found you 1 more engine to trans bolt. P.S. thats 1 sexy looking beast :)

cock! i give credit where credit is due. :) be it GOOD or BAD. :)

Shadowlife25
05-17-2010, 11:07 AM
Josh at Chico Race Works is the man.
Everyone should do business with him.

That is all.

not12listen
06-18-2010, 12:45 AM
after some 'lack of motivation' and 'too busy with life' time, i finished the vacuum lines today! i double checked all of the vacuum diagrams i have and it appears that everything is exactly where it should be. now, i just need to run the throttle body coolant lines (yes, i will use these), replace all of the coolant lines, and put that setup into my AW11. :)

i must say, it feels GREAT to know that the vacuum lines are finished and that i do not have to worry about them anymore.

i used all brand new vacuum hose too. 5/32's. the stuff that the local store carries has the same inner diameter as factory, but the outer diameter is HUGE!!! i'll take comparison photos later on and post them.

jaydog82
06-18-2010, 04:26 AM
good stuff

not12listen
07-01-2010, 04:25 AM
the intake manifold and fuel rail were removed today and dropped off at the local machinist shop for a thorough cleaning!

the full set of injectors were shipped off to witch hunter performance today, and should arrive there friday!

and MANY THANKS to Jaydog82 for the info on the axles... the axles that were ordered today and will arrive friday! :)

HELL YEAH! huge progress made today!!! :) pix will be posted once the stuff comes back into my hands!

jaydog82
07-01-2010, 04:46 AM
sweet, i cant wait to ride in it and i bet you cant wait to drive it

not12listen
07-03-2010, 04:50 AM
waiting for this car, is something that i am unfortunately, very accustomed too.

intake manifold, fuel rail and the axles all arrived back into my hands today! :)

now... i just need those injectors. :)

photos coming up shortly!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-02/P1010027.jpg
Axles!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-02/P1010023.jpg
Cleaned Fuel Rail

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-02/P1010024.jpg
Cleaned Intake Manifold

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-02/P1010025.jpg
Cleaned Intake Manifold - Intake Port

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-02/P1010026.jpg
Cleaned Intake Manifold - Intake Runners

not12listen
07-04-2010, 01:01 AM
completely disassembled the clutch slave bracket, primered it all, then put on a coat of black Rust-o-leum. i'll post pix later.

btw - i entirely suck at spray painting (never tagged when i was younger...), and i'm sure someone will see mistakes i've made or bits i missed. it happens. :)

i'm just happy that it looks a LOT cleaner and that it wont rust. :)

oh yeah, i also hosed the throttle body assembly with loads of de-greaser and wiped it down... MUCH cleaner! :)

jaydog82
07-05-2010, 06:09 AM
nice

not12listen
07-07-2010, 08:02 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010025.jpg
old injector VS Witch Hunter cleaned injector

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010026.jpg
hot tanked fuel rail with the injectors installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010027.jpg
fuel rail and injectors installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010028.jpg
TVIS and intake manifold installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010029.jpg
fuel rail and intake manifold installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010030.jpg
intake manifold and throttle body installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010031.jpg
intake manifold and fuel rail installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010032.jpg
cleaned throttle body

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-07-06/P1010033.jpg
recently painted (Rust-Oleum) clutch slave cylinder

not12listen
07-10-2010, 03:18 PM
did some number crunching... presented are the gear ratios for the S54 transmission, and each gear's top speed at 7250rpm.

First Gear: 3.285:1 : 38
Second Gear: 1.960:1 : 63
Third Gear: 1.322:1 : 93
Fourth Gear: 1.028:1 : 120
Fifth Gear: 0.820:1 : 150

Final Drive: 4.176:1

Reverse Gear: 3.153:1

not12listen
07-24-2010, 08:02 PM
and now, i'm doing a bit of research and question asking, pertaining to whether i can run a 100amp Mr2 Turbo alternator on my 3sge setup or not... i really would prefer it.

the reasoning behind this is as follows:
with my 1999 Subaru 2.5RS i swapped in an 05 STi alternator. this bumped it from a 60amp to a 100amp alternator. the difference is that when at idle, i can turn on all of the body lights and my idle drops from 1000rpm to roughly 950rpm. with the factory 60amp alternator, at idle my rpms would go from 1000rpm to roughly 650rpm. beyond that, the dash lights seemed just a BIT brighter... 5% to 10% bright would be a rough guess. the upgraded amperage alternator did NOT impact the brightness of the body lights or headlights under normal driving conditions or idle.

and my last 'green' 295cc injector arrived a short while ago! going to off all the injectors (including the cold start injector) to Witch Hunter performance once a bit of cash becomes available. :)

---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------

ah brainstorm!!!!!!!!!!!!

i'm going to get the Mr2 Turbo alternator, then swap the pulley over from a 4 rib to a 5 rib from the Celica. :) ta da! :)

---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:02 PM ----------

ah brainstorm!!!!!!!!!!!!

i'm going to get the Mr2 Turbo alternator, then swap the pulley over from a 4 rib to a 5 rib from the Celica. :) ta da! :)

jaydog82
07-27-2010, 03:28 AM
the only thing i would worry about is the alt overcharging the battery. what kins of battery are you going to run?

not12listen
07-27-2010, 03:53 AM
uh... nothing special. :) and honestly, i've never heard of overcharging a battery. and my Subaru (despite all of its headaches) has never had an issue with it.

not12listen
08-21-2010, 08:30 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/P1010003-1.jpg
old timing belt covers

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/P1010004.jpg
timing belt exposed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/3sge/P1010005.jpg
new timing belt coves and engine badge

jaydog82
08-23-2010, 11:21 PM
looking nice man

not12listen
08-24-2010, 02:53 AM
yeah. but, its taking too long.

not12listen
08-24-2010, 05:19 AM
just sent an email to a local shop to see about the cost of having my intake manifold fully sand blasted and ceramic coated... then painted as stealth (ie. primer grey or similar) as possible...

heh heh... :) this should help to keep the intake and ambient temps down. :)

Cavanagh
08-25-2010, 07:48 PM
Looking good! Love the AW11 man, and damn, did you clean that 3S up! Nice work so far.

not12listen
08-25-2010, 08:33 PM
Looking good! Love the AW11 man, and damn, did you clean that 3S up! Nice work so far.

thanks. :) it's been a very long project, and i'm happy to see that it is getting close to finished.

yeah... the 3sge was sent off to a machinist for a full rebuild and inspection. that cost me a bit of cash, but it is well worth it. :)

not12listen
09-08-2010, 08:01 AM
tonight's progress!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010002.jpg
intake manifold removed - incorrect fuel injectors exposed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010003.jpg
intake manifold removed - incorrect fuel injectors removed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010004.jpg
cleaned and balanced fuel injectors and the oil to lube the o-rings

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010005.jpg
intake manifold removed - correct fuel injectors installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010006.jpg
intake manifold removed - correct fuel injectors and phenolic spacer installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010007.jpg
correct fuel injectors, intake manifold and phenolic spacer installe

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010008.jpg
correct fuel injectors, intake manifold and phenolic spacer installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-07/P1010009.jpg
correct fuel injectors, intake manifold and phenolic spacer installed

---------- Post added 09-08-2010 at 12:01 AM ---------- Previous post was 09-07-2010 at 10:57 PM ----------

forgot to post the specs of the newly cleaned and balanced the injectors...

0 of the 4 injectors were leaking upon arrival - 0 of the 4 were leaking afterward

all 4 injectors had good spray pattern upon arrival

static flow before: 1: 102 2: 98 3: 97.5 4: 97

static flow after: 1: 105.2 2: 101.5 3: 102 4: 101

pulsed flow before: 1: 120 2: 117.5 3: 116 4: 115

pulsed flow after: 1: 121 2: 120 3: 120.5 4: 120

cc/min @ 43.5 psi 1: 307.5 2: 304.5 3: 306 4: 303

static variance before: 4.9%

static variance after: 1.5%

pulsed variance before: 4.2%

pulsed variance after: 0.8%

btw - the factory injectors are rated at 290cc/min. so, i'm ahead of the curve already. :)

honestly, not a huge improvement across the board, but its still peace of mine and money well spent. :)

also, the cold start injector was cleaned and is all shiny! there are no flow benchmarks for it, as it is only used on initial startup, so the amount of fuel that is demanded from it is minimal.

jaydog82
09-08-2010, 11:51 PM
nice, did you look at the block to see if the ac will bolt to it?

not12listen
09-09-2010, 12:11 AM
i did not check... more concerned with getting it running ASAP. :)

jaydog82
09-09-2010, 07:26 AM
ya i hear that

---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

Here is a pic of the three AC bolt holes in my 5sfe
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr54/jaydog82celi/5sfeacbolts.jpg

not12listen
09-09-2010, 07:39 AM
my setup is identical.

jaydog82
09-09-2010, 03:26 PM
so the AC compressor will bolt to the block :) just get the bolts when you get the compressor. is your wiring harness and mr set up for AC?

not12listen
09-09-2010, 03:39 PM
so, the next question is... is the a/c compressor the same on the aw11 as the st162/st182?

i do not see what toyota would not use the same one, but i've not test fitted one yet. i'll poke around our collection and try test fitting one.

as per the wiring, i've not checked that either.

as you can see, i am dealing with problems/questions as they come up and NOT searching ahead. :)

jaydog82
09-09-2010, 07:32 PM
yup its all good, get it running and then deal with it :)

4thgenceli
09-09-2010, 07:45 PM
The compressor should fit, you'll prolly just have to swap the manifolds over.

not12listen
09-10-2010, 02:13 AM
The compressor should fit, you'll prolly just have to swap the manifolds over.

this might be a lack of info, but why would i need to swap over manifolds? correct me if i'm mistaken, but isn't the a/c system pretty much 'self contained' for the most part?

i mean in the sense that it requires no vacuum assistance, etc.

jaydog82
09-10-2010, 11:19 AM
idk about the manifolds, maybe he was talking about the exhaust manifold not fitting. i think you have to use the mr2 compresser, it has 4 ports for ac lines, the 5th gen celica one has 2 and the 4th gen has 4. so maybe the 4th gen too.

not12listen
09-11-2010, 02:58 AM
upon arriving at the office today, i was greeted with this green box.

instead of filling this with useless words, i'll let the photos do the talking. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010008.jpg



as anyone can guess, this is the FGK/Fujitsubo exhaust system that will be going onto my 3SGE. :)

jaydog82
09-11-2010, 07:23 AM
very nice, are you going to have it powder coated? or just wrap it in heat wrap. we carry a titanium heat wrap by DIE, that looks nice

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/medium/dei-010127_w.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ----------

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/dei-010127_w.jpg

not12listen
09-11-2010, 07:48 PM
i will not be putting on thermal wrap as you have pictured. i intend to drive on the header setup as it sits for the time being. once money becomes available, i will be sending off the whole setup to be ceramic coated.

if the shops recommends high temp thermal paint on top of that, then so be it. but, i am not going out of my way to get it painted.

the problem with thermal wrapping is that moisture gets caught in between the wrap and the header, and causes rust. ceramic coating does not as it is sprayed on like paint, then cooked in an oven to fully cure it.

jaydog82
09-12-2010, 07:11 AM
ya its all bad if you dont wrap it right and spray it with the high heat silicone spray, and powder coating looks much better :)

jaydog82
09-13-2010, 04:09 PM
so it looks like the AC compressor from the MR2-5th gen celica-4th gen celica are not the same. i think the mr2 comp might bolt to your block, and you might be able to use the comp from the 4th gen. the mr2- 4th gen have 4 ac ports on the comp. the 5th gen has 2 ac ports

not12listen
09-13-2010, 06:12 PM
jordan - you know me. the last thing that i'm concerned with is how something looks. i can about it performing its job above all else.

jaydog82
09-13-2010, 06:17 PM
yup, measurements of bolt holes and pulleys and a count of how many ac lines that need to bolt up to the compressor should tell us what compressor to use.

not12listen
09-14-2010, 04:12 AM
well, its a 1988 Celica GTS engine. :) and, when i've gone onto Napa's website, it'll show what other models a particular part also fits on. but, i've got a source for the compressor... just waiting for the stuff to arrive.

jaydog82
09-14-2010, 06:21 AM
cool

not12listen
09-18-2010, 07:32 PM
new fuel pump gasket - arrived and in hand!
new fuel pressure regulator - arrived and in hand!
new fuel pressure damper - ordered and shipped!
alternator - off the engine and going in for a core swap today.
alternator mounting bracket and tensioner - off the engine to be cleaning and painted with rusto-leum.

i'll take pix after the alternator stuff is done and back on the engine.

still need to order the fuel pump kit. i also need to remember to get a new fuel filter when i drop the engine into the car.

so... shift lines need to be tested. fuel lines also need to be test fit, but the AW11 ones should be plenty long enough. still need to source a throttle cable and get an assortment of coolant hose lengths for the primary coolant lines and the overflow tank.

then it's a new windshield, tires and full brake setup (ie. $900).

in my mind, it still seems like a LOT needs to be done, but i know that the list is actually small compared to what it was originally... but, i keep finding these small things that i didn't think about previously, like the fuel pressure regulator and damper.

not12listen
09-18-2010, 07:32 PM
double post? weird.

jaydog82
09-19-2010, 06:01 AM
the list looks good man

not12listen
09-22-2010, 05:04 AM
tonights progress...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-21/P1010013.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-09-21/P1010014.jpg

basically, the old exhaust manifold was removed. the alternator tensioner assembly was removed and spray painted with rust-oleum, the alternator was replaced with a re-manufactured Denso alternator, and the FGK 4-2 header and the rest of the alterantor bits were re-installed.

jaydog82
09-22-2010, 07:04 AM
looks good man, that exhaust manifold should have nice flow :)

not12listen
09-22-2010, 05:20 PM
yup! and thanks for the lead on the alternator. :)

i still have to remove all the stuff again and install the exhaust manifold gasket, get the header ceramic coated (emailed 2 shops) and install the OEM thermostat.

and, josh just informed me that the a/c compressor is being shipped out tomorrow!

and i just called dublin toyota. apparently there are a few new guys that work there. and unless i deal with the guy that i usually do, i do not get my discount. sucky! i say this sucks because i need to order 16 new wheel studs, as my current ones are... old and need to be replaced. :)

---------- Post added at 09:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

called dublin toyota - normal price on the wheel studs (for 16 total) is about $130.

just did some guestimation based on Lexus IS300 prices (closest to aw11 fitment) and it would be roughly $130 for all ARP studs.

so... i could get much stronger studs for about the same price... hmmm...

yeah. already emailed ARP for a quote on my exact fitment (custom order). hopefully, the price does not go up too much...

jaydog82
09-22-2010, 06:34 PM
nice, man

not12listen
09-26-2010, 12:18 AM
got all my wheel studs from toyota. 2 reasons: ARP never called back & i got on the phone with my usual guy at toyota. also ordered (and paid for) the 1 main engine mount bolt that i'm missing.

i even bolted down the driver's side seat in the Mr2, so i can sit in it and not have it shake around uncontrollably.

also... a/c compressor arrived and it is mounted onto the engine! OEM thermostat and OEM thermostat gasket are also installed. and it turns out that the BVSV is also broken... sucky.

ordering a new BVSV thursday. and i need to source an OEM type fuel pressure regulator, as toyota has discontinued mine and no locations in the US have one. :(

jaydog82
09-26-2010, 03:31 PM
gota love it.

not12listen
10-04-2010, 07:46 AM
today's progress:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010020.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010025.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010027.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010028.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010030.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010031.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010032.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010033.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010034.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010035.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010042.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-03/P1010044.jpg

jaydog82
10-04-2010, 03:36 PM
looking great, not much room in there. i hope your header fits

not12listen
10-04-2010, 04:08 PM
there is more room that it appears. the front engine bay firewall is angled - the header does not stick out much past the alternator or a/c compressor.

matt was saying something similar when he and i were putting it in. once he saw it resting, he was commenting that there was plenty of room. i then brought up 'imagine if there was a turbo there...' to which he replied "wow. that must be a nightmare."

so yeah. space is not a problem for the NA setup. :)

jaydog82
10-04-2010, 04:34 PM
ya that car turbo would be scary. even more you behind the wheel of that monster, lookout v8 dooshbags. :)

Facime
10-04-2010, 07:01 PM
seeing people under a car supported only by hydraulics makes me uncomfortable. Im glad you got the motor in there safely and back on the ground.

Eric Barrera
10-04-2010, 11:23 PM
^ I agree

not12listen
10-05-2010, 12:33 AM
trust me, i know exactly how stupid and dangerous it was doing it this way. if i had jack stands that would support it at that height, or even remotely close, you would see them in the pix.

but, alas, i do not. so, i make due with what i have. matt and i worked as safely and quickly as we could. the car was only at its highest point for about 15 minutes total. and there was quite a bit of time (which there are no photos of) where we had a standard floor jack being a secondary support for the car, while we were positioning the engine.

and, i more than anyone, am THRILLED beyond belief to have the engine safely inside the car and me out from under it. :)

jaydog82
10-05-2010, 06:23 AM
i know that feeling :)

Eric Barrera
10-06-2010, 12:24 AM
lol, that's the same feeling I had when my engine was in lol

not12listen
10-08-2010, 03:10 AM
my brand new fuel pressure regulator arrived today! i'm also replacing the fuel line between the fuel hardline and pressure regulator (got that line for free too!).

4 quick pix for those of you wondering what, if any, fitment issues exist with this setup and an FGK/Fujitsubo header...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-07/P1010046.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-07/P1010047.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-07/P1010048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2010-10-07/P1010049.jpg

jaydog82
10-08-2010, 05:49 AM
tight fit :) you may want to heat wrap the lines that are close to the header.

not12listen
10-08-2010, 05:57 AM
tight fit? there is about 2 or 2.5 inches of clearance between the header and the front-most firewall. the only lines that are near it are the coolant lines for the radiator and the lines for the heater core, shifter and a/c.

i might look into wrapping the lines in header wrap... which sounds odd, but whatever.

beyond that, the 4age header setup is just as close as this - factory and TRD parts alike. so, i'm not too worried. :)

jaydog82
10-08-2010, 04:42 PM
it looks closer than that :) there is a heat sleeve by DEI that works great. same type of heat covering that is used on the ac lines. we sell it at O'Reilly auto parts, it like $20 for a 3 ft section which you cut to fit.

not12listen
10-20-2010, 07:52 AM
after some thinking, then searching online for custom coolant hose solutions, i've found exactly what i need. i'll post up the details later. i still need to solve the damned heater core hoses though - because of their smaller diameter hose, the other solution will not work.

still need to buy a new starter, fuel pump, and then get my fuel lines replaced (with custom ones).

but, the coolant hoses was one of my biggest concerns. thankfully, with the solution that i have in mind, it will allow me to keep the factory AW11 overflow tank placement as well as the coolant filler neck placement too.

not12listen
10-20-2010, 09:31 PM
and my brand new braided steel clutch line just arrived! i cannot wait til this this is running... so much of this setup is brand new parts, and the likelihood of something going wrong is so minimal... for once, i'll car that should remain headache free for a good long time. :)

jaydog82
10-21-2010, 07:34 AM
that will be a nice change from the suby :P

jaydog82
10-21-2010, 07:35 AM
looks like they have heater lines too

not12listen
10-21-2010, 07:38 AM
looks like they have heater lines too

looks like i need to check their site in more detail! :)

----

uh... that is DAMNED expensive...

jaydog82
10-21-2010, 08:06 AM
yes it is

not12listen
10-22-2010, 07:11 AM
i'm looking into replacing the factory rubber heater core and fuel lines with braided steel teflon lines. mmyep. over doing it. :)

that is on top of the custom radiator lines too...

not12listen
10-26-2010, 04:49 PM
i've just sorted out where the starter will rest. on the Celica GTS, it rested beneath the exhaust manifold. but, this is a 1994 Mr2 NA transmission - and with the Mr2, the starter rests above the transmission. because of this, i now need a custom dust shield for the area where the starter would go on the celica (ie. under the exhaust manifold) as this leaves a big hole exposing the clutch/flywheel assembly. time to break out some cardboard to make a template!

thankfully, with the starter location sorted out, i now know that i can fully (and easily) assemble the exhaust without worries of the starter resting beneath it - otherwise, this would've been a huge PITA due to lack of space.

just ordered the mechanical speedo drive gear, the lower transmission dust shield and the bolt that holds the transmission and engine together (it goes behind the clutch slave cylinder) from Josh at ChicoRaceWorks!

also, my braided steel clutch line arrived the other day... once the weather allows me, i'll be installing that onto the Mr2. :) and i'm sending off the header to be cleaned up and thermal coated at the beginning of november! i will also be sending off my fuel feed/return lines to be custom made out of braided steel telfon coated lines. i am fully aware that this is absolute overkill - that is exactly why i'm doing it. i won't have to replace those lines again for the life of the car. :) and they won't absorb or dissipate anything at all.

still need to get a fuel pump from the 89 Celica GTS and a battery, then the coolant and heater core lines...

not too shabby of a list overall...

not12listen
10-28-2010, 07:47 AM
a while ago, i gave my boss a set of Osram Nightbreaker H4 headlight bulbs for his 2008 Tundra. he could not believe the difference that those bulbs made - he kept going on about how BRIGHT they were and how he could see a LOT farther than with the factory bulbs.

well, the Nightbreakers are a performance bulb and one has already burned out (he drives with his lights on during the day and it has been nearly a year). so, while rummaging through my collection of random stuff, i found a set of Hella 60/55 H4 bulbs. factory replacements basically. so, i'm going to give them to him. that got my memory jogging... i had mentioned to him a set of Narva 130/100 H4 bulbs - they're only legal for OFFROAD use and come with a very clear warning that if the headlight housing or lens is plastic, it WILL melt it.

well, the good thing for Celica/Mr2 (and anyone with H6054 housings) owners is that the H4 upgrade housing is metal and glass! i'm sure everyone that is reading this, can see the direction i'm going with this. :)

anyone wishing to utilize those bulbs (*cough*ebay*cough*), MUST upgrade the headlight wiring first (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) with a RELAY type setup and 10 gauge (perhaps thicker?) wiring.

of course, i would NEVER think of doing this exact setup to my Mr2 and/or Starlet for daily driving usage...

jaydog82
10-28-2010, 05:34 PM
no... you would never do that.........

Aaron Willis
10-29-2010, 05:39 PM
This is looking like a super cool swap. I've thought about this setup many times. Should be a really nice combination once it's set up correctly.



...i had mentioned to him a set of Narva 130/100 H4 bulbs - they're only legal for OFFROAD use and come with a very clear warning that if the headlight housing or lens is plastic, it WILL melt it...Ha! I have a set of those I bought years ago and never got the courage to install. Won't melt my glass Cibie H4s but they may garner more attention than I want from the revenuers.

not12listen
11-02-2010, 05:27 AM
just did some comparing of the AW11 and ST162 BGBs that i have here. i was uncertain if the fuel went to the fuel pressure regulator OR fuel dampener first...

as it turns out, the AW11 and ST162 fuel system are set up identically... fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure dampener, fuel rail, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and finally back to the fuel tank.

that solves an important mystery. :) yeehaw!

not12listen
11-03-2010, 02:23 AM
just got some parts from Josh @ ChicoRaceWorks.

transmission lower dust shield, transmission to engine bolt and the mechanical speedo gear!

my header should be arriving at the ceramic coating shop tomorrow... no idea how long until it comes back. hopefully a week or less. :)

also sent out payments for replacement AW11 fuel feed & return lines (mine are not complete) and MKII Mr2 shifter lines (AW11 shifter lines are too short).

not12listen
11-05-2010, 01:20 AM
This is looking like a super cool swap. I've thought about this setup many times. Should be a really nice combination once it's set up correctly.


Ha! I have a set of those I bought years ago and never got the courage to install. Won't melt my glass Cibie H4s but they may garner more attention than I want from the revenuers.

sorry that i skipped over your reply...

thanks for the complements on my swap. :) i'm sure it'll be fun to drive.

if you've not read all the posts leading up to this, because i live in CA, i was VERY limited on what engine choices i had... and, honestly, this was the best suited (from my reading) to what i wanted. and that IS counting all those fabulously illegal JDM engines. :) granted, i'd love to have a 2nd gen 3sge intake... and have the additional intake runner length (ie. TORQUE), but i'm sure what i have now, will do just fine. :)

beyond all that, i don't think that i've ever seen anyone go to the level of detail that i have (ie. balancing the injectors, new fuel pressure regulator + damper, etc). most tend to just run with what they have...

i will be purchasing the Cibie H4 housings (or similar) as well... along with upgrading the wiring to 10gauge, perhaps 8gauge...

Luni
11-05-2010, 01:40 AM
Have you bought the mounts you need to get the engine mounted into the car (the custom ones the 3SGTE guys use)?

not12listen
11-05-2010, 02:38 AM
Have you bought the mounts you need to get the engine mounted into the car (the custom ones the 3SGTE guys use)?

factory mounts were 'gently' removed from the chassis back in late spring. the 'Speed-Source' mounts were welded in back in july. engine is already mounted in the engine bay. front and rear mounts need a bit of touch up work, but nothing major.

jaydog82
11-05-2010, 04:29 AM
looking good man

Aaron Willis
11-05-2010, 07:10 PM
if you've not read all the posts leading up to this, because i live in CA, i was VERY limited on what engine choices i had...Understood. I was in the same boat when I decided to do a 7AGE, and for the same reasons.



i will be purchasing the Cibie H4 housings (or similar) as well...They are a really excellent headlight. Not a novelty light, not cute or trick-looking, but they WORK. You will be very happy with them!

not12listen
11-06-2010, 01:22 AM
Understood. I was in the same boat when I decided to do a 7AGE, and for the same reasons.
the problem with the 7AGE - the rods are the weak point. apparently, there are some Honda rods which are exact replacements, but they're MUCH stronger... and the 7AGE is not an official 'engine' - any PICKY smog tech would not be too thrilled.

They are a really excellent headlight. Not a novelty light, not cute or trick-looking, but they WORK. You will be very happy with them!
i've not read many reviews on them. so, its tough to drop $150 randomly... what is the beam pattern like? do they have a precise horizontal cut-off, or does the light bleed upwards?

Luni
11-06-2010, 07:18 AM
Autopals are just as good and cheaper.

not12listen
11-06-2010, 04:39 PM
Autopals are just as good and cheaper.

i've seen the beam pattern of the Autopals, and i'm not too impressed honestly.

so, when money is available, i'll get a pair of the Cibie h6054/H4 housings and install them onto my Mr2 and compare them to the Autopals side by side... and if they're the same, then i just spent $150 without good reason too...

Aaron Willis
11-06-2010, 04:46 PM
I'll try not to sidetrack the thread, and I'm not saying you made a mistake choosing a 3S over a 7A by any means, but I do want to clarify and correct some common misconceptions about the 7AGE while I have the opportunity.


the problem with the 7AGE - the rods are the weak point.According to those who've never built one, and/or those who simply regurgitate the WAGs and speculation of others, the rods are made of Bondo and won't survive at anything above a fast idle. Thankfully, that perspective is not based on fact. In the real world, it is flatly not true as far as any pratical/streetable build is concerned. It's simply a very tired, very old, oft-repeated rumor/assumption that people cling to because they read it on the internet.

I've been flirting with 8000 RPM on stock rods for six years now and have had absolutely no indication of trouble. Now if you were boosting the engine and/or regularly spinning it to genuinely silly RPM, then the rods would probably be the first thing to fail and of course you'd want something better - but that can be said of any engine. And at that point, your concerns about smog legality would also be out the window...


and the 7AGE is not an official 'engine' - any PICKY smog tech would not be too thrilled.Technically, that's correct. in practice, though, no smog tech who isn't also a retired Toyota powertrain engineer (in which case, he'd have absolutely no reason to take a low-paying job as a sniffer jockey) would suspect a thing. If I had any money, I'd bet it all that he wouldn't be able to tell that the engine wasn't stock or point out why if you gave him all day to do the research and a team of bloodhounds to sniff out the details.



i've not read many reviews on them. so, its tough to drop $150 randomly... what is the beam pattern like? do they have a precise horizontal cut-off, or does the light bleed upwards? They have the sharpest cutoff I've seen out of any H4 on low beam. You also get the 15-degree flare to the right to catch road signs and pedestrians on low beam. The vertical separation between low and high beam is a lot closer than on a lot of other lamps, which is ideal for cars with low-mounted headlights, as opposed to motorcycles and pickups. The benefit is that the low beam and high beam are both useful; with some H4 lights, adjusting your low beams up where you want them puts the high beams in the treetops, and setting the high beam where you want it shoves the low beams into the pavement right in front of the car. There are other attributes that aren't immediately obvious, like consistent quality control, lead crystal lenses, etc. Like I said, they're not glamourous, but they WORK.

I have better lights in my car than in my house. But then my house won't do 140 MPH...



Autopals are a lot better than sealed beams and are pretty good for the price, but Cibies are betterMind if I tune that up a little bit for you?

Autpals are a fine choice for someone on a budget, but they don't (IMO) compare to Cibies.

not12listen
11-11-2010, 01:55 AM
i admit, that the weak rods that i've heard so much about, it pure internet-speak. i have no personal experience with them. and your perspective does make a lot of sense. and yes, that opinion (weak rods) was always in the realm of a supercharged/turbo'd engine. i will refrain from making such obviously uninformed posts concerning that topic.

here in CA, if a tech does flag your car as 'illegal' for whatever reason, you get a handy dandy free visit to the state ref. the state ref will inspect the engine in absolute detail... if they find that it is illegal, it goes off to the impound yard... yay! but, i do agree that the likelihood is VERY SLIM. i'm still not taking that chance. :)

ya know... i've read many, many words and articles on danielsternlighting.com and his information has proven accurate so far. i've no reason to believe that he would sell junk parts or give out mis-information. and, by your description, they sound like a great setup.

not12listen
11-11-2010, 04:46 AM
my MKII Mr2 shifter cables came in today.

so this weekend, if time permits, i'll be installing the lower transmission dust shield, the last engine to transmission bolt (behind the clutch slave cylinder), the braided steel clutch line and shifter cables.

i might even give the throttle cable installation a try...

jaydog82
11-11-2010, 05:12 AM
fun

Aaron Willis
11-11-2010, 05:48 PM
but, i do agree that the likelihood is VERY SLIM. i'm still not taking that chance. :)Understood. I did have the benefit of a smog tech who, while insistent that the car pass a visual and tailpipe inspection to the letter of the law, was not interested in examining the car any more thoroughly than he would any other. The possibility for serious trouble does exist. Your swap is the more practical approach, and should have better results as well. I am really excited about it.



ya know... i've read many, many words and articles on danielsternlighting.com and his information has proven accurate so far. i've no reason to believe that he would sell junk parts or give out mis-information. and, by your description, they sound like a great setup.I was just noticing last night that one of the things I like most about my Cibies is that the light on low beam is very evenly dispersed all the way up to the cutoff. There are no real hot spots or shadows. I'm not sure how well I can convey that in a photo but I can try it if you like. The usual shots lighting up a garage door at ten feet away, or a row of parked cars on a residential street, don't really give a good representation IMO.

not12listen
11-12-2010, 03:12 AM
Understood. I did have the benefit of a smog tech who, while insistent that the car pass a visual and tailpipe inspection to the letter of the law, was not interested in examining the car any more thoroughly than he would any other. The possibility for serious trouble does exist. Your swap is the more practical approach, and should have better results as well. I am really excited about it.

you are a very lucky guy to have such a 'lax' smog tech. :) my swap is one of necessity... i hate the lag of turbos, and do not like the INSTANT hit of supercharger power. too much too late and too much too soon, is how it boils down. the 5sfe is not an engine i would ever want to touch... not nearly strong enough for how i drive, and the top end is pathetic. and its method of developing power is NOT too my liking at all.



I was just noticing last night that one of the things I like most about my Cibies is that the light on low beam is very evenly dispersed all the way up to the cutoff. There are no real hot spots or shadows. I'm not sure how well I can convey that in a photo but I can try it if you like. The usual shots lighting up a garage door at ten feet away, or a row of parked cars on a residential street, don't really give a good representation IMO.

if you'd like to take photos, i'd be more than happy to check them out and roughly attempt to compare them to what my wife has (ie. Autopals). :) if her's really are that much worse, i'll be upgrading her lights too... :) but, regardless, the Cibie's are going in my AW11. :)

not12listen
11-12-2010, 03:13 AM
btw - aaron, how is that braided steel clutch line doing for you? :)

Aaron Willis
11-12-2010, 06:00 PM
you are a very lucky guy to have such a 'lax' smog tech.I'm not sure I'd call him 'lax'. He was just willing to assume that a car that looked stock, sounded stock, and had all its original stock gadgetry in place and functional was probably not worth dissecting!



...its method of developing power is NOT too my liking at all.A big, strong, NA engine is a very satisfying setup.



if you'd like to take photosCan do.



btw - aaron, how is that braided steel clutch line doing for you?Ha! That was you? It's lovely, but it hasn't gone into the car yet. Still sitting here beside me. It'll probably go in when I do the C160 swap.

not12listen
11-12-2010, 07:54 PM
I'm not sure I'd call him 'lax'. He was just willing to assume that a car that looked stock, sounded stock, and had all its original stock gadgetry in place and functional was probably not worth dissecting!
by the standards that i've gone through personally, that IS lax. :)


A big, strong, NA engine is a very satisfying setup.
try telling that to the 'dumb kids' that adhere strictly to the 'if you dont have a turbo, its slow and worthless' dogmatic practice. to me, it seems like they've forgotten that not everything is a straight line or 1/4 mile.

every comparison i've read concerning a 5sfe VS a 3sge, the 3SGE is always stronger, faster, has more potential, etc...


Can do.
awesome! thank you!


Ha! That was you? It's lovely, but it hasn't gone into the car yet. Still sitting here beside me. It'll probably go in when I do the C160 swap.
yup! i saw your handle and then recognized it from the Mr2 mailing list... and i put 2 and 2 together. c160... i'd check the clutch slave cylinder and see if it is a male or female end.

for the aw11, the clutch hose is female on both ends, but the sw20 uses a male on the hardline/chassis side and female on the clutch slave side... hence why i could not use that line (s54 transmission from a 94 Mr2 NA).

Aaron Willis
11-12-2010, 08:06 PM
I'm using the slave cyl. from the AW11. No worries there. But that's enough sidetrackery. Back to your build!

not12listen
11-12-2010, 08:09 PM
no worries. the build is progressing. :)

i should have some time this weekend to get some more odds and ends done. if anything of value occurs, i'll post pix of said progress.

Facime
11-12-2010, 08:46 PM
try telling that to the 'dumb kids' that adhere strictly to the 'if you dont have a turbo, its slow and worthless' dogmatic practice. to me, it seems like they've forgotten that not everything is a straight line or 1/4 mile.

Properly selected, set up, and tuned turbos dont have to be laggy, and dollar for dollar are really the only practical way to make BIG power. If big power isnt your goal then N/A is fine. I happen to really enjoy touge driving and a really torqey engine can out perform a more powerful turbo motor quite easily for that application. Ive had several mk3 supras and for touge I preferred my mostly stock 7MGE over the moderatly built GTE for that application alone. Having said that my turbo would embarass cars that my N/A had no right going up against. I also really liked driving my 87 GTS and have owned a mk1 MR2...so I can see the appeal of that combination.

Not all turbo lovers are "dumb kids" though, and I find it just as frustrating watching people struggle in vain to reach unrealistic power goals on N/A engines. I mean, how many "ricers" do you see with CAI's, silicone tubing, and fart cans claiming %50 power increases over stock? Too many unfortunately.

You seem like you have a really well thought out plan and that you have very clearly defined what you want from your car/build. That should be enough for the critics.

not12listen
11-12-2010, 09:02 PM
Properly selected, set up, and tuned turbos dont have to be laggy, and dollar for dollar are really the only practical way to make BIG power. If big power isnt your goal then N/A is fine. I happen to really enjoy touge driving and a really torqey engine can out perform a more powerful turbo motor quite easily for that application. Ive had several mk3 supras and for touge I preferred my mostly stock 7MGE over the moderatly built GTE for that application alone. Having said that my turbo would embarass cars that my N/A had no right going up against. I also really liked driving my 87 GTS and have owned a mk1 MR2...so I can see the appeal of that combination.

Not all turbo lovers are "dumb kids" though, and I find it just as frustrating watching people struggle in vain to reach unrealistic power goals on N/A engines. I mean, how many "ricers" do you see with CAI's, silicone tubing, and fart cans claiming %50 power increases over stock? Too many unfortunately.

You seem like you have a really well thought out plan and that you have very clearly defined what you want from your car/build. That should be enough for the critics.

thank you for the kind words. :)

i drive a 3sgte alltrac camry every day, and i've driven more than a few turbo'd cars in my time - stock, lightly modified and obviously modified. :)

i fully understand that turbo's are more efficient for producing power, but as you can guess, big power is not my goal. :) 135hp @ the crank is about what i'm hoping for. i am more looking for a broader powerband. the 4age was a bit too peaky, and only REALLY came alive over 5000rpms.

i've met many turbo'd owners that are brilliant people with outstanding setups, and cars that handle crisply. and i do respect the amount of time, effort, money and energy that goes into making a setup of that nature work so well.

unfortunately, the critics, for the most part, are those under-informed 'dumb kids' that adhere to the aforementioned brainless chanting. :) but, the more knowledgeable people (IMO), have given comments and criticism that was both intelligent and useful. :)

Facime
11-12-2010, 09:13 PM
Oh I know, Ive witnessed and been the target of plenty of N/A bashing on the supra forums. I eventually caved to it myself and genuinely HATED my supra turbo by the time I sold it But boost is addictive, and so is the quest for power. I have a couple of friends that are well over 600hp in RWD setups and imho, those cars are just no fun to own in the PacNW...you cant ever drive em. Their wow factor quickly wears off at that point.

Coming from big V8 background its not in my nature to rev very hard so I agree the 4A was never a good fit for me and part of the reason I sold my 2. I absolutely LOVE my alltrac though and think its the perfect fit for me. That is the key right there though, finding the perfect fit for each of us. Sometimes you have to think out of the box to make that work. I would love to get a ride in your 2 when its done though ;)

not12listen
11-12-2010, 09:43 PM
Oh I know, Ive witnessed and been the target of plenty of N/A bashing on the supra forums. I eventually caved to it myself and genuinely HATED my supra turbo by the time I sold it But boost is addictive, and so is the quest for power. I have a couple of friends that are well over 600hp in RWD setups and imho, those cars are just no fun to own in the PacNW...you cant ever drive em. Their wow factor quickly wears off at that point.

Coming from big V8 background its not in my nature to rev very hard so I agree the 4A was never a good fit for me and part of the reason I sold my 2. I absolutely LOVE my alltrac though and think its the perfect fit for me. That is the key right there though, finding the perfect fit for each of us. Sometimes you have to think out of the box to make that work. I would love to get a ride in your 2 when its done though ;)

600whp... eh. my penis isn't THAT small. and you're going to love the plate that is on my Mr2: ih8trbo

trying to find a balance for your particular driving IS very difficult... the sweet spot of my 4age was 6600rpms. but, the engine will not last very long always spinning that high.

and you're more than welcome to come along for a ride when its done. :)

not12listen
11-13-2010, 08:15 AM
did a bit of research. when the money becomes available, i'll be purchasing a Quaife qdf15e differential. :) it should help me keep the power at the wheels, instead of spitting out behind the wheels in smoke and shreds...

$800 for a diff though... its going to be a while before THAT sort of cash is available...

not12listen
11-14-2010, 04:30 PM
this is something that i'll be seriously considering very soon.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23901/
OR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-24-046/


perhaps talk to my fab buddy about something like this in conjunction with the above. :)
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=15804

not12listen
11-18-2010, 03:14 AM
header arrived today!!!

it is already bolted onto the engine. :) i'll post more pix tomorrow. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010012.jpg

jaydog82
11-19-2010, 04:34 PM
looks great

4agetercel
11-20-2010, 05:23 AM
header looks wayyyyy better, looking good

not12listen
11-21-2010, 06:02 AM
here are the photos of the header on the engine...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010013.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/exhaust/P1010016.jpg

Facime
11-21-2010, 06:36 AM
Is that ceramic coated or are you planning on wrapping it?

not12listen
11-21-2010, 07:36 AM
Is that ceramic coated or are you planning on wrapping it?

ceramic coated up to 2000 degrees fahrenheit. no real need to wrap them.

Facime
11-21-2010, 07:07 PM
gotcha, couldnt tell, its the first time Ive seen anyone ceramicoat in primer gray color ;)

I might still recommend some wrapping or otherwise heat shielding down where your fuel lines enter the engine bay, just for additional safety. If you have the stock plastic covers they make for a good base to stick on some adhesive heat barrier.

not12listen
11-21-2010, 07:44 PM
gotcha, couldnt tell, its the first time Ive seen anyone ceramicoat in primer gray color ;)

I might still recommend some wrapping or otherwise heat shielding down where your fuel lines enter the engine bay, just for additional safety. If you have the stock plastic covers they make for a good base to stick on some adhesive heat barrier.

i chose that color on purpose - the other color they offered (that i recall) was black. i do not want my header to draw any unwanted attention. beyond that, i still have the option of having a custom head shield made for my header setup, so that it'll look even more like stock.

in the last photo, you can see the resistor pack for the original aw11 injector setup (up to the left of the header). just beneath the resistor pack is the fuel filter which provides the feed and return line is next to the fuel filter. i'm having the lines re-manufactured out of braided steel with telfon (interior and exterior) coatings. i intend of having my fuel lines longer than factory, so i can route them over the transmission mount (left most side of the last photo), which would pull them away from the primary heat source (the header).

due to the properties of ceramic coating (ie. keeping heat controlled - in this case, severely limiting radiant heat), heat wrapping will not be required for my fuel lines. though, it is not a bad idea.

Facime
11-21-2010, 09:42 PM
Yeah I can tell you know what you are doing, but part of the idea of coveing the fuel lines in their stock location is about having an extra layer of protection between fuel source and heat source mainly in the case of leaks since there is fittings in that area. If the fuel lines were just solid lines with no possible leak locations it would be far less important. Since the fuel lines are under fairly high pressures at that point, any leak will spray fuel and ceramic coated or not, a mist of fuel in that location would be a really bad thing.

not12listen
11-21-2010, 10:37 PM
well, i have ideas, and i want to overbuild the factory setup. i understand your concern concerning spraying fuel.

the lines will be made out of a single piece of hose each (from end to end), which does differ from the factory hose, but i'm also going far above and beyond the factory setup. :) being that i plan on having the fuel feed line run out over the transmission, then into the fuel damper, heat will not be an issue and both ends of the fuel feed hose are solid fitted (banjo bolts) and bolted into place - leaks are not a specific concern on that hose. the fuel return hose though, is just 'slipped' over the fuel pressure regulator output end and onto the fuel return hard line. both will get worm-gear style clamps - peace of mind.

not12listen
12-02-2010, 05:59 PM
i emailed Canton Racing, to get an idea of exactly what parts would be necessary for the pre-oiling system. turns out to be roughly $670 (before shipping) setup.

it includes all mounting brackets, the electronic pressure control valve, oiling tank, an oil cooler and all the lines and fittings.

so, i'll be buying a part or 2 at a time, as i can't just drop over $700 at once.

jaydog82
12-03-2010, 06:13 PM
nice, thats a chunk of change.

not12listen
12-05-2010, 01:22 AM
as of just a short while ago, i officially have a working shifter that engages each gear!

i removed the original AW11 shifter cables, as they were too short, and installed SW20 (NA) shifter cables, as they are longer.

while, it is wonderful to have a working shifter again, unfortunately the 'forward/reverse' selection cable is a bit too short - about 3/4 of an inch. a small obstacle. :) if time/weather permits, i'll swap out the electronic speedo gear and put in the mechanical speedo gear in its place, then attach the speedo cable accordingly.

not12listen
12-06-2010, 09:51 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBRO-190-LPH-FUEL-PUMP-KIT-TOYOTA-MR2-MR-2-1991-1995-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27a22f662aQQitemZ17022 4739882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

next up on the purchase list.

Facime
12-06-2010, 10:23 PM
I personally wouldnt run a walbro. They are notoriously loud especially if youve ever "stressed" one by running it out of fuel or running it in a slightly restrictive system. I would get a factory supra TT pump from toyota or for a cheap alternative get a TREperformance version of it. Even if you dont want the 255LPH volume of it you could still get a non TT supra pump.

In a 2, that pump is going to be screaming under your seat...

not12listen
12-06-2010, 10:33 PM
i daily drive my wife's alltrac turbo camry - it has a walbro 255lph fuel pump. even at idle, or revving the engine up to 4000rpm, i cant here it. granted, it IS on the opposite side of the car.

but, with the AW11, the exhaust is literally on the other side of the firewall from my head and its already fairly loud (with the 4age)... :)

i would buy the fuel pump new, so, no need to worry about whether is has been run without fuel or on a restrictive system (i'm upgrading the fuel system a bit too).

i do understand and appreciate your advice of getting a factory Denso fuel pump instead, and that was my original idea. unfortunately, the time for it to ship and cost, make the Walbro look much more attractive of an idea.

$90 shipped for the Walbro or $130 (with $35 core included) from Rockauto.

i have to state my own hypocrisy real quickly... when asked about the timeline for my Mr2's completion, i say: "it's done when it's done." and here i am basically bitching about ship time of a part... so yeah. mainly, its the annoyance of the cost and core fee.

Facime
12-07-2010, 03:36 AM
Im running a TREperformance pump in my alltrac and its dead silent, cheaper than a walbro too. They shipped mine fast as well.
http://treperformance.com/c-177-fuel-system-tre-255-lph-fuel-pumps.html

(for the MR2: http://treperformance.com/i-649-toyota-mr2-255-lph-fuel-pump-1985-1995.html )

not12listen
12-07-2010, 04:09 PM
i've spoken with Josh from Chicoraceworks, and he highly recommends against such a strong fuel pump (255lph). he instead recommends something more 'factory' oriented... hence the 190lph fuel pump.

again, my first choice is a Denso unit. but, i also have to begin purchasing parts for my accu-sump pre-oiling system, which is not cheap at all.

but, the last thing i wish to do is cut any corner, and end up paying in more downtime or more unwanted repairs.

Facime
12-07-2010, 08:12 PM
Im not trying to push you in any direction, just making suggestions.
Alot of people stopped using walbros after it was discovered that a huge portion of them are chinese knock offs. The reputable sellers I know selling 100% guarrantied walbros sell them for $99, but maybe the 190LPH pump is less? :dunno:
lastly, TRE sell a stock replacement as well that is likely a 190. I did my research before buying one and couldnt find anyone that had a complaint about them.
...again, just offereing a FWIW

not12listen
12-07-2010, 08:21 PM
i don't take any offense to suggestions at all, and i do not take your words as trying to push me any direction. :)

ultimately, regardless of anyone's words, i'll go whichever direction makes the most sense to me. if it happens to be OEM purchased from Toyota or the TRE or Walbro, i have to deal with the consequences.

as you can guess, i'm just looking for something that is basically 100% stock (for this engine), but if i can find something slightly better AND at a lower cost, then i'll go for it.

not12listen
12-14-2010, 08:34 PM
i purchased a full MKII shifter base and lever from Josh @ Chicoraceworks and swapped over just the lever. i did not want to drill the MKII mounting plate, hence why i did not use it.

anywho... swapped over the shifter lever and removed the drop plate that was added to my MKI shifter mounting plate. now, i can shift normally into each gear!

i am NOT using the drop plate as i personally saw/felt no advantage whatsoever. it DOES relocate the entire shift lever 3/8" lower than stock -from what i can tell, it does NOT shorten the throw of the shifter at all. if someone is interested in it, i am willing to sell it.

so far my setup is: 3sge engine (86-89 celica gts) + s54 transmission (MKII Mr2 NA), MKII shifter cables, MKI shifter mounting plate, MKII shift lever.

just to be clear, swapping over the shifter lever is VERY simple:
remove the center tunnel cover (philips head screw driver + possibly remove the seats)
4x12mm bolts (holding the mounting plate to the chassis)
4x12mm bolts + 2x12mm nuts (holding the shifter lever assembly to the mounting plate)

if anyone wants photos, let me know and i'll post some up.

if the weather allows, this weekend, i will working on this list:
reinstall the center tunnel cover and storage box
bolt the driver side seat to the chassis
install the braided steel clutch line + bleed the clutch
remove all the factory wheel studs (many are snapped or rusted)
install the new factory wheel studs + new lug nuts
install the accelerator cable and pedal

jaydog82
12-15-2010, 04:34 PM
sounds like a good list man.

celica9303
12-20-2010, 02:31 AM
Cool project man! I'm looking at an 86 chassis(no motor or trans), for a fun side project aka toyota go cart! Check out my thread in OT about it and add anything else you feel necessary as I don't want to cluter up this thread....thanks and good luck finishing it soon your on the home stretch

not12listen
12-24-2010, 06:24 PM
just purchased my Walbro 190lph fuel pump! should arrive early next week... and then, it'll sit in a box until i drop the fuel tank and have it chemically neutralized (dipped) and cleaned. at the same time, i will be inspecting the coolant hard lines that run under the fuel tank. i want to make sure they're in good condition and not rusted from the inside out.

not12listen
12-31-2010, 05:33 PM
just purchased my Magnecor 8.5mm ignition wires.

also, contacted a special company about my coolant hoses... i should hear back from them on monday. once these are officially ordered, i'll post up a link to their website, so everyone can check them out if they want.

not12listen
01-12-2011, 05:27 AM
my Magnecor 8.5mm wires arrived today! all i gotta say is: HOLY CRAP!!! these things are HUGE compared to the factory wires!

if anyone wants photos of the wires, let me know and i'll post some.

Grot
01-12-2011, 05:30 AM
Any benefit to running larger wires? i have a 1g 3sge im interested if there is any real gain

not12listen
01-12-2011, 05:36 AM
my reasoning for getting these wires was not for power gains. i did it for reliability and durability. that is also the reason why i chose to install the phenolic spacer - reliability.

factory wires are designed to be replaced every 5-10 years. these wires are designed to never be replaced.

Grot
01-12-2011, 06:00 AM
Yea, where did you get them from?

Hell, i need to time mine right before i modify it.

not12listen
01-12-2011, 06:05 AM
http://lightningmotorsports.com/magnecor/magnecor_kv85_competition_85mm_plug_wires/45174/i-61163.aspx

Facime
01-12-2011, 07:43 AM
I ran the same wires on my 7MGTE. My reason for buying them was they were red....lol.

not12listen
01-20-2011, 03:32 AM
this evening saw some minor progress. i removed the shifter assembly and completely disassembled it, regreased every bit of it (with high temp/pressure red grease), then reassembled it.

i'm glad i did... i found some small pieces of glass inside the plastic shifter base bucket. NOT GOOD. thankfully, it appears that no real damage has occurred to the bucket or bottom shifter ball.

after reassembling the entire setup and attaching the shifter cables, i went through the motions of shifting into each gear... smooth as silk!

if time permits this weekend, i will replace all of the 24 year old factory wheel studs and replace them with the brand new factory wheels studs that i have... :) sometime down the road, i'll replace those with ARP wheel studs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7715

those in specific. :)

not12listen
01-23-2011, 06:28 PM
a very important step has been completed! the original shifter length was too short, so 2nd, 4th and reverse would all strike the backing plate and not allow me fully into those gears.

friday, Jordan and went to True Value, Momument Car Parts and Home Depot, searching for parts that would allow me to add about 1/2 inch to the shifter throw. not a single piece was sourced - everything was in standard... FAIL.

on saturday, i took a trip over to OSH. again, nothing. they recommended O'Reilly. i figured "what the hell? it couldn't hurt..." i went to the 'nuts and bolts' section and began my hunt.

low and behold, a 'water pump stud kit' had EXACTLY what i needed! some threaded rod (about 1 inch long), some lock washers and some miscellaneous bolts - everything in M6 1.0 pitch!

after testing fitting everything together, i did the test fit on the car. too long. so, out came the dremel with a cutting wheel... back and forth, etc... always just a bit too long. the light was gone, as was my time to work on it.

finally, this morning, i bust out the dremel and cut off just a bit more... i test fit it... ZING! it fits perfectly!!! now the shifter goes into every gear without problem AND in neutral, it sits perfectly upright!

what i did not realize; because the shift lever is from a 93 Mr2, it sits considerably lower than my original shifter. not exactly a good OR bad thing... just a difference to get used to.

if anyone wants to see pix of my setup, i'll be happy to take pix and share them and explain exactly what i've done.

Grot
01-23-2011, 06:30 PM
Cmon dude you can never have too many pictures.

And you never know, your labor may well help someone else down the road get their problem sorted out.

Document everything you can

jaydog82
01-24-2011, 01:05 AM
im glad it worked out for you man, i was looking at those stud kits this morning at work :)

not12listen
01-30-2011, 08:27 PM
i do believe that i've finally settled on a brake setup that should work nicely for my Mr2.

Axxis Extended Duty front pads & Axxis Ultimate rear pads, paired with Power Slot slotted rotors front and rear.

HOPEFULLY, that setup will last more than my usual 6 months... now to find a tire that allows me to have a bit of fun, but will last more than 2500 miles. :)

not12listen
02-03-2011, 02:37 AM
just purchased a starter today!

many thanks to Jordan for the core starter. :)

once the starter is installed, i'll take photos...

not12listen
02-08-2011, 06:05 AM
ordered all of my brake stuff yesterday...

Power Slot slotted rotors (front and rear)
EBC Green Stuff pads (front and rear) - very tough to find a reliable source for the Axxis brake pads.

also order a full complement of ARP wheel studs.

jaydog82
02-09-2011, 04:19 PM
nice

not12listen
02-13-2011, 05:47 PM
yesterday, some very good progress was made...

the rear wheel studs (including the broken ones) were removed and the new ARP wheel studs were installed / the starter was also installed (thanks again to Jordan for the heads up/hook up on this!) / the rear engine mount is completed / the front engine mount area has been re-enforced!

this following weekend, i will be removing the front wheel studs and installing the ARP wheel studs, i might even remove the old axles and install the new ones - that'd be fancy! :)

jaydog82
02-13-2011, 07:09 PM
nice progress man.

not12listen
02-14-2011, 09:06 PM
arrived at work today, and i was greeted with the sight of all 4 Power Slot slotted rotors for my AW11. :) i love days like this! now, i just have to wait for my EBC Green Stuff pads to arrive...

too damned anxious!

not12listen
02-15-2011, 01:56 AM
ok... pix!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/throttlebody.jpg
ah yes... the throttle body... :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/studs-factory-top.jpg
top view of the factory wheel studs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/studs-factory-side.jpg
side view of the factory wheel studs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/studs-arp-top.jpg
top view of the ARP wheel studs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/studs-arp-side.jpg
side view of the ARP wheel studs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/starter.jpg
the starter... THANKS JORDAN!!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/speedogear.jpg
damned electric speedo gear. need to swap it to the mechanical speed gear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/rearenginemount.jpg
top view of the rear engine mount.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/intakemanifold.jpg
intake manifold - missing the throttle cable brackets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-12/frontenginemount.jpg
top view of the front engine mount.

jaydog82
02-15-2011, 06:41 AM
looking good man, damn those studs are long. Glad to help with the starter.

not12listen
02-16-2011, 04:19 AM
oh, and what's this? i show up to work and my EBC Green Stuff brake pads were waiting for me! :)

OH HAPPY DAYS!

i think it is abundantly clear that NO ONE will be on the ride along for the brake bedding process... and honestly, i only have 1 4-point harness, so unless you want to see the dash with your forehead, it'd be best to not even ask for a ride along initially. :)

jaydog82
02-16-2011, 07:04 AM
im good, my forehead does not need to be flattened :)

not12listen
02-17-2011, 07:00 AM
doing some number crunching this evening. here are the 3 respective transmission options i have, and their gear ratios.

s54
1: 3.285:1
2: 1.960:1
3: 1.322:1
4: 1.028:1
5: 0.820:1
r: 3.153:1
f: 4.176:1

c160
1: 3.166
2: 2.050
3: 1.481
4: 1.166
5: 0.916
6: 0.725
r: 3.250
f: 4.529

e153
1: 3.23:1
2: 1.91:1
3: 1.25:1
4: 0.918:1
5: 0.731:1
r: 3.545:1
f: 4.285:1

take all of those numbers and plot them into the following website. the e153 looks like a REALLY good choice. granted, 4th and 5th are geared longer for higher speeds (which i will not be able to hit). but, the e153 is a lot stronger than the s54 and i might be able to find one with a factory LSD. of course, then i'd have to have the rear wheel bearings pressed out to accommodate the Mr2 Supercharged hubs (same as Mr2 Turbo)... while at it, i might as well get my ceramic wheel bearings too. :)

but, this is all theoretical at the moment... for the time being, the s54 will be the transmission used to get my Mr2 running. but, i will re-visit the e153 idea later... perhaps when v2 of the engine is being started...

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

jaydog82
02-17-2011, 04:23 PM
ya thats the trans i was going to use when i was thinking of a half trac swap.

not12listen
02-19-2011, 01:04 AM
the e153 is a super strong transmission, but you'd run into a problem with the shift linkage being on the wrong side.

and, this work week has ended on an AWESOME high note...

monday: brake rotors
tuesday: brake pads
friday: custom coolant lines!

i do have pix, but i'm having some problems getting them onto my computer. i'll post them up later this evening. :)

not12listen
02-19-2011, 01:04 AM
the e153 is a super strong transmission, but you'd run into a problem with the shift linkage being on the wrong side.

and, this work week has ended on an AWESOME high note...

monday: brake rotors
tuesday: brake pads
friday: custom coolant lines!

i do have pix, but i'm having some problems getting them onto my computer. i'll post them up later this evening. :)

not12listen
02-19-2011, 02:07 AM
despite the sheer awesomeness it is to have my coolant hoses, i've just done a quick test fit. unfortunately, the couplers supplied will not do the job for my application.

thankfully, i did some quick searching and have found the parts that i need. 4 silicone couplers (1.25" to 1.75") + 8 t-bolt clamps. total cost around $60. :)

now, i just have to wait until the next payday hits, and i'll order these parts!

oh... i forgot to mention the site that had these bad ass hoses...

http://coolflex.com/cfm/welcome.cfm

i gotta say, these things are BEEFY!!! and absolutely worth the price!

not12listen
02-19-2011, 02:59 AM
and now, some pix...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/brakes.jpg
my fun brake setup stuff. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_1.jpg
a box!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_2.jpg
another box!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_3.jpg
2 boxes!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_4.jpg
stuff!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_5.jpg
bend it to the shape you want, and it stays!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_6.jpg
bend it to the shape you want, and it stays!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_7.jpg
bend it to the shape you want, and it stays!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/hoses_8.jpg
bend it to the shape you want, and it stays!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-18/wheel_studs.jpg
an ARP wheel studs, a factory wheel stud and a broken wheel stud.

not12listen
02-26-2011, 03:03 AM
unless its raining, tomorrow i will finish the wheel studs, then 'dummy fit' the coolant hoses in place.

unfortunately, the hose couplers that i got with the kit, will not work for my application... no biggie. already found a source for ones that will - and they are reducing diameter couplers, instead of 'shim' type couplers.

and, i'm also going to order a full complement of t-bolt clamps too.

couplers + t-bolt clamps = roughly $90.

correct couplers + awesome clamps = peace of mind.

jaydog82
02-26-2011, 03:36 AM
looking good.

not12listen
02-26-2011, 05:15 AM
just bought $100 (after shipping and tax) in silicone hoses and t-bolt clamps from this place...

http://www.siliconehose.com/commerce/index.jsp

this will be the last parts needed to get the coolant system finished and sealed!

not12listen
02-27-2011, 12:15 AM
today's progress!

captions under the photos as usual...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/rearstrutbrace.jpg
Cusco rear strut tower brace

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/frontwheelstuds.jpg
front ARP wheel studs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/cruisecontrolbracket.jpg
cruise control bracket removed - i do not have the cruise control bucket

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolantoverflow.jpg
coolant overflow tank - opposite side of the engine bay for you MKI specific people

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolanthose-05.jpg
"Joel-Spec" bent Coolflex hose. this is the hose that goes near the starter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolanthose-04.jpg
"Joel-Spec" bent Coolflex hose. this is the hose that goes near the starter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolanthose-03.jpg
"Joel-Spec" bent Coolflex hose. this is the hose that goes near the alternator.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolanthose-02.jpg
"Joel-Spec" bent Coolflex hose. this is the hose that goes near the alternator.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/coolanthose-01.jpg
"Joel-Spec" bent Coolflex hose. this is the hose that goes near the alternator.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-02-26/braidedsteelclutchline.jpg
Techna-Fit braided steel clutch line


just for the record, today was the first time in over a year that my Mr2 has had a functional clutch pedal! and, while under the car, i even added a few washers to the shift linkage, to take out some of the slop. this is the best the (and most accurate) shifter has EVER felt in my Mr2...

not12listen
02-27-2011, 01:08 AM
forgot to mention above...

4th engine-to-transmission bolt finally installed behind the clutch slave cylinder, also the lower transmission dust shield has been installed. i even took the time to bolt the driver's seat to the chassis! and FINALLY removed the original MKI clutch slave setup.

still need to finish dropping the fuel tank for cleaning, etc - then i'll also run the throttle cable!

and, not photo'd, i do have the throttle bracket mounted to the intake manifold too.

jaydog82
02-27-2011, 03:31 AM
i love the progress. :)

not12listen
02-27-2011, 06:18 PM
i did a tally of all the parts that i've purchased for this swap...

$450 - engine
$250 - s54 transmission from 1994 MKII Mr2 NA
$600 - replacement parts (ie. water pump, oil pump, timing belt, full gasket rebuild kit)
$700 - full engine tear down and rebuild from scratch (includes the cost of new rings, washers, freeze plugs, etc)
$450 - brake rotors and pads
$175 - windshield
$500 - tires (not purchased yet)
$120 - fuel tank cleaning
$90 - Walbro 190lph fuel pump
$25 - braided steel clutch line
$50 - mechanical speed gear assembly
$300 - Clutch Masters Stage 1 clutch
$60 - Sachs new OEM flywheel
$210 - Coolflex hoses
$100 - custom couplers for Coolflex hoses
$50 - a/c compressor
$80 - phenolic intake manifold spacer (thermal blocker)
$120 - full injector cleaning at Witch Hunter Performance
$40 - hot tank cleaning for intake manifold and fuel rail
$450 - MK1.5 engine mount kit from Speed-Source
$500 - FGK/Fujitsubo exhaust
$250 - ceramic coating of FGK/Fujitsubo exhaust
$80 - MKII shifter cables and shift lever
$135 - a super duper special oil filter kit that is on order (do not have yet - hence no photos of it)
$50 - replacement hoses for the fuel tank
$100 - braided steel teflon fuel feed/return lines (this number is PURELY a guess)
$50 - MKII clutch slave kit
$150 - new Mr2 MKII NA axles
$5 - throttle bracket (from Pick N Pull)
$75 - new OEM fuel pressure regulator
$75 - new OEM fuel damper
$120 - ARP wheel studs

$5910 - total so far.

some items that did not cost me, because i have awesome friends...
removal of factory engine mounts (passenger side and driver side specifically)
installation/welding of new side engine mounts (passenger side and driver side specifically)
'customizing' and 're-enforcing' front and rear engine mounts


well, that's all that i can recall off the top of my head. if anything else comes to mind, i'll post it.

oh, and i haven't purchased my $150 head light housings or $50 headlight relay kit or the $30 H4 bulbs...

jaydog82
02-27-2011, 08:09 PM
i was wondering where all your money goes...now i know lol
i am following in your footsteps with my list, its growing by the day

not12listen
03-05-2011, 09:32 PM
today's progress...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-03-05/P1010001.jpg
this is what happens when you neglect your front trunk. i have no one to blame but myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-03-05/P1010002.jpg
this is what 45 minutes of wire wheeling, then 15 minutes of rust-o-leum will turn it into. i know it is NOT perfect, but removing each and every bit of everything from the front trunk is an unwise idea, as i would forget something...

jaydog82
03-06-2011, 02:29 AM
nice

not12listen
04-25-2011, 05:06 AM
today's visit to Pick N Pull was quite successful!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/oilcooler.jpg

factory Oil Cooler setup pulled from a 5th Gen Celica GT. i have been hunting for one of these for quite some time... total price was about $26!! :)

as anyone can guess, i have plans for this little device. first being a test fitment onto my Mr2's 3SGE - that will, most likely, happen this weekend.

jaydog82
04-25-2011, 07:11 AM
very nice man, it even has the heat shield :)

not12listen
04-27-2011, 04:08 AM
did a quick test fit this evening...

removed the original hollow stud that the oil filter threads onto and put the oil cooler in its place. it threaded perfectly! there is no place for the 'stay' hoop on my block though. not such a big deal, being that the main hollow stud will hold it in place, but i will also see about having a simple bracket made that will hold it to the block and stop it from having the chance to pivot.

so... i'll be sending off the lines and oil cooler for a nice hot tank session soon enough. once its installed, i'll take some photos.

not12listen
05-07-2011, 08:49 PM
today's progress... HUGE step forward!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-07/P5060003.jpg
center tunnel - facing forward

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-07/P5060002.jpg
front of the engine bay

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-07/P5060001.jpg
fuel tank removed!

so... next weekend, this fuel tank is going to 'the shop' and being professionally cleaned, pressure tested then being prepared to go back into my Mr2!! :)

at that time, i will ask how much it'd cost to have the fuel pump installed (while they have it). that way, i don't have to worry about me making a mistake on the wiring. :)

jaydog82
05-08-2011, 02:57 AM
loven the progress.

not12listen
05-16-2011, 01:31 AM
today's progress. this is PURELY for test fitment. this is NOT the final fitment of the pieces you see here.

i am aware that the shifter cables are too long, as is the coolant hose that rests over the transmission. those are already being taken care of.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150005.jpg
reducer coupler on the passenger side of the engine bay - coolant filler neck

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150006.jpg
reducer coupler on the water pump

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150007.jpg
reducer coupler on the coolant bypass neck - leads to the radiator

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150008.jpg
reducer coupler on the chassis - leads to the radiator

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150009.jpg
header and alternator test fitment

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150010.jpg
header, alternator and coolant hose test fitment

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150011.jpg
coolant hose test fitment

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150012.jpg
coolant hose test fitment

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150013.jpg
coolant hose test fitment - very clear that it needs to be shortened

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150014.jpg
heat shield fitted over the header

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-15/P5150015.jpg
heat shield test fitment - very clear that the shifter cables are too long

jaydog82
05-16-2011, 04:08 AM
looking good so far, just needs a little adjustment :)

not12listen
05-24-2011, 07:34 AM
a fully neutralized, cleaned and painted Mr2 fuel tank.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-23/P5230019.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-23/P5230020.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-23/P5230021.jpg

not12listen
05-24-2011, 05:00 PM
so, this project is nearly 4 years old. and finally, it is near completion.

the first group of items will all be taken care of this weekend (unless something catastrophic happens).

the 2nd group of items are dependent on specific variables - i sincerely hope they do happen.

the 3rd group of items are (as noted) planned for the first weekend of june - that is when my buddy that does fabrication will be over.

and the final 4 items are the absolute last items that are needed to complete the car.

so, really, the timeline for completion is much shorter than i thought it would be at this point... but, i am THRILLED to see it nearly done. :)

install cold start injector - this weekend
install fuel level - this weekend
install fuel pump - this weekend
install fuel tank - this weekend
new fuel hoses - this weekend
install axles - this weekend
new transmission fluid - this weekend
new heater core hoses - this weekend

replace shifter cables - this weekend
send off 3sge engine harness to be swapped over to the AW11 - this weekend
assemble and install oil bypass filter kit - this weekend
finish front engine mount - first weekend of june

finish exhaust- first weekend of june
finish intake - first weekend of june
build battery box in front trunk - first weekend of june
replace battery - first weekend of june

get gas
install new brake setup
flush brake system
install new tires

not12listen
05-26-2011, 04:27 AM
FINALLY sent off my fuel lines today! it has been months since i had planned to.

hopefully in a few days, i'll hear back from the shop about the cost and turn around time. damn it hope it isn't super expensive and is quick... :)

jaydog82
05-26-2011, 06:14 AM
THE DAY is not too far off, are you going to run some straight 30 non det oil for the first 100 mils or so? if you are you might want to wait to install the oil bypass kit, just thinking.

not12listen
05-26-2011, 07:42 AM
THE DAY is not too far off, are you going to run some straight 30 non det oil for the first 100 mils or so? if you are you might want to wait to install the oil bypass kit, just thinking.

thankfully, the day is drawing closer... :)

3000 miles of break-in driving with 30w break-in oil. Brad Penn oil to be specific. oh, and its already here in a box. :) the oil bypass filter kit will be installed PRIOR to the first turn of the engine.

not12listen
05-28-2011, 06:49 AM
so... the list is printed out... i even put tiny circles next to each item, so i check them off the list when i'm done with them.

here is what i'll be tackling tomorrow.

install cold start injector
install fuel level
install fuel pump
install fuel tank
install new fuel hoses
install new clutch master
install clevis
bleed clutch
install throttle pedal
install throttle cable
drain transmission
install axles
install new transmission fluid
install new heater core hoses
install speedogear lock pin
replace shifter cables

jaydog82
05-28-2011, 06:52 AM
looks like a good days work :)

not12listen
05-28-2011, 07:07 AM
looks like a good days work :)

its one of those days when my phone will be left near my computer, and i will be working on the Mr2 near constant. the only breaks will be for some beer, food or to use the toilet.

i'll also update with the items that are finished as well.

not12listen
05-29-2011, 02:23 AM
finished:
install fuel level
install fuel pump
install fuel tank
install new fuel hoses
drain transmission
install speedogear lock pin

not finished:
install cold start injector
install new clutch master
install clevis
bleed clutch
install throttle pedal
install throttle cable
install axles
install new transmission fluid
install new heater core hoses
replace shifter cables


it just started raining, and the axles are considerably more difficult to install than i expected.

tomorrow, more work on the Mr2.

jaydog82
05-29-2011, 04:29 AM
ya the axels are a pain, they have lock rings.

not12listen
05-29-2011, 05:00 AM
yeah. not exactly sure how to get those suckers in. any ideas?

and dismantling the axles is not an option...

not12listen
05-29-2011, 05:51 AM
btw - i had initially planned on taking photos of my progress, but i was so focused on just getting items check off my list (and making actual progress), that zero photos were taken. tomorrow, if time permits, i'll take photos of the overall progress.

also, forgot to mention that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was installed. yeehaw! waiting on my remanufactured fuel lines before i can install my Fuel Pulsation Damper.

jaydog82
05-29-2011, 07:45 AM
Ya, when i changed the axels on my gt i lined up the keeper so that the open part was facing the ground, then you need to push in the axel into the trans, some force and speed are needed in this also making sure the splines are lined up. its been a whilh since iv done it so check what it says in the bgb.
INSTALLATION OF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT
(See page SA–17)
1. INSTALL LH DRIVE SHAFT
(a) Coat the oil seal lip with MP grease.
(b) Using a brass bar and a hammer, tap in the drive
shaft until it makes contact with the pinion shaft.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots.
HINT:
• Before installing the drive shaft, set the snap ring
opening side facing downward.
• Whether or not the drive shaft is making contact with
the pinion shaft can be known by sound or feeling
when driving it in.
(c) Install the outboard joint side of the drive shaft to
the axle hub.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots.
2. INSTALL RH DRIVE SHAFT
(5S–FE Engine)
(a) Coat the oil seal lip with MP grease.
(b) Install the center drive shaft with the RH drive
shaft to the transaxle through the bearing bracket.
HINT: When installing the drive shaft, install so the
straight pin on the center bearing case aligns with the
hole on the bearing bracket.
(d) (Except RH Drive Shaft w/5S–FE Engine)
Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap
ring.
(c) Install the two bolts and tighten them.
Torque: 64 N–m (650 kgf–cm, 47 ft–lbf)
SUSPENSION AND AXLE – Front Drive Shaft (2WD)
SA–30

jaydog82
05-29-2011, 07:48 AM
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/93celica/

not12listen
05-29-2011, 11:47 PM
thanks for the advice and link to the BGB. the hammer trick did it!

finished:
install throttle pedal
install throttle cable
install axles
install new heater core hoses
replace shifter cables

not finished:
install cold start injector (cannot find it)
install new clutch master
install clevis (need a 12mm drill bit)
bleed clutch
install new transmission fluid


pix will be up later!

not12listen
05-30-2011, 03:58 AM
and now... photos of the work done this weekend!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/removedcoolantpiping.jpg
the amount of coolant piping that i had to remove. 12 rings in total.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/pedals.jpg
oh blessed throttle pedal... how i have missed you dearly. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/hacksaw.jpg
what i used to remove those 12 rings worth of coolant piping (recommended by the manufacturer of the piping) - fine toothed hack saw!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines06.jpg
both coolant lines in their appropriate placement. the fitment is near ideal!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines05.jpg
coolant piping - main focus of the driver's side pipe. yes, the far coolant pipe is making contact with the starter - there is nothing i can do about this unfortunately.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines04.jpg
coolant piping on the passenger's side of the engine bay. just to give perspective as per how unique of a pipe is needed for this routing job.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines03.jpg
driver's side coolant pipe again. clearly demonstrates how close the coolant neck is to the starter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines02.jpg
rear of the fuel tank. the big ribbed hose with the absolute MOST DIFFICULT hose i have ever dealt with. all other hoses are new with new clamps on them as well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/coolantlines01.jpg
an overall shot of the engine bay - prior to the header (with heat shield) in for test fitment.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/axles02.jpg
passenger's side axle. again, thanks to Jordan for the link to the BGB and informing that some 'massaging' with a hammer is required. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-05-29/axles01.jpg
driver's side axle.


so, something that i am THRILLED that worked out perfectly - when i removed the jack stands and let the Mr2 rest on its own, i looked again and the axles are perfectly FLAT!!! :) it looks as if it was designed to fit in there!

also in the photos are the 8.5mm Magnecor ignition wires. and, unfortunately, my factory AW11 throttle cable is too short, by all of 2 or 3 inches. argh! so, i've already put the wheels in motion to source another (hopefully a bit longer) that will solve that problem. i only purchased enough heater core hose for 1 of the lines, so tomorrow i will go back and buy enough for the other - with that, i will temporarily seal up the coolant system. i will not 'final' seal the coolant system until after all of the fuel lines are in place (they run next to each other). also, i was unable to replace the clutch master and clevis - i want to do both at once and unfortunately i do not have the correct drill for the new clevis bearing.

despite the small items that linger, i am absolutely THRILLED with the progress (especially the axles!).

jaydog82
05-30-2011, 04:03 AM
looking great, it can actually sit and role if you wanted to. awesome.

jaydog82
05-30-2011, 04:06 AM
no prob on the link, its a very nice perk of this site :) i plan on using it a ton.

not12listen
05-30-2011, 04:20 AM
strangely, it rolls BETTER now (with the axles in place) than it did with the axles disconnected! very odd! oh, and the speedo cable is connected and works too. :)

jaydog82
05-30-2011, 04:52 AM
sweet

not12listen
05-31-2011, 02:19 AM
looked over the engine bay, trying to determine the best and most logical place to put my oil bypass filter kit. looks like it'll be resting on the driver's side of the engine bay, above the fuel filter. i want to make sure that there is plenty of room to get to the fuse box, evap canister and fuel filter.

but... items that remain to get it running.

seal up all of the vacuum/fuel 'burp' lines
intake
exhaust
wiring harness
fit and seal the 2 primary coolant lines
fit and seal the 2 heater core lines
install the new fuel lines (fuel feed and fuel return) along with the fuel damper
get a battery
get some fuel

once it runs, it'll be time to put the new brakes and tires on...

jaydog82
05-31-2011, 04:51 AM
cool

not12listen
06-02-2011, 03:30 AM
fixed my throttle cable issue.

the factory aw11 NA throttle cable was just a bit too short. i took the portion of the throttle bracket that the cable locks into and rotated it 180 degrees. i now have to have a small custom bracket made it hold it there, which is not a huge deal. but, because of how much length there is, there is some room to play with for its location.

this weekend, i'll be working on the Mr2 some more. at that time, i will take some 'before and after' photos, to demonstrate what i've done.

not12listen
06-06-2011, 07:56 AM
entire exhaust completed. it isn't pretty and no pictures exist. but, it is 100% functional - that is all that i care about. it will be re-created later, properly.

i will be attempting to finish the intake and a custom throttle bracket. then it is a matter of the engine harness, fuel lines, a battery and some fuel.

OH DAMN!!! it might actually run!

jaydog82
06-06-2011, 03:22 PM
nice

not12listen
06-23-2011, 12:44 AM
and today, i got my braided stainless steel wrapped fuel lines... :) well, 2 of the 3...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-06-22/P6220017.jpg

the short line leads from the fuel tank to the fuel filter, and the longer one leads from the fuel filter to the fuel rail.

i took a tape measure and did a very rough measurement of how long of a hose i would need. it turned out to be just about 6 inches longer than the factory line, this is due to the fact that the 3sge rests at an angle, whereas the 4age does not. so, with that extra bit of angle, a bit more line was needed.

i did a quick test fit and the short line threads onto the fuel feed lead from the fuel tank without any problems.

jaydog82
06-23-2011, 05:07 AM
pretty :) and very effective

not12listen
06-27-2011, 11:17 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-06-27/enginebay001.jpg

new fuel filter and fuel lines installed - no coolant hoses

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-06-27/enginebay002.jpg

coolant lines added

not12listen
07-09-2011, 10:12 PM
cut the driver's side coolant hose (purple one) a bit more.
installed the heater core hoses.

test fitted the cold air intake that was given to me by Jordan, unfortunately it does not fit with all of the other hoses in the engine bay. so, i'm going to have a super short intake stream. in reverse order, intake manifold, intake coupler, AFM, cone filter. if my estimation is correct, the cone filter will rest above the starter.

that really does limit the space for my super duper oil filter. i'm guessing that i might have enough space above the driver's side axle, behind the AFM or i might have to get really creative with a drill and such... whatever... i'll figure it out.

jaydog82
07-10-2011, 08:50 AM
looks good enough to be running :)

not12listen
07-11-2011, 04:33 AM
all of the fuel lines have been tightened down - once and for all. i just wish i could pressure test the fuel system to spot any leaks ahead of time. and i just need 1 more banjo bolt, for the line that leads into the top of the fuel filter.

the heater core lines are also solidly clamped down - i'll pressure test the system at some point in the near future.

removed the entire exhaust system, and discovered exactly how much of a pain in the ass sealing the hose to the thermostat housing will be... gotta see if an 'extended neck' version exists.

put all of the hand brake stuff back together and made sure that my hand brake will actually work - it has not worked in years, so i'm quite excited about this. :)

put the center tunnel (shifter tunnel) cover back on loosely, and as it turns out, i cannot use the 93+ Mr2 factory shifter setup. it is considerably shorter than my stock AW11 shifter (i prefer the factory AW11 setup anyways), but the shorter SW20 setup makes solid contact with the right side of the tunnel cover the entire time that i try to shift into 5th or reverse. over time, that will wear out my shifter boot. so, i'll be re-assembling and re-installing my factory AW11 shifter setup! :) despite the bit of extra throw in the AW11 setup, i've never had any problems with it and it has always served me perfectly.

btw - the time out on CelicaTech is damned annoying. i step away for 10 minutes, and i'm logged out. PISSING ME OFF...

not12listen
07-19-2011, 02:04 AM
well, as i discovered a bit ago, the 93+ Mr2 shifter setup will not clear the AW11 tunnel cover. anytime that i put the shifter into placement for 5th gear or Reverse, it will make solid contact with the right side of the tunnel cover, which over time will rip the shifter boot.

here are photos for comparison of both shifters setup fully with boot and shift knob.

SW20 shift shifter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-07-18/sw20shifter-side.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-07-18/sw20shifter-rear.jpg

AW11 stock shifter:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-07-18/aw11shifter-side.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-07-18/aw11shifter-rear.jpg

its very apparent that the factory AW11 shifter is taller and a lot more centered. i already know that i will have a longer throw with the factory AW11 shifter setup, and i am 100% fine with it - in many ways, i prefer it.

also, the fuel system is now 100% complete! i just needed to get the last banjo bolt that locks into the top of the fuel filter, and i got it this past weekend at the local Pick N Pull.

jaydog82
07-19-2011, 06:00 AM
nice

not12listen
08-12-2011, 02:40 AM
words cannot describe the excitement that i feel when i see this piece!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-11/neck001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-11/neck002.jpg

Facime
08-12-2011, 03:31 AM
uhh...?


the last piece you need to finish the job and start driving it?

Doowstados
08-12-2011, 03:32 AM
words cannot describe the excitement that i feel when i see this piece!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-11/neck001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-11/neck002.jpg

I don't get it...?

Facime
08-12-2011, 03:34 AM
^^ we posted at the exact same time, lol.

Pretty anti-climactic, but sometimes little things can mean alot. I suspect a backstory coming.

not12listen
08-17-2011, 03:29 AM
yup. the last post was vague on purpose. :) and today, it'll make a LOT more sense... with photos too!!! :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160058.jpg
a pre-bent silicone hose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160059.jpg
the problem area - the reducer coupler makes contact with the a/c compressor constantly. not ideal.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160060.jpg
mate that 'awesomely exciting' piece with the pre-bent coupler - and the scheme is becoming more clear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160062.jpg
oh... what's this?! something taking shape!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160063.jpg
ah ha! no more solid contact! WOOHOO!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160064.jpg
early fitment. very nice!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160065.jpg
a close-up of the thermostat housing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160066.jpg
after a bit of trimming...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-16/P8160067.jpg
a bit of a close-up...

so yeah. i hope that tube of aluminum makes more sense now. :)

Facime
08-17-2011, 03:48 AM
I love how the MR2's have a built in tool/parts shelf for workin on 'em. ;)

not12listen
08-17-2011, 05:40 AM
i must say, it is quite handy. :) but the roof also makes a nice shelf too... and with the fact that i have a sunroof, i never have to worry about scratching up the paint job of the glass. :)

so... at this point, i am still waiting on a buddy to finish my engine wiring harness, then some intake work (couplers, etc) and a battery. and, yeah, that's about it.

jaydog82
08-17-2011, 06:25 AM
very nice, the anticipation grows...

not12listen
08-25-2011, 04:06 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-24/P8240057.jpg

brand new OEM Toyota fuel gauge! this is going in one of these evenings. :)

jaydog82
08-25-2011, 04:10 AM
nice, did yours not work?

not12listen
08-25-2011, 05:34 AM
the last time my Mr2 had power (4 years ago), it did work correctly.

i'll take photos of my current one when i remove it. one of the reasons why i replaced it is that the gasket on my current setup was flaking and falling apart - and Toyota does not sell that gasket separately.

jaydog82
08-25-2011, 07:44 PM
When in dobt change it out. Lol.

not12listen
08-27-2011, 05:45 PM
and this is why i changed out the fuel gauge float thing...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-27/P8260056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-27/P8260057.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/not12listen/MR2/progress/2011-08-27/P8260058.jpg

and yes, the new fuel gauge floater is already installed. no photos because there isn't much to see.

Nitro_Alltrac
08-27-2011, 06:05 PM
Looks like an excellent move.

not12listen
09-05-2011, 12:30 AM
i'll be dropping off the donor AW11 harness to my wiring guy this evening. 3 last plugs are needed to make the conversion 100% stock (looking) and plug and play.

i've also ordered every possible t-bolt clamp that i might need to seal up the overly complicated coolant system - those should arrive mid-week. and i've just ordered the last silicone reducing and angled coupler and all clamps that i'll need for that too.

beyond that, it is a matter of some small hoses, putting the harness on and putting a battery into place... and it should fire up. :)

for all that are in attendance when it cranks over the first time, you will see a grown man cry tears of joy.

jaydog82
09-05-2011, 03:40 AM
If its on a Sunday ill be there, ill video tape it if you want

Doowstados
09-07-2011, 07:55 AM
AHA! Now I understand the little aluminum piece. Lookin' good man, definitely post a video of first start up!

allTRACway
09-07-2011, 10:34 PM
and the crying dont forget the crying :D

jaydog82
09-08-2011, 01:44 AM
oh yes :.)

DudeMan
09-08-2011, 05:03 AM
Kinda funny how all the work and time leads up to one big moment.. Hope everything goes well for you man!

not12listen
09-11-2011, 01:50 AM
thanks for all the positive notes and desires to see me cry. :)

and today's progress is done! a new Sachs clutch master cylinder has been installed and bled. a new clevis assembly has also been installed!

now, i just need some assistance to properly bleed the clutch pedal. next on the list, is a new brake master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. :)

i'll take photos of the new clutch master cylinder and the clevis setup later.

jaydog82
09-11-2011, 01:52 AM
sweet

not12listen
10-23-2011, 09:26 AM
i am needing the coil/ignitor from an 86-89 Celica GTS...

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/web_images/IGNITION_COIL-ICA293.jpg

jaydog82
10-23-2011, 05:23 PM
hey Joel, i know that i have one for a 90 gt. it looks the same.

not12listen
10-23-2011, 05:43 PM
awesome. :) does it look like this one? this has the 2 small clips that hold the primary ignition wire in place.

also, is the primary ignition wire the same size on both ends OR is it smaller on the end that goes to the coil?

this shows the later model coil with the retaining clips on the coil - i cannot use this model.

http://www.am-autoimages.com/partimage/ECI/AM-13075301/main.JPG

jaydog82
10-24-2011, 02:06 AM
i dont remember, ill check

4thgenceli
10-24-2011, 03:18 AM
I sent ya a PM with the pics of both of these. Lemme know.

not12listen
11-23-2011, 06:52 AM
so, i feel the need to update.

a number of times my wiring friend has come over and we've unraveled more and more of the harness that was originally 'modified' (by a different friend of mine)...

without mincing words, the first friend hacked up and f---ed up the original harness - nearly to the point of it being useless. i truly cannot describe the sheer amount of frustration and anger that i feel. if given the opportunity, i might beat the living piss out of the original friend for NOT being honest about not being able to take on this task, and instead giving me a completely half-assed harness. the current gentleman that is working on the harness is an electrical engineer and estimated that, if i were to have just plugged in the original harness, there is a chance that my car would've caught on fire.

so... yeah. knowing what i know now, i could've just sent off the harness to a professional shop and been driving my Mr2 about 1 year ago (my rough estimation). but no, i was CHEAP and asked a friend to do it.

what do i hope people get from this post? don't be cheap. either do a harness yourself (if you have the knowledge/skill) or spend the money and send it off to a shop to be professionally done. cutting corners and saving a few $ right now, might cost you a hell of a lot more later.

jaydog82
11-23-2011, 07:39 AM
Yup, that sucks man.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

match220
11-24-2011, 11:03 PM
interesting, I've never heard of anyone trying to drop a 3s into a naturally 4a (or 7a) car. I'll skim more through your thread and see how it's coming along. Nice though!

not12listen
01-04-2012, 02:58 AM
harness was sent off to Tweak'd Performance. 4 weeks, and i should have it back completed and working!

on the throttle body, there are 3 hoses... anybody have any idea where they plug into? i'll take photos of it when i get a free moment...

jaydog82
01-04-2012, 05:23 AM
Yay :)

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk

not12listen
01-07-2012, 10:29 PM
Mr2 shifter bushings - installed!
also put the exhaust on partially, just for fitment purposes. it will be a tight fit, but it'll work. :)
also, i need to make customer bracket to hold the air flow meter stable, otherwise it's going to bounce around a bit...