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View Full Version : Rear main Seal on my 5s (help needed)



85gtsblackman
12-06-2004, 07:17 AM
Ok i know its not a celica but its a 2nd gen 5sfe in a 93 camry auto

ok so me and a frend are going to do the rear main seal in my 5sfe , i need to know what all i need in doing this job

hers what ive figured out so far

remove axles
remove wires and hoses to trans
unbolt trans mount, and possibly motor mounts and torque straps
support engine with hoist
unbolt trans and support it with trans jack
drop trans out
unbolt torque converter
unbolt flywheel
change seal

reverse what ive said for install

Mike431635
12-06-2004, 10:17 PM
That sounds just right to me. Good luck doing all that, I've never changed one with the motor in the car.

85gtsblackman
12-06-2004, 10:24 PM
note to self....get transaxle seals

TRDmkII
12-07-2004, 01:31 AM
well before you remove the transmission you should unbolt the fly wheel from the torque converter and leave the torque converter on the transmission....then when you put it back it up will be easier to line up and allow for a less chance of damaging the transmission oil pump.once you get it on the ground i would replace the front transmission seal if your going that far when you replace the rear main. good luck, its a pain in the ass on the ground. I won't change mine till it literally pours out or when i have to replace my clutch

85gtsblackman
12-07-2004, 06:35 AM
exactly how would i unbolt the fly without taking the trans off

TRDmkII
12-07-2004, 10:42 PM
no...there are 6 bolts that hold the flex plate (aka flywheel) to the torque converter, there is an inspection plate you can remove under the engine and then you would remove those bolts by removing one at a time and turning the engine over to get to the next one. once you remove those 6 bolts you can then remove the tranny with the torque converter and then once you get it down you can then remove the flexplate and replace the rear main seal.

85gtsblackman
12-07-2004, 11:27 PM
ok thanks cause i was like wtf????

Dr.Auto
12-08-2004, 01:48 AM
you can do it one of three ways. Either remove engine from car and replace seal. remove transaxle and suframe from car and replace seal with engine still in car. Or you can drop out the transaxle and engine out the bottom with the sub frame asembly.



here's a diagram for removing transaxle out the bottom. This is the easiest way in my opinion. but you need to support the engine in the car so it does'nt fall out as once you remove the sub frame and transaxle it's only held in by one mount.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V15079328~C10624~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/41746052/41746138/41746139/41746140/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860183/96601052/102549601/62721807/62623321

here's a rundown of complete removal.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V15079328~C10624~R0~OD~N/0/41746052/41746138/41746139/41746140/34853741/100411974/34853743/34849396

85gtsblackman
12-08-2004, 04:50 AM
1st link dead

and the 2nd link reqires name and password

u could past that here and everyone can use it as a guide for there rear main job

Dr.Auto
12-08-2004, 05:58 AM
I was afraid that would happen. I think it works on my computer just cause I have the cookie fir it. I'm reluctant to give out the password as it's my shops account. I'll think of another way I hope.....

85gtsblackman
12-08-2004, 11:17 PM
u cant copy and paste or screen shot it can u?

Dr.Auto
12-09-2004, 12:52 AM
I can copy and paste the text and it will work. But not the pics. I would have to save them and host them somehow.

Hooligan
12-09-2004, 12:54 AM
Have you tried right-clicking to see if you can save them? Do you know how to take a screenshot?

Dr.Auto
12-09-2004, 05:29 AM
I am not completely sure what you mean. Are you meaning right click and "selecting all" and saving that way? Cause when I do it that way I get no photo's. Hmmmmmmm....... how do I say this. HELP!

Dr.Auto
12-09-2004, 05:34 AM
Testing......test

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1993 Toyota Camry Sedan L4-132 2164cc 2.2L DOHC (5S-FE)
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Service and Repair


Service and Repair
Notes












ENGINE REMOVAL


DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF BATTERY CAUTION (w/ Airbag): Work must be started after approx. 30 seconds or longer from the time the ignition switch is turned to the LOCK position and the negative (-) terminal cable is disconnected from the battery.
2 REMOVE BATTERY AND TRAY

REMOVE HOOD
REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
DRAIN ENGINE OIL
DISCONNECT ACCELERATOR CABLE FROM THROTTLE BODY
(A/T) DISCONNECT THROTTLE CABLE FROM THROTTLE BODY








REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY, RESONATOR AND AIR CLEANER HOSE
(a) Disconnect the air intake temperature sensor connector.
(b) Disconnect the cruise control actuator cable from the clamp on the resonator and air cleaner.
(c) Loosen the air cleaner hose clamp bolt.
(d) Disconnect the four air cleaner cap clips.
(e) Disconnect the air cleaner hose from the throttle body, and remove the air cleaner cap together with the resonator and air cleaner hose.
(f) Remove the element.
(g) Remove the three bolts and air cleaner case.









(w/ CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM) REMOVE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
(a) Remove the actuator cover.
(b) Disconnect the actuator connector.
(c) Remove the three bolts, and disconnect the actuator with the bracket.

DISCONNECT GROUND STRAP FROM BATTERY CARRIER
REMOVE RADIATOR








DISCONNECT COOLANT RESERVOIR HOSE
Remove the bolt and disconnect the reservoir hose.








REMOVE WASHER TANK
(a) Remove the three washer tank mounting bolts.
(b) Disconnect the connector and hose, and remove the washer tank.

DISCONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS








(a) Remove the engine relay box, and disconnect the three connectors.
(b) Two connectors from LH fender apron









(c) Igniter connector
(d) Noise filter connector
(e) Connector from fender apron









(f) Data link connector 1
(g) (w/ A/C) A/C magnet switch connector
(h) Ground strap from RH fender apron
(i) Vacuum sensor connector
(j) (M/T) Back-up light switch connector
(k) (M/T) Speed sensor connector









DISCONNECT HEATER HOSES
DISCONNECT FUEL RETURN HOSE CAUTION: Catch leaking fuel in a container.








DISCONNECT FUEL INLET HOSE CAUTION: Catch leaking fuel in a container.
(M/T) REMOVE STARTER








(M/T) REMOVE CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER WITHOUT DISCONNECTING TUBE
Remove the four bolts, release cylinder and tube from the transaxle.













DISCONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLE(S) FROM TRANSAXLE








DISCONNECT VACUUM HOSES
(a) Vacuum sensor hose from air intake chamber
(b) Brake booster vacuum hose from air intake chamber
(c) Charcoal canister vacuum hose.









DISCONNECT ENGINE WIRE FROM CABIN
(a) Remove the under cover.
(b) Remove the lower instrument panel.
(c) Remove the glove compartment door.
(d) Remove the glove compartment.
(e) Disconnect the following connectors:
(1) Two FCM connectors
(2) Four cowl wire connector









(f) Remove the two nuts, and pull out the engine wire from the cowl panel.









(w/ A/C) REMOVE A/C COMPRESSOR WITHOUT DISCONNECTING HOSES
(a) Disconnect the A/C compressor connector.
(b) Remove the drive belt.
(c) Remove the three bolts. and disconnect the A/C compressor.

HINT: Put aside the compressor, and suspend it from the radiator support.









DISCONNECT FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
(a) Loosen the two bolts, and disconnect the bracket.
(b) Using a 14 mm deep socket wrench, remove the three nuts holding the front exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold (three-way catalytic converter (front)).
(c) Disconnect the front exhaust pipe and gaskets.

REMOVE DRIVE SHAFTS








REMOVE PS PUMP WITHOUT DISCONNECTING HOSES
(a) Disconnect the two air hoses from the air pipe.
(b) Remove the PS drive belt.
(c) Remove the two bolts, and disconnect the PS pump from the engine.

HINT: Put aside the pump and suspend it to the cowl with a string.



DISCONNECT LH ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR






(M/T) Remove the three bolts, and disconnect the mounting insulator.







(A/T) Remove the four bolts, and disconnect the mounting insulator.









DISCONNECT RR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
(a) Remove the hole plugs.
(b) Remove the three nuts, and disconnect the mounting insulator.









DISCONNECT FR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Remove the three bolts, and disconnect the mounting insulator.








ATTACH ENGINE SLING DEVICE TO ENGINE HANGERS








REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD
Remove the three bolts and control rod








REMOVE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE
(a) Lift the engine out of the vehicle slowly and carefully.

NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or park/neutral position switch (A/T).



(b) Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring, hoses and cables.
(c) Place the engine and transaxle assembly onto the stand.

(A/T) REMOVE STARTER
SEPARATE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE








REMOVE NO.2 RH ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET
Remove the three bolts and engine mounting bracket.








REMOVE FR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
(a) Remove the bolt, nut and manifold stay.
(b) Remove the four bolts and mounting insulator.









REMOVE RR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Remove the four bolts and mounting insulator.
ENGINE INSTALLATION








INSTALL RR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Install the mounting insulator with the four bolts. Torque: 77 N.m (790 kgf.cm, 57 ft.lbf)








INSTALL FR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
(a) Install the mounting insulator with the four bolts.
Torque: 77 Nm (790 kgf.cm, 57 ft.lbf)
(b) Install the manifold stay with the bolt and nut.
Torque: 42 N.m (425 kgf.cm. 31 ft.lbf)

INSTALL NO.2 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET








(a) Temporarily install the No.2 engine mounting bracket with the two bolts.
(b) Install the remaining bolt.









(c) Tighten the three bolts in the sequence shown.
Torque: 52 N.m (530 kgf.cm, 38 ft.lbf)

ASSEMBLE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE
(A/T) INSTALL STARTER
INSTALL ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY IN VEHICLE
(a) Attach the engine sling device to the engine hangers.









(b) Lower the engine into the engine compartment. Tilt the transaxle downward, lower the engine and clear the LH mounting.

NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or park/neutral position switch (A/T).









(c) Keep the engine level, and align RH and LH mountings with the body bracket.

INSTALL ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD








(a) Temporarily install the engine moving control rod with the three bolts in the sequence shown.









(b) Tighten the three bolts in the sequence shown.
Torque: 64 N.m (850 kgf.cm, 47 ft.lbf)









CONNECT FR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Connect the mounting insulator with the three bolts. Torque: 80 N.m (820 kgf.cm, 59 ft.lbf)








CONNECT RR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
(a) Connect the mounting insulator with the three nuts.
Torque: 66 N.m (670 kgf.cm, 48 ft.lbf)
(b) Install the hole plugs.

CONNECT LH ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR






(M/T) Connect the mounting insulator with the three bolts.
Torque: 64 N.m (650 kgf.cm. 47 ft.lbf)







(A/T) Connect the mounting insulator with the four bolts.
Torque: 64 N.m (650 kgf.cm. 47 ft.lbf)



REMOVE ENGINE SLING DEVICE








INSTALL PS PUMP
(a) Install the PS pump with the two bolts.
Torque: 43 N.m (440 kgf.cm, 31 ft.lbf)
(b) Install the drive belt.
(c) Connect the two air hoses to the air pipe.

INSTALL DRIVE SHAFTS








CONNECT FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
(a) Place a new gasket on the front exhaust pipe.
(b) Using a 14 mm deep socket wrench, install the three new nuts holding the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold (three-way catalytic converter (front).
Torque: 62 N.m (630 kgf.cm. 46 ft.lbf)
(c) Install the bracket with the two bolts.









(w/ A/C) INSTALL A/C COMPRESSOR
(a) Install the compressor with the three bolts.
Torque: 27 N.m (280 kgf.cm. 20 ft.lbf)
(b) Install the drive belt.
(c) Connect the A/C compressor connector.









CONNECT ENGINE WIRE TO CABIN
(a) Push in the engine wire through the cowl panel. Install the two nuts.
(b) Connect the following connectors:









(1) Two FCM connectors
(2) Four cowl wire connectors
(c) Install the glove compartment.
(d) Install the glove compartment door.
(e) Install the lower instrument panel.
(f) Install the under cover.









CONNECT VACUUM HOSES
(a) Vacuum sensor hose to air intake chamber
(b) Brake booster vacuum hose to air intake chamber
(c) Charcoal canister vacuum hose














CONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLE(S) TO TRANSAXLE








(M/T) INSTALL CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER
Install the release cylinder and tube with the four bolts.
(M/T) INSTALL STARTER








CONNECT FUEL INLET HOSE Torque: 29 N.m (300 kgf.cm, 22 ft.lbf)








CONNECT FUEL RETURN HOSE
CONNECT HEATER HOSES
CONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS








(a) Connect the three connectors to the relay box.
(b) Install the engine relay box.
(c) Two connectors from LH fender apron









(d) Igniter connector
(e) Noise filter connector
(f) Connector from fender apron









(g) Data link connector 1
(h) (w/ A/C) A/C magnet switch connector
(i) Ground strap from RH fender apron
(j) Vacuum sensor connector
(k) (M/T) Back-up light switch connector
(l) (M/T) Speed sensor connector









INSTALL WASHER TANK
(a) Connect the connector and vinyl hose to the washer tank.
(b) Install the washer tank with the three bolts.









INSTALL COOLANT RESERVOIR HOSE
Connect the reservoir hose with the bolt.
INSTALL RADIATOR
CONNECT GROUND STRAP TO BATTERY CARRIER








(w/ CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM) INSTALL CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
(a) Install the actuator and bracket with the three bolts.
(b) Connect the actuator connector.
(c) Install the actuator cover.









INSTALL AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY, RESONATOR AND AIR CLEANER HOSE
(a) Install the air cleaner case with three bolts.
(b) Install the element.
(c) Connect the air cleaner hose to the throttle body.
(d) Install the air cleaner cap together with the resonator and air cleaner hose.
(e) Connect the air intake temperature sensor connector.
(f) Connect the cruise control actuator cable to the clamp on the resonator and cleaner cap.

(A/T) CONNECT THROTTLE CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
INSTALL ACCELERATOR CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT Capacity (w/ Heater): 6.3 liters (6.7 US qts. 5.5 Imp. qts)
FILL WITH ENGINE OIL Capacity (M/T): Drain and refill: w/ Oil filter change: 4.1 liters (4.3 US qts, 3.6 Imp. qts) w/o Oil filter change: 3.7 liters (3.9 US qts. 3.3 Imp. qts) Dry fill: 4.5 liters (4.8 US qts. 4.0 Imp. qts) Capacity (A/T): Drain and refill: w/ Oil filter change: 4.2 liters (4.4 US qts, 3.7 Imp. qts) w/o Oil filter change: 3.8 liters (4.0 US qts, 3.3 Imp. qts) Dry fill: 4.6 liters (4.9 US qts, 4.0 Imp. qts)
CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF BATTERY
START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
PREFORM ENGINE ADJUSTMENT
(a) Adjust the generator drive belt.

Drive belt tension:
w/ A/C:
New belt: 175 5 lbf
Used belt: 130 10 lbf
w/o A/C
New belt: 125 25 lbf
Used belt: 95 20 lbf



(b) Adjust the PS drive belt.

Drive belt tension:
New belt: 125 25 lbf
Used belt: 80 20 lbf



(c) Adjust the ignition timing.

Ignition timing: 1OBTDC @ idle
(w/ Terminals TE1 and E1 connected)



INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVERS
INSTALL HOOD
PERFORM ROAD TEST
Check for abnormal noise, chock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.
RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT AND ENGINE OIL LEVELS










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Terms of Use

Dr.Auto
12-09-2004, 05:35 AM
see this is the best I can get. I can't get the photos to show up. Let me know if this image works. or fill me in on another way to do this cause I would love to learn.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V15117049~C10624~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/41746052/41746138/41746139/41746140/34853741/100411974/34853743/34849396/98809123/42382274

85gtsblackman
12-09-2004, 09:56 PM
oh this is gonna be a fun job.....well ill have about 36 hours to work on it

thanks

link dead

Mister2T
12-12-2004, 04:45 PM
good luck...

carlosfandango
04-28-2005, 02:10 AM
damn, that sure is one bitch of a seal to get to.

best of luck.

alltracman78
04-29-2005, 03:26 AM
Hell, it isn't half as bad as it sounds.
Like Dr Auto said, pulling the tranny and supporting the engine is easiest.
Hows the oil pan seal look?
Maybe replace that and the rear main seal surround [I forget what it's called ]

Don't you work for Toyota? You've never done a rear main before?

Dr Auto, have you tried saving the pics and using www.imageshack.com ?

85gtsblackman
04-29-2005, 04:10 AM
i pulled the motor

gonna reseal

Punisher
04-29-2005, 05:07 AM
I personally think pulling the motor and leaving the tranny alone is the easiest.. atleast it was the easiest in my corolla.. Took absolutely no time at all to get the engine out...

On our celica's it looks like it would be more of a pain in the ass to get the engine out, however my friend has a 92 i believe.. camry and their is a LOT more room in the bay than our celi's.. Personally I'd pull the engine.. getting the bolts out of the flexplate was like a complete confusion for me the first time.. I had no clue what to do or how to do it or anything and then I finally discovered this so called "service cover" and then I found the flexplate bolts..

When you put the flexplate bolts back in be sure to only get them threaded in.. don't torque them till they are all in place.. then go with a torque pattern.. like 12 o'clock to 6.. 3 to 9.. etc..

I wasn't sure about the torque specification so I put a little bit of blue loctite on the threads of each bolt just to be sure.

It's a fun little job :)

alltracman78
04-29-2005, 03:19 PM
That's a good point. The Camry does have alot more room.
Makes me jelous some times.