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View Full Version : Need some help on cleanin the celi up



Punisher
04-02-2005, 07:50 PM
Alright ladies.. It's getting nice out now that spring is goin full force.. However, raining like a tsunami this weekend.. but anyway..

I washed the celica yesterday.. and I noticed quite a bit of crap.. first off from this winter, when all of the salt/stones were laid down, I have a ton of paint chips on the front end from other cars kickin stones up..

Best way to take care of all those little paint chips? I was going to get a matching silver in one of those little touch-up bottles.. But that just puts paint down.. what about protecting it with a clear coat?

Also I have a few very tiny rust spots popping up.. like little round spots no larger than like 16GA wire.. so I was going to use my dremel with one of those tiny jewlers bits on it to clean the rust off.. then use the touch up paint to fill the spot in...

Is some sort of anti-rusting agent that I should put on with like a Q-Tip first.. or a primer or a clear coat then?

Also, just in general washing the car.. what is the best way to get all the crap off and leave the car water-spot free? I'd like to touch the paint up then and get a nice shine out of her and apply a good wax.. I don't care if I gotta do a lot of manual labor.. I want her to look nice.. so whats the best way?

Drag0n
04-03-2005, 04:05 AM
my opinion:

you can get a fiberglass sanding pen to go after those tiny rust spots. very handy tool to get into small spaces.

you can get stuff for sealing a preventing rust here -
http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=372

as for washing, i use two buckets, one for clean water, one for dirty water, and two microfiber sponges, one for the top half of the car, and one for the bottom half of the car. get a nice hose nozzle with different patterns and a trigger to vary pressure. after soaping down an area, i use the "shower" spray to clean away the crap, then use light pressure in the same setting to lightly spray the area down without splashing so the water sheets off. theres barely any water left to dry up, so i use an Absorber to finish it up. voila no water spots. after that what you want to do between wash and wax is up to you. im planning on using the meguiar's deep crystal paint system and a mother's claybar tomorrow. a previous owner needed to trade in his power sander for a buffer-scratches everywhere, but oh well.

carlosfandango
04-04-2005, 12:00 AM
what dragon said, plus;

if you do use the dremmel, be very careful, dont take too much away, just the surface rust if its loose.

I cant reccomend products as i'm in the UK bust a Rust Inhibitor isnt a cure, its temporary but should stop further rusting for at least a few of years, if those rust spots are very small try a non abrasive metal polish and a cotton swab or bud - obviously test the metal polish first for reaction to paintwork in a very inconspicuos area and use a very small amount for testing - very bottom edge of sill is good, right under away from the eye.

either way, polished out or dremmeled out - applly the rust inhibitor with a small piece of torn newspaper so it forms a quil - dont use a brush as it holds to much inhibitor and it will stain paintwork. Put a few dabs and let it dry, the active ingrediant is Hydrochloric Acid and it turns red oxide into a blue/black steel again.

then once cured, read the bottle, apply collour matching paint - again, the paint pens arent much good, use the quil technique again with a small torn of section of ordinary newspaper - not glossy paper. ensure the quil comes to a finer point for smaller areas.

you can also apply laquer to the paint - i would suggest leaving the paint to harden for at least 7 days, then use a rubbing compound - not too abrasive though - to smooth out the repairs, make sure you build enough paint to cover the chip but not so much that it stands out more than, say, .5mm. you will never get it perfect unless you use a pro paint shop orbital buffer and finishing compound, that risks taking too much paint off though.

once laquered with the quil technique it can be, again, rubbed down smooth or at least as smooth as you can make it.

wait 7 days for laquer to harden before rubbing down or waxing.

the paper quil teqnique, dont dip the quil into liquid, brush the right amount of paint or whatever onto the quil with a small painters brush.

Once all done, yup good wash, clay bar, a show glaze polish then routine waxing all summer - once you have done that you will avoid further damage to the actual paint work as its the wax that takes the punishment if you get enough on before onset of the autumn.

I use meguires gold class wax.

but at present am building up multiple layers of show car glaze before waxing again, i stripped my paintwork of all waxes etc when i went the clay bar and glaze route. looks very good.

http://www.gt4oc.net/images/owners/b1ea11f97c98eb8681227c7bce275e09.jpg

MoralWarfare
04-04-2005, 07:00 PM
you stole bandwidth!!

Hooligan
04-04-2005, 11:53 PM
I would recommend trying a clay bar on those tiny "rust" spots. They are often not rust, but brake dust. They show up a lot more on light colored cars.

As for the touch up paint, do several LIGHT layers rather than a single heavy one. I prefer to use the end of a toothpick rather than the brush that is included in the bottles. The fine tip makes it a heck of a lot easier to precisely apply and spread the paint.

Here is my detailing regimen:
1. WASH - First, hose the car off to loosen any caked on dirt/dust/etc. I have a white car and I really notice a difference with this step. While letting the car soak, I liberally spray the wheels/tires/wheelwells with some wheel cleaner. I have tried a lot of differe nt kinds and have found that Wurth's works the best. After spraying each wheel liberally, thoroughly rinse the whole car (again) as well as the wheels/tires/wheelwells. When spraying the tires, you can also opt to pop the hood and clean out under there. I really like Simple Green for this (I use it at full strength). Liberally spray down the entire engine bay, trying not to get too much of the degreaser on the exterior paint surfaces (they will be okay because you already have water on them, but you don't want them to get degreaser on them and then dry out while you are finishing something else up). Let the degreaser sit and scrub any trouble areas with a toothbrush or Scotchbrite pad if you wish. Rinse the engine bay and fenders well. I also use the two bucket method, and work from the top of the car down. Rinse the sponge (microfiber) often, and leave the areas below the molding to a separate sponge. I use a mitt with the bug scraper on one side for those areas. After the whole car is washed, I sometimes wash the wheels too (just the wheels though, tire dressing doesn't come out of sponges very well). Rinse the car with an open hose (low pressure, but a high volume of water coming out). Make sure to get all of the soap out of the cracks (mirrors and door jambs, especially).
2. CLAY - Leave the car wet. Get out a clay bar and pinch off a section of it and then flatten it out, somewhat like a pancake. Using a combonation of the water still on the car and some spray on quick detailer, gently rub the entire surface of the car down. You sould be able to rub off any tar/bugs/surface rust/industrial fallout with the bar. Make sure to keep the surface well lubricated with the quick detailer and keep clean clay on the car. If you drop the clay chunk, throw it out. It will have picked up sand and crud from the ground. After this step, I rinse the car again.
3. DRY - I use one of those California water blades to do the majority of the drying. Make sure that the blade doesn't get anything stuck on it or between it and the paint while drying. I then finish drying the car with some all-cotton towels, and wipe down the door jambs and under the hood/trunk with older, retired drying towels.
4. BUFF/POLISH - First would be to abrasively buff the car, either by hand or machine. Hand methods are much slower working, which is good if you haven't ever buffed before or the paint isn't that bad. If you use a machine, it's a good idea to remove or tape off things like hood ornaments, washer sprayers, and rubber trim in order to keep compound/etc out of them. After you get done buffing, use a microfiber towel to wipe off all of the residue and dry buffing compound. Second is to move on to polish. For both buffing and polishing, make sure you use different applicators and microfiber towels.
4. WAX/SEAL - Once again, this can be done with a machine or by hand. Use a separate applicator to apply the wax (I prefer liquid) and different microfiber towels to wipe it off. I usually give the front bumper, hood, and mirrors extra coats of wax to make the finish tougher and easier to clean off.
5. DRESSING - This step is applying things like tire shine, rubber restoring products, etc. This step can also include painting wheel wells and things of that sort (tape off all paint, but overspray can now be claybar'd right off of fresh wax). Take care not to apply too much tire dressing as it will get flung off of the tires and on to your freshly waxed paint.
6. WINDOW WASH - Use razorblades to scrape off anything left on the windows (make sure you use new razorblades). I prefer to use a foamy window cleaner as it usually doesn't streak. Use separate cloths for washing and drying/buffing the windows.
7. INTERIOR - this is probably a big enough subject for a whole nother thread.

All in all, it will probably take you six hours or so the first time. Subsequent details will require less paint work (buffing) and be more of upkeep or preventative paint care.

Sadly, automotive chemicals are not cheap. Get the good stuff the first time around because you will end up using most of it a bunch of times.

carlosfandango
04-06-2005, 02:21 AM
you stole bandwidth!! ??

blck87gtconv
04-22-2005, 09:34 AM
haha.. I've fixed many-a-rock divot in my day. Wow those are a PITA.

Okay, first of all, Hooligan is right by starting with a Clay bar. If the rust remains, 3M makes a terrific fine-sanding pen shaped tool. Sand down to bare metal on the spot, (and transition the paint around it as well for a smooth finish).

Then use a Q-tip to coat the bare metal with a rust converter. Let it dry. More than one application of this stuff may be necessary.

dupli-color makes a touch-up primer. Use this to put down a thin layer in your now nicely leveled divot. Let the primer dry for at least 2 days. If the primer stands higher than the surrounding paint, sand it down with the 3M sanding pen to be a bit lower.

Fill the divot with a LIGHT coating of touch-up paint (Factory is best, but you CAN use a Dupli-color substitute and still achieve good results). Let it dry for 24 hours. If it's nto built up enough, use the 3m pen to roughen up the layer, and apply anotherl ight layer of the touch-up paint.

If you want to use a clear-coat, fill until there is about 2-3 THIN layers of paint worth of clearance between the divot and stock paint, and use the clear-coat from then on. I know Dupli-color makes a touch-up clear coat.

It's a long process that is never completed in just one day. But once the paint level is SLIGHTLY (when I say that, I mean just EVER so slightly) higher than the stock paint, let it dry, and VERY CAREFULLY use 2000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wet sponge, and keep it wet with a rag that you will be keeping in a bucket of filtered water right next to you, and VERY VERY gently, wet-sand it back until it's smooth. To finish up, just detail the body panel, giving the paint cleaner/rubbing compound extra attention right around the newly painted area to help it all blend together.

Stand back, and notice... well, notice nothing. The problem has been fixed.

enjoy. (yes.. I have done this on something much worse than a rock divot as well, and it worked beautifully.)