View Full Version : Bulk info thread /system 10/Toyota wire harness help

12-08-2004, 05:34 AM
I have received several emails and PM's regarding the Metra Wiring Harness ad mounting kit(pocket). Using the wiring harness to add an aftermarket head unit allows you to keep all stock wiring and components, saving you from a complete and sometimes costly rewire of the entire system. Please note: It is best if your aftermarket head unit has a front pre-out and a rear preout. If you are an audiophile, using the amplifier integration kit is not for you. Sound quality will be better over the factory head unit, but some people may experience some noise(This can still be remedied though). I used the kit, because I want my all-trac to remain as stock as possible, and the system 10 sound is still awesome compared to almost any factory system on the market today. I kept factory speakers and added a single 10" IDQ in a .5 cubic foot in the trunk. I would say the sound is just as good as my 2004 Highlander with the full premium JBL system.

Metra will tell you that they don't make a wiring harness for the 90-93 Celica with the system 10. This is incorrect. 70-8112 is listed as TOYOTA AMPLIFIER INTEGRATION HARNESS 1992-UP. Compatible Vehicles: Lexus ES300 4DR Sedan 1992-1995. (But, it will work on the 1992-1993 Celica Sytem 10 and a few late manufactured 91's.)

The same is true for BEST. Their part number is BHA-8112. Listed as 15 Pin Premium Sound w/RCA
1992-1999 Toyota.

Look to spend $16-$25 for the harness. It will save you big money in labor, so it is worth the price. Do not let them charge you more than standard labor if they use this harness, because it is actually easier to install than a typical harness.

The most factory looking pocket to use is Metra's 88-00-8000 - TOYOTA POCKET USE w/FACTORY BRACKETS (APPS PG 32).

Please note: These harness will say 1992 and up; but some 91's did come with the 92 and up version. All 1990 and most 1991 Celica GT-S and All-tracs had a System 10 that had a single din cd player with a serparate single din tape player stacked on top of each other(thus, naking a double din.) These systems had an addition harness and will not work. If you have a 1991 and your unit is a single piece, double-din unit, there is a possibility that this harness will work.

Additional note: Using this kit will/may cause some minor hissing. This is because you will be utilizing speaker wire which is unshielded, unlike aftermarket RCA's. Plus, you are sending a better quality source signal to the factory amplifier that factory components are not equipped to handle. Turning the volume past 1/4 volume will cover it up completely though. On the good side, there is no engine revving noise(whining) at any volume.

Good luck.

12-13-2004, 09:33 PM
*General Information*
Choosing the right speakers/subs for you! (http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=70)

Car Audio: Woofer Enclosures, Woofer box calculators, wiring calculators, ect. *Good start to designing your system setup* (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#por)

Tweaking your system (http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=60)

What is the difference in how you wire subs? Check er out here (http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=68)

What is a passive crossover (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp)

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes (http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp)

Box Building in-depth (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxes.asp)

System Noise Isolation *Thx Luni!!* (http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html)

*More In-depth* Will finsih Later!

Diodes indepth
Ohm's law, a car audio nuts basic bible
About relays
Equalizer Basics

**Celica Specific**

7th GEN: Wiring Harness For 7th Gen GT-S with Premium Sound System - Scosche TA03
7th GEN: How Can I Build A Subwoofer box For One Sub In My 7th Gen?
6th GEN: How Do I Install An Aftermarket Radio in my 6th Gen? *PDF file*
5th GEN: How Do I Install An Aftermarket Radio in my 5th Gen? *PDF file*

System 10 Owners:

david in germany
12-16-2004, 07:14 PM
All, Here is the list I started to help those of you that are interested in keeping your toyota stock.
These Stereos will work in the model years stated in the heading.
Please PM me with info if you have one other than these listed and I will add it.

Toyota Stereos 1989-1998 model years

With External amp

With Internal amp
56400 (controls separate single CD player)
56401 (controls separate single CD player)
56402 (controls separate single CD player)
56403 (controls separate single CD player)
16404 (controls separate single CD player)
A16406 (controls separate single CD player)

Single CD add on players

3 CD changer
Numbers not known

System 10 decks (all have external amp and wiring harness listed below)

System 10 Amplifier harness Part #
Version 1 82163-20100 under console (short)
Version 2 82163-20120 under passenger side trim along door (long)

One note on the harness and decks of the system 10. there seems to have been a change over on the decks date is not know but possibly mid 1992 that caused the need for a different harness (now compatable with most other toyota non amplified decks)

System 10 Amplifier Part #

david in germany
04-01-2005, 06:52 AM
Ok I got asked about the toyota harness adapters and the person that asked for it said we should have a write up. And since picutes are worth a thousand words.....Here is two thousand words!

Remember to use the best connections and insulation that you are capable of (Sodier and heatshrink is the best)


Don't underestimate the power of MS Paint! :bigthumbu

04-04-2005, 05:05 AM

david in germany
04-08-2005, 02:32 PM
Here is a breakdown of the System 10 in the Celica.
It was an option in the GT and GTS models from 90-93 and the convertible had a modified version (missing the rear tweeters)

1st thing on the list was a non amplified deck with CD and cassette or a 2 piece deck with a separate CD player or 3 cd changer (both of which are interchangeable)
there was a variation in the harness and the decks post 1992 when they started using a deck with a common harness to other Toyota amplifiers.

next on the list was the elusive harness (more than 2 variations of it too)
it connects to the car harness for power ground and speaker outputs to the car. and connects the deck and amp together (*odd note* the deck received power from the amp so if the amp is not connected then the deck is dead)
moving on to the amp, the amp is a 5 channel model with 60 watts going to the subs in the door and 25 watts to each other channel.

In the front we have 4 speakers. 1 tweeter in each mirror pod (not the best imaging option but works good enough) and a 4 inch mid woofer in each front panel about knee level.
Subs in the door: The subs in the doors are 8" woofers for the (bass up front)
In the rear we have a 6.5 midrange (Crutchfield is wrong) and above that in the rear deck mounts another pair of tweeters.

The deck and amp are signal matched components so replacing one or the other will almost always cause some type of problems...


05-18-2005, 01:51 PM
Do you have a factory harness in the car, or was it all chopped apart?

If you have the factory harness, use:

70-1761 - TOYOTA 1987-UP - INTO CAR

If not then cross match the wires to this:
1994 Toyota Celica Stereo Information
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination Green
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Black/Red
Antenna Left Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Pink
Left Front (-) Purple
Right Front (+) Light Green
Right Front (-) Blue
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Side Panels
Left Rear (+) Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Red
Right Rear (-) White

Disco Dan
06-15-2005, 05:29 PM
Ok I don't know if this will help, but after extensive research and little success, there are a few things I've learned. One is this:


On the stock system 10 harnesses, there were two different types of connections that went from the harness to the deck. The earlier one is the top layout, with the later one being underneath it. Both connectors had the same wire colors, but in a slightly different configuration. I had to do up this diagram because I wanted to use a deck that had the newer type of pin configuration, but had a harness with an older connector on it. So I used a tiny screwdriver to get all the terminals out of the old one, and re-inserted them into the newer harness. No luck, but it could also be the amp or deck that's bad, so that's my current issue. But anyway, that diagram may help, or it may not. Dunno.


07-22-2005, 02:40 AM
ersk, I take it you're talking about the 4 signal wires from the factory headunit?
They all shared a common ground. If you look at this
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/4300/10010611hl.th.jpg (http://img308.imageshack.us/my.php?image=10010611hl.jpg)

The green and purple rcas in the top of the pic. Follow the wires [black] from them. When you get to the connector, you will see the grounds go to a single wire.

07-22-2005, 02:43 AM
OK, here's how to reprogram the codes in these beatches.

First off, IF the security code is activated [The headunit has to have a code stored by a owner. The factory doesn't preset them. At least not in the 5th g Celicas.], when the headunit is repowered up, the display will read SEC continuously [it won't go off], and nothing will work.
If you have the security code, here's what you do.
Press and hold the tune [FF] button. While holding it, press the 1 [PROG] button.
The display should read ---^
Press the 1 [PROG] button repeatedly until the correct first number [of the code] appears.
Then press the 2 [APS] button until the second number appears.
Then press the 3 [RPT] buttom for the third number.
Now, press the SCAN button and hold it until SEC appears in the display, and then goes dark [clears].
Headunit should now work.

Now, if you get a ERR message in the display, you've put the wrong code in, or you did something wrong.
If you get the ERR code 10 times, the headunit will lock up, and you have to use the dealer code.

You cannot use the dealer code unless the headunit is locked up.

To get the dealer code:
Determine model and manufacturer for the headunit.
Model number is on the front of the headunit. Manufacturer should be on the top/back of the headunit.
If you don't have it out/can't find the sticker,
If the model number begins with 1,2,3,A1, A2,A3, the man is Fujitsu Ten
If it begins with 5,6,7,A5,A6,A7, the man is Panasonic
If it begins with AD, the man is Delco.

The dealer will have to call one of these numbers, depending on man.
Delco-(800) 448 0944
Fujitsu Ten-(800) 237 5413
Panasonic-(800) 367 7689

They [service manager] will have to provide
Dealer name and code
Service manager name and social
Vehicle VIN
Headunit model number

This will allow them to get the lockout code for your particular headunit.

To input the 6 digit code:
Turn the headunit on. Display should read HLP or HELP
Simultaneously hold the 1,4, and 6 buttons, then simultaneously press and hold the PWR button until SEC appears.
Simultaneously press and hold the TUNE^ button and the 1 button until ---^ appears on the display.

Once you start inputting the code, if 3 seconds or longer elapse without pressing a button, you will have to start over again.

Press the 1 button until the first number of the code appears.
Then press the 2 button until the second number appears.
Then press the 3 button until the third number appears.

Then press and hold the vTUNE button and the 1 button until v---appears on the display

Press the 1 button for the 4th number
Press the 2 button for the 5th number
Press the 3 button for the 6th number

Press and hold the SCAN button until SEC appears on the display. It should then clear.
And the headunit should work and have no code.

08-23-2005, 11:20 AM
System 10 woofer info.
This is from various members. For ease of viewing I combined it all in this post.

Something like this? 8" Speakers (http://www.cartoys.com/cartoys/showprod.cfm/topcatID/20004/topcat_id/20004/catid/20005/speaker_size/8)

here ya go! 8" replacement woofer for under $13.00
Partsexpress woofer (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-310)

As for the Kicker 8" speaker, look for the #RMB8. It fits nicely and sounds good. Ebay has been having them for $89.00 a set plus $22.00 S/H. I have a set in the 92 Celica and I highly recommend them. They took a little modification to fit in the speaker housing, but it was nothing major.

AVI makes some good subs and mid-basses in small sizes. The SL-200 is an eight-inch sub. You should be aware, AVI's stuff is high quality, and even their entry-level lines are above average in performance and price.

www.avisound.com (http://www.avisound.com/)

I only know of one place which sells AVI, Speaker City in Vancouver. If you're in the US (your profile doesn't give a location) there's no duty since the speakers are manufactured in Canada -- finally, an upside to NAFTA.

www.speakercity.ca (http://www.speakercity.ca/)

Few other 8" subs have come to my attention, all off the cardomain.com site:

Boss Riot RT8 Subwoofer $16.95
Injection Molded Polypropylene Cone 125W RMS Peak Power 250W

Kicker Comp 03C84 Subwoofer $38.95
Comp Series 8-Inch 4 Ohms

Sony XS-L81P5 Subwoofer $49.95
8-Inch P5 Polypropylene Cone Foamed Rubber Surround Steel Basket 4 Ohms

Audiobahn AW831T Subwoofer $59.95
8-Inch Dual 4 Ohms Natural Sound Series KM3 Coated Paper Cone Flame Stamped Steel Basket

Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1 P18S8 Subwoofer $47.95*
8-Inch 8 or 4 Ohms 150-300W

Kicker CompVR 03CVR84 Subwoofer $62.95
Comp VR Series 8-Inch Dual 4 or 8 Ohms

Polk Audio MM Series MM2084 Subwoofer $89.95
8" Metalized Poly Cone MOMO Designed Steel Basket 4 Ohms

Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 2 P28S4 Subwoofer $71.95
Punch Stage 2 Series 8-Inch 4 or 8 Ohms

MTX Audio Thunder5500 T5508-04 Subwoofer $89.95
8-Inch Thunder5500 Series 4 or 8 Ohms Asymmetrical Linear Drive

Image Dynamics ID8 v.3 Subwoofer $109.95
ID v.3 Series 8-Inch Dual 2 or 4 Ohms

These are pretty much all sale prices, USD. I have no idea what, if any, will fit since I don't know the mounting depth on Celica door panels.

3.4" i believe
What you need is a midwoofer (thats what the 8" celica speakers are)
Kicker makes the best midwoofer (in an 8" replacement) out there, I got mine for 230$(??) a woofer 2 years ago (since have been sold)

it is exactly 3" to the back of the stock mount. You can cut it out and have a little bit more room.

So I guess the question would be, how much further beyond the stock mount depth is safe before the speakers get in the way of the windows. And that doesn't even take into consideration the fact that if you cut out the back of the stock surrounds, you're making your speakers vulnerable to water. The surrounds have a semi-circular cover that keeps the magnets covered where they stick into the door, and if you cut out the back of the surrounds, it eliminates that cover. HMMMM... this does limit one's options with door woofers... basically anything over 3" mounting depth will require fabrication and possibly muck up the function of the windows and/or the speakers? Back to the drawing board, I guess.

Disco Dan
08-23-2005, 11:27 PM
ok here are the specifications:

Power handling: 20 watts RMS/40 watts max
VCdia: 1"
Le: .85 mH
Impedance: 8 ohms
Re: 5.75 ohms
Fs: 40 Hz
SPL: 90 dB 2.83V/1m
Vas: 2.26 cu. ft.
Qms: 6.10
Qes: .60
Qts: .54
Xmax: 2 mm
Dimensions: A: 8-1/4", B: 7-1/4", C: 3".

I'm not sure which of those indicates whether it's dual voice coil or not. It seems to me that if the majority of woofers aren't dual voice coil, then unless a description stated otherwise, it would just be a single voice coil, right? And yes, I know these woofers don't have much power, but then again, they're 10 bucks each!

08-24-2005, 03:48 AM
Installation instructions for a aftermarket headunit in 5th and 6th gens.
Note: it does not cover the sys 10 harness.

radio installation guides for the fifth-gen (http://www.installdr.com/InstallDoc.../PDF/869033.pdf (http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869033.pdf)) and sixth-gen (http://www.installdr.com/InstallDoc.../PDF/869009.pdf (http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869009.pdf))

09-27-2005, 07:48 AM
I bought a new head unit recently (pre: not amplified) and want to use the factory amp in my 1995 Celica. The connector coming going into amp looks like this:


Colors are as follows:
1: Green/Silver dots
2: Yellow/Silver dots
3: White/Silver dots
4: Black/Silver dots
5: White/Silver dots
6: Red/Silver dots
7: Green/Silver dots
8: Red/Silver dots
9: Blue/Silver dots
10: NA
11: White/Black stripe/Brown dot
12: Brown/Silver dots
13: Black/Silver dots
14: Yellow/Silver dots
15: Blue/Silver dots

They have taken 2 cables (6 leads in one, 7 in another, plus a ground = 14) to connect the two ends. Pin 11 is ground, at least in this cable. I bought this car used and am replacing an aftermarket P.O.S. head unit (which was alreayd amplified, so they bypassed the factory amp altogether), so this cable may not be the one that came with the factory stereo, but I'm thinking it is.

What I would like to do is chop one connector off and connect the leads straight to the leads on my new unit. Anyone know which leads are which? Help!!

10-16-2005, 01:05 PM
Hey ST184_GT-S, i'm pretty sure the static noise is from the stock amp. I had the same problem but when i got rid of the amp and installed an aftermarket deck the sound is now AMAZING. I suggest getting rid of that 15yr old amp and either run the 8" subs off a diff amp and the rest of the speakers off ur deck. Or just run all the speakers off ur deck. As for splicing wires its pretty easy, the only thing that takes a while is finding out which wire is which, even with a diagram it seemed different. This diagram is straight from the toyota dealership :D.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4470/scan00014zz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/7956/scan00028yw.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/9861/scan00038ml.jpg (http://imageshack.us)