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View Full Version : Coilovers vs springs $



PittsburghCeli
12-27-2009, 04:46 AM
I need a new suspension in the front and rear and I was thinking about getting some eibach springs and kyb gr-2 shocks as well as the top and bottom insulators, mounts, boots and camber kits. That all cost around $900.

The K-sport coilovers (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93-Celica-KSPORT-Kontrol-Pro-Coilover-Springs_W0QQitemZ270462762927QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMo tors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ef8d63f af) I saw on ebay are like $950.

I guess the coilovers are better because they are adjustable so I don't need to do any more math and get the coliovers? Also if I get those, would they be any harder than installing the eibach springs?

Also is this a good deal for $72 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUSPENSION-Toyota-CELICA-90-91-92-93-BALL-SWAY-ROD-ENDS_W0QQitemZ140330500162QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20ac598042) - 2 ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, and front and rear sway bar links. Is the rubber going to be like oem, better or worse? too cheap?

Then I get the wheel spacers to complete my suspension project.

Thanks

PittsburghCeli
12-27-2009, 04:54 AM
These Megan coilovers (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan-Coilover-Damper-Kit-Toyota-Celica-90-91-92-93-GTS_W0QQitemZ320459147207QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9cda87c7) look better

METDeath
12-27-2009, 05:00 AM
K-sports have had issues with QC, so much so that one test with a shock dyno (not sure what the technical term is) found that with the two front struts that they received, they couldn't even get the dampening rates to match up by setting one strut to the hardest rate and the other to the softest rate. Now, Megan I've heard good things about, and I think RedRkt can get a decent price on those, not sure on the exact figure though.

As for installation, any coil over install is going to be easier (except for sleeve kits) than a spring install. Simply due to the fact that when installing a coil over it comes as a complete assembly ready for installation. When you install spring/strut combos you have to assemble them yourself. Also, not sure on what Eibach springs you were planning on getting, but my personal experience with the Sportline (1.5" drop) and KYB GR-2s is that the springs are more than they can handle and the ride is pretty bad, and bounces a lot; meaning the springs are doing more of the suspension work, not an even mix of the two.

Carolina91GT-S
12-27-2009, 05:11 AM
I have been researching and thinking about this for a while and I am going with the Megan Racing coilover set as soon as I recoup form Christmas.

PittsburghCeli
12-27-2009, 04:06 PM
What about the suspension kit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUSPENSION-Toyota-CELICA-90-91-92-93-BALL-SWAY-ROD-ENDS_W0QQitemZ140330500162QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20ac598042) ? $72 has got to be very cheap metal and rubber right? The stock parts alone are like $400-500.
Thanks again Metdeath, I got your advice previously (http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44134) about the sportline setup and I was thinking about the proline eibach springs with 1 inch drop, but now I am leaning towards the megan coilovers, especially if Carolina did the research already:) Thanks for the dampening rate tip on cheap coilovers and research.

PittsburghCeli
12-27-2009, 04:25 PM
Also does anyone know if I would need a spring compression tool to install the coilovers or just adjust them to as short as they will get and see if they fit? I thinking to install them I would have to do both as in adjust them to the shortest setting, then make the spring even tighter with the compression tool, then adjust or disassemble, then fit them in and uncompress.

PittsburghCeli
12-27-2009, 04:30 PM
Another question I have is about the top plate in the engine compartment and rear towers, would those need upgraded? and where can I buy?

Murgatroy
12-27-2009, 05:04 PM
If you get Coilovers, that is all you need. You will not need the mounts. You will not have to assemble them or 'disassemble' your stock set-up other than to remove it.

As for the rebuild kit, I have seen it cheaper than $72. I have seen it for $50 shipped.

I don't know about the quality, but I intend to purchase the same thing, sans the sway bar endlinks. I don't run a front sway bar.

The bushings will most likely be rubber like stock, however, it will be new, as opposed to 20 years old.

You can get Megans for <$1000 Shipped from Redrockt.

I am going with Megans.

joe's gt
12-27-2009, 09:54 PM
So you said $900 for OEM, or around the same for coilovers? What is there to discuss. lol. I am going to put megans on my car when the funds become available.

PittsburghCeli
12-28-2009, 05:44 AM
I see what you are saying Murgatroy after checking a picture, it's too cold to do anything outside here for a while. The engine bay will have upgraded bolts and a red top with adjusters inside of the bolt triangle. I guess anything is better than 20 year old rubber.
So the shopping list is:
Megan coilovers $1000
Suspension kit with ball joints, inner & outer tie rods, sway bar links $72
Sway bar bushings $20
Front and rear engine mounts $60
Crossmember bushings from speed source $88
Wheel adapters $150
Grand total $1390 and at least weeks worth of work at least for me. I am thinking most of the time spent on the inner tie rods because I have never done those. Don't forget an alignment for another $100 after it's all together. Plus I need a rear lateral link for another hundred...always something! That should make the Celica better than new for another 20 years unless there is a problem with the wheel bearings or control arms.

METDeath
12-28-2009, 06:09 AM
What are you doing for the engine mounts? 3M Window Weld or something?

PittsburghCeli
12-28-2009, 01:24 PM
I just got new stock ones, no inserts. What is the window weld? Does it fill in the holes?

Murgatroy
12-28-2009, 01:56 PM
If you haven't done wheel bearings, I would do them too.

METDeath
12-28-2009, 03:45 PM
I just got new stock ones, no inserts. What is the window weld? Does it fill in the holes?

Yeah, it's basically a cheap way to get Poly mounts. Where are you getting them for $60? I know 1sttoyota has them at something like 90 per mount. RedRckt has press in poly ones that you can pick your type, that is Poly and has some nice choices based on what the car is used for.

PittsburghCeli
12-28-2009, 08:00 PM
I have seen those motor mounts redrockt is selling, but I could not figure out the press in part? I got stock mounts from autozone, my mistake I was thinking $24 and 35, they were $54 for the rear and $36 for the front = $90. Incidently, Autozone and Napa have the mounts mislabeled for the manual and automatic transmissions. I have a manual tranny and the one for the automatic tranny is really the one for the manual.
I like the 3m window weld idea, wonder if home depot sells it? Need something that would flex a little stiffer than stock and would protect it forever. A filled in with poly would be the best. I was thinking about doing something ghetto like that but all I could come up with for the time being was rtv silicone and it didn't seem like a good idea. I also thought about the 3m expanding foam for insulating cracks but that still didn't seem like a good idea either so I didn't do anything but new them. I will use that thanks.
I have had the front hub done on my last expensive inspection, and that will be the last expensive one ever, I mean a mechanic will never fix my car again since all the new knowledge and experience in the past year (clutch, timing belt, lock actuator, also a new car alarm with remote start and all the sensors teaches car wiring). I am ready for my ASE certification test. lol j/k All good stuff! I figure the car will be better than new for another 20 years with no car payment when I get done. I also pulled a passenger side front spindle from a junkyard and it's just sitting in my garage. I also replaced one hub assembly in the back with a junkyard one. They all seem fine. thanks. I burn rubber everyday driving 100 miles all around town, different places everyday around the tri-state area so my car takes a beating. I fix supermarket cash registers, and computers and I park in between 2 cars and they don't care if they bang your door with there door so I have many small dings. Then there are people that shouldn't be driving that I see daily.

METDeath
12-28-2009, 10:18 PM
You basically take them to a machine shop, have them cut/press the old ones out, and press the new ones in, like a bearing.

KoreanJoey
12-28-2009, 11:30 PM
Don't need a machine shop. The mounts have an inner steel liner, separate from the outer steel. Take a jigsaw and carefully cut just the inner steel liner. That should release the tension on the rubber/inner liner from the rest of the mount. And just hammer it through. The ones can probably get clamped in with a vise.

METDeath
12-29-2009, 01:59 AM
I knew about the hacksaw trick to get them out. Wasn't sure on do anything other than taking them to a machine shop and say "put this in".

PittsburghCeli
12-29-2009, 02:21 PM
Good idea on the poly mounts! I could see how the vise could press it in and a hacksaw can remove them. Removal and installation all makes sense now. Thanks Joey and Metdeath! Now we can at least consider putting those in ourselves for $70 each.