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CriScO
12-11-2009, 12:54 AM
The coupe just stuttered and died about 1/4 mile from my apartment. Unfortunately it was on a fucking freeway overpass, so nowhere to go. She idled at first but would die when the throttle was open, then wouldn't idle anymore.

$90 to get her towed to the apartment. It's below zero and dark right now, so I can't look at her until tomorrow.

I just hope it was ignition, not the fuel pump going out again. If it is ignition though, it's kinda my fault because I've been putting off a tune up since I got back from the meet in April.

But still, damnit.

Grot
12-11-2009, 12:59 AM
That sucks man. Hope its the ignition as well. Fuel pump aint cheap.

MCcelica
12-11-2009, 06:13 AM
Take care of your car... TURDBURGLAR!!!

:sneak:

The Captain
12-11-2009, 10:46 AM
How's the back seat oil level?

Nitro_Alltrac
12-11-2009, 02:50 PM
Damn Chris, that sucks! Hopefully it is ignition. It would majorly SUCK to have to drop the tank in 0 degree weather.

Shadowlife25
12-11-2009, 08:58 PM
Back seat oil level should be good since I spoke to him last Capn'.
There is now an oil processing and reclamation facility back there.:hehe:

Check the plugs too bro, and give me a call if you need any help.(over the Phone)

CriScO
12-11-2009, 09:33 PM
It's warming up now, we had about a week and a half long cold snap. Should be in the 40's when the suns out for the next few days.

Mario, plugs are the first thing I'm taking out. You know of my blow-by issues. :D

MC, dick. :hehe:

John, :madfawk: It's a little lower than it was, but should still be optimal. :hehe:

What really pissed me off that I forgot to mention, was that she started right up and went reverse with no problem backing her off of the tow truck. I'm willing to bet when I walk outside she'll start right up and I can move her into another parking spot...

Shadowlife25
12-11-2009, 09:41 PM
I know you know the usual suspects here, so I'll leave that stuff to you.
If you haven't already, try to test the TPS as well. Just a shot in the dark on that one.

And as always, check the codes first thing. Any stored codes should pop up immediately.
Non-stored coded will only show up after a bit of driving, but no need for that just now. :)

Luni
12-11-2009, 09:51 PM
I vote timing belt.

Murgatroy
12-11-2009, 10:48 PM
I vote timing belt.
That was my first thought.

If it jumped instead of breaking that would explain it all.

Timing belts are easier to diagnose when they straight up break though.

Shadowlife25
12-11-2009, 11:28 PM
Nah, just pull the upper timing cover, get it to TDC and check the cam marks.

Should take about 30 minutes. An hour maybe since it's damn cold out.

Luni
12-11-2009, 11:32 PM
Timing belts are cakewalk to diagnose. You dont even need to pull the upper timing cover. You can pull off the valve cover. Easy as fuck on a 3SFE.

Also, its pretty simple. Compression test. If it has spark and low compression across the board, money says it has jumped time. If it has compression across the board, but no spark, then its dizzy/ignition related. If it has compression and spark, its most likely fuel. Spray some ether into the intake and see if the fucker starts.

I can troubleshoot toyotas EFI systems in my sleep. :p

CriScO
12-12-2009, 12:06 AM
You fools underestimate the damage I can do to an ignition system. :hehe:

She purrs like a kitten at idle now, but I only drove a few feet to put her in my normal parking space. I'll see if she keeps running tomorrow. I don't think she'd idle that well had the timing belt jumped, but I'll admit my knowledge is a little lax in that area.

I'll put pics up in a bit.

Luni
12-12-2009, 12:17 AM
No, she wouldnt.

Yeah, all you tards who want to put a 'performance' ignition on a 'non performance engine' take this to heart.

CriScO
12-12-2009, 12:25 AM
It's okay, the car runs great until everything melts! :hehe:

CriScO
12-12-2009, 12:29 AM
:sneak:
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0824.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0825.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0826.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0830.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0833.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/0/8/8/DSCF0834.jpg
:laugh:

Shadowlife25
12-12-2009, 12:32 AM
"It's okay, Don't worry about it...."

Right? :hehe:

Shadowlife25
12-12-2009, 12:33 AM
Chris..... How the F did you manage that?!

MrWOT
12-12-2009, 12:52 AM
.....

Tuneup does NOT mean, fix it when it starts to run like ass. That thing was already missing if it was that worn :p

CriScO
12-12-2009, 12:52 AM
My theory is that the bar connecting the coil contact and center rotor contact cracks over time, and starts to arc. The amount of current running through my MSD setup must amplify the arc enough to melt the plastic, as it would generate more heat.

Or it could simply be more power/heat then the stock cap is designed to handle.

I originally gained 3-4 MPG with the setup, but that dropped off over time. But coupled with the intake and exaust mods the car holds power up to about 5800RPM(3S-FE redline is 6k), so I'm happy. I just have to do the cap/wires a little more often than most. This is only the second one in three and a half years it's happened to. Both were the cheap line.

CriScO
12-12-2009, 12:53 AM
I know WOT, I paid the price for putting it off.

rizin
12-12-2009, 12:55 AM
A little bubble gum some duct tape will fix all and I fogot the paper clip. Or is that a recipie for a bomb?

How many miles on the tune-up? Glad It was somthing that needed to be done. To bad it cost 90 dollars more in the process.

MrWOT
12-12-2009, 01:10 AM
Buy a brass/copper cap/rotor online and make sure to seal the cap and the wires with dielectric grease

Lonestag
12-12-2009, 01:27 AM
Man, just read the thread, hope the ignition problem works itself out unlike the one on my vert!

rizin
12-12-2009, 02:41 AM
Sorry my last post was a little slow on the typing part kids interupt me all the time so my reply reflects it.

From a electical stand point on this. When you deal with copper and aluminum conductors, copper conducts somewhere around 50% more amps then alu. The other thing is copper can handle being bent more then alu. So that might help if it come from the peice being broke(vibration caused break maybe). So MrWot idea might not be to bad of an idea at all.

CriScO
12-12-2009, 03:08 AM
Man, just read the thread, hope the ignition problem works itself out unlike the one on my vert!
Well, mine are caused by me, so I can't really complain. :)

Copper is a good idea guys, should've thought of it years ago. *smacks self* It's probably not going to be easy with the cap+wires only available as a set though. What really sucks is that we just started carrying OmniSpark wires a little while back, and they have the removable wire design. I was all pumped about that, but if/when this cap does it again I'll have to give it up.

I need to start looking into distributor swaps again. I'd like to go with a second revision 5S one, but the fact that it's meant for 5mm wires might just make things worse.

The 2S-E cap is identical to mine in basic shape, but with different mounting points. The wire contacts also go out toward the sides of the cap instead of straight out the front. It's made for larger wires and already has a coil contact. I think I'm going to look into that one. Only other problem I remember was that something was in the way of the wire posts, but I'm pretty sure I could get around it easily.

And yes, I know there's really no point, but this is fun to me. :D

rizin
12-12-2009, 05:30 AM
Sorry Chris if wires fail they are the problem if the cap fails it is the problem. I can stick any size of of wire on a chepo Dist. Cap and the Dist. Cap will fail again. Sorry fix the problem and go from there.

CriScO
12-12-2009, 07:03 AM
^ Not what I meant. I'd be swapping distributors AND getting a copper cap. It's about availability, having removable wires, and not having to modify every cap to take the external coil.