View Full Version : '92 ST 4age20v swap

12-10-2009, 03:15 PM
Year: 1992
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica ST
Style/Body: Coupe 2D
Class: Sport Car - Touring
Engine: 1.6L I4 MPI
Country of Assembly: Japan
Vehicle Age: 17 year(s)
Calculated Owners: 2
Last Reported Odometer Reading: 115,850

ENGINE: 4AGE 20v Silvertop
COLOR: White

Aftermarket Accessories:
2.25" exhaust, intake, KYB GR2, Ground Control Coilovers

12-10-2009, 03:16 PM
It's already swapped, but I got it home and threw on the upper suspension bar from a GT.
Colossus20v included a package of silicon hoses, so I'm going to start swapping those.
He gave me a bunch of goodies that will eventually be where they belong.

ST stock 4AFE:
103 hp @ 6000 rpm
101 lb·ft @ 3200 rpm

4A-GE 20v:
158 hp @ 7400 rpm
119 ft·lb @ 5200 rpm

JDM C56 5-speed transmission
ACT 2ZZ-GE (7th gen Celica GTS) 212mm clutch

Now, the previous owner's (Colossus20v) dream was to 7age 20v it using the 7A-FE block, crank & rods and 4AGE 20v head & pistons.


So I guess the deal is to source a 7afe block, get a 2-layer metal headgasket, adjustable pulleys, a Porsche 944 timing belt, new injectors and seals, etc.

Replaced all the vacuum lines and the outlet water hose.
For those doing the swap and wondering about radiator hoses, Kelly Springfield M-595 ($10) fits perfectly after cutting about an inch and a half off one end. The short end where there is an immediate curve goes on the outlet, while the piece you cut off of goes on the radiator spout. You'll need 3/4" to 1 3/4" hose clamps.

12-10-2009, 03:16 PM
Being Rev2, it has the rear lights I love.
I'm ordering the JDM (or ripoffs) clear corners and turn signals.
There's a little rust on the hood, so I'm sanding that down and painting it.
Apparently a jeep hitch rammed the front bumper, and there's a square punched in on the passenger side. I'm going to either try and pull it out to fill it with rubber bumper adhesive, or get a new bumper...
It's already white with black trim, so I'm thinking I'll do the hood trim (scoop and vents) in black.

Pictures at its old home. Most of the leaves were cleaned up when I picked it up, but luckily I found some stragglers I could take home.

12-10-2009, 03:16 PM
KYB GR2s in Ground Control coil-overs

Wheels are BSA 233 (17x7.0) with Kumho Ecsta AST 205/40/17 tires

Apparently the new brake calipers rubbed against the rims, so they were shaved down a little to allow clearance.
I'm going to paint these.

12-10-2009, 03:17 PM
Disclaimer: This is not a step by step how to article. This swap is not very common because of the difficulties that people have had to put up with. That is the reason why there are not a whole lot of people who have completed the swap. Please do the research before attempting this swap. You have to research and get everything together before you begin the swap. You do not want to have your car's downtime to be very long. Therefore to complete this swap in a timely manner and efficiently you have to plan just like any other swap.

What is it? A 4AGE 20Valve is a 4 cylinder 1.6l engine with 20valves in the head rather than the conventional 16v. It houses three valves on the intake side and two on the exhaust side. It was also one of the first releases of Toyota's Variable Valve Timing(VVT). Toyota rated this engine putting out 160 hp from the silvertop and 165 from the blacktop. The 4AGE has been produced in many high performance vehicles and even in Formula cars thus making it one of the most widely used engines Toyota has ever produced.

Preparing to swap: There are a lot of things to consider when preparing to swap motors. First you need to ask yourself: "What do you want out of the vehicle you are thinking about swapping motors into." Answering that one question will save you a lot of time and hassle. If you are looking for a drag car please do not look at this reference any longer. You want either a 3sgte, or some other larger displacement engine. A 4AGE Silvertop has a lot of potential (see Tuning and Modifying) however you must keep in mind it is a 1.6l engine stock. Next step is to BUY A FRONT CLIP!!! I say this because I bought just an engine and wiring harness and ecu, and strongly encourage against it. You will save yourself a lot of headache doing this because you will see where each wire is coming from and goes where, thus making the swap a little easier. Wiring will be the biggest problem you have with the swap. If you choose not to buy a clip, make sure you get the correct AFM and coil/ignitor. Check the PARTS LIST if you need specific parts. Also, you will want to change the belts and other things while you have the engine on a stand or out of the car. This is also the best opportunity to clean up all of the parts and other things that may be dirty in the engine bay or on the engine.

Installation: All of the mechanical components fit well in the car. The left motor mount will need to either be shaved down a little bit or cut the came gear cover a little bit. The exhaust will need to be redone. Fitting the engine in is not real difficult, I would suggest taking the air accumulator box off because it is just immense and you do not want to dent it. Other than that it all is pretty self explaining since you already took the 4afe out.

Power Steering: Power steering lines will need to be redone and fabricated to work properly. You will need to run a hard line from the power steering pump to the rack.

AC: Will also need to be redone. My ac was already not functioning properly, so I need to address this. The lines need to be re-ran down the left side and hooked up. It should work though with your current ac system.

Fuel Pump: You can use your stock fuel pump, however it is suggested that you replace it with a newer fuel pump. Your pump was probably never replaced before and therefore is older. You can replace it with whatever you wish. The stock fuel pump will work well enough but you may wish to upgrade.

Axels: You can use your stock axels as well if you would like to. If you purchased a clip you can just use everything from the clip.

Exhaust: If you purchase just an engine setup then you should receive the stock manifold, but you may not receive the down pipe. Therefore you have to have a down pipe fabricated which just about any competent exhaust shop should be able to make. I was able to purchase a JGW Header and flange for the down pipe and then have one made.

Intake: Most people just put a filter on the end of the AFM. You should have some space to direct the filter where there should be some airflow. Basically you will have a ram air intake which works but is better if it can suck in cold air. So try to place it as far away from the engine as possible.

Transmission: You can use the stock AT180 tranny. Once again you may have a higher mileage tranny and therefore may want a lower mileage tranny. Hence another reason to buy a clip. All of the C series transmissions will bolt onto the "A" series engines without any problems. There are a couple different transmissions to consider. The C52 comes with the silvertop and if you are lucky you may be able to find a C56 (six speed).

Battery: It is suggested that you move the battery to the trunk so that there will be more room in the engine bay. There is no reason to not move the battery. You can purchase kits from many different manufacturers. But you will be satisfied with the freed up space in the engine bay.

Wiring: The wiring is what makes this swap the biggest headache and causes most people to either get stuck with the swap or not even begin it. Do not think you can just jump into this swap and tackle this task unless you have experience in wiring. You need the factory BGB for the celica and then you also need the ecu pinouts for the 4age 20V. Another reason to buy the clip is so you can see the gauge wires and see where each wire came from. It is advised that you take the 20V wiring loom and put it next to the stock loom. Then compare and plan out what will need to be wired up and where you have to connect the looms. The gauge cluster wires will need to be connected and some other wires. If you get confused and are not too sure about some things you will either need to check the wires with a multi-meter or you may want to consider a standalone ECU such as a megasquirt setup.

Post Swap Issues:

Low rev limit: Due to wrong coil/ignitor.

Milky under cap: due to condensation if the engine is not ran for a while.

Check for ECU codes: Bridge T1 and E1 and turn the ignition on and count how many times the engine light blinks.


Reality of the swap: Please understand that this engine is still a 1.6l engine. It is not torquey in anyway. It is a lot more fun than a 4AFE/7AFE but lacks in some areas. The engine wakes up in the higher rpms. This engine is a lot of fun and is about a 40 hp difference from the 4afe, so there is a big difference when you first begin to drive the car. You should not be disappointed if you understand these things about the engine. There are things you can do to address the issues that the engine has, and there is potential in it. Parts are a little limited in the US however can definitely be sourced out and cross referenced with other Toyota engines.

Tuning: Coming soon…

Modifying: Coming soon…


4age 20valve parts list

ECU diagrams

Repair Manual








Accessory Belt (AC & PS) 99365-21060
Air Flow Meter (AFM) 22250-16110
Alternator 27060-16360 27060-16360
4a Alternator works just need to change plugs
Alternator Belt 99365-80840
Brake Booster 44610-1A420 44610-1A430
Coil Wire 90919-13418
Cylinder Head Cover Nut, washer 90176-08047, 90210-09016
Distributor 19100-16270
Distributor Cap 19101-16010
Distributor O Ring All 4A series
Engine Gasket Kit Valve Grind 04112-16210 04112-16330
Exhaust Cam Sprocket 13050-16040
Exhaust Valve Guide Bush 11126-16010, 11127-16010 o/s 0.05
Exhaust Valve Seat 11135-16030 std, 11136-16030 o/s 0.03
Fuel Pressure Regulator 23280-16140
Head Gasket 11115-16111
Idle Speed Control Valve 22270-16030
Ignition Coil 90919-02197
3sfe, 2jzge, 3SGTE, early 4-Runners
Ignition Rotor 19102-74040
Beck Arnley 1737967, Kem W2052, Wells JA995
Inner CV Boot 04438-12420
Repco 100-051
Intake Cam Sprocket 13050-16010
Intake Valve Guide Bush 11122-16030 std, 11122-16040 sub, 11123-16030 o/s 0.05
Intake Valve Seat 11132-16030 o/s 0/03, 11147-16030 std
Oil Filler Cap 12180-46010
2jzge, Stant 10113
Oil Filter 90915-10002
4age, K&N 1003
Outer CV Boot 04438-12260
Repco 200-037
PCV Valve 12204- 11050
Standard V330, Napa 2-9405
Power Steering Pump 04454-12010
PS Belt Adjusting Bracket 16381-16070
Rear Main Seal
Felpro BS40409, Beck Arnley 052-3258, Corteco 17199
Spark Plug 5 wire set 90919-21520
Spark Plug Tube Gasket 11193-16010
Spark Plug Valve Cover 11212-16060
Spark Plug Wires 90919-15207, 90919-15206, 90919-15205, 90919-15204
Spark Plugs 90919-01178 or 01179
Thermostat 90916-03090
ALL 4A series
Timing Belt 13568-19035, 13568-19185
Gates T081, Goodyear 40081, Beck Arnley 0260254, TODA,
Valve Adjusting Shim (Lifter) 13751-16020
Valve Cover Gasket 11213-16020, 11213-16021 sub
Valve Stem Oil Sear/O Ring Ex 90913-02092
Echo, Prius
Valve Stem Oil Sear/O Ring In 90913-02093
Echo, Prius
VVT Cam Valve 15330-16020
Water Pump 16100-19245
Water Pump Gasket 16124-16040
Water Pump O Ring ALL 4A series

01-24-2010, 11:14 AM
Okay, so I'm replacing the clutch. Everything is out of the car.

Decided, with all the downtime, to get POR15 and coat the engine bay and underbody.

I then cleaned up and painted the engine.
And the transmission case. I also cleaned it out, and installed the new throwout bearing.

Here's a shot of the son of a bitch winkin'. I still haven't replaced the light motor or whatever is wrong with it.

Old clutch, new clutch. Big difference.

And the pressure plate

02-16-2010, 08:23 AM
I spent the majority of the day detailing the car.
Used rubbing compound on all paint to remove sun hazing and bring back the shine of the paint, then wax to seal it. Back-to-Black on all trim pieces. Replaced my windshield wiper blades after repainting the arms.

I got a carbon fiber All Trac hood from METDeath in trade for my hood, and took the time to fix it up as well.
His complaint about a gap in the hood isn't as visible on my car, and we lined it up pretty much perfectly.
There are a few cracks in the clearcoat, but I'm not worried about those.
It had holes for the washer spray nozzles, but they were not nearly the right size. I taped up the hood and drilled a rectangle and popped the passenger nozzle in, then noticed I... lost the other one. At first, they were aimed weird and shot straight over my car.
The hood trim was another bit of WTF. There are hole marks that I'd spent time cutting out from underneath, only to find that they don't line up with the holes in the trim. I applied a hefty amount of sealant to the trim and fit it on, then held it in place to dry.

06-23-2010, 09:21 PM
Turns out all those PA winters wreaked havoc on the chassis.
I have had to replace numerous bolts, the floorpan under the driver's seat, and various other things. The exhaust had rusted through, and the resonator imploded.

Right now, things are kind of in the air. I am searching for a new southern chassis to swap all of my parts to.