View Full Version : manual to power window swap

10-19-2009, 01:09 PM
ok so my 92 GT has manual windows and locks and i dont really like rolling the windows up and down, my parts car has power windows and locks i am just wondering how hard it would be to swap the manual windows and locks to the power ones.

any help at all would be nice!

10-19-2009, 02:16 PM
when i stripped my parts car i took the entire harness out of the doors. That was a pain in the ass. I could only imagine swapping over all the power stuff. I would first check and see if there is plugs in your harness for power windows and locks. I would assume there is. If there is i would just swap doors but then again there prolly diff colors haha.

10-19-2009, 02:21 PM
There was a member that did this in his ST a few years ago. DanST or something was his name.

You need to swap everything in the doors, from the harness to the motors to the mounts, panels switches and so on.

There is also a brain box for the locks. Again, you need to take that and the harness as well.

Good luck if you attempt this. Few have.

I have swapped several doors from power to manual, never the other way around, and let me tell you, it isn't any fun.

10-19-2009, 03:15 PM
i have no clue what i was getting myself in to this is a project i have benn thinking about doing for a while, if i do decide to tackle it i will take plent of pictures and do a write up the best i can on the swap so others will have something to look at if they ever want to make the swap.

i am still one for suggestions on ways to do it if someone else has

Disco Dan
10-19-2009, 06:01 PM
Are you kidding me???

This is a piece of cake! It's one of the first things I did on my car. Imagine, if you will, a convertible. Two buttons lower the small, rear quarter windows as if by magic. Another button, and the roof folds into the trunk. Then, you reach over the passenger seat, and crank the window down, followed by the one next to you. Takes the glamor out of it.

Seriously. Do this.

start here:


Scroll to the bottom of the left-hand menu and select "front door" and then "disassembly of door". Also look at the section marked "components" as this will give you a good idea of how it's all held together. Granted, this diagram actually makes a lot more sense once you've done this once because you'll be like "Oh, yeah. Ok, I see how that worked now."

I started writing the following, but then I remembered that most of this is in the manual, so I posted the link above. However, there are steps not in that manual for your operation.

Keep in mind, for the following, I don't have pictures to reference, and I don't have the car in front of me, so if some of it is slightly off, I apologize. This is pretty much off the top of my head.

Your door is a piece of cake to take apart. You'll need a phillips screwdriver and a small pry bar (though a flat-head should do the trick too). I can have a door panel off of in under 5 minutes. Most of the screws are kind of hidden, or under plastic covers. I'm trying to remember where the screws are in the ST doors. There are two at the back of the door where it meets the door jamb, under plastic covers. There's one at the top of the pocket that runs along the bottom of the door. There's one in the hole on the bottom of the armrest. There's one behind the interior door handle. There may or may not be one or two at the front of the door near where it hits the dash. Once you get the one out from behind the door handle, the whole handle assembly pops out, and there are one or two bigger screws behind that. And the last one I can think of is behind the red door-open lens. You pop the lens out in the direction of the back of the car, then disconnect the connector. Unless the ST doesn't have a light there. In which case, there's nothing to disconnect. Also, pop off the interior mirror cover.

OH! haha

Almost forgot. The window crank. There's a small metal clip that holds the crank on. I use a small screwdriver and push the arms of the clip out of place so the crank will just slide off. If you're having trouble seeing the metal clip, pull the crank away from the door, not hard enough to break it off, but enough so that you can see the clip I'm talking about. Anyway, once that's off, the panel can come off.


Now you should be looking at a large piece of semi-transparent plastic. This is your rain guard so that the water doesn't get into your cardboard door panel and rot it out.

MY recommendation would be to remove the rain guard entirely. To do this, DO NOT pull on it, unless you have the patience and attention to detail to do it perfectly. I would get a box cutter and cut the adhesive that holds the rain guard on. This serves two purposes. It will leave the adhesive in good shape to be reattached. Some other car manufacturers use adhesive that can't be reused. Ours can be put back on. I've taken the rain guard out of my door probably no less than 40 times (no exaggeration) and it always sticks again. The second purpose it serves is that by cutting the adhesive, you leave some adhesive on the door, to serve as a reference for where to reattach it.

Check for any plastic clips that may also be holding the rain guard on. You'll really want to get a nice little pry bar for this.

Also, once you've gotten this far, repeat the same steps on your parts car, so you can see the differences inside, so you know what to make it look like when you're done. Take a picture if you don't have a great memory.

OK. So once you've got the plastic guard off, you're looking at a metal membrane with a bunch of bolt heads sticking out. This is the great fun part.

Almost everything will need to come off/out.

I think it's mostly 10mm bolts, but there may be one or two 12mm as well. This is where I did a lot of experimentation.

I think you want to get the molding off of the top of the door first. This is held in by clips. There's one clip you can remove at the front of the molding, but other than that, you're going to have to mess with it by wiggling it, etc.

There should be a couple of, what I call, window spacers near the top of the door as well. These are held in with one bolt each, and have a felt flat piece on the inside that keeps the window flush against the door's molding. I am fairly certain those need to come out as well.

The nice thing about you having two cars to work with, is if you screw up one, you can get the part off of the other! Wish I had had that.

Note, in the manual, it mentions removing the mirror mounting bracket. It has three bolts (12mm? 10mm?) near the front of the door. I can't recall if that's necessary to remove in order to take out the glass. It's not a hard extra step, so I would recommend doing it just in case.

Now for the window.

Get a pair of pliers and roll the window up or down until you can see the two bolts that hold the window to the regulator (the criss-cross metal thing that pushes the glass up and down). Those two bolts are inside the door, but when the window is at the right point (I forget if it's up or down, but I think it's down), you can reach a 10mm socket in there and undo them. Now pull the window up out of your door. The same way it would come up if you were rolling it up, except it should come all the way out.

Ok, now for the regulator. There should be four 10mm bolts holding this in. Since you have the glass off, it's no big deal if this drops into the door. You're just going to pull it out through one of the larger access holes. And since you're replacing it with a power regulator, you don't need to worry about memorizing where the bolts went. The power ones go in different positions. Again, use your second car for reference. This is a great advantage in this operation.

You'll need to do a couple of things. Notice that the exterior and interior door handles have these thin metal rods running from them to the lock. You'll need to disconnect all of these. You'll see various, colored, plastic clips holding the handles to the metal rods. They just rotate off of the rods. Clever, really. Disconnect as many of these as you can see. I believe there are two per handle (interior and exterior).

If you can't remove them as described above, you'll have to do another step, which, looking back, I believe is what I had to do. Locate the exterior door handle through the door frame. There are two 10mm bolts holding it to the door on the inside of the door. I believe there are two, conveniently-placed access holes for these bolts. Remove the bolts and the handle will now pull out of the exterior of the door. HOWEVER. It is attached to those metal rods I mentioned, so you'll want to jimmy the exterior handle out of the door just enough to pop those little plastic clips off of the metal rods, and then it should come free. I believe the interior handle is considerably easier to remove.

Ok, now let's remove the manual lock. This has three phillips screws on the back side of the door (when I say the "back" of the door, I'm referring to the part of the outside of the door that lies flush with the body of the car when the door is shut. And, surprise, it's the back-most part of the door). Since you disconnected the metal rods, the lock should just kind of fall loose once you've removed the screws.

Unless someone remembers otherwise, I believe you've taken everything you need out of the door frame.

Check along the bottom of the interior door for any wires. I don't know if the ST had wires going to the door. I know that my door had wires for the door-open light and the mirrors. It was a weird, stock, Toyota harness with only connectors for the light and mirrors. Very strange. anyway, if you have any wires in your door, and they're attached to the frame with clips, remove the clips and here's where small hands are going to pay off.

First, remove the plastic runner that says CELICA on it. This is the thing you would theoretically wipe your feet on when you get in the car. It should just pop out, unless there's a plastic nut holding it on under the dash, but I don't believe that's the case on the driver's side. Then again, I may have never replaced mine, so I've just forgotten that it ever existed.

Next, remove the vertical piece of plastic trim between the dash and the door. It just pops off. It's the piece that's about 12" high and 1/2" wide.

Notice where the wires go from the door to the chassis. There's a black, accordion-like hose that carries the wires.

OK, back inside the car. Remove the plastic lower dash part under the steering wheel (a few phillips head screws). Also, be aware that your hood-release is attached to this and has two screws just under the hood-release handle to pull it out. The actual metal cable that comprises of your hood release needs to be twisted and slid out. Get under it and look at it to see what I mean.

Next, you'll want to remove the black, metal knee guard behind that as well. Disconnect the 4" speaker first, then the 3 or 4 10mm bolts. The reason I'm having you remove these parts is that it'll make getting to the next part a lot easier.

You should have a dead pedal to the left of your other pedals. This holds the carpet down as well. Look for a circular tab in the middle of the dead pedal, pop it out, and remove the bolt under that. Pull the carpet up enough so that you can get to what you need to.

To the left, directly inside the body of the car, where that black accordion hose came into the body, is a junction box. Yours may be in a sort of plastic shell. For whatever reason, the convertible doesn't include this, but I found it on other cars from which I pulled parts.

If you can remove the connector(s) that come from the door without removing the junction box itself, then do so. If not, I believe there's one bolt that holds the junction box in, and then it sort of slides out. I can't recall if there are one or two connectors that come out of that accordion hose, but I believe it's two. Either way, this is the bloody knuckles part. Get those connectors disconnected, and then you're going to have to sort of discover as you go along how they come back out of the door. I wish I could offer you more information on this part, but I can't remember myself, and I don't have my car nearby.

If I recall correctly, it was easiest to pull the door connectors out of the hole in the door (the one that goes to the car), and pull the car wires out of the hole in the car, and just pull the whole thing out from between the car and door. Or maybe I pulled it all into the door and pulled it out through the door shell, I can't recall. Whichever way I did it, I did it that way because it was the way I got it to work, not because a manual said so. If you notice, in the manual I linked to earlier, there's nothing about removing that harness.


If you got the harness out, you're half done!


Ok, first you need to repeat everything you just did on your parts car. I would recommend taking pictures as you go along for your own personal reference. So you don't end up with a bunch of parts and no idea where they go.

NOTE: Fortunately, you have two cars. And that means 4 doors. So you can remove the door panel on the passenger side of the parts car, then remove all of the parts on the driver's side. Then while you install the parts on your GT's driver's side door, you can reference the now-opened passenger side door from the parts car.

From your parts car, you'll need to remove the regulator (motor is attached to this, I believe), the lock, the wire harness, the door panel (your crank is no good anymore), the red lens (I believe they're different), and... I think that's it. If you want a tweeter where the mirror cover is, and your parts car has it, grab that too. It's a couple of 8mm bolts.

--Intermission if you need it--

First, get that wiring harness in. This probably took me more time than anything else. It's going to have a bunch of extra connectors that your old one didn't have. Just let them hang out one of the lower access holes for now.

Wiring harness in, put in your lock, and exterior door handle, attaching the colored clips to the metal rods. Attach the clips to the interior handle.

Now the regulator. Remember, the bolts go in a different place for the power regulator, as compared to the manual one.

Now, here's a potential problem. In order to put the glass back in and attach it to the new regulator, you'll need to lower the new regulator. But since you can't do that manually, you'll want to use the switch from the new door panel. Connect it to the harness just enough to allow you to lower the regulator. Once you can see the mount points for the glass, disconnect the panel and install your glass the same way you took it out.

Note: The glass slides into two tracks (one in the front, one in the rear). Just make sure you get it in these tracks while you're pushing it down. Once you've attached it to the regulator, you can't get it back into those tracks if they're not already in them.

Install the window spacers from the top of the door, and the mirror bracket.

** If you're doing the system10 stereo set up, you'll want to attach your new 8" woofer with its connector, and attach the black box with the 4 10mm bolts. At this point you can also put in the black panel covers. If you're not doing the System10 setup, then this probably won't make any sense to you. Move along. These aren't the doors you're looking for.

Reattach the plastic rain guard, making sure you line up the adhesive correctly. I believe there's a hole in the bottom of the rain guard that allows the wire harness to leave the inside of the door, and travel up the outside of the rainguard. It should clip into a couple of spots on the door lining up for the power window/lock switches and the mirror and tweeter connectors.

Now you just need to put the door panel back on, making sure you attach your new connections before doing so. Remember to put the panel on by starting above the door, lowering it into place and then it should basically slide into alignment. You may have to mess with it a few times, but it'll go on correctly.

Put your screws back in, and voila! You're almost done with one door!

If you do this on both doors, you'll have power windows but no power locks. The locks need the blue lock relay that sits above your airbag computer.

Go to your parts car.

Remove your center console, remove the radio trim... I forget what else. The airbag computer looks remarkably like the ECU, but it's not. It sits below the cigarette lighter, which sits below the cup holder, which sits below the radio. I forget how many of those need to be removed to get to it, but I believe the grey trim that surrounds the radio/cupholder/cig lighter needs to come off. There are screws along the side near where your right foot (and the passenger's left foot) would be, and the black radio bezel and center console need to be out first.

My lock relay was light blue, but yours may be a different color. It sits directly above the airbag computer. If you didn't already disconnect the battery, do so now. You don't want to set off the airbags accidentally. Granted, that last sentence is more relevant for your driven car than your parts car.

It's probably one or two 10mm bolts holding the lock relay in. Get it out. Repeat the process on your daily driver, install the lock relay, and attach the connector. Awesome how the connector was already there, as if they thought "hmm, someone may want to add power locks to this later".

Put it all back together and you're done. Your power windows and locks should be awesome!

I'm sure I left out a few details but a lot of this will make sense when you're actually doing it and no amount of instruction can take the place of hands-on experience.

This is a rewarding operation and while it is time-consuming, it is not what I would consider difficult.

Now, if you want to convert from manual A/C to auto A/C, that's a difficult operation, but I'm not even going to start on that one.

Let me know if you have any questions, and I'll try my best to answer them.

And good luck!

10-19-2009, 06:12 PM
thanks Disco Dan!

i couldnt have asked for a better walk through for this project! i odnt have to worry about any air bags my 5th gen doesnt have them but i will be doing this as soon as can find the time!

will let you know how it goes and if i need any more help!!

thanks again