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View Full Version : Making a power steering rack manual



rizin
06-19-2009, 07:56 AM
Well when everyone talks about making a power steering rack manual they talk about looping the two lines or give a link for other racks. Well I gutted my rack and this is what it took.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0326.jpg
My rack out of my 92' gt passenger seal was leaking.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0329.jpg
Here is the first part I took off. Rack guide spring cap. lossen the lock ring and unscrew the cap. I used a large nut and welded it to a peice of pipe. Wasen't very tight so I probable did not need the tool I made.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0328.jpg
Next I removed the bearing guide nut same proccess as above.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0330.jpg
Then I removed the control valve housing by removing the two bolts.


http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0331.jpg
This is the the control valve removed. Just pulls out. Lower bearing, spring, control valve housing.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0332.jpg
Here is a picture through the rack with it all removed.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0333.jpg
Sorry didn't get a pic of the cylinder stop and lock ring before I removed them. The snap ring comes out with a pair of needle nose pliers. The cylinder stop, seal, and spacer I removed by pulling the rack against them like a hammer. Will not use the seal or spacer. The rack ends are the stoppers for the rack.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0334.jpg
A closeup of the rack I removed the seals off of it.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0336.jpg
Here is what I will call the piston. I put slots in it with a grinder. After I got it back together I realized there is no need for it to be left on the rack. At this point I reinstalled the rack with out the spacer and seal. There is a spacer and seal inside the tube. Will need it. Installed the end stop and lock ring.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0337.jpg
Now to the valve body I removed the lock ring near the pinon gear. Then the outer part slides off.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt108/rizin22/105_0338.jpg
The inner part of the valve body is removed by taking off the snap ring closest to pinion gear once again. Then sliding the collor off and letting the two ball bearings fall out. Then it slides off. Now the valve is done. I removed one more seal it is in the picture above when I removed the valve body and you could look through the rack where it was.

I installed the pinion gear, lower bearing. Used a moderate amount of grease. I packed all the bearings there is three one on the shaft, lower bearing, and one int the top of the control valve housing. Then bolted the housing on. My manual says to torque the bearing guide nut to 11 ft. lbs.Then lossen till it takes 3.9-5.6 inch lbs. to turn the shaft or something like that. I tightened it untill it was not fighting the bearings to turn the pinion gear shaft.

Next was installing the rack guide, spring and rack guide spring nut. Doing this I tightend it untill the rack wouldn't move. Then I backed it off till I got the rack to twist a little with channel locks. this guide keeps the rack and pinion gear tight against each other But causes drag on the steering rack. Then I tightend the lock ring on the nut. Last I greased the teeth on the rack.

Will not get to try the rack out for a while still have to build my engine and install it. With out the engine in it not that bad turning it in place but easier then with all the fluid in it fighting the control valve body.