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Ghosty
05-10-2009, 01:44 AM
Yeah brah so I got all the parts for my mad 4-7AGZTE build and I'm wicked stoked about it. I ripped out an SC from a Shelby Cobra and a turbo from a Mack Truck. I'm gonna stroke the 4AFE to 2.5 liters and put in 20V pistons in my 4AFE and boost it to 40PSI and then hit it with the NOS. In the 4AFE. But it's ok, because I have titanium head studs. And a wicked awesome head gasket. Oh and it will have rotary power, too. Oh and the pacesetter exhaust, too, can't forget that. In the 4AFE. Like BWWWWAAAAHHHHHH.


Just kidding. I'm just changing the oil.

I've been using 10W30 Valvoline synthetic blend for at least a year now. I switched to the synthetic blend because I wanted the benefits of a synthetic but was worried about the age of the seals in the 150k-mile engine, so I went blended.

Now I'm changing to full-on Mobil 1 synthetic. Total it was about $10 more expensive than the synthetic blend (for the gallon). But my car isn't getting any younger, I thought why the hell not. Really want to baby it now, make it last as long as possible. If it does start to leak, I'll just put more damn oil in the thing, or go back to the blend.

Whats the forum's opinion about this oil? Any good experiences? Bad? Meh?

geebes
05-10-2009, 01:54 AM
I enjoy castrol 5w30 full synthetic...the synthetic blends concern me, they could be like a drop of synthetic and the rest could be regular, not worth the extra money.

Ryan
05-10-2009, 01:57 AM
I like to use synthetic in my cars.

I havent used mobile on personally, but I have used castrol syntec, royal purple, and quaker state Q horse power. All of them are good oils. Royal purple is the best in my opinion, but is a lot more expensive than the castrol or Q.

You can get a gallon of Q at wal mart for like $20, an about the same for castrol syntec.

Use a toyota filter, if at all possible.

Another good option is a filter carried at advance auto. Purolator Pure 1.

If you really want to go all out, get a k&n oil filter, but honeslty, the toyota filter is just as good.

Ghosty
05-10-2009, 02:00 AM
I enjoy castrol 5w30 full synthetic...the synthetic blends concern me, they could be like a drop of synthetic and the rest could be regular, not worth the extra money.

It is unsettling how little information manufacturers put on oil.

It sometimes amazes me, because as far as I know, all manufacturers include some kind of detergents in the oil. And I'm not a chemical engineer, but I worry going from one brand from another might cause a caustic chemical reaction that could eat up seals and do damage to main bearings. Who knows?

Did you notice any change in gas mileage by changing to full synthetic, if you haven't always used synthetic? When I changed to blended, I saw no increase in gas mileage. I wonder if making the change to full synthetic might have any MPG benefits.

Ghosty
05-10-2009, 02:03 AM
If you really want to go all out, get a k&n oil filter, but honeslty, the toyota filter is just as good.

I haven't always used a high-quality filter on the car. But now I'm swearing by K&N.

I'd get some Toyota filters, but I don't like the hassle of going through a local dealership to get something so readily available. And I don't really plan ahead that much to order them online.

It's usually just a matter of "hmm... better change oil." Then I just get the stuff wherever.

Ryan
05-10-2009, 02:06 AM
Yeah. Just do NOT use a fram filter.. they are made of fail and aids.

Most oil filters that are quality have a metal cap and a pressure relief valve. The fram filters have cardboard caps on top of the filter elements and no relief valve.

Ghosty
05-10-2009, 02:11 AM
Yeah. Just do NOT use a fram filter.. they are made of fail and aids.

Then, to save myself from looking like an idiot, I will not tell you what filter I used for most of the car's life... :ugh:

Ryan
05-10-2009, 02:46 AM
Well, I wont judge you. I just like to let people know. In one of my classes for auto tech. we cut different filters open to see what they were constructed like, and thats what we found. Also, napa filters arent too bad either.

Slider
05-10-2009, 04:17 AM
German Castrol 0w-30
Mobil 1 0w-40
Rotella T 5w-40
Mobil 1 0w-30

Mobil 1 makes excellent oils, can't go wrong with them. I would run any of those I listed, if you're going synthetic, I would not run 10w anything, why go with something so thick on cold startup? You're just putting more wear on the engine by running thicker oil. Also run a quality filter. I run WIX, NAPA Gold, or Purolator PureOne. They're only like $5 too.

In short, I would recommend M1 0w-30, if you're going for longer change intervals or you do track days then go for M1 0w-40.

85gtsblackman
05-10-2009, 04:37 AM
castrol, i swear by it

ive herd mobile one tends to have burn off issues, and tents to leak past old seals more so than castrol or penzoil platinum

oh btw the puroilator pure one filter and napa gold filter is just as good if not better than oem

for beaters i just use regular puroilators

hemlocke
05-10-2009, 04:38 AM
Slider's advice on the heavier oil is top-notch. I run a K&N filter and Royal Purple 5W-30 on my 180,000 mile engine. It has some serious cam wear and I had some valvetrain chatter before I switched, which won't do because I am trying to nurse the 5SFE until I can get my 5SGE together. It seems to be holding up well.

85gtsblackman
05-10-2009, 04:41 AM
btw typically i run 10w40 for anything over 100- 150k, over 200k i run 20w50

i dont waste money on synthetic if the engine is n/a, just use thick oil, my camry is still going last i saw it at over 300,000 miles, it ran 20w50 castrol gtx most of its life and crappy oil filters


ive never had a problem with thick oil, thin oil, well, rod knock on old engines come to mind

Trance4c
05-10-2009, 04:51 AM
Castrol GTX 10w-30 Dino oil FTW



I've even been a religious Mobil 1 user, resulted in rod knock. Ever since, I just stick with the Castrol. No issues.

METDeath
05-10-2009, 05:03 AM
Mobil1 started at 57k on the car... started with two quarts of dino and synthetic, now full 10w30 synthetic, filter change and top off every 3k (burns about a half quart in that time). Full fluid change at 12k, or before the dragon, which ever comes first.

Granted, when I swap, it'll be oil change every 3k, period. Break in will be on dino oil though, then 50/50 mix, then full synthetic. Same with transmission break in, start on dino, then swap to synthetic after break in.

hemlocke
05-10-2009, 05:10 AM
Yeah, I have always been told to do break-in on non-detergent, dino oil, if possible.

Kastigir
05-10-2009, 06:51 AM
In a PDF file that I can't get to at the moment, they tested a variety of oils. For the money, the Valvoline Durablend couldn't be beat. 1/2 the price of the pure synthetics, and only slightly more bearing wear.

bzdweezy
05-10-2009, 08:36 AM
In the past i've used Mobil 1 clean 5000 10w-40 with no problem.

I just started using pepboys proline oil 10w-40, 5 qts w/oil filter for $10.
Not a bad deal but... i'm not sure on the oil yet :wiggle: I'll let you guys know if my engine blows up

Ghosty
05-10-2009, 05:43 PM
Hmm... I wonder if I shouldn't exchange the 10W for a 0W...

Trance, rod knock? What engine and how many miles? What oil weight?

david in germany
05-10-2009, 06:00 PM
I swore by mobile 1 but after seeing a few reviews.. I now ONLY run Royal Purple. The 4afe never sounded as smooth as it does with Royal purple and ran cooler as well. Since the Celica has a new owner, the Mini only runs RP too.

Ghosty
05-10-2009, 06:07 PM
I was hoping you would write in, David - you've had your ST for a long while.

What weight do you prefer for the ST?

T-spoon
05-10-2009, 06:19 PM
German Castrol 0w-30
Mobil 1 0w-40
Rotella T 5w-40
Mobil 1 0w-30

Mobil 1 makes excellent oils, can't go wrong with them. I would run any of those I listed, if you're going synthetic, I would not run 10w anything, why go with something so thick on cold startup? You're just putting more wear on the engine by running thicker oil. Also run a quality filter. I run WIX, NAPA Gold, or Purolator PureOne. They're only like $5 too.

In short, I would recommend M1 0w-30, if you're going for longer change intervals or you do track days then go for M1 0w-40.

Depends on climate and season a bit, but either way, if you aren't starting the car and immediately hauling arse, it isn't going to matter /all/ that much what that first number is in terms of cold startup wear, but can definitely have an effect of how much you leak while the car is sitting (if you've got leaks)

Trance4c
05-10-2009, 06:28 PM
Trance, rod knock? What engine and how many miles? What oil weight?


It was 10w-30 Mobil 1. This was my original JDM long block for my swap back in the day. I religiously changed it and checked it. I drove the engine with the swap for about 3 years daily. Then, one day.. it just started knocking. It was the most expensive oil, I vowed never to get owned like that again. Now, Castrol 10w-30 Dino oil all day long.

Its just my experience, I'm not saying it was result of the oil or that others would have a result similar. This is just my user experience and I've learned its not always the most expensive oil; typically if you change regularly as you should it won't matter what oil. Keep in mind also, this is no oil leaks on my first engine nor the current (2nd engine). I just won't be suckered to spend on Mobil 1, my opinion only.

david in germany
05-10-2009, 06:58 PM
I was hoping you would write in, David - you've had your ST for a long while.

What weight do you prefer for the ST?

I always ran the recommended 10-w30 I did, however, run 10-w40 once when I grabbed the wrong bottles but after, I switched back to 10-W30.
By the way, I sold the car last Thursday :(

VikingJZ
05-10-2009, 07:17 PM
I run 10W-30 Castrol Syntec.

VikingJZ
05-10-2009, 07:20 PM
I like to use synthetic in my cars.

I havent used mobile on personally, but I have used castrol syntec, royal purple, and quaker state Q horse power. All of them are good oils. Royal purple is the best in my opinion, but is a lot more expensive than the castrol or Q.

You can get a gallon of Q at wal mart for like $20, an about the same for castrol syntec.

Use a toyota filter, if at all possible.

Another good option is a filter carried at advance auto. Purolator Pure 1.

If you really want to go all out, get a k&n oil filter, but honeslty, the toyota filter is just as good.


Toyota Filter FTW.


The first oil change I did on the SC was with a K&N, but every time after that was done with an OEM.

When I pick up the first gen, I'll get a Toyota Filter. Joey said they still make it.

vip09
05-11-2009, 04:40 AM
I run Royal Purple 5w-30 in the 5S-GTE and the 2ZZ-GE. OEM Toyota Filters.

geebes
05-11-2009, 06:36 AM
Then, to save myself from looking like an idiot, I will not tell you what filter I used for most of the car's life... :ugh:

Same with me dude. Fram has never failed me, but I should use the Toyota filters apparently, I have heard that multiple times on ctech.

ciento44
05-11-2009, 02:39 PM
5w-30 Castrol GTX here....

tuner4life
05-11-2009, 03:01 PM
Cen-Pe-Co 10w30 oil, and either k&n or oem toyota filter.

donteatbugs
05-11-2009, 07:34 PM
i run castrol gtx on breakin for 500 miles then i switch to rp. 5w-30 for the 2zz, 10w-30 for the 3sgte. toyota oem filters everytime, i change the oil at 2500 miles because i can.