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Kool-aid_Man
05-04-2009, 04:13 AM
So recently I put Sheila into a ditch; really need to find some place to practice drifting/slides so I can respond properly which I think I did, just not before she caught the dirt. Anywayz (groan) besides the $1,800ish in body damage (was actually really minor, people buy and drive w/ worse) I blew both of the rear brake lines which were stock (I believe) at 198K miles and horribly corroded (teach me to check em).

So I decided to replace all the brake lines in Sheila w/ Earl's SS line (speed flex I think). Yet once under the hood looking at how Toyota routed the brake lines I've decided that they're production-line-thinking-idiots and I'm going to replace all the lines from the MC back. Should be fun. ;) And since I'm going to be doing all of this, it seems to be time to do that rear brake drum to disc conversion I've been wanting to do.

Now you may be asking yourself what's the point of this post? Just to post. Also the only conversion info I seem to be able to find on this forum and through links I've found about is for 5th gen Celicas, mine's a 6th gen. What I need to know is; does everything stays basically the same for the conversion? I have a Hayne's manual that I can look at for pics, and I'll probably pick up a Chilton's before I do it since the Hayne's has been wrong a couple of times (in specific the brake line routing diagram has it's right/left hand confused, left is driver side...), and I know Chilton's to be the shi..stuff. Also any tips/tricks ect. that you think may be helpful to me would be appreciated. Also some luck. :) Now to get ready for work and not be late (can't drive her fast after all).

Kool-aid_Man
05-04-2009, 11:43 PM
Update (from my cell): Im looking at buying a 6th gen. celica gt that was t-boned by a plow. Engine is suposed to run :) and the parts im after should be fine, mainly body damage. Now i need to figure out how to get it down from NW Indiana to my parents house. I can use my dads duley, will have to find a trailer and drag it up onto the trailer as the GT doesnt roll... tips and tricks for this entire process would be appreciated. Also its likely that there are going to be parts available to those who want them. Stay tuned to this thread and the sales fourum for updates. Might pick it up this weekend... Luck!?

METDeath
05-04-2009, 11:48 PM
The brake conversion is the same for both generations, if I recall correctly. The EASY way is to grab the entire spindle off the donor car and just replace the one on your car. The hard way is take everything from the hub forward and then install on your car (I'd recommend this if you want to replace the parking shoes, and then only if you plan to keep the car for a decade)

As for towing... get a trailer that has a winch to drag the car up onto the trailer.

What are your plans for the GT get the brakes off it and maybe some usable body panels, then part the rest out?

Kool-aid_Man
05-05-2009, 06:05 AM
Thanks for that info. Seriously. I have access to a manual lever type winch, and a chain operated one (for HEAVY lifting), and some hefty ratchet straps. So I th ink I can make something work.

Why should I go the hub forward route if Im planning on keeping the car for a long time? Which I am, would like her to see a million miles. :D Is it just because Id replace more parts?

As to my plans for the GT Ill only have 2 months that I can store it at my parents house. So I plan on tareing it down into pieces and putting them into bins and a storage unit. The rear brakes, hub forward?, and probably the engine & trans. are what Ill be useing, though if someone makes me a good enough offer... Dunno, I REALLY want a 3S-GTE but getting the deal Ill be getting, and an extra .2 L (though that means higher gas consumption, main reason why I want the 3S-GTE) to add to that... Basically everything is going to be up for sale (bid style?) except the rear brake assembly, and no guarantees that Ill sell the engine, trans, turbo, intercooler, yet feel free to make an offer.

/_IF_/ I buy the whole car... Its a good thing my thumb is used to this stupidity. LOL carple-thumble...

METDeath
05-05-2009, 01:22 PM
Why should I go the hub forward route if Im planning on keeping the car for a long time? Which I am, would like her to see a million miles. :D Is it just because Id replace more parts?

Yes, exactly that reason.


probably the engine & trans. are what Ill be useing, though if someone makes me a good enough offer... Dunno, I REALLY want a 3S-GTE but getting the deal Ill be getting, and an extra .2 L (though that means higher gas consumption, main reason why I want the 3S-GTE) to add to that... Basically everything is going to be up for sale (bid style?) except the rear brake assembly, and no guarantees that Ill sell the engine, trans, turbo, intercooler, yet feel free to make an offer.

You do know that you'll have to change the motor mounts to swap in the 5S/trans? Which most people really do not deem worth it for a mere 20HP or so. Have you considered a 4A-GE 20V swap? Or perhaps just turbo charging your 7A? I hear that a lot of 6th gen guys have great success with boosting the 7A.

Kool-aid_Man
05-24-2009, 09:38 PM
So my father and I went up there yesterday (5 hour drive there for me) to look at the car... The guy knew that if I didn't want to buy the car I'd be taking off the rear brake assembly. We get there and decide that the transmission is probably broken (and it's an automatic :puke: ), and the turbo had been removed so that a (turbo-less) header could be put on. Don't want the car. Yet here is the icing on this "brown"-cake: we go to remove the wheels so that we can get the brake assembly (which had ABS stuff on it which I don't need, but eh...) off and he has those special lug nuts that you need a special tool to remove, and he doesn't have the key... [expletive deleted] [expletive deleted] [expletive deleted]. He said that if he finds the key he'll remove what I want and I said that I'd pay for the shipping (maybe, I'm not too happy with him right now). Woot! 10 hours on the road for a couple bottles of tea from gas stations and some McyD's.


You do know that you'll have to change the motor mounts to swap in the 5S/trans? Which most people really do not deem worth it for a mere 20HP or so. Have you considered a 4A-GE 20V swap? Or perhaps just turbo charging your 7A? I hear that a lot of 6th gen guys have great success with boosting the 7A.

Yes I was aware of the mount point issue (7A/5S).

After your post I did a little reading (on wiki) about the 4A, sounds like it could be a good way to go and when I'm really ready to go on the engine swap I'll decide between it and the 3S, thanks for that, (as an aside) any other engines you would recommend?

Turbo my 7A? Not likely, unless I go and buy another form of transportation first (crotch rocket). The 7A needs totally rebuilt before I do that, and I don't actually know how to do that (other than disassemble & clean, replace what needs it, machine what needs it, lube & reassemble). That's why I want to do a swap, I can go and get an engine, learn how to rebuild it by studying and doing so (yes I can, it's just a matter of time, like months...) and then do a swap. Sheila gets a "new" engine, better performance, and all with less down time. Possibly if I can do a swap fast enough I can just borrow my mom's CRV which she barely uses. Oh, and a rebuilt transmission. Or at the least a new clutch plate, and pressure plate.

...That dude was an idiot. However. The car is $500, was hit by a plow on the Left Front which has mashed in and some up that wheel. There are some decals on it implying that there was some (or more) work put into it (I didn't look hard). If your after parts you don't think will have been messed up maybe look into it. He lives in Bristol, IN (dead center, right on the northern border, near Elkhart). The price for me hooking you up with his stupid but is I get the rear brake assembly, yes I'll pay for the part, and shipping. Price for the part to be determined before I give you the contact info. Oh, I don't want the rotors (or pads).

murphs76
06-15-2009, 08:31 PM
Since this is the only discussion I can find on gen 6 brakes can I ask you guys how to get the rear brake drums off? I know to use the 2 bolt method to get them off but there is a silver ring covering the 2 bolt holes. I can't get the silver ring off. Can someone tell me how?

Having the worst time finding any DIY on Gen 6 Celica and the haynes manual I bought blows cause it mainly only shows how to work on 86-93 Celica's !$!$%#@

Thanks

murphs76
06-16-2009, 03:22 AM
Since this is the only discussion I can find on gen 6 brakes can I ask you guys how to get the rear brake drums off? I know to use the 2 bolt method to get them off but there is a silver ring covering the 2 bolt holes. I can't get the silver ring off. Can someone tell me how?

Having the worst time finding any DIY on Gen 6 Celica and the haynes manual I bought blows cause it mainly only shows how to work on 86-93 Celica's !$!$%#@

Thanks

Nevermind. It was part of the aftermarket American Racing wheels. I guess they are there as an adapter to make the wheels fit.

Galcobar
06-16-2009, 04:58 AM
Hub adapters -- Toyota wheels are hub-centric, meaning they are aligned using the hub. Aftermarket wheels have to use adapters to properly centre the wheel.