View Full Version : Cleaning an engine

02-08-2009, 11:33 PM
So, I am wanting to clean up the engine on my 6th gen.

When I say clean, I mean inside and out.

I noticed that there is some carbon built up inside of the intake manifold and I am not real surprised, especially since it has 190k miles on it.

Also, it has a leaky valve cover gasket(I have one on the way for it), and so there is some oil needing cleaned up.

What do you guys recommend for cleaning the valve cover, etc. on the engine?

Also, what do you recommend for cleaning out the inside of the engine, for carbon etc.?

02-08-2009, 11:48 PM
I always use a spray on foam degreaser to clean the engine. then follow that up with a hose or else another spray degreaser with a strong flow

02-09-2009, 12:08 AM
I tend to shy away from abrasive chemicals to clean my engine bay. I like to use my pressure washer w/ the wide angle nozzle and get into the nooks and crannies with it. Sometimes I've been known to use a degreaser, but I don't like how it treats the paint. I prefer clear coat safe wheel cleaner (every once in a while). Let it air dry and then get an aerosol tire gloss spray and spray it on ALL of the plastics/hoses and it'll look good as new! My engine bay doesn't look like it has 110k miles on it and this is what I've done for the past 8 years.

As for the inside, as long as you're using "brand name" fuels you shouldn't have much carbon build up. I'd clean the MAF with MAF cleaner, and maybe run a bottle of some fuel injector cleaner mixed with a full tank of fuel.

Those are my suggestions...

02-09-2009, 12:23 AM
I know the topic of seafoam has been discussed before, but lets bring it up again.

What do you guys think of seafoam, b12 chemtool, etc.

Also, what about the stuff you add to the oil, run it for a few minutes, and drain/change the oil?

02-09-2009, 12:56 AM
I highly doubt your engine is that dirty... If you're worried about oil, I would simply switch over to full synthetic.

Seafoam = FAIL in my books. Don't use it.

02-09-2009, 01:08 AM
Well, when I took the throttle body off to swap the TPS, it had quite a bit of carbon build up, and if there is carbon built up on the throttle body, I would hate to see what the intake manifold looks like.

I got the oil and filter to change it.

But before I do, I want to see what y'all recommend as far as cleaning stuff.

02-09-2009, 02:21 AM
Anybody else have any input?

02-09-2009, 03:22 AM
I'm used to really dirty engine bays.. so whenever its time for a wash I just soak it down with Purple Power and then pressure wash the crap out of it. Comes out looking squeaky clean!

02-09-2009, 03:40 AM
What about using seafoam or b12 chemtool, etc...?

02-09-2009, 04:14 AM
Well from what I know about the carbon build up in the intake is it either comes from the PCV or EGR valve. Sea Foam etc. effects everything after the injectors. My 5s had a bad oil build up in the head around the intake valves and I used cleaner once a month beacuse I knew I was burning oil. So I dont know how good cleaners are. 5s had 229k miles on it and egr port in intake was the size of a pin hole.

02-09-2009, 05:31 AM
Thanks man.

Who all uses seafoam or other products like it?

02-09-2009, 12:55 PM
Sorry I dont have any info on seafoam Ryan, but I am thinking about using in on the 5sfe. I am also intrested in whether anyone else on here has done it and if it helped a lot? screwed stuff up?

Theres got to be a few people on here that have done it

02-09-2009, 04:46 PM
Me too beaty...

Come on guys....lol

02-09-2009, 05:25 PM
One can of seafoam in the gas tank and one can through the vaccum line(brake booster line) and be done. Its great

02-09-2009, 09:23 PM
i use purp power for the outside and seafoam for the inside.

02-09-2009, 10:02 PM
Alright, thanks guys!!

02-10-2009, 01:42 AM
I have used seafoam before i sucked it up through an intake line, there was a hell of a lot of black smoke for 10-15 minutes. It didn't hurt anything I honestly don't know if it helped anything or not its hard to tell the car ran the same afterwards. I have heard that it will toast O2 sensors but mine was already acting funny so oh well

02-10-2009, 05:52 AM
Used Seafoam -- it definately had an effect, smoothing the engine slightly and dropping the idle revolutions by about 50 RPM. However, I also used it in the oil and what was a slow leak turned into a fast one, which makes sense. Carbon deposits are likely in areas with leaks (air = drying) and Seafoam eats the deposits, opening holes the deposits were plugging.

02-10-2009, 07:33 AM
ive used the other stuff that you put in your engine oil
run it for 5 mins then change the oil
basically its kerosene or diesel
but works great as far as deposits.

02-11-2009, 04:12 AM
Just remember guys those deposits of gunk inside our motors are some times holding it togather.......I don't recomend them unless you like buying oil

02-11-2009, 04:48 AM
I found seafoam to very ineffective when run through the gas tank. At least when done so in the quantity suggested. However for carbon build up in the intake manifolds, EGR etc I found it to be great. I pretty much sucked a whole can of Deep Creep (spray version of seafoam) through the brake booster line and the car definitely idled and ran better afterwards. This is with 149K on it. I was having bucking on acceleration before. Now I don't. Can't argue with that. And it is O2 safe too.

For the fuel system I used BG44K. It's much better than seafoam for the fuel system. One can did wonders for cleaning my injectors out. You can get it on ebay but not in stores as they only sell it to shops. I actually replaced the injector seals (full o-ring set) which helped a lot with idling. The old ones were rock hard like plastic.

As for cleaning the outside I could use some guidance on this myself. From what i understand you have to be really careful about not getting water into the distributor or alternator. And cpver all the fuse boxes and eletrical parts. I'd love to hear from others what their procedure has been to prevent any water damage. If you do get eletrical parts wet my suggestion is to remove them and let them dry out naturally. Don't fire the car up as the current will cause them to short out and ruin them. If they are allowed to dry before use they will be fine. Again clarification on this would be very useful.