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View Full Version : Engine Cranks, No Spark!!



airman0404
12-31-2008, 01:48 PM
This isn't for my celica, its my wife's friends celica. Its a 93' GT Convertible. She said she parked it in the garage and then came out later to leave and the car just cranks. So I came over, listened for the fuel pump but didn't hear it, but I pulled the plugs and could smell gas on the plugs and in the cylinder. I checked for spark, but had none. So I Ohmed the coil, but only had a shitty meter. No reading after the decimal. I got 14 ohms on the primary, OPEN on the secondary, and 12 Volts at the positive with ignition on. I'm guessing its the coil, but what to make sure that there isn't anything else that could be wrong. I read that it could be the Ignitor to, but I have no idea where it is or what it looks like. I'm pretty sure I checked all the fusible links too. If anybody has any input please help. She doesn't have much money, and really can't afford to buy and try parts. I know 92GT on here had some coils and ignitors for sale, so i PM'ed him. Oh yeah, the plugs, wires, dizzy cap, and rotor are all a couple months old. and all connections are good. Thanks in advance for help.

wizzards581
12-31-2008, 06:08 PM
possible cel codes? ignitor and coil ok? it should spark at tip of spark plug wire if everything is ok.

spray carb cleaner into intake manifold and start it. if it doesnt start or fire up, its gota be spark. if it fires up for couple seconds, fuel pump.

Luni
12-31-2008, 07:02 PM
Igniter and coil wont necessarily pull a CEL.

If theres no IGF signal from the igniter you MIGHT get a CEL. Only real way to test if the igniter is working is to get 12 volt resister type LED and connect it to positive and negative terminals of the coil (the little plug that connects to the coil, disconnect the coil, and connect the LED to it and have your wife try and crank the car - if the LED pulses, the igniter is firing. If it doesnt pulse, the igniter isnt firing)

airman0404
12-31-2008, 07:05 PM
I noted in the write-up that I had no spark, checked the coil (with crappy multimeter) had bad reading, but will check again with a good meter. Ignitor, I don't even know where it is and what to check on it. I just learned how to check codes, so I'll try that too. I do have power to the positive side of the coil. And Yes there is fuel getting to the cylinders

airman0404
12-31-2008, 07:07 PM
Luni, I can hook my Fluke meter in place of LED and see if volts pulses, correct??????

Luni
12-31-2008, 08:21 PM
You MIGHT be able to get pulse on the fluke. Depends on its sampling rate. The thing about an LED is it instantly lights and goes out. My digital multimeter doesnt sample fast enough to register injector and igniter pulse. Your Fluke might be better.

But if it doesnt, the LED you need is cheap.

airman0404
12-31-2008, 08:35 PM
Where can I pick one of these 12V Resistor LED's from??

Luni
12-31-2008, 08:50 PM
Radio shack.

Needs to be a Resistor Type LED. They have green, orange and red.

Lonestag
12-31-2008, 10:45 PM
Just a thought, but this happened to me and it turned out that both the fuel pump and ECU had shorted out.

Just a thought.

airman0404
12-31-2008, 11:55 PM
Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to look into more tomorrow. Its New Years Eve, so I'm going.

airman0404
01-01-2009, 09:55 PM
OK, here is what I got on my tests today.
Coil:
Primary - .8ohms (suppose to be .3-.6ohms)
Secondary- 3.26K ohms (suppose to be 9k-15k ohms)

Pick-ups:
G+ - G- 206ohms (suppose to be 185-265ohms)
NE+ - NE- 408ohms (suppose to be 370-530ohms)

I checked for CEL codes, and nothing.
I tried to listen for the fuel pump again and couldn't hear it(I listened for the pump in my car that currently runs and I can't hear it either.) So I check for power at the connector, have 12 volts, and Ohm'ed the pump out and got 20ohms.

I went to Radio Shack and no one knew what I was talking about with a 12v Resistor type LED. They had only two different 12v LEDs. So i made a guess and got one. I pulled the little connector off the dizzy and hooked up the LED and cranked the car over, the led stayed on the whole time. So I think I have the wrong LED.

I think I might just end up changing the coil, in hope of fixing it. But I really don't want to pull the dizzy if I don't have too.

If any one else can think of something, please help. This is a pain working on a car that isn't mine, and 30 mins aways from my house, and has no internet access. ug2

airman0404
01-02-2009, 03:10 PM
went to a different Radio Shack and talked to someone that knew what I was talking about. Got the right LED this time. Says right on the package "Built in Resistor". So I'll give that a try before getting the coil tonight.

I'll keep updating this thread as the saga unfolds. Maybe it will help someone else with the same problem later.

MrWOT
01-02-2009, 08:50 PM
Secondary- 3.26K ohms

Fail

Luni
01-02-2009, 09:21 PM
I dont trust their numbers on coil troubleshooting.

Ive had a coil that failed the ohm test work perfectly.

Ryan
01-02-2009, 11:26 PM
I had a similar problem with my car twice, and it ended up being the distributor assembly.

The ignitor is mounted on the drivers side, on the fire wall.

Do you only need one ignitor and one coil?

Ryan
01-02-2009, 11:28 PM
Also, If it is a 1990 celica, the coil I have will not work, because the 90 was a rev 1 engine, and it has an external coil, where as my engine is a rev 2 and has an internal coil. I am not sure about the igniter though....

Luni
01-02-2009, 11:48 PM
Igniters are different too IIRC.

airman0404
01-03-2009, 12:16 AM
Also, If it is a 1990 celica, the coil I have will not work, because the 90 was a rev 1 engine, and it has an external coil, where as my engine is a rev 2 and has an internal coil. I am not sure about the igniter though....
My celica is a 90' , the one I'm working on is my wifes friends. Her celica is a 93'. I ended up buying a coil from Toyota today for her, but if it is the ignitor, then I'll definately need to get one from you 92-gt. I'll let you know. The girl has been without her car for 2 weeks now, and just wants it fixed. So, I told her the only thing I have found that is bad is the coil, because of the readings, but Luni said it can still be good. I'm in the part swaping mood anymore. I still have to work on my car.

(This is a little off subject but) Speaking of me working on my own car. I'm going to be changing out my struts, springs, strut mounts, rear swaybar links, insulators, fuel filter, main fuel line. I know you have a "How To" on the fuel filter, but do you want a "How to" w/ pictures on the rest? So there is a Celica one in stead of a MR2. Let me know

85gtsblackman
01-03-2009, 05:22 AM
did the t belt snap?

my when my 93 camry dizzy went the car still ran but would fire all 4 cylinders randomly, normally id just hit on 3, it went around 170,000 miles fwiw

Ryan
01-03-2009, 05:58 AM
An easy way to check and see if the t-belt snapped or skipped teeth is take off the disty cap and see if the rotor turns when you crank it.

Also, on my car, I had no spark, but it would still crank. This happened to me 3 times now in total.

One time, it blew the ecu fuse.

The other two times, I had a bad distributor. Once I replaced it, it ran just fine.

Its just an idea.

Let me know about the igniter too.

airman0404
01-03-2009, 01:13 PM
The t-belt isn't snapped, the dizzy shaft still spins. It may have slipped teeth, causing no spark. She did say that she needs to get the t-belt done. She is taking it in after, if I get it running. The enigine sounds normal when turned over. But, I'll check and see is the cam/dizzy slot is straight up w/ the motor @ 0 degrees.

I'll check the ECU fuse too, but if that was blown, wouldn't more stuff be wrong? Well, I'm going to look at her car in a bit. I'll update the news.

airman0404
01-03-2009, 07:53 PM
Good News!!! The Celica is running again. I did the ignitor next with the LED and the Ignitor was firing. So I just went ahead and pulled the dizzy, and changed out the coil. The old coil ended being cracked on the bottom side where i couldn't see when it was installed on the car. I also changed the shaft O-Ring. The old one was like a piece of plastic, dried rubber. I put it all together, and the car a heck of as time starting, but I mashed the pedal to the floor and it ran normal after i let go. So it stayed running, let it warm up, and check the timing. Very thing is good. :bigthumbu

Just glad that its over now. She just has to make an appointment to get the timing belt, water pump, and seals changed.

Thanks for all of your guys help.

Ryan
01-03-2009, 11:16 PM
Goood job man. I am glad it was something that was easy to change!!!