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Ghosty
07-13-2008, 07:42 AM
My low beams decided to crap out on me. Damnit. I'll give you a rundown of when it happened...

1) Was at a drive-in movie theater for at least four hours, using the car battery to power the radio in the car for the movie.

2) When it came time to leave, I turned on the car. It took just a little longer than normal but started up fine. I suspected as much considering the battery is only a couple of weeks old.

3) Turned on the lights to drive out.

4) Quickly turned OFF the lights as not to piss off other customers.

5) Lights would not turn on afterward.

6) Pulled into a parking lot to inspect. Discovered that the HI beams would work just fine. Curiously, the HI beam indicator on the dash does NOT light up when on high-beam.

Now I've searched the boards to pinpoint what the trouble could be, and it might just have been a surge blasted the low beams to bits. Both of them at the same time. But I have yet to change out the low beams, seeing as it is 1:40AM and I can't go to the store for a spare at this hour.

When I get to it tomorrow, it might just be the low beam bulbs. But I'd like to know if you guys can think of any other problems, so I can try to cover my butt if it turns out NOT to be the low beam bulbs.

On a related note, have you ever heard anyone blowing out two low beams simultaneously?

T-spoon
07-13-2008, 08:04 AM
could be the dimmer switch in the column

ssantos6981
07-19-2008, 07:40 AM
I don't know anything about that dimmer switch, my dimmer switch (which is on the left side under my cluster) only controls interior lights. You have flip up lights? If you do, there is no seperate high/low beam bulb. It is just the headlight (Unless you have something different than mine). I'm not great at electrical but I know the basics.

If worse comes to worse, purchase one headlight, install it and see if the low beam works, if not you have a more serious problem which would require another post here or some patience for another more experienced individual to assist you.

Good luck!

celicaGT90_05
07-19-2008, 08:20 AM
well, Im not sure how the dimmer switch would effect it, unless they did some crazy wiring job, but the dimmer switch is completely unrelated. I think what you mean is the switch for brights/dims, but first of all, it is possible they both went out though at the same time would be rare. Still, dont hurt to test, but if you dont have any luck there check fuses.

T-spoon
07-19-2008, 10:39 PM
well, Im not sure how the dimmer switch would effect it, unless they did some crazy wiring job, but the dimmer switch is completely unrelated. I think what you mean is the switch for brights/dims, but first of all, it is possible they both went out though at the same time would be rare. Still, dont hurt to test, but if you dont have any luck there check fuses.

Sorry to confuse you guys. Toyota calls the switch in the steering column which the light control wands connect to the "dimmer" switch. The dial that controls the brightness of teh gauges isn't called a dimmer switch by Toyota, though I know people do use the term for that, so sorry for the confusion.

So of course I'm referring the switch that controls whether the highs are on or just the lows. Yes, it's very unlikely only the low beam portion of both sides burned out at the same time, which is why I suggest the switch.

celicaGT90_05
07-19-2008, 11:01 PM
gotcha, I thought you may have meant that but wanted to make sure everything was clear. Im not sure why that would be called the dimmer switch...

T-spoon
07-20-2008, 12:18 AM
gotcha, I thought you may have meant that but wanted to make sure everything was clear. Im not sure why that would be called the dimmer switch...

Couldn't tell ya. It could just be an oddity of translating Japanese to English, but there you have it. I think they call the switch for interior/gauge cluster like, "Switch/light control" or something.

Ghosty
07-20-2008, 12:38 AM
Correct- the device on the steering column is the dimmer switch. I assume they call it this because you have the option of turning from high to low. Or maybe they just didn't know what else to call it.

But problem solved! Turned out to be the suckers just burnt out at the same time. For reference, they were Sylvania Silverstars. I think that's what they're called. My dad thinks its because filaments don't like being turned on then off in quick succession. But I just think these were crappy bulbs... probably 2 years old at most.

However, they are pretty!

T-spoon
07-20-2008, 12:42 AM
Ohhhh, aftermarket... *nods knowingly* :hehe:

Galcobar
07-20-2008, 09:41 AM
Sylvania Silverstars are ultra-high efficiency bulbs, which means they are overdriven with extra-thin filaments.

They are rated for 150 hours of service, compared to 800 for standard halogens or 1000 for long-life bulbs. If they didn't have that blue tint on them, the bulbs would produce 50% more light than a standard. Instead they produce only 10% more, albeit with a 4000K colour rather than the standard 3200K.

Ghosty
07-24-2008, 12:45 AM
Sylvania Silverstars are ultra-high efficiency bulbs, which means they are overdriven with extra-thin filaments.

They are rated for 150 hours of service, compared to 800 for standard halogens or 1000 for long-life bulbs. If they didn't have that blue tint on them, the bulbs would produce 50% more light than a standard. Instead they produce only 10% more, albeit with a 4000K colour rather than the standard 3200K.

I wish I knew that before I paid twice as much for a bulb that has only about 1/5 the life expectancy. Even for the cool blue tint, it's not worth it.

Would anyone recommend me some bulbs? I'm willing to pay more than the base cost for some that have a nice tint to them, but a longer life expectancy is a must.

aballz
07-24-2008, 07:30 AM
I suggest these.

http://stores.ebay.com/Autopal-Lights

Galcobar
07-24-2008, 11:09 AM
Tint = less light.

Simple, unavoidable physics: a bulb with a tint to it will not produce the same amount of illumination as a clear bulb. And no, the blue tint does not make for better illumination.

Sylvania Silverstars are effectively equivalent to standard halogens for how well they light the road. If you want a blue tint and lights as good as stock, you have to sacrifice life -- unless you're willing to go the route of fabricating and installing a proper HID module into H4 housings (or paying a lot to buy one pre-fabricated).

I have to admit, looking at those prices makes me wonder. $5.99 for two H4 bulbs, even ones with the horrid blue tint? Knockoffs of Philips bulbs cost three times that, never mind the genuine article. While a certain amount of brand price inflation is expected, that seems a little excessive to expect similar quality.

Frankly, I'd go for the Philips Premium or Osram Super, they are high efficiency bulbs producing 30 per cent more light than standard but have the same or better life expectancy. You can see a version of them in the Sylvania XL sealed beams. Add a set of good ECE housings, such as the Hella (rallylights.com) or Cibie (danielsternlighting.com -- expensive but the best quality and pattern) and you'll have an excellent lighting system.

dups90gt
07-30-2008, 04:17 PM
looks like you got it solved.. cool anyone buy ebay H4 housings and use it with HIDs?