View Full Version : has any one tryed these mods???? for there 5th gen

05-06-2008, 09:38 PM
i found them on the sit that i found this forum from just wanted to know if any one did this??

5th Generation Shifter Modification
by CelicaGTR

Below are the instructions for using the stock shifter from a 7th generation Celica (2000-) in a 5th generation Celica. This will give a quicker smoother throw for a fraction of the price of buying or importing a shortshifter from Japan. These shifters can be found quite cheaply from 7th generation owners who have installed a TRD shortshifter in their car.

Preparation of the 7th Generation Shifter assembly

1. When you get the 7th Generation Celica shifter it is encased in a large plastic housing. On the top of this housing is a small door/hinged cover type thing(for lack of a better term).
2. Cut the cover in half with Dremel or another type tool. After the cover is cut the two sides will swing up.
On the side of the plastic housing there are hinges and springs, and part of the shifter itself runs through a lever, it is held in place by a pressed on plastic cap.
3. Pop off the cap...DON'T LOSE IT!!! YOU REUSE IT!!!
----To do this just put sideways tension on the shifter.
4. Rotate the levers upwards until the shifter is clear, and put it aside.

On your 5th Generation Celica

1. Remove the shift-knob, shifter cover, shift-boot, and foamy thing(if you have one).
2. See the little metal cover with three 10mm bolts?? take it off...DON'T LOSE IT!!!
3. Next there is one of two shift rods. This is on the drivers side of the shifter. Remove the cotter-pin and teflon sleeve...DON'T LOSE IT!!!(see a theme here?)
4. Next are the four 12mm bolts holding the assebly(sp) to the frame.
5. Now the second shift rod, this one is underneath, and held on by the mother of all cotter-pins...DON'T LOSE IT!!!
6. The whole unit pulls out.
7. Repeat steps 3 and 4...there is a spring on the side of the housing remember how it sits, it is important.
8. Once you get the old shifter out of the housing, pull off the old friction cup...but don't damage it, or the gaskets...YOU WILL REUSE THEM. But you DO need to clean the cup.
9. Take the Y2K shifter and 5th Gen friction cup, grease them with a Silicone based lubricant...if you don't have a Silicone base, white lithium grease will work fine. Use liberally.
10. Reassemble everything in the reverse order in which you took it out.
11. Check for clearance, space if needed...shift away!!!

and then theres this on about clear tail lights

Clear Taillights


Note: This is based on the construction of taillights for '86 to '89 Celica, but '90 to '93 models are very similar in design and construction.


* 2'x2' transparent acrylic panel. I suggest to buy the more expensive type, Lexan or high impact acrylics, they are easier to work with and more durable.
* 2'x2' fluorescence lap cover, prismatic panel. Acrylic is more transparent, but more brittle. Styryl is more flexible, but not as transparent. There are a number of different designs to choose from, find one that suits your taste.
* Adhesive. I suggest polyurethane glue or high-grade silicone glue. I DON'T recommend the use of "hot" glue. It is reversible, i.e., melts in hot weather, brittle when frozen in cold weather.
* Cutting and shaping tools. I used a band saw, Dremel multipro, power sander, and sandpaper.
* Clamps. Get all the clamps that you could find, c-clamps, spring clamps, and even cloth clamps, the more the better.
* Paint.
* Masking tape.
* A good dictionary, incase you want to curse the way you have never done before.



Removal of taillights from vehicle. Remove the panels around the trunk. Don't forget to remove the hidden screws, some are just hidden with plastic caps, two are hidden under the covers for rear seats retention hooks and one in the cover of the jack access opening. Care should be taken when removing the side panels. The part that contains the speaker grill is attached to car by push-in clips, remove them carefully. Remove the four nuts on each side of light housing. Push the housing out with a constant force, take you time. It may help if you heat up the glue around the housing with a hair dryer, be careful not to crack the light or paint.

Removal of the stock lens. Break and remove the stock lens. Hit it carefully not damage the housing or the inner lenses that you may want to reuse. If you are familiar with Chinese Kung-Fu, hit the lens with a "steel-ball-on-chain" blow, this will damage the surface but not the internals. Remove as much of the glue as possible, impossible to remove all.

Trimming of housing>. Once the stock lens is Removed, trim the protrusions of the housing. There are two such protrusions, one between the signal and stop and one at the far edge on the opposite side. These protrusions are needed to be removed in order for the prismatic lens to fit into the housing.

Shaping of the replacement lenses. Use a piece of transparent acetate sheet (or two pieces taped together so that it is big enough) to trace the shape of the prismatic lens. You can make it anyway you desire, but I cut it such that the lens fits inside the rim and reserving the rim for gluing the clear lens to. Also, I reused the stock red marker, so my prismatic lens ended there. Always be satisfied with your patterns first before cutting the lenses. Repeat this procedure to make your clear outer lens. I made mine bigger than needed and trimmed after glued.

Painting the rims. Cut out another acetate pattern to mark the rim that is to be painted (this is needed on the outer lens only), to hid the glue. Mask off the areas that do not need to be painted. Sand the areas that are to be painted with fine sandpaper, I used 320 grid. Paint the sanded area with a few of coats of paint (I did five coats), the first coats should be as thin as possible (almost nothing). If you start with a heavy coat, the solvent from the paint could damage the acrylics. Also it is a good idea paint the black plastic housing with bright silver paint or chrome paint.

Pre-forming the lenses. Assemble everything together as if you are ready for gluing, but fix things in place with masking tape. Clamp everything in place, putting it in a bucket of hot tap water will make the bending process a little easier. After everything is clamped together, put the whole thing in a bucket of boiling water and disassemble when the water is cooled.

Final assembly. Sand all the surfaces that are to be glued, including the painted surfaces but be careful not to remove the paint. Clean all surfaces and glue together with a generous amount of glue. Hold things in place with clamps and don't touch anything for a day.

Final Shaping. If you made your outer lenses a little bigger as I did, then the final step is to rim the excess off and sand everything to your desire.

Final Notes. Depending on the design of your outer lens, keep in mind that the side marker is attached to the car with two screws. For one of my designs, the outer lens covers the red marker, so I had to drill the holes for the screws.

Good Luck and have fun! I have done 3 different prototypes and now planning to make some out of fiberglass. I will post pictures and instructions for that too once it is done, I can picture in my mind that it will look unique and blends well with the design of the car. E-mail me if you have any questions.

05-06-2008, 10:22 PM
your brother?!?! :laugh:


05-06-2008, 10:37 PM
^ :laugh:

Those tail lights are ugly as fuck by traditional standards.

Do you have them on your car? If so, lets see them.

The shortshifter is always a :bigthumbu

05-06-2008, 11:21 PM

05-07-2008, 12:31 AM
i made my own short shifter....works out fine for me.

05-07-2008, 03:59 PM
yea yea i thin lol no i dont have the lights like that i was woundering if it worked cause if so i would do them different but same way just make the light holes different shaped and paint it black how did you make a short shifter?? would it be the same as one you buy??