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Toy_Celi
02-07-2008, 08:19 PM
Ok, this is my first poll but i think it will work!

Wait... how do i add things?

Colossus20v
02-07-2008, 08:44 PM
edit your first post to make changes to the poll.

Audi90Quattro
02-07-2008, 10:40 PM
All of those seem like good choices to me. Depends on what kind of protection you want to go with Sealant/Carnuba Wax and whether you want to apply by hand or with a machine. Machines are great as they can spread a very THIN layer of product which can make removal alot easier. Because of this they also use alot less product which makes it last longer.

Beware though that adding a coat of wax on top of a badly prepped surface wont do much other than possibly cause more scratches to develop as well as make the car look worse. Some sealants such as zanio actually magnify the surface its applied to a little bit. Any scratches can show alot easier.


If you want to keep things inexpensive you can find yourself a suitable polish to use by hand and polish the paint to get minor imperfections out of the clear coat. Unfortunately you can't remove anything more than minor defects by hand and this process takes a very long time. MY advice would be to split the panels up by day. Do your hood and maybe fender one day, then tackle the door and rear quarter panel the next day. After the entire vehicle has been polished you can apply your LSP whether it be a wax or a sealant.

My process is as follows:

1. Wash car using Foam Cannon and two bucket method.
2a. Clay paint if needed.
2b. Wash car again after claying.
3. Compound either by hand, Random Orbit, or Rotary if defects are severe enough.
4. Polish to remove compounding haze again using one fo the three methods above.
5. Final Finish polish/Glaze depending on how much the customer wants to pay.
6. 2-3 Coats minimum LSP.

A full detail including interior/exterior/engine would usually run 3-400 depending on size and condition of vehicle.

If you need more help let me know. I'd be glad to help you pick some products that will meet the goals/desires you have for vehicle.

Toy_Celi
02-07-2008, 10:47 PM
All of those seem like good choices to me. Depends on what kind of protection you want to go with Sealant/Carnuba Wax and whether you want to apply by hand or with a machine. Machines are great as they can spread a very THIN layer of product which can make removal alot easier. Because of this they also use alot less product which makes it last longer.

Beware though that adding a coat of wax on top of a badly prepped surface wont do much other than possibly cause more scratches to develop as well as make the car look worse. Some sealants such as zanio actually magnify the surface its applied to a little bit. Any scratches can show alot easier.


If you want to keep things inexpensive you can find yourself a suitable polish to use by hand and polish the paint to get minor imperfections out of the clear coat. Unfortunately you can't remove anything more than minor defects by hand and this process takes a very long time. MY advice would be to split the panels up by day. Do your hood and maybe fender one day, then tackle the door and rear quarter panel the next day. After the entire vehicle has been polished you can apply your LSP whether it be a wax or a sealant.

My process is as follows:

1. Wash car using Foam Cannon and two bucket method.
2a. Clay paint if needed.
2b. Wash car again after claying.
3. Compound either by hand, Random Orbit, or Rotary if defects are severe enough.
4. Polish to remove compounding haze again using one fo the three methods above.
5. Final Finish polish/Glaze depending on how much the customer wants to pay.
6. 2-3 Coats minimum LSP.

A full detail including interior/exterior/engine would usually run 3-400 depending on size and condition of vehicle.

If you need more help let me know. I'd be glad to help you pick some products that will meet the goals/desires you have for vehicle.

Thnx for the info! i was gonna home detail it, and then put that Once a Year polish on....... Is it any good?

monkracing29
02-27-2008, 04:50 PM
hey i was thinking about doing some car detailing on the side since i detail them already for Newbold toyota in o'fallon illinois.
what would be good products to use for detailing cars?? :shrug:

Mr. Babb
02-27-2008, 05:14 PM
hey i was thinking about doing some car detailing on the side since i detail them already for Newbold toyota in o'fallon illinois.
what would be good products to use for detailing cars?? :shrug:


WAIT, you detail cars for a dealership and you DON'T know what products to use? I'm confused, can you help me out here?

bzdweezy
02-27-2008, 06:25 PM
hey i was thinking about doing some car detailing on the side since i detail them already for Newbold toyota in o'fallon illinois.
what would be good products to use for detailing cars?? :shrug:


your dealer probably orders supplies from a local company, so why don't you just do the same it'd probably come in bulk and maybe cheaper, you may even be able to get dealer pricing :wiggle:

tuner4life
02-27-2008, 07:06 PM
I use the wash mit with the Power wash gel soap (armorall I think??) then Shammy the car dry. take a towel and dry the jambs, trunk jamb and under the hood.

Then I wax all the painted surfaces with a good wax, either Dupont Teflon, or Even better, Meguiars Gold class liquid wax applied with one of the little round applicators you can get at wal mart for a buck. and buffed off with old cut up t-shirt material.

I also Wax the windows. Yeah I know It sounds crazy, but I get better results getting the crap off of them than using a glass cleaner, and also I feel that it repels water better than RainX.

Never Wax in direct sunlight or when the paint is hot. I just waxed in my garage this morning and I had it warmed up to about 40F and it was about the easiest time I've ever had waxing.

On older cars where the paint wasnt fresh, I have used claybar, or a good liquid "paint restoring polish", there are some out there just for restoring older faded paint.

Patience, attention to detail, and determination are the key to a good detailing

Lagos
02-27-2008, 08:38 PM
1. wash car
2. clay bar
3. wax

ciento44
02-27-2008, 08:39 PM
4. whack it furiously

monkracing29
02-28-2008, 01:57 PM
i know what products we use ....
i just wanted to know what you guys would recommend to use.....
thanks
for the tips
i dont think ill whack it furiously though lol

monkracing29
02-28-2008, 03:28 PM
tuner4life was right waxing the windows does make it look better than glass cleaner :bowdown: im not sure about the rain thing yet.... I really dont want to take it out in the rain after this detailing job :lolhittin
oh well that means i get to rub down her again and wax her up lol

tuner4life
02-28-2008, 07:50 PM
Rain is ok as long as there is a good coat of wax. It cleans up pretty easy that way. But snow is a no-go.

I've used rain-x and I've found that wax works at least as good if not better.

monkracing29
02-29-2008, 04:34 PM
i learned last night that your windows kind of streak when u use the wipers and not alot of rain hitting them...

Toy_Celi
02-29-2008, 08:08 PM
1. wash car
2. clay bar
3. wax

by the look of your car that must work wonders.... your car is like super shiny.... ALMOST as shiny as gt4rcdude's celica, but not quite there... i think he is a little obsessive ;)

Blackcloud
03-01-2008, 02:13 AM
i need to figure something out for my truck.. washed her today and found out that ive custom pinstriped it by off roading :hehe:

tuner4life
03-01-2008, 06:14 PM
i need to figure something out for my truck.. washed her today and found out that ive custom pinstriped it by off roading :hehe:

No comment... :laugh:

The Captain
03-02-2008, 03:46 AM
by the look of your car that must work wonders.... your car is like super shiny.... ALMOST as shiny as gt4rcdude's celica, but not quite there... i think he is a little obsessive ;)


I heard that. . .




I'm okay with that. :bigthumbu

Lagos
03-02-2008, 07:13 PM
I heard that. . .
I'm okay with that. :bigthumbu


I would say that out of 5th gens, your car is probably the closest to the same level of clean and shine as my car. If I ever decide to buy an alltrac, I would probably contact you first. :)

Toy_Celi
03-03-2008, 08:09 PM
I heard that. . .




I'm okay with that. :bigthumbu


:lolhittin !!!! :D ya know its true! i wish i had that kind of time and lack of OCD pills :D:D:D

monkracing29
03-04-2008, 03:45 PM
well hey its always a good thing to have an obsession with having a clean car

Lagos
03-04-2008, 06:18 PM
Depending on how bad your paint is, or how much you care about fixing it, it's also not a bad idea to have the car detailed and buffed by a pro. They can remove a lot of the paint scratches and really bring back the sine to the car. Just dont try to buff it yourself, as you might cause more damage if you don't know what your doing (been there).

Toy_Celi
03-04-2008, 07:49 PM
well hey its always a good thing to have an obsession with having a clean car

very true! many people here have made good comments about his car (including myself!) i even showed my brother, and he was like NO FAWKING WAY! THERE IS NO WAY A CELICA CAN BE THAT GOOD LOOKING!, and of course he got proved wrong! HAHA!

yay for OCD!!!!!!!!!!!!

monkracing29
04-12-2008, 05:20 AM
yes thanks for COCD lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Denver_whiteST185
04-12-2008, 07:17 AM
I would say that out of 5th gens, your car is probably the closest to the same level of clean and shine as my car. If I ever decide to buy an alltrac, I would probably contact you first. :)

don't forget gary's 93 :bowdown:

Denver_whiteST185
04-12-2008, 10:10 AM
i guess i'll post too. my paint is in desperate need of some attention. since the car went down late last summer, it hasn't gotten washed/waxed/etc once, and has dirty fingerprints EVERYWHERE. im planning on washing it this weekend, and i have a claybar kit, but thats about it. what would be some good products to revive the look of my celica, but on a reasonable budget.

Galcobar
04-12-2008, 12:55 PM
Best option is a random-orbital buffer -- it'd run you probably $200 for the (good quality) buffer, appropriate selection of pads, bonnets, cloths and cleaning/polishing/waxing products.

If you have a random-orbital sander, that will work too. Actually, the standard for buffers is the Porter Cable 7424, which is actually a sander. However, most people prefer to use it with a heavier counterweight since the 7424 ships with a weight designed for a sanding pad, as opposed to a foam pad. To get the heavier counterweight, order a 7336 -- same machine otherwise.

Alternately, you can do it by hand but the results won't be quite as good, and will take longer.

Claybar the car, then give it a polish with a product such as Meguiar's 83 Dual-Action Cleaner/Polish to remove embedded particles and stains/oxidation. Follow with a lighter polish, such as Meguiar's 9 Swirl Remover 2.0, to get a mirror finish, then seal with a wax/polymer/acrylic to preserve the condition.

If your paint is badly oxidised or scratched up -- as in 1200 grit sandpaper kind of scratches -- you might want to start with a compound, then move to the polishes.

I prefer to use Meguiar's Professional series, as it gives me the most specific information on what each product does, so I can determine how aggressive I need to be. Just keep in mind a machine will always do more than the same product applied by hand, and that you want to use the least aggressive methods first.

That said, DACP followed by a light polish will not harm your paint unless you use it too much. DACP is a relatively aggressive product, and not something I'd use every year. My go-to polish is Speed Glaze, which is 2/3 as abrasive.