PDA

View Full Version : $100 Paint Job



vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:34 AM
This is the thread for the $100 paint job. I'm doing it to my 90 Celica GT now. I've already done the prep work and I'm 4 coats into the job now. Hopefully this is of interest to some of you. For me it is an experiment. I bought the car for $1K a few months ago. Mechanically it's in pretty good shape. Paint wise, not so good. It was painted purple, like as in a multi-shade of grape... Whoever painted it sucks at it. Car was not prepped worth a darn. Spray inconsistent all over the car. There are at least 3 visible shades of the paint. I tried to work with it rubbing compound and it is almost gone anyway. And it's a stupid color. I swear I saw the car crying in the garage one night. The little guy deserves better. So I'm doing Gloss Black. Probably the worst choice as far as all my mistakes showing up. But the beauty of it is I can just paint another color on in the spring if I don't like this one.

So the $100 paint job idea is the one that is floating around the net. You do it with Rustoleum enamel paint using 4" high density foam rollers. Sounds silly. It actually isn't that bad. It most certainly isn't going to look like it came from a professional paint shop. But not what I do it can't look as bad as it did before I started. So in each response I'll add some info on the process and add pictures. Once I complete the whole process I'll package all the comments, ideas, instructions, do and don't do, etc and pictures into a PDF to distribute.

So here's the start with some teaser pcitures...

Graham

vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:36 AM
Before I started. This was even after I tried to use rubbing compound and buffing to do something with the purple.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/j/gjagger/Celica_Before.jpg

vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:39 AM
Car was fully sanded with 100 grit, then 100 grit, then washed, wiped down with mineral oil, then painted with 2 coats, then wet sanded.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/j/gjagger/Celica_2_coats_wet_sand.jpg

vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:41 AM
This is right after the 4th coat. Paint was dry to the touch but still curing.

http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/j/gjagger/Celica_4_coats.jpg

vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:55 AM
Right now it's sitting in the garage with coat 5 drying. Tomorrow it gets coat 6. Then I wet sand with only 800 grit.

Coat 1+2 after drying got wet sanded with 400 grit.
Coat 3+4 after drying got wet sanded with 600 grit.
Coat 5+6 will get wet sanded with 800 grit.

At that point I'll decide whether I want to roll a coat 7+8. I do believe at this point I'll finish the fine coat at the end from the spray paint can. You can get the same Rustoleum in the rattle can. Good for doing seams and edges and other places the roller won't get into well. I'm also hoping it will provide the least amount of orange peel.

Orange peel and uneven laying out of the paint is the major issue with the roller approach. Wet sanding out the orange peel isn't horrible but you don't want to end up taking off all the paint you just put on ... The right mixture and finesse with the rollers is what it is all about. I'm getting better at the finesse part. The mix is still in question. I believe at this point you can mix anywhere from 20%-40% mineral spirits and test to suit your liking.

If you can live with the orange peel the black is shiny enough that it wouldn't take much of a buff/wax to look good. I plan on wet sanding the final coat down from 800-1000-1200-1500-2000. Then polishing compound with a Porter Cable polisher and getting it real shiny.

I've also put all my items and costs in a spreadsheet to track the cost. I'll publish that also. I'm in $150 right now but I bought excess stuff that will get used for other projects at home. You could do this for under $100 if you didn't buy extras. Knowing what I know now I can also make a list you can use for about $75 or so.

Also tracking my time in that spreadsheet so I'll know how long it takes to do this. I'm doing it piece meal evenings and weekends as I get time.

Note: Mods if you really don't want this in the wash/wax section you can move it. I thought it fell into this area more than the general section. It isn't mechanical, it's cosmetic. And I'll wax it when I'm done anyway ;-)

extremeskillz
10-06-2007, 01:08 PM
Interesting. SInce you went throught the trouble of getting it preped (according to the pics fairly well btw) I would of done this with the paint gun. THis isn't the route im taking but i am interested in how it turns out.

Did you end up fixing that front bumper?

Murgatroy
10-06-2007, 05:52 PM
Great. Looking good.

I understand the idea of testing out the roller paint method as opposed to spraying it.

I am interested in seeing the final product.

Do you think the final result will rival say a MAACO paint job in terms of cost and labor? Leaving out the pride of having done it yourself.

I have much body work to do with Chaos before she is ready for paint, but I think this might be an option I would be willing to pursue.

vms4evr
10-06-2007, 07:07 PM
extremeskillz -

The initial prep is major. It's boring and tedious. But the more even and clean you get the surface in the beginning the better. I don't think it can be stressed enough just how much effort you want to put into it. Regardless of what paint method you use.

I didn't fix the bumper yet. I can see where it is messed up but I really need to remove the bumper cover and all the hardware. It was hit in that corner and the supports are bent. Probably one of the reasons why the headlight on that side will not retract. That's a project for later and won't interfere with me painting.

Murg -

If you can do that body work and prep work I'm sure you will save a ton on body shop labor. Other than laying on bondo or fiberglass properly. It's all grunt work with lots of sandpaper, wash, sand, wash .....

If this car was previously done by Maaco then yeah, I can beat them simply by putting more effort into it. That is where Maaco will beat me by a country mile. They put almost no labor into it. I wouldn't waste the $300 or whatever was paid for that shit they called a paint job. I spent more hours on prep than they did on the whole job.

If you get it really smooth and want to cut down on time then an LVHP gun would be just fine. If you can spray well without lots of deep orange peel. I have 2 issues with that. One I've never used an LVHP. Two I don't want my whole garage black from overspray and smelling like a paint booth. It already smells like paint just from letting the car dry in there.

The good thing is also when I'm done I'll have thick paint on the car instead of some skimpy little layer that fades and/or peels in a year. I'm probably going for 8-10 coats just because.

I got lazy on the front bumper where paint peeled and didn't just grind the whole thing down. Also I hate bondo with a frigging passion. So the retractable roof is not smooth or pretty like it should be. I'd have to remove it, grind it all down to bare metal, and start from scratch.

At the end of the day I'm going for a nice looking 10-20 footer. Anyone who gets 1-2 feet away will pick out every flaw in my work. Especially using black. It's just the shape of the car really looks good in black.

Murgatroy
10-06-2007, 09:07 PM
I have done bodywork since I was a kid. I have sprayed only two vehicles.

Right now I don't have the money to invest in the equipment. All I am after is a solid body color. A 20 footer so to speak. ;)

Joeye27
10-07-2007, 01:42 AM
great job! i like it, looks way better, the black makes it look a lot more agressive its going to look nice!

Hookecho
10-07-2007, 03:05 AM
i'm interested to see how this turns out. looks good so far.

vms4evr
10-07-2007, 05:14 AM
I put coat #6 on tonight. Went back to 20% mix of mineral spirits. That is not enough with this Rustoleum. It goes on thick no matter how you try to roll it. If you try to push hard and move it around. Kind of how you would roll paint on sheet rock. It leaves roller marks under the surface. Since I'm down to the last coats now. I'm going to try the next coat with a light roll and almost 50/50 mix. If it's too watery then not much will happen. Right now I have some surfaces that look super smooth and shiny. Some that are kind of rough. The hood is a real biatch to paint. Making roller marks not show there is a bugger. This car is way more curvy than you might think. Other than the roof getting even a 4" roller to sit flat is difficult without bearing down. It's sexy but a pain to chase with a roller. I even tried a 2" roller then chase with a 4" roller to blend the roller marks. I'm hoping when I do the wet sand tomorrow I can smooth it all out. I'll get back to you all on that one.

Once you finish a coat. Throw that roller away unless your cheap and want to try cleaning it with mineral spirits. I got a contractor grade pack of 5 for about $5. So figure $1/coat on the roller. Not worth cleaning them to me.

When you wet sand. Put the car out in the yard. Have a garden hose and sponge handy. Wet sand a section and wash it off before it has chance to dry. If not you'll leave smear marks. You want the paint to look "milky" and even when you are done.

Dog hairs and bugs are a real PITA!!! I've kept the dog out of the garage as much as possible. I sweep the floor regularly then wet it down with spray to help not kick up dust and hair. Then as I paint I watch the little @#$%ers just land on the paint... :ugh:

I'm debating putting a box fan with a furnace filter in the window and spraying a coat in the garage. I tried doing 1 panel outside and got so much crap stuck on the paint it wasn't worth the trouble. I'm also considering taking my 10'x10' pop up canopy outside and making a quick makeshift paint booth. Just needs to cover long enough to get the paint on then move the car right into the garage and close the door.

I'm also thinking of putting a white pin stripe down the side like you see on most cars just to break up the color. What do you guys think?

GotToyota?
10-07-2007, 07:05 AM
I'd like to see pics once it's all done and wetsanded/buffed.

-Matt

celicaGT90_05
10-07-2007, 07:43 AM
that actually looks really good man, about the crying part....my car always seems so sad because she was treated like crap before and finally getting treated right. I am wanting to shapen up the body and give it a nice lookin paint job...$100 paint job is deffinately up my alley, so how much did it cost you all together and was it very hard? I mean the paint does look a tad bit etchy, but it looks better than mine does currently

Ricksta
10-07-2007, 03:24 PM
its got that maaco look to it

turbo4ag
10-08-2007, 05:14 AM
Black is hard to get inperfections out. Needs more prep work than most others.

vms4evr
10-08-2007, 07:47 AM
Just finished a wet sand with 800 grit today and laying on 2 more coats. Nice and thin coats now. Almost 50/50 mix. Very little orange peel that should sand out with 1000 grit. Ordering a Port Cable 7424 Monday. This car will also be the guinea pig for that too.

Black is definitely the worst choice for a beginner to pick. Hey, I'm a gluten for punishment... It's still etchy in places and really smooth in others. So I need to pay more attention on my wet sanding. Definitely lots of manual labor. Probably have 50 hours in when I'm done. I also don't work that fast. Have a bad disc in my back that will be operated on in November. So I pace myself. You young guys could probably do it in half the time.

Right now I'm in $150. But I have a lot of excess sandpaper that I didn't need for just this project. Then extra roller bodies I really didn't need. They were purchased because I have paint work in my house to do. Also have half the bondo left over. So the final cost should come in under $100. You would have to buy your sandpaper sheets from somewhere that sells by the sheet to keep costs down. I probably have $30 in sandpaper sitting on the shelf. From 100-2000 grit. You don't need all of that. A few sheets of 100-150. About 4 sheets each of 400, 600, 800, 1000 would be enough. The 1500 and 2000 is to do more finishing with sandpaper and less work with the buffer. I'd rather wet sand than burn the paint with the buffer and rubbing compound while I learn how to use it best.

At the end of the day it may look no better than a Maaco job. That's fine. I can live with that. But Maaco would not charge $300 to do all the body work. The nice thing is that once this paint hardens I can drive it around and if I get the urge to work it more on the orange peel and shine I can sand it down and throw a couple of more coats on it later. We'll see. I'm hoping to be done paint and sanding by the end of the week. Then start with buffer and see how shiny we can get it.

celicaGT90_05
10-10-2007, 07:29 AM
black is a pain but hey! It's better than blochy purple lol Dude I want your interior...ugh....

Fastrac
10-14-2007, 06:14 PM
bump for updates

Doctor Jinxed
10-14-2007, 06:23 PM
bump for updates
+1

vms4evr
10-16-2007, 06:12 AM
Sorry about not posting an update. I had to take some time off the project.

I have to do more coats. My own fault. When I was wet sanding earlier coats with the 400 grit I got a little rough with it. Once I got down to the last coats and started wet sanding 1000-1500 grit. Then hit it with the buffer and polishing compound. Those scratches came through.

At least now the surface is baby's ass smooth and no orange peel or waves. I was fighting with that before. So I'm going to wet sand lightly with 1000 or 1500 grit. Then apply 2 thin coats of about 50/50 mix. Let that dry for a day or 2 then hit it with the polisher and see what happens. I found out that this paint is "soft" and can be moved with a buffer pretty easily.

I could have left it with some peel and just polished it up and been done with it. But I went for super smooth and it bit me back.

Black is not a color for amateurs! Pick white, red, yellow or something. Every flaw in the body and my work stands out.

So it'll be another week before I can get that finished. I will keep you all posted and make final notes so you can avoid my pitfalls.

extremeskillz
10-16-2007, 01:42 PM
SOunds good. Pics will be nice. :hehe:

Fastrac
10-16-2007, 04:31 PM
Thanks for the update.

bzdweezy
10-17-2007, 05:08 PM
looks way better than before...no more depressed nights for that celica!!

85gtsblackman
10-20-2007, 03:50 PM
once i find a bed im doing this to my truck

vms4evr
10-21-2007, 01:00 AM
Ok so this past week was not so good at work. I managed to finish all the wet sanding. Had to repaint the hood. Just finished sanding and did a medium cut buff. So the hood is kind of dull. The rest of the car has the 1st buff done and the shine is starting to come out. The surface is smooth as silk. A lot of friggin labor sanding and polishing. Next buff with a lighter cut tomorrow hopefully. So here's a little bit of the finished product. The sun was already starting to set so not a lot of background light. The blur is from me not being able to use a simple point and shoot camera...

http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/j/gjagger/Celica_1st_Buff.jpg

Murgatroy
10-21-2007, 05:06 PM
Looks 10 times better.

Hookecho
10-21-2007, 05:59 PM
that looks really good. i'd like to see a quality picture.

vms4evr
10-21-2007, 10:40 PM
EDIT: Fixed the links and moved the pictures over to Photobucket.


Second polish then a coat of wax. I'm done for now so what you see is what I got ;)

These are in medium res for the camera I have but they are resized to 1024x768. So they are 500K each. The originals are twice the size with a bit more depth. Too much to post in a thread. I can set the camera to go 6.1mp at most and take specific close ups of whatever someone might want to see. Just PM me with what you want and your email address and I'll get some. This is a fairly cheap Kodak easy share camera. I found a couple of pictures where it gets fooled with sunlight. Especially on a black car.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff254/vms4evr/Celica_Final_1.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff254/vms4evr/Celica_Final_2.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff254/vms4evr/Celica_Final_3.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff254/vms4evr/Celica_Final_4.jpg

vms4evr
10-21-2007, 11:01 PM
So above you see the final pics until I decide to do more. The hood needs to be wet sanded some more and the polished. It's not smooth yet. I won't polish the paint anymore for now. This paint is soft and needs a while to cure. Everytime I polish I get more paint off. Even polishing by hand with a soft cloth. So it's time to leave the paint alone. Let it sit out in the sun for a while. In a month I will go back over it with polish and wet sand any areas I'm not happy with. The beauty of this type of paint is you can go back later and do whatever you want.

The paint job will not pass the 1-2 foot test at all. You can see wet sand marks, some areas where the paint was too thin, some dull spots, places where I was too rough sanding or buffing. You do not see any roller marks or overlap from that at all. The car is smooth as can be.

Murg, not only will it pass the 20 footer test but the above pictures are taken at 10 feet. So better than I expected. 1-2 foot not a chance.

For giggles I called Maaco since we like to compare these home made jobs to Maaco. Well Maaco no longer has a $300 paint job in case you were doing the math. The cheapest paint job is $399. That is paint only. I asked them if I could bring the car down prepped and have them shoot it just to see what they would say. Not a chance. "We do not want your car contaminating our spray booth!" "We will go over the car and do all prep, including wet sand, wipe down, and whatever we feel is needed before we paint." "That is all labor on an hourly charge plus shop materials." Oh, and the final prep after paint also is at additional charge. They sell final sanding, polishing, special cover and bonding stuff, blah, blah... Well you know where that is going... That means plan on $100-$200 of prep costs, easily. So $500 before you can get out the door or probably closer to $750.

After I look at what is left over from my shopping spree for materials. I spent $150. I still have plenty of sandpaper left enough to do the car again. I have enough paint and thiner left 2 do 2-4 more coats. I have the roller handles, a solid tray and sanding blocks. So I just need roller refills now. Maybe some sheets of 1500 and 2000 grit. Although I've found medium cut polish is about the same as sanding with 2000 and 1500 in some cases. You would need to already own some kind of polisher though. I have the Porter Cable 7424 with a bunch of pads. So you can actually do this for $100 easily if you have some parts and are careful about getting only what you need. I'll dump my spreadsheet and post it including only what you need.

It is labor intensive. Plan on 80 hours if you're slow like me. Since it was my first attempt I did something over to see what would change. I also ended up doing 8 coats. 10 on the hood.

This paint is soft and depends on mechanical grip, not chemical grip. So each pair of layers needs something to get some teeth into. Not a lot though. You need to be super careful wet sanding, did I mention this paint is soft... It will scratch up easily when it is fresh. 1 day between a pair of coats before wet sanding might not be enough. I never let the car cure outside in the sun. It sat in my garage for a coupe of weeks. Only came to be wet sanded and washed.

It looks better and it isn't some kind of funky purple/grape multi-faded mess anymore. I learned a bunch. I'm going to do it again the spring now I know a bunch of technique things to do.

Joeye27
10-22-2007, 02:45 AM
:bigthumbu Awesome job! and and write up, looks way better then before. Congrads! looks like like you saved some cash for the Celi... I might be doing this in the the future, who knows thanks for the update and pics..

Audi90Quattro
10-22-2007, 06:30 PM
Looks pretty good for a rusto job. Im curious as to what compounds you used on the finish. Some of the body parts look somewhat dull and I'm just not sure if that is micromarring from a heavy cut compound or just the final product. You said the paint was super soft, I was curious what pads you were using as well. Might have to go to a softer pad, maybe even a finishing pad. All in all not bad tho. Any plans for a few coats of clear?

vms4evr
10-22-2007, 07:43 PM
I had to change all the pics from IMG and having them displayed to just the hyperlink. I cross posted that last 2 pictures on another website. They got hit pretty good. I got hate mail from my ISP telling me I need to pay them more money if I want to use that much bandwidth. So they're blocking access to my webpages temporarily. Those rotten bastages! I pay DSL and phone services charges every month and rarely put anything on or link to my home page. Bellsouth you suck..

I'll add the final pictures to my garage on here. Hopefully the mods won't be upset.

turbo4ag
10-22-2007, 08:30 PM
Or you could use photobucket. They dont care how much you use. And if you max out your account, just make another one.

The paint does look dull, but still 100x better than before. I would have done it the same way, but bought a single stage paint off ebay (usually $60) and bought an electric paint sprayer. Im probably going to do it this way on my own Corolla right before I sell it.

I already have the paint. Just not the sprayer or the time to do the body prep. I did the hood alone about 3 weeks ago and nearly sweated to death.

vms4evr
10-22-2007, 11:35 PM
:bigthumbu Awesome job! and and write up, looks way better then before. Congrads! looks like like you saved some cash for the Celi... I might be doing this in the the future, who knows thanks for the update and pics..

Saved enough to cover the cost of a new set of KYB struts and the tower mounting bits. Might even do some H&R springs.

If you ever do it then stay with White like your car is now. It is one of the easiest colors to do. So it'll hide a lot of mistakes and imperfections in the body. When I look down the side of the body now I'm amazed at how many little ripples and dings I can see. I might just repaint it red over the winter...

vms4evr
10-22-2007, 11:42 PM
Looks pretty good for a rusto job. Im curious as to what compounds you used on the finish. Some of the body parts look somewhat dull and I'm just not sure if that is micromarring from a heavy cut compound or just the final product. You said the paint was super soft, I was curious what pads you were using as well. Might have to go to a softer pad, maybe even a finishing pad. All in all not bad tho. Any plans for a few coats of clear?

Ok so I just got this Porter Cable 7424 Polisher. So yet another toy to play with and learn. I got a package deal that came with a bunch of foam pads. $199.99 package. http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html

I started with the Orange light cut pad and some 3M medium cut compound. I kept the surface pretty damp so it wouldn't tear it up. That got rid of the orange peel that was left. Then I used the white pad that comes with the polisher and applied some Duragloss polish (not cut, lightweight stuff). Then I forgot to wax it. So the picture is without waxing. I don't know that would have done anything at this point. I have been told I'm going to have to buff it more times and the shine will slowly come out. So if you have any suggestions on what to use and any other pads that will work with that PC polisher let me know. It's another learning process.

vms4evr
10-22-2007, 11:50 PM
Or you could use photobucket. They dont care how much you use. And if you max out your account, just make another one.

The paint does look dull, but still 100x better than before. I would have done it the same way, but bought a single stage paint off ebay (usually $60) and bought an electric paint sprayer. Im probably going to do it this way on my own Corolla right before I sell it.

I already have the paint. Just not the sprayer or the time to do the body prep. I did the hood alone about 3 weeks ago and nearly sweated to death.

I'm getting an account on Photobucket tonight and will redo the links. I found out Bellsouth only allows 30MB of bandwidth/day. That lasted all of about 2 minutes...

I thought about the single stage paint since a buddy can get me a good price from Sherwin Williams auto paints. But then it would be the Rustoleum paint job anymore. While I was in HD looking for stuff I saw an electric sprayer that said it could do enamel and oil based. They didn't have any in stock or I would have tried it. The rattle can idea is worthless. Not enough pressure or volume. Since I'm getting a compressor soon for other work I do in the garage. I saw a decent paint sprayer that looked like it would be a fun test. Just didn't read up on whether you can spray rustoleum thinned with mineral spirits through one of those. If not then I'll get the cheapest single stage I can and do the last coat with that.

For now it's cool. I've got a good solid base coat down. I'm not doing a clear coat on this stuff unless I get it to where I'm really happy. Otherwise the clear coat will just cover the problem area and have to be sanded down.

You do need some kind of wax with a UV inhibitor in it since the Rustoleum does not have that and it will fade from sun abuse.

jdmac44
10-25-2007, 03:30 AM
check out Drive Way online storage (http://www.driveway.com)

They give you 2 GB of online storage for a personal account (but unlimited general upload storage - haven't figured out the difference yet) 500 MB per upload and you can instantly upgrade it to 12 GB by sending a referral email to five friends. Three of the referrals I sent were to my own alternative email accounts. :)

You can upload and they will give you an URL that anyone can access or you can have them send the link. You can install a widget that will help you upload, for example by right clicking on a file your menu will give you the option of uploading and creating a link. Pretty good service, fast uploads/downloads in my experience and I checked for reviews online, they've been around for at least seven years, so they're not going to disappear any time soon.

Nice $150 paint job btw. I'm thinking about what to do with my GT. My factory red became the typical Toyota pink with oxidation. I managed to buff it out but I don't know how long it'll be before it comes back and eventually I'm down to primer/skin.

ebj
11-07-2007, 02:34 PM
Finally getting a chance to have a look around Sillytech, thought i might post some pictures of some work i had done on my car a while back with my dad, (almost 2 years now.) Spent no more than $100, mind you we had only sprayed the bumper and the bonnet.

Sprayed at night, outside with mosquitto's and midgies that happen to attract themselves to 2x500watt globes, and what we happen to be spraying *sigh*
(resulting in a couple of complete re-sand/sprays)

No Clear coat.
finished off with 2000Grit Wet and Dry.
a 3m cutting compound mixed with tap water. 50/50
and a final 3m buffing/polish compound.

finished off with an almost mirror finish, better than what you'd see coming out of factory, none of this wavey panel bullshit i see on the new BMWs that come out of perth, even my brothers Mini Cooper S ;D.

http://www.arach.net.au/~artsource/CELICA/DSC03427.JPG
http://www.arach.net.au/~artsource/CELICA/DSC03227.JPG (http://www.arach.net.au/~artsource/CELICA/DSC03427.JPG)
http://www.arach.net.au/~artsource/CELICA/DSC03228.JPG (http://www.arach.net.au/~artsource/CELICA/DSC03427.JPG)

unfortunately as it stands today, no clear coat and has'nt been kept undercover, the paints worn back and has pollen damage and weather damage, you can still see the glistening shine beneath all of the atmospheric crap, just need the time to finish it off, im thinking i might even do a full respray when i do the rest of the car. 'WHEN...' :laugh:

The main thing to know about spraying and getting a good finnish that i've found, and read about.

"The finish coat will only be as good as the coat beneath it", basically...

Bare Metal/Panelwork > Primer > Base Coat > Primary/Secondary Coat > Final Coat > Clear > Cutting/Polish. (or however you layer your paint work.)

If your panels are gorgeous and straight, and your primer layer/base coats are lousy, your finish is going to be just as lousy, you cant just keep sanding the top back to try and get it smoother, you'll only shred back through to the primer, rinse and repeat >

vms4evr
11-09-2007, 05:57 AM
Yeah but I used a roller, not a paint gun. ;)

I just got a new compressor and will get a paint gun in the spring time and give it a shot just for fun.

I used some 3M medium cut and mixed with water also. Stops the stuff from drying out and dragging the buffer.

What type of pad were you using?

Slider
11-09-2007, 08:42 AM
Yeah but I used a roller, not a paint gun. ;)

I just got a new compressor and will get a paint gun in the spring time and give it a shot just for fun.

I used some 3M medium cut and mixed with water also. Stops the stuff from drying out and dragging the buffer.

What type of pad were you using?

Check this out: http://www.harborfreight.com/ type in 43430 as the item number
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html

Decent gun for the money. I would probably rent a good compressor that can supply 45-50 psi to the gun. I had to deal with a crappy compressor that kept on tripping fuses and would only put out 20-25 psi, the paint didn't go on too well. :( I ended up running out of paint on the hood, so the color underneath isn't entirely covered so it's a little darker. Bunch of orange peel on the hood, and a few runs. Fender came out good, bumper had a couple runs from the compressor tripping the breakers when I was painting. I'd really like to give it another try with a good compressor.

Here's a crappy pic http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8530/img6837lu5.jpg I painted the fender, headlight lids, hood and bumper. No wetsanding or polishing after. Not going to waste my time, I might repaint it in the spring. Paint was $50, activator $20 and reducer $20. $150 worth of paint could do the whole car.

As far as the buffing, are you buffing after wetsanding? Or are you just buffing without wetsanding?

ebj
11-09-2007, 06:04 PM
What type of pad were you using?
I only used clean rags with the 3M gear, it works wonders. just gotta make sure its clean.

Slider:
I really wanna get my hands on a GTi Millenium Devilbiss gun! :D
about $350US on ebay which is pretty decent, compared to $1700.00 AUD retail...D=

Nice effort on the painting btw!

Personally, I wetsand down to 2000Grit, and then buff after, the telltail sign of when you should buff, and when you KNOW you'll get a perfected result, (in my experience.) Is when you get a gloss finish under the sanded 'rough' surface (rough compared to a finish coat/clear/buff) its like a gloss under a matt, and you look at it from an angle and you'll get a nice clean smooth reflection.

something along those lines.
Im tired and...Beers...and slaughtering people on nerdy xbox halo, awesomeness.

vms4evr
11-10-2007, 01:16 AM
Slider -
I did wet sanding after 2 coats of paint. Started with 400 grit. Then 2 coats and 600 then 2 coats and 800. Then I did a light wet sand with 1000, wash car, then 1500, wash car, then 2000, wash car, then 3M medium cut with the Porter Cable and a wool pad. Then light polish with the Porter Cable and a light pad.

My problem is either I can't wet sand for crap and/or I did not let the paint dry enough. They say the Rustoleum dries hard as rocks. I don't think so. It scratches pretty easily. Every time I touch it with sand paper I get scratches. Other than the hood the paint is as smooth as silk right now but shows scratches everywhere. You would think I dry sanded it with heavy grit to look at it.

I'll try that paint gun in the spring and shoot the car out in the driveway then roll it into the garage. I'll either try the Rustoleum again or just use automotive paint.

ebj -
Yeah it looked liked it was starting to shine a bit but had a milky top surface. That's when I hit it with the buffer and the 3M. I'll try using the 3M stuff on a cloth by hand this time. The paint has been curing for a few weeks now. So maybe it is hard enough that I can remove some of the scratches without making new ones...

celicaGT90_05
11-10-2007, 01:25 AM
what exactly is wet sanding and how do you do it? I've heard so much about it but have never actually done it

ebj
11-10-2007, 03:13 AM
The paint has been curing for a few weeks now. So maybe it is hard enough that I can remove some of the scratches without making new ones...

A few weeks in he sun is always good, depending on your % of paint/thinners in your spray, heat and good sunlight is always awesome to cure the paint (Or a spray booth with 100deg UV lights! :D a furnass even!!), unfortunately when i did mine it was dark, and alot of moisture was in the air, and a bit of sprinkled rain did'nt help.

resulting in a bit of orange peel, but that came straight off.

If i remember correctly as soon as we finished with the 2nd or 3rd layer of paint, we went straight to 1000grit, because the surface/primer layers we had smoothed down pretty excessively, like what i was saying before "a top coat is only as good as the coat below it."

Always just check that you dont have a buildup of paint pigment on whatever your rubbing/sanding with, as this will just put more scratched deeper into the paint. This should'nt however be an issue with wetsanding.

Other than that im not sure, it seems that everyone has a different effect based on there technique, trial and error with the 3M cutter is what gave us an awesome result. That said, we only painted the bumper and bonnet, yet to do the whole car, but i sure is hell will be painting in summer, winter just does'nt do it.