View Full Version : Vacuum hose - specific or roll of generic?

09-24-2007, 06:16 PM
I need to replace the vac-hose from the EGR modulator to the EGR intake. The part number is is 2569574010 ($13.94 from Champion Toyota). Should I get the actual part or a roll of vacuum tubing? Actual part is formed w/ a couple slight bends, but I don't think it would matter much to just cut the same length and let it curve on its own. Thoughts?

Does anyone know the various vac-tube thicknesses for an 88 GTS? I might just get a roll of each and replace each and every vac line I can find in the hopes of either replacing leaking lines or at least getting all new vac lines to take that out of the equation as I try and trouble shoot the lean running engine.

On another note, I'm pretty sure my intake manifold gasket is leaking. I'm guessing this is a stupid question, but could that be a source of lean running engine? Makes sense since it's after the AFM. There are two gaskets, one on either side of the air control valve meter. Guess I might as well replace both since I've already spent the time taking off the manifold. Do these gaskets need any sealer applied or just put'em on dry?

I'm also leaking at the exhaust manifold and will replace that one, too, but I'm thinking that wouldn't contribute to a lean running engine. Correct? Thanks.

09-24-2007, 06:32 PM
my entire engine is generic. its fine. and any leak after the afm will cause a rich run, because that metererd air leaked out instead of getting burned with the fuel the ecu set aside for it. check the BBG!

09-24-2007, 06:46 PM
Would leaked air account for low manifold vacuum? That's what the dealership said (low vacuum) but they couldn't figure out why.

09-24-2007, 07:24 PM
On a boosted car it will a leak would cause a rich situation since air will be leaking OUT (manifold is under pressure). But on an N/A application a leak would cause a lean condition since air is leaking IN (manifold is in vacuum and sucking) causing MORE air than the afm read to get in the motor.

A leak will cause a low vacuum situation in the manifold. Brand new manifold gaskets do not need any sealers. Just torque it down properly. You are right by assuming that a minor leak at your exhaust manifold will not cause any lean or rich problems.

You can just use a roll of generic tubing.

09-24-2007, 09:41 PM
Can anyone recommend a brand of vacuum tubing, or does it not matter? Also, what diameters do I need to cover all the various lines? Thanks guys. I got a feeling I'm getting close to exorcising this ghost (or did I just jinx myself...).

09-24-2007, 10:23 PM
Anything as long as its intended for automotive vacuum/windshield fluid use. The best way is just to take a little bit of good hose from the middle of the line preferably (so that it won't have been stretched bigger by the nipples) to advance auto parts or autozone or o'reilly's and have them match it and give you like 9 feet of it. Its usually cheap like <$1.00 per foot if you get it off the roll instead of the pre cut boxed sections.

I would bet a great deal that fixing your manifold and other vacuum leaks will help ALOT towards your goal of getting your car up and running good. On my old 3rd gen honda prelude i had a massive manifold to head leak (the genius who last took it off forgot to put on all of the passenger side bolts and nuts) and once i fixed that it ran like a champ.

09-25-2007, 04:05 AM
hahaha, stupid boost, i forgot about that. thanks

09-25-2007, 04:54 AM
yeah generic tubing will be fine as long as its made for automotive purposes, and it will be much cheaper anyway

09-25-2007, 05:10 AM
hahaha, stupid boost, i forgot about that. thanks

lol. Its kool. :bigthumbu It's easy to get mixed up when half of our cars are turbo and the other n/a.