View Full Version : Nuke's Nitrous Notes

12-03-2004, 09:14 PM
Some Q&A fielded by Nuke

hey, i have an 86 celica gt with a 2se motor and im planning on using nitrous. if anyone can help me answer my questions, it would be great..
- how big are the stock injectors?
- would i need bigger injectors to run 75 shot?
- what else do i need to keep in mind when using nitrous?
i dont see many people using nitrous in their celicas, so its hard for me to find info.. thanx in advance

2se is not a fuel injected engine

- how big are the stock injectors?

- would i need bigger injectors to run 75 shot?
Doesn't work that way.

- what else do i need to keep in mind when using nitrous?

Nitrous on a carbed car, you'd pretty much have to go either wet or dry. With dry you're going to have to rejet your carbs to compensate for the n2o. Since you didn't know you had a carbed car i assume this is beyond your reach to be able to tune your fuel jets for nitrous.

Wet means you'll spray both n20 and fuel into the intake side of the engine. On carbed cars they usually do this by using a spacer plate with a nitrous rod the rod has a lot of small holes in it pointing with the direction of airflow. The rod runs across the opening in the spacer plate. On the outside of the plate there is the metering jet which controls the n2o flow to the engine.

There is a similar bar for fuel to be 'injected' into the engine as well..

Here is a picture of a plate for a holley carb:


(courtesy of summit racing)

This is the typical way of spraying n2o into a carbed engine.

What you should do is try and find if anybody makes a 'velocity stack' or a 'spacer plate' for the 2se carburator. and use that to plumb your n2o system.

75 shot is a bit much for a 2se.

You'd have to ask around to see if it's a good idea to spray n2o before the carb. That is something i don't know of. If you could then you could just use a typical wet fuel injection nitrous system and run that before your carb (call NOS's techline they will help you with all of this).

Make sure to check your fuel pressure before you do this. Most carbs run around 5-10psi of fuel pressure instead of 35-45 for fuel injection. Make sure to use the right size fuel metering jets for your low pressure!!!!!! if you use fuel injection sized jets you will run lean and kill the motor so keep that in mind.

Other recommendations for nitrous:

1- healthy fuel system (check pump, filter, carb jets...etc and make sure is all up to speed)

2- healthy ignition system ( a nitrous missfire/backfire can cause ALOT of damage) make sure your distributor/ cap/ and wires are all healthy.

3- Proper plugs, use copper plugs (not copper core, not platinum, not iridium) but just straight up copper plugs (autolite or NGK are the best) and get them in 1 heat range colder than your stock plugs. Also make sure to get ones with recessed tips...

If you tell me what your NGK OEM replacement plug part number is i can tell you what plugs you need to get.

good luck.

ok my bad

for some reason i thought e was for emissions package and f was for fuel injection.

of course it was a brain fart.

f and g are head design ...e is FI

anyways. Yes now that we know it's fuel injected just get a regular wet kit (NX or NOS) and you don't need to worry about stock fuel

again my bad.

man, thats way more info i thought i would get, lol. thanx for all of it. since i dont gotta worry bout the stock fuel, is it still wise to run a 75 shot? or just stick with 50?


if you have time to look at your car's injectors and see if you can match them up to one of the ones on this list ...you can tell by color and connector :


So that would answer question 1.

Question 2.

I advise you to use a wet kit. The wet kit injects both nitrous and fuel into your intake tract at the same time. Here is a picture of a wet kit fogger nozzle :

(courtesy of summitracing.com)

This eliminates the nitrous system's dependance on your stock injectors because the fuel is injected via the fogger. However your pump still needs to flow enough fuel to feed the injectors as well as the nitrous jet. This is why it is essencial to have a good condition fuel pump and a clean fuel filter to go with.

question 3.

what you need to keep in mind is that your car is going on 18 years old now. how old is your motor ?

I highly recommend a compression check. If your compression is low i wouldn't use nitrous on an old worn out motor.

Nitrous considerations : Enough fuel, GOOD cooling, start small work your way up (start with a 35 shot), highest octane you can find (91+)... etc

Let me know if you need anymore info

And some notes on precautions when using nitrous:

i think nitrous would hurt rings and bearings way before the head gasket

Nitrous is abusive to :

Rings because of the increased combustion temps from forcing more air in there

Bearings from the torque spike associated with a hp jump at very low rpms (75 shot @ 2500rpm releases around 150ft-lbs of added torque)

Exhaust valves again because of the increase in combustion temps.

Clutches because of the torque spike.

Sensors because of the cool nitrous charge. I've seen multiple cases of fried map sensors or AFM's... this is also why most dry kits now rely on FPR's to add fuel instead of spraying before the AFM And relying on the stock ECU to enrich for n2o.

Head gasket is not at risk unless you're running lean or detonating (over advanced timing) at which case alot more than your head gasket is at risk. So i'm not goin got conisder this a normal thing.

Take care, take the precations they told you about. Don't use anything but copper plugs on a nitrous car and make sure they are 1 stage colder for every 75-100 hp you spray.


Some stuff that I would recommend before nitrous also: new timing belt, compression test, make sure your injectors anf fuel pump are good, basic maintanence (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), check for oil leaks... that's all I can think of off the top of my head. If I missed something I'm sure someone will add it...