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VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 10:43 PM
Is now kaput.

I'm pissed because the guy said it worked. I figured it just needed a charge.

Compressor is shot



Any advice?

T-spoon
06-19-2007, 10:46 PM
Advice? Hope there's a remanufactured one available because brand new would be around $800... but don't be mad.. you bought a Lexus, have to be prepared for this..

VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 10:50 PM
Reman from AutoZone is $340.

Should I replace the Orifice Tube and Condensor?

Find a used compressor?

T-spoon
06-19-2007, 10:53 PM
Hurray autozone.. well do what you have to do.. I don't know that you HAVE to replace the condensor, but I have no idea what kind of condition it's all in.

VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 11:11 PM
Perhaps I should paint you a picture Dave? haha

The car was converted to R134-a, presumably without backing out the R12 beforehand. The compressor cycles and the car blows hot air inside the cabin. My friend also confirmed it, the car reads 80 when you hook guages up to it.

Now...there could be a lot of crap in the condensor, and getting a new compressor wil be obvious, but it may just blow again if there is stuff in the condensor.


What SHOULD I replace other than the compressor and freon (lol).

VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 11:12 PM
Also, Ebay continuously carries auctions from people having Denso REMAN compressors for less than $200.

Hooray Ebizzle for shizzle.

T-spoon
06-19-2007, 11:13 PM
Ewww. Honestly I haven't done much with AC systems. This is where Rix or Alltracman should jump in.

T-spoon
06-19-2007, 11:14 PM
Also, Ebay continuously carries auctions from people having Denso REMAN compressors for less than $200.

Hooray Ebizzle for shizzle.

Well, just being Denso originally does not guarantee anything. It depends on who it's Remanufactured BY.

VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 11:50 PM
True that.


Anyone else with advice?

VikingJZ
06-19-2007, 11:51 PM
The one I looked at on Ebay had a one-year warrantee.

So at least it is good for a year...........lol.

Amaymi
06-20-2007, 06:39 AM
I would get a reman with a warranty and also get the orifice tube/expansion valve, and accumulator/drier. Those both can get cloged up if the compressor goes especially if its because of a mechanical failure. Plus most places require you to replace them in order for the warranty to be valid.
Put eveything together then get it evacutated or deep vacuumed to see if there are any leaks. Then fill it with the correct oil charge and r-12 (if thats what it originally came with). You will need to take it to a shop for the evacuation and deep vacuume (unless you have the equipment) and also for the r-12 (unless you have a license to get it). I get r-12 for about $10 per 12 oz. can. Not too much more than the $6-7 you pay for r134a at auto parts stores.
Your condensor should be fine. Visually check it for breaks in the passages as you would check a radiator. If you don't see any visible defects then there probably aren't any. I would also replace all the seals that you can get to while your at it.
All those r134a "conversion" kits that you get at auto parts stores WILL leak out eventually.

VikingJZ
06-20-2007, 09:14 PM
For shizzle.

I've always wanted to say that.

This car is worth doing everything correctly, which is why I'm going to be careful.