View Full Version : CEL codes after my swap

05-09-2007, 06:34 AM
Yea so I've finished installing a 3sgte into my 92 gts again, and I'm getting cel error codes 22, and 35. Now I think that 35 is a vacuum leak, but 22 is a temperature sensor error. And I'm just looking for verification that 35, is a vacuum leak, and 22 is the temperature sensor(not sure how to fix it one).

05-09-2007, 07:43 AM
hey i get the same code with my gen2 3sgte it only happens when i raise boost. i was told it was abnormal boost pressure and is prob the boost pressure sensor wiring or crook sensor as i dont go over 10psi so its not fuel cut

05-09-2007, 09:33 PM
35 vacuum leak? - No. It means your MAP sensor wiring is bad, the MAP sensor isnt plugged in, or the MAP sensor itself is bad.

22 is the engine/ecu temp sensor in the coolant neck IIRC.

It will run with both errors on, but it will run rich as hell and it wont boost correctly.

05-09-2007, 09:44 PM
BGB anyone?

05-09-2007, 10:56 PM
Thats funny Clay, Ive actually had both errors on my MR2. I actually knew those ones. :p

05-09-2007, 11:23 PM
funny thing is its not running, I'm going to test voltage on the map sensor, any other reason why it wouldn't start?

05-09-2007, 11:39 PM
Neither sensor will keep your car from running.

The engine temp sensor will keep it from WANTING to start though. Your car will take FOREVER to start... Keep trying. You might have to crank it over for 10 seconds at a time up to 3 times before it will catch.

If it still wont start after that you got some other issue. Check fuel, spark, compression, timing, etc.

05-10-2007, 01:35 AM

She runs... I tightend all ic piping, and silly me forgot to plug in the map sensor. Then I noticed that the distributer was not bolted down, so I turned it to the right as high as it would go, and put a bolt in it, and it runs. Hold idle, can step on the gas and it goes.

So now I have no error codes. But the one thing that does bother me is my abs light is on now, is that a usually and is there a way to either dissable the light and run without abs, or a quick easy way to wire it in so it works?

05-10-2007, 01:48 AM
Then I noticed that the distributer was not bolted down, so I turned it to the right as high as it would go,

just make sure you get a timing light and set it correctly . you could do some real damage by just having it all the way to the right.

05-10-2007, 01:51 AM
You need to set your ignition timing now.

Jump TE1 and E1 and set it to 10 or the T mark on the timing cover piece.

05-10-2007, 04:05 AM
jezz, I feel so connected to you guys, I was thinking about setting my timing right after I posted that. But I decided to rebuild my axels instead, 2hrs later and all I have accomplished is the inner boot is off and cleaned. I still need to get that stupid clip off of the axle. I don't have the right tools to do them, So I think I'm gonna call it a night.

05-12-2007, 11:15 PM
So Got the axle bolts off new axles rebuilt and installed. Dropped the car, and then tried to start it today. It ran for a min. then shut off, I thought I had run out of fuel, as the fuel light was on.
I pour'd in some 94 octane gas, and went to start it up again, and it just cranks.

I checked for spark, at plug one, and at the distributer, and there is spark.
I checked for fuel, and I can hear the fuel pump running as I have B+ & FP bridged, and can smell a little fuel.

Can anyone give me any other things that could be wrong, or things to check before I go back tommorow to check my timing. I need you to keep in mind that it was running and idling at about 1k steady, for the last 3 nights.

05-13-2007, 04:51 PM
so I should take that no one has any other ideas

05-14-2007, 02:11 AM
Check your distributor connector. You might have unplugged the ignitor. Also check your AFM, and also recheck for codes.

05-14-2007, 04:02 AM
Yea, ignitor is pluged in, afm pluged in, no codes being thrown, what gives, anything else please! This is driving me insane.

05-15-2007, 11:16 AM
So I went and decided to take a look at my timing and sure enough, my exhaust cam was almost 90 degrees from tdc. Don't know how that happened, but after I reset my timing. My 3s fired up once again and came to life, I then set the timing using a gun to 13degrees. It seemed so surreal, like something out of an old frankensin movie, thunder flashing in the night cloud in the horizion.

But I messed up along the way and broke the alternator tensioner bolt. So after I tried several times to boost my car using some jumper cables each time I pulled them off it would die.(sorry I just pulled an all nighter and forgot that the battery wouldn't hold a charge, due to me braking the bolt. But I'm excited all the same, and now I'm gone to bed.
Good night.

05-27-2007, 12:46 AM
So I thought I was in the clear, after replacing the above parts. The battery holds a charge, everything was hooked back up. But it looks like the new toyota OEM headgasket I used is blown, I'm getting smoke outta the exhaust, its over heating and I got no power at all, lots of hesitaton, and a little backfiring.

So after letting it sit for a week, I started calling around places to see if I could get someone to redo my timing(up untill today I thought that was the reason for my car running the way it did).

Well eveywhere I called said they couldn't look at it, and that I could drop it off next thursday and would look at it the following week. So I had the time today and the weather was nice enough so I cracked open the valve cover for the 3rd time since the motor went back into the car.

1. Slight bit of oil on the #1 spark plug wire(part that holds the spark plug)
2. Timing is still off cam lob marks line up at the top, but crank is at 5 degrees.
3. Pulled #1 spark plug and the is oil coating the spark plug. Smells really bad.
4. Was talking to a friend of mine, and he said cuse I used arp head bolts, I should have torqued the bolts to 60lbs, and not what the bgb says.

Are these all signs that I blew my hg?
If it is, I'm thinking that it blew when I was cranking it, after it had run for a while and then stopped(due to how I set the timing the first time.

I'm goung to check my compression in a min.

I really feel like giving up though after all of this. Just glad I didn't take it to a shop for them to charge me just to find out my headgasket was cooked. That would have been a $400 dollar bill just to find out the were looking at the wrong thing. jezz

05-27-2007, 01:39 AM
You have a headgasket issue. Yes.. you should have tightened down the ARP studs more.. I swear by 67 ft/lbs.. thats my personal mark, i've never stated it, but thats it. You need to pull the head, redo all your timing - set all marks to 0 - torque it all back down and go at it again.