View Full Version : A/C Removal Questions

04-17-2007, 12:04 PM
Hey guys.

I've been trying to search for this all night and haven't found any luck. I currently have the car apart and the engine out in the GT-S and am waiting for a new motor. My A/C has never worked in the car so I want to get rid of it. Before I go tearing into something that I don't fully understand though, I wanted to ask some questions. Sorry if these have been asked before. By the way I have a 1990 GT-S with a 5S-FE.

So far I removed the receiver/dryer and the condenser. Would the system be completely gone if I removed the hardlines along the side of the engine bay into the firewall, the compressor, and the evaperator/cooling assembly behind the glovebox?

Are the heater assembly and cooling assembly seperate? Or are they connected together? Do I remove the cooling and leave the heater?

I don't have an engine to look at right now so I'm not sure whether the compressor has it's own belt or if it shares the alterator belt. If it has it's own, do I just remove the belt and leave it at that? If it shares the belt with something else is there one for the 5S-FE without A/C?

Is there anything else I am not thinking of or missing altogether that you guys can tell me about? Thanks for any help with this it is much appreciated.


04-17-2007, 12:10 PM
It shares the serpentine belt if I remember correctly (at least it does on the 3SGE) and in order to ditch it you'll have to find a different belt and I have no idea what would work for ya. And as to removing your AC stuff... take it to a shop and make sure it doesn't have any um... coolant?refrigerant (don't remember the term for it) in it. Big, big EPA fine if someone reports you.

04-17-2007, 12:14 PM
Just remove the compressor and everything under the hood. I know on the the 4AFE it was a separate belt. I removed it when I did my timing belt. Took out the lines and removed the bracket. It just wouldn't be worth tearing your dash apart to save 5lbs that may or not be related to your heating system.

04-17-2007, 12:22 PM
It's not that big of a job to get to it. It's right behind the glovebox and that only has 4 screws. I saw on the 4a-fe that it was an independant belt. So it does run with the alternator?

Were there 5S models without A/C? I read in another thread while searching that somebody had to choose between a belt for a motor with and without A/C. If there are these two belts should I be able to use the belt for the non-A/C engine?

Thanks for your quick replys guys.

04-17-2007, 12:33 PM
Why not keep the system? If your going to spend the time and $$$ on your engine project the little bit more you'll spend on getting the a/c system working is pitance. I "assume" (could be wrong) that your compresser is the problem. I just finished "resealing" a Sanden compresser in my Jeep (and replacing the a/c clutch bearing) and will next tear down and reseal the NP compresser in my '84 GT-S....and Ive NEVER worked on these before.

Yes you need some tools...Yes you need some info (which is on the 'net or in books) but come on guys...We can tear into motors, suspensions, sound systems etc and we dont want to fool with a/c systems??

Just think of that cold air flowing out of the dash when its a 100* in July....and yes it I think now days (globle warming you know :) ) every state in the Union has its 100* days.....Besides do you really want your girl "sweating" in your car as you cruise around ???

Really I'ld fix it and...be cool.


04-17-2007, 12:42 PM
Thanks for the advice. It's not that I don't want to fix it. I just don't use it. I don't really like the air that comes from an A/C either. I'd much rather crank the window and throw an arm out (Arm Speedo).

By removing the system I know I would lose weight. Would I also reduce the parasitic loss by eliminating the rotating mass on the engine? Just a thought to throw out there. Any insight? Plus the engine bay will look a little bit less crowded.

04-17-2007, 02:11 PM
Yes A/C shares the belt with the alt. so you'll have to get a new one but they are readily available at any parts store. Goodyear belt part# is 4050395, good belts btw.

04-17-2007, 02:39 PM
Thank you Grayscale.

Now, does anybody know whether or not the heater assembly and cooling assembly are connected inside the dash? I know it's not nessesary to remove this but I don't want one peice of a system in the car if it's not working.


04-17-2007, 05:10 PM
You can probably use a belt from any car that had the 5s-fe without a/c option installed. When I removed the a/c on my alltrac I used a belt from an '89 Celi gts 3sge without a/c option.

04-18-2007, 12:48 AM
Ship me your A/C (:

04-18-2007, 01:46 AM
Thanks, I kind of figured that any non-A/C 5S-FE belt would work.

Anybody have some insight or CTech guru wisdom to share about the heating and cooling assemblys? I want to take the cooling unit out and still have the heating unit work.


04-18-2007, 09:30 AM
I heard somewhere that the clutch was a common problem maker in the 5th gen AC system.

04-18-2007, 10:16 AM
Yeah, I heard that too.

04-18-2007, 11:08 AM
Hmm, never had that problem on any of mine. As for your other question, I'm not positive, but there have been many other people with the a/c removed and they have never reported any problems with the heat so I assume nothing conflicts there, and I can't imagine what would.

04-18-2007, 12:14 PM
Maybe what I'll do is look at the system in the GT before I take it out of the GT-S. I'll report my findings.


05-23-2007, 03:46 PM
I always thought the smaller belt was for A/C but maybe that's for the power steering? I want to take mine off my 5S also. I could have sworn there was a write up on here but I can't find it. Have to write one myself I guess :)

05-24-2007, 03:17 AM
Smaller belt is for the pwr steering.
The AC and alt share a belt.

You can [obviously] get a non AC belt.
You don't need to change any pulleys on the 5S, the alt is the tensioner.

The heater core is separate from the AC evaporator.
However if you remove the evap you will have a rather large hole in your blower vent system [unless you find the ducting for the non AC Celicas].
The blower is to the right of the evap and the heater core is to the left.
You should understand when you go in there.

I suggest you save the AC parts, you will probably be able to make money off them.

One more note.
If you're going to pull the AC, remove the pressure sensor from the high pressure line and plug it back into the connector by where the engine harness goes through the firewall.

Otherwise your radiator fan will run all the time.

05-24-2007, 03:30 AM
Thanks for the help AllTracMan. I'm going to leave the evaporator in until I can find the right ducting. I wouldn't have even thought about the sensor.

05-28-2007, 05:12 PM
Well I removed mine on the weekend. 4 bolts for the compressor, three came out first try, one gave me about an hours struggle, I just broke it loose at the moment when it felt like it was going to round off completely (phew). Had to remove the alternator to get at it of course but that was it. To remove the condenser I had to take off the plastic shroud around the hood latch and the splash guard off the bottom. Had to remove the hood latch and it's support. Took the fan off first (which was horribly seized btw, no wonder if didn't work) and then just unbolded the lines and took the 4 bolts out of the condenser and that was the end of that. The low pressure line goes behind the ABS manifold which is impossible to remove so I just cut the line off and left it there. This would have been the end of t but I nicked the power steering cooler return line in the process and it all leaked out.... And that line is also under the manifold where you can't get at it, so I'm routing a new one, it's just a rubber hose so it's not a big deal. There's enough room between the rad and the bumper support now to put 2 intercoolers in now :). I never came across that high pressure sensor that Alltrac is talking about but I suspect it's in the line I just cut and didn't remove.

05-28-2007, 09:31 PM
Nobody answered this question, so I will...
A/C has no parasitic power loss as long as it is not engaged. It's just a freewheeling pulley.

In my opinion, leave it in. The 5-10 pounds you are going to lose is going to make a minimal/tiny/insignificant difference in performance.

06-01-2007, 03:00 PM
Nobody answered this question, so I will...
A/C has no parasitic power loss as long as it is not engaged. It's just a freewheeling pulley.

In my opinion, leave it in. The 5-10 pounds you are going to lose is going to make a minimal/tiny/insignificant difference in performance.

It was more like 35 lbs with compressor, fan, lines, oil and condensor. And assuming there's nothing binding the compressor pulley to begin with, at the very least it's one more bearing to go bad on you at a shitty time. And the load it took off the radiator by getting that condenser out of the way was more than worth it for me.

06-01-2007, 07:09 PM
To each there own. :shrug:

That pressure sensor is up by the firewall, on the skinnier of the two lines.

The Captain
06-02-2007, 04:03 PM
There is a removable section of ductwork behind the glove box that houses the evaporator core. It's about 10 inches wide and 12 inches tall. Wires connected to this box are for a/c control. It's between the fan motor and heater core. Disconnect the lines near the firewall, remove the glove box, remove the bolts that secure the evap section to the firewall and pull it out. Replace the duct section with a non-a/c section from a donor car. Plug the hole from the a/c lines through the firewall. Just yank the under hood stuff. Don't forget the condenser. The only thing the pressure sensor does in my car is prevent/allow the compressor clutch to engage without/with the presence of freon. Now pray it's never hot when it's raining and your windows fog up. The a/c system is simple and easy to fix. I just replaced everything in my Mercedes (compressor, evap core, expansion valve, receiver/dryer etc.) Good luck.