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Ricksta
03-06-2007, 06:46 AM
as im taking everything down to the block i notice that pretty much all my bolts are rusted pretty bad anywhere near the exhaust manifold and turbo. after im done putting the motor back together i dont want this to happen again. is there bolts that arent going to rust? and is there a way to make it so that my turbo and everything around it doesnt rust? id like to buy some type of aftermarket bolt kit for all the external stuff.

i know i saw alltracman replace all his bolts with alan bolts which is a pretty nifty idea but where did you get them? and are they going to rust?

also when i took the wastegate off there was something bouncing around inside is that normal?

andy
03-06-2007, 07:08 AM
the wastegate thing--- yes that is the flapper vavle that controls the boost, if you take off the wastegate actuator it flops around and has a grand ole time.

grayscale
03-06-2007, 07:21 AM
You can get a few nuts and bolts and home depot and such, but for a complete selection you will need to go to/order from Fastenal, or MSC, or, McMaster-Carr or something. Here-
http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex?action=search&zip=&state=FL
or
www.mcmaster.com
www.mscdirect.com
Other than that I have no idea where you could get socket head(allen head) bolts in such a wide variety.

Ricksta
03-06-2007, 11:16 PM
wheres alltracman?

T-spoon
03-06-2007, 11:23 PM
ARP offers a bunch of different fastener options, but I doubt you'll find a kit for your engine that has every size and length for each application. Also, as far as ARP goes, that'll be mostly internals. Some fasteners you have to pay close attention to because they'll have stand-off, particular head sizes for clearance issues, etc. But sure, you can replace them all if you have a good metric source.

alltracman78
03-07-2007, 03:03 AM
wheres alltracman?

Gone fishing

But I might be able to help.

I only replaced certain ones with allen head bolts.
Mostly I used regular cap headed bolts.
Basically allen is only good if you don't have room to fit a socket around a bolt head, like if it's in a hole.
I replaced all the phillps screws with allen bolts, except the valve cover bolts. I'll cover those in a second.

First off, what type of metal you want.
Stainless steel is rust RESISTANT. It is NOT unrustable. How much it rusts depends on the alloy. My friggin $1600 SS Aussie exhaust is rusting pretty good. Nothing like holes or such, but it's got a good bit of rust.
In a nutshell, you want type 316 SS. Very close to unrustable. You should only get some slight surface rust if you get any. Even with roadsalt I havn't really got any on the bolt heads.

BUT, it is not as strong as good regular steel, like grade 8.8 or 10.
So you don't want to use it for places that need alot of strength, like engine mount bolts, engine to trans bolts, turbo bolts, ect.

Also, it's EXPENSIVE.
Buy in bulk if you can.

I did more than just my engine. I did almost the entire car. All the small brackets under the car got these. Gas tank bolts, fender bolts, ect.
I did NOT use on brake calipers/brackets, anything supporting the driveline, ect.

The ISC valve, TVIS stuff, and TPS all got black grade 8.8 or 10 allen bolts.
Not 316. IIRC it was because I needed them quick and the high grade steel was locally available. Still looks really good. Like gunmetal.

I used regular cap bolts [SS] for the valve cover because I'm not a huge fan of allen bolts. Just be sure to not overtorque them. That's why Toyota used phillps screws, so you couldn't overtorque.

Also, BLUE [NOT red] threadlocker is your friend.
I used it on almost all the external engine bolts [don't use it inside the engine, or on exhaust/suspension bolts].

Here are Toyotas thread sizes. Lengths and how many of each you're going to have to figure out on your own. They differ from car to car. All are metric [mm].

4.0 x .8 [very few bolts, in fact I believe only the TPS lock bolts and FP/inj resistors are this size]
6.0 x 1.0 [alot of bolts small brackets everywhere, fenders, ect]
8.0 x 1.25 [larger brackets, stuff on the engine]
10.0 x 1.25
12.0 x 1.25
12.0 x 1.5
14.0 x 1.5

The 2 most common sizes by far are 6 and 8.
10 is pretty common.

I got most of my stuff from
http://www.metricspecialties.com/

Once I was back in Ma I got alot from McMaster Carr because my buddies dad owns a machine shop, so I got a bit of a hook up.

Just do a search for metric bolts.

Ricksta
03-07-2007, 03:33 AM
thanks man. im going to get ceramic coating on most of my exhaust components because all the rust is rediculous.

grayscale
03-07-2007, 03:40 AM
Just to add a note about stainless bolts. Do not use/use extreme caution when using in areas of extreme heat. Stainless steel, unlike other metals and alloys, when heated and cooled does not contract back to it's original size, it tends to stay expanded, thus sometimes causing problems when trying to remove stainless bolts. This is one of the reasons you see so much cracking of stainless exhaust items. It looks nice but in the end is not really the best or proper choice. Stainless steels main purpose is for use in abrasive areas where constant rubbing/scratching/etc occurs. It is very hard but has a weak tensile strength compared to other steels and alloys.

MuscleOwnzRice
03-09-2007, 05:13 PM
contact arp, best fasteners out there

alltracman78
03-09-2007, 08:10 PM
Dude, please actually read the whole thread instead of just the title and typing a reply.

In this case you are totally wrong.
ARP [or anyone else] doesn't supply the "bolt kit" he's looking for....
Even if they did, it's not what he's looking for.

grayscale
03-10-2007, 06:30 AM
ARP=application specific and performance grade fasteners. I.E.- they do not deal in common fasteners.