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grayscale
02-13-2007, 02:31 PM
So I've been telling myself for a few months now "I really need to change that head gasket." I have had the infamous oil leak on the back side. Funny thing is I have the reciept from the previous owner where he had it changed at some point at the dealership where they should have used the new and improved gasket that's not supposed to have this problem. Anyhow, about three quarters of the way home from work this morning I smell coolant. Only had about 8 more miles to the house so I just kept on going. Temp never went up but when I got home and popped the lid, sure enough, there was the pretty green stuff bubbling out from under the head. Oh well, now I have a good excuse to do it.

Colossus20v
02-13-2007, 03:13 PM
Atleast it is broken so you can fix it and not just put a new HG in for no reason.

Are you going to just go with a stock HG or do some head work as well?

grayscale
02-14-2007, 02:34 AM
Do you mean stock hg as opposed to another hg? I wish I knew of one like a copper one or something. And no, I don't really have time for too much headwork other than the usual minor rebuild. Besides, I don't see the point with this head unless you can afford cams and I would rather keep my money for a whole other engine.

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 02:55 AM
Good thinking.
Get a headgasket set for a 99 Celica GT.

www.1sttoyotaparts.com

grayscale
02-14-2007, 03:06 AM
Get a headgasket set for a 99 Celica GT.
:??: Enlighten me, what's with the 99 hg?

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 04:30 AM
98 or 99 had MHG stock.
Better than your 92 one.

grayscale
02-14-2007, 05:04 AM
Do all the passages/jackets line up?

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 04:13 PM
They should.

KoreanJoey
02-14-2007, 07:30 PM
but you'll probably want to deck the head and the block...

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 07:39 PM
Not necessarily on the stock MHG....
I believe it's a bit more forgiving than aftermarket ones.

Definitly get them both checked out GOOD though.

grayscale
02-14-2007, 10:12 PM
Oops, broke shtuff. Busted the little plastic thingy that sticks off of the vsv, the one on the underside of the intake mani.(egr vsv I think?) Anyway, how important is it to replace right away? And is there another name for it cause I can't seem to find at the local parts places. I swear, what a PITA this has been. The last person who was in here was a real jackass. I ran into 6 bolts with hexes stripped off. Honestly, I don't even know how they got themin there, much less put any torque on them.

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 10:19 PM
If it's on the underside of the intake man, it's the EGR VSV.
You can only get it an the dealer.
Parts stores won't help you there.

grayscale
02-14-2007, 10:25 PM
Damn yur fast. So I guess this brings up the next que I wanted to talk to you about. I pulled off the egr and it was pretty mucked up. Line was about half full of sludge. A lot of guys have removed thiers and this has been a topic of some debate. I was never really interested since it wasn't a big deal, but after seeing this I'm considering removing it just to keep all that crap out of my system- so the question is, what is your opinion on removing it and what other components should go with it?

alltracman78
02-14-2007, 10:28 PM
Well, mine are welded shut on both engines [truck and car].
Both EASILY passed the NOx levels in emmisions testing [EGR is to lower NOx].

But I still physically have it on the car so it will pass ANY visual.

grayscale
02-15-2007, 03:47 AM
So I can toss the egr vsv then, or will the ecu have a problem with this?

alltracman78
02-15-2007, 06:23 AM
It MIGHT cause a code, if you have a 92.
There's a temp sensor for the EGR. If the ECU doesn't see what it wants to from it, it will store a code.
However I'm not sure if the early system in your Celica will have a fit because it doesn't see hot [no EGR valve open, no hot, and the VSV is what helps to open the EGR valve].

You can always try to track down a used one...

grayscale
02-15-2007, 09:14 AM
If all I get is a code I can live with that. Next question. Been searching around for a while but can't find it if it's here. I don't know if anyone has ever milled this head before and I would like to do the old .040 shave, but I need to find out what the minimum measurement is. I not sure how this supposed to be expressed, but something like minimum distance from head gasket surface (of head) to valve cover surface or something along those lines. Or at least what this measurement would have been from the factory. I hope this makes sense, in other words, if some one has already taken off .0xx, I don't want to take off .0xx more and then have taken off too much.

grayscale
02-15-2007, 03:08 PM
Absolutely insane? I just could off the phone with the nearest head shop that does in depth work and they told $440 for valve work, 3 angle grind, leak test, and resurface- and that was before I even got a chance to tell him I wanted to knock .040 off. Does this sound right? Cause it sounds like a bit much to me.

KoreanJoey
02-15-2007, 03:14 PM
knocking .040 off shouldn't be extra since he's resurfacing NE ways...

grayscale
02-15-2007, 03:37 PM
All right, I just talked to another guy was much more sensible. He said full head service before parts is $175 and $5 for every thousandth extra taken off. He said that new thickness on this head was 4.963-4.967 and that minimum thickness spec is 4.953, although he said as a rule of thumb you can double that spec and be safe, but that it seemed like 4.923-4.927 (.040 of) would be unuseable. What do you think?

alltracman78
02-15-2007, 10:46 PM
Well, I'm not a machinest, so I would be inclined to trust him...
Assuming he's good of course.

Why are you so set on removing .040"?
You really aren't going to see much of a change in your engine as far as power.
And now you will have raised the C:R, possibly made it an interference engine, changed your squish pattern, ect, ect.

Also, just be aware if you get your valve seats recut [which they probably need] you will have to reshim your valves.
Have the machinist measure how deep he cuts the seats, because you will probably have to remove the same amount from the valve tip.

Here's the thing with the 5SFE man [IMO anyways].
It's a great engine for what it was made for.
But it's not mod friendly, unless you go with forced induction.
So as far as spending money on performance headwork, IMO you're wasting your money....

Save it for a swap down the road.

grayscale
02-16-2007, 03:34 AM
Thanks, that's the final decision I made, just save it. I just thought I might do a little while I was in there if it wasn't much. As for the .040, I've been through a lot of threads here over the past year or so and .040 seems to be the recomended amount for raising comp according to guys like nuke, biscutwheels and so on. As for the valve seats, the machine shop was going to do all of it, including shims. I think I'm gonna go over to the NA or Design forum and talk more about that .040 though, it's kinda buggin' me now. Thanks for all your help. Ordered metal hg, should be here today, head looks really good so far, I might post a pic later, but I haven't got it clean enough to check flatness yet. I didn't think it would be this much of a pita to clean. I wish i could just run my brass wire wheel over it.

grayscale
02-16-2007, 07:29 PM
Should I use the torque specs for the 97-99 5sfe head since I am using that head gasket? Do you happen to know them?

alltracman78
02-16-2007, 07:55 PM
You should.
Get new head bolts too.

I'll check the spec at work tomorrow.

grayscale
02-16-2007, 08:01 PM
Got the new head bolts- had to go with FelPro bolts (puts hands up to shield incoming attacks) it was the only thing reasonably available to me. Thanks!

grayscale
02-17-2007, 01:55 PM
Here I have the top off -
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/5/3/3/2/halfempty.jpg

Here is the head all nice and shiney-
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/5/3/3/2/cleanhead1.jpg