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View Full Version : Re-built 3s-fe having problems.



Amaymi
02-12-2007, 05:03 AM
I just recently joined the Celica community about a month ago when I bought my 87 GT automatic. I got it from some guy who only had it for a little while but beat the shit out of the motor and trans. Long story short he ran it without oil until it wouldn’t move anymore then let it sit for over a year. So I bought the car for $400 because the interior and body were in awesome shape, no dents rust, cracks or anything and because I wanted to replace my turbo 88 prelude with a new project.
So I took out the motor and trans and tore the motor apart. I had to have the crank main journals turned .010 over and the rod journals .020 over then did a re-ring kit and put new valve stem seals in the head. I have since put the car back together and the car runs but with some problems that I hope some of you can help me out with.
Ok the first noticeable symptom is that it can sometimes take 3-4 tries to get the car started in the morning. Once the car is started it’s got a stumble. At first it was very slight and hardly noticeable but over the last few weeks its gotten more pronounced and sounds almost like a dead miss. It’ll idle high when cold then gradually idle down as it gets hot like it should but the idle is erratic. I have tried to set the idle as per the Haynes manual but when I set it to the prescribed 700-750 rpm it shakes pretty bad. Also when I try to set the ignition timing I can never get it to 10* as it should. Some times I can get it pretty close but its with the distributor set all the way to one side.
Once I have the car at a spot that it likes when I get in the car and put it into drive it shakes a bit. When driving it the car seems to have almost no power. 65 mph on anything more than level ground is a struggle. It also gets horrible gas mileage. I put $10 in both it and my girlfriend’s Ion on the same day and the Ion lasted about twice as long and we used it about 4x’s as much! If I floor it, it will get up to about 4500 rpm and either just sit at 4500 or kind of bounce off of it like as if it hit a rev limiter in gear and in park. However every once in a while we can get it up to red line but usually by the 3rd time we try it stays at 4500. If I floor it when its in second gear no matter what speed it refuses to downshift and second gear seems to last too long. It’ll go all the way up to 4000 rpm at like 15% throttle. It downshifts fine in 3rd and overdrive however.
Now the things my boss and I have done to fix the problems. First thing we did was to replace the afm with no difference. Then we replaced the throttle body with one I cleaned out with carb cleaner also with no difference. Every time we tried to time it or adjust the idle it was with the car in diagnostic mode and with a timing light.
Compression checked out good and we double-checked the cam timing and that checked out fine. One thing that we did with no difference that should have made a big difference was unplugging the oxygen sensor. I drove the car with the it plugged in and unplugged and there was no difference as well as no codes. I pulled out the cold-start injector from the manifold but left it plugged in and it did not squirt any fuel. I have also tried adjusting the kick down cable with no difference.
So if anybody has any suggestions, no matter how stupid or unlikely they may seem, please give me them. They might remind me of something I overlooked or spark off an idea.

Hookecho
02-13-2007, 01:54 PM
you could check the coil. the fact that you are having a problem setting the timing and that rotating the distributor has little affect leads me to believe your timing belt is one tooth off in either direction. all of your other symptoms are also indicitive to a timing issue.

Amaymi
02-13-2007, 02:08 PM
I checked the cam timeing and it looked fine but I guess it wouldn't hurt to double check it again. Thanks for your in-put!