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JasonX
01-20-2007, 08:35 AM
I've searched for a while now to find out there are no cai's available for us 94-99 celica owners. Does anyone have a good idea on how to build one. At work I got a tube bending machine and I think I'll use 304 stainless steel, but I need more info. Anyone? also I'll start posting my pics soon. Thank you all !!!

Hookecho
01-20-2007, 03:23 PM
here is a link to a do it yourself cai. the only thing it was missing is a bypass filter to prevent hydrolock. http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/cai.htm

i did mine a little differently but it is the same concept. here is what i used.
1. two 25'' long, 2 1/2'' i.d. exhaust pipe(only 1 is really needed if you dont' screw up).....$3.50ea
2. 1 90* elbow.....$5
3. 1 exhaust hanger strap.....$4
4. one 2 1/2'' i.d. rubber elbow from home depot.....$6
5. 1 high flow air filter.....$20
6. a 2'' air filter w/tube & grommet.....$8

i won't go into too much detail because the pics are pretty much self explanatory. btw i bought everything from autozone.

1- you'll have to remove the battery and relocate the coolant reservoir to the other side of the radiator. you will need to extend the hose going into the coolant reservoir by 8''.
2- the exhaust pipe came in 25'' long pieces with a coupling on one end. you'll be cutting the coupling off in this application because the 90* elbow has a coupling on each end. cut a 9'' long pipe for the first joint and a 13'' long pipe for the second joint.
3- place the rubber elbow on the intake manifold and clamp it.
4- take the 9'' piece of pipe and drill a 1/2'' hole in it about 5'' down from the end. this is where you will be placing the 2'' filter. this is important because you don't want to suck water into your engine and this bypass filter will keep that from happening. place the grommet in the hole.
5- next connect the 9'' pipe to one side of the elbow and the 12'' to the other. the 9'' end is going to connect to the rubber elbow on the manifold. then all you do is drop it in the area it is going to be in and rotate the piping until you get it adjusted to where you want and the hood shuts all the way down. use some 1/2'' waferhead or panhead self drilling screws to fasten the pipes together.
6- extend the harness on the iat senor by 12''. you can drill another hole in the cai tubing for it but it will cause an obstruction of air flow. what i did was i extended the wiring harness by 12''. then you will notice that right beside the battery there is a piece of air duct from the stock intake which dead ends behind the head light. drill a hole in this duct and install the iat sensor here. this way it will read the same outside air temp that the cai will be picking up.
7- mount the exhaust hanger next to the battery tray and fasten it to the cai to keep it from moving. install both filters and enjoy the cold air.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/cai3.JPG

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/cai1.JPG

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/cai2.JPG

here is where i relocated the iat sensor at first.
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/iat.JPG

then i moved the iat sensor here.
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/untitled.JPG

if you want it to look real nice paint it.
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/cai5.JPG

CollapsedNut
01-20-2007, 05:27 PM
why did you use that small filter about half way to the throttle body?

BlueDragon
01-20-2007, 08:27 PM
lol can i call re-re on that post?

He said it in that huge whopping one paragraph woulda kept you up all night.... its to keep you from sucking water into your engine in case of any puddles etc it stops the suction so your filter can just dry instead of making your engine no go go get get??

JasonX
01-21-2007, 08:28 AM
Thanks a lot guys for the info. i'm looking forward to start on my cai. one question though: what if I use a 3" O.D. 304 stainless steel tube w/ a reducer, then use a bending machine to route it forward and down my the front bumper. I think the secondary filter is a good idea. I'm not sure if there is a need for the O2 sensor that feeds into the stock air box. what do you guys think? by the way pictures really helped. thanks a lot. can't wait to post my pics.

Hookecho
01-21-2007, 09:33 AM
you can use 3'' o.d. and a reducer if you want. the sensor in your air box is the intake air temp sensor. you will need to use it. if you don't you will get a check engine light. you can drill another hole in the cai tubing for it but it will cause an obstruction of air flow. what i did was i extended the wiring harness by 12''. then you will notice that right beside the battery there is a piece of air duct from the stock intake which dead ends behind the head light. drill a hole in this duct and install the iat sensor here. this way it will read the same outside air temp that the cai will be picking up.

i will take a pic and post it in the morning.

JasonX
01-21-2007, 09:50 AM
thanks for the info. you've been really helpful. didn't fully understand where to stick the sensor, but i'll get it once i see the pic. thanks. finally posted a few pics of mine. mods: so far it's all just for the looks. barely starting to square away under the hood. our custom intake job will be my first.

Hookecho
01-21-2007, 09:51 AM
btw i edited the 1st post so it would be easier to follow.

Hookecho
01-21-2007, 09:55 AM
yeah, ill get that picture to you in a few hours and it will be listed in my first post above.

JasonX
01-21-2007, 07:11 PM
awesome.

Hookecho
01-21-2007, 08:11 PM
the picture of the iat sensor relocation has been added to my first post. i am however planning to move it to filter by drilling a hole in the area of rubber on top of the filter. then pushing it in at an angle that will keep it out of the immediate path of air flow. this way it will get a better reading at idle.

gocelica
01-21-2007, 08:56 PM
i've been wondering how to go about making my own cai. looks really good too. i'm definately going to do this.

celicatrd93
01-21-2007, 10:00 PM
i think the cheapest way and less time. i purchased a carbon fiber intake from ebay for a 96-00 honda civic and it bolted right on and the sensors to. pretty weird. it fit fine and looked great. and i went to emissions right after and it passed no problem. this was about two years ago. i switched to a cold air intake for a honda now from ebay for about 38 dollars shipped with everything bolted right on looks and sounds great. but its up to you man good luck

JasonX
01-22-2007, 02:16 AM
thanks for all the info and the pics. pics really helped out to get the picture in my mind.

Hookecho
01-22-2007, 02:18 AM
^^no problem.

JasonX
01-23-2007, 02:55 AM
do you think i should also route my iat sensor to the original air-box duct or should i go w/ your future plan of having it by the filter on the rubber hose. could you clarify that. which rubber hose? the elbow by the throttle body? looks like that's the only one. just making sure. thnx. by the way at work i checked out the prices for the 3" 304 stainless tubing. it was 20 bucks per foot and minimum purchase was 20 foot. so i'll go to autozone this weekend. hehe.

Hookecho
01-23-2007, 04:01 AM
i'm going to move the iat sensor to the main filter. the reason being that where i have it located now the sensor doesn't really get an acurate reading while the engine is idling. there is no air moving through the stock duct unless the car is moving. so when the car is stopped it is subject from the hot air in the engine compartment. also, because that stock air duct doesn't have the vacuum from the motor sucking air into it anymore then you are simply relying on the forward movement of the car to create air velocity through the duct. being that the duct is located behind the headlight i don't think that there is enough air moving through the duct to combat engine bay temps. all in all the iat needs to read the temperature of moving air inside the intake becuase the ecm uses the signal to help control fuel.

hope that makes sense?

here is a pic of where i am going to mount the sensor. it's represented by the yellow dot.
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/untitled.JPG

JasonX
01-23-2007, 05:29 AM
definately huge help. thanks to you I sound like I really know what i'm talking about now when it comes to intakes. lol.

CollapsedNut
01-23-2007, 06:45 PM
Im still wondering about the bypass filter. You say that it is goin to make less pressure on the main filter so it doesnt suck water..but in order for it to not suck water the pressure being reduced would have be more than the weight of the water...do you think that little filter is releaving enough pressure or just adding hot air to the intake? Im sure there is some very complicated and long mathmatical process to tell us but skrew that...have you drove in the rain with it yet then pulled the tube and see if any water drops are up twords the top? If this actually works I need to do this to my CAI which is relocated into my fender and get a little wet in rain.

Luckynumber5
01-25-2007, 11:46 AM
Actually you could just attach the cone filter straight onto the throttle body, it wont make a difference in power lol, once the car is moving there is enough air moving into the engine bay to make the temperature within 15 degrees f of ambient, and thats not going to hurt your power at all.

ciento44
01-25-2007, 03:59 PM
Or you could do the uber-ghetto short ram like i have. Helped top end, and makes a ridiculous sucking noise. I'm talking, REALLY loud.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9166/shortram1au.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I did mine out of necessity, rather than want. My stock intake hoses were cracked all over the place, so i just ripped it all out, used the good elbow section, and slapped a ricer cone filter on the end. Drilled a hole in the bottom of that short section of hose to plug the IAT sensor, and it works fine.

Make sure you have the sensor plugged somewhere in the intake, otherwise you run the risk of misfiring like crazy below 3200rpms like i did. :)

But yeah.... best $4 mod, ever.

Luckynumber5
01-26-2007, 12:15 AM
Well what people don't really grasp is not all engines get any good gains from just an intake and its not worth spending more than $20 on an intake (unless you want it to look really nice) the intake just isn't going to make a difference on an otherwise stock 5sfe, heck even with all the basic breathing mods(intake, header, header-back) the engine just doesn't have the cams for a natural aspirated build.

JasonX
01-26-2007, 12:56 AM
so pretty much for all celica drivers unless we have the 3sgte engine or we totally modify the engine itself there is no point of trying to get more horsepower. would that be correct?

netman86
01-26-2007, 02:48 AM
Myself i've been trying to figure out of they give any difference in gas milage. No one seems to have a good answer.... I would think the denser o2 would make the engine make a better use of the gasoline, but maybe im off base... or maybe its so minimalistic its pointless.

ciento44
01-26-2007, 03:06 AM
so pretty much for all celica drivers unless we have the 3sgte engine or we totally modify the engine itself there is no point of trying to get more horsepower. would that be correct?


To a point....

Intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, clutch will all improve the fun factor in driving. Will it put down much more power? No. Not at all. But it will much improve the responsiveness of the engine.

JasonX
01-26-2007, 03:25 AM
i wonder what's really important. responsiveness or more horsepower? or do you really need more horsepower to be quicker? i mean, i never race passed 100mph anyways. so, do really need much more horsepower? i usually get beaten because my car didn't pick up as fast. hmmm... i almost finished the exterior and part of my interior. But, i'm totally new to performance upgrades. help... lol

celica9303
01-26-2007, 07:49 AM
fyi:weapon R makes a intake for 90-98(when ever the last year is for the 6gc) i believe they have a dragon intake and the secret weapon intake. i like my sw intake alot (the sw is a short ram.)

JasonX
01-26-2007, 08:08 AM
could you tell me a little more about what you like about the secret weapon? and do you think being short ram is a disadvantage? i always thought if it's short ram it get hot air. please correct me if i'm wrong on that. at the same time at one of the sites they offer free ram air kit with each secret weapon purchase. sounds like a deal. but same time it's either make my own cold air intake from autozone parts or get the secret weapon. what do you think? i did hear secret weapon has a nice sound to it too.

Luckynumber5
01-26-2007, 12:38 PM
It gets hot air when you are sitting still, as soon as the cars moving the engine bay temps drop a lot, dont put too much thought into an intake because you still have stock cams and the intake isnt goin to make a 5 horsepower difference(no matter what kind of intake). Toyota did a great job on all their cars intakes, they are just quiet.

Hookecho
01-26-2007, 02:21 PM
a true cold air intake can yeild you 1-3hp. they don't unlock gobs of power but do offer better engine performance. if you are thinking about dropping $100 on a short ram intake then imho you are wasting money. the stock intake is really good and i would prefer it over a short ram. if you want a short ram intake just do what Ciento did and put your money towards a better mod. :)

the short ram is only going to pick up hot air from the engine bay. even when the car is moving it isn't going to drop the engine bay temp enough to say that it is sucking up cool air. if you don't believe me then place a thermometer under the hood and go for a drive. with a cai you know that the air being introduced to the filter is the same temp as the air outside. granted that once the air reaches the manifold it will have raised several degree's. if the engine bay temp is 150* and the outside temp is 70* which would you rather have.

all in all a cai is better than a short ram. it is better to spend $50 on a do-it-yourself cai than to spend $100 on a name brand short ram. if you plan on doing exhaust mods then the cai will compliment those. you don't have to have cams for a cai to work for you.

CollapsedNut
01-26-2007, 03:45 PM
Myself i've been trying to figure out of they give any difference in gas milage. No one seems to have a good answer.... I would think the denser o2 would make the engine make a better use of the gasoline, but maybe im off base... or maybe its so minimalistic its pointless.

After I made my CAI, put filter in driver fender and ran 2" tube through the hole behind the battery, I say I get a small raise in MPG but not much. My celica has such a small tank that just getting afew more miles from it is noticable.

JasonX
01-27-2007, 02:15 AM
thank you all. i knew that there was something that didn't make sense about the short ram. glad i held off. sure makes sense to get the air from outside of the engine bay. i'm gonna go ahead and have fun making the diy cai over the weekend. I'll post the pics and let you guys know how it turned out. HOOKECHO did you use engine paint on yours? and honestly my engine is still too healthy to drop in a 3sgte anytime soon. Don't wanna just waste it. HOOKECHO how far did you go on your exhaust? did you change the headers as well. or cat-back?

Hookecho
01-27-2007, 02:57 AM
^^i used regular spray paint. just put several coats. as far as exhaust i have a stock header from a 98 camry, 2 1/4'' mandrel bent exhaust pipe, and a borla muffler. although, i haven't gotten around to mounting the header yet, but will probably do it this weekend. i have a mandrel bender so i bent my own pipe and i really don't know how much a muffler shop would charge to do it. probably around $150-$200. as far as a muffler the only reason i have a borla is because i bought it from a friend for $40. otherwise i would have stayed with the stock muffler.

JasonX
01-28-2007, 08:30 AM
FYI
3) Relocate IAT Sensor - This is a very simple modification that will work on a great deal of fuel injected vehicles. The IAT sensor (,Intake Air Temperature 0/00) tells the computer how hot or cold the incoming air is. The computer will then adjust the amount of fuel being injected, as well as make minor adjustments to timing based on that reading.

The problem is that in many vehicles, the IAT sensor is located in the intake manifold, near the cylinder head. Therefore the air that the IAT sensor, reads 0/00 is much hotter than the air, say, in the intake arm. The idea with this mod, is to relocate the sensor to the intake arm. Use JB Weld or similar to patch up the old port for the sensor.

This will cause the computer to believe that incoming air is slightly cooler, causing it to inject more fuel and advance the timing a tad.

Luckynumber5
01-29-2007, 03:38 AM
Yes thats how the IAT sensor works, but even witht he best CAI money can buy and placing the IAT where it will see the coldest air, its still not worth the money you put into the mod for even the jb weld LoL. THere is just no performance to be had N/A in a 5sfe without opening it up for some top end work, and then you have a 5s-fe with a little power, in a fwd Celica. put the money into suspension and love it :)

Hookecho
01-29-2007, 04:53 AM
Yes thats how the IAT sensor works, but even witht he best CAI money can buy and placing the IAT where it will see the coldest air, its still not worth the money you put into the mod for even the jb weld LoL. THere is just no performance to be had N/A in a 5sfe without opening it up for some top end work, and then you have a 5s-fe with a little power, in a fwd Celica. put the money into suspension and love it :)

this thread is not about building an all motor 5sfe. the fact that the stock cams are doodoo has been fully noted from all your posts. however, this thread is mainly about building a cai and what to expect out of one. which has all been explained and left up to his good judgement.

the 5sfe is a reliable motor that responds well to basic bolt ons. even with all the work i've done to mine it's still not a beast, but it is a very spirited daily driver.

if i want to go fast and burn gas i'll grab the keys to my corvette instead.

ciento44
01-29-2007, 04:36 PM
FYI
3) Relocate IAT Sensor - This is a very simple modification that will work on a great deal of fuel injected vehicles. The IAT sensor (,Intake Air Temperature 0/00) tells the computer how hot or cold the incoming air is. The computer will then adjust the amount of fuel being injected, as well as make minor adjustments to timing based on that reading.

The problem is that in many vehicles, the IAT sensor is located in the intake manifold, near the cylinder head. Therefore the air that the IAT sensor, reads 0/00 is much hotter than the air, say, in the intake arm. The idea with this mod, is to relocate the sensor to the intake arm. Use JB Weld or similar to patch up the old port for the sensor.

This will cause the computer to believe that incoming air is slightly cooler, causing it to inject more fuel and advance the timing a tad.


Lol.... that would make sense, and probably explain why i felt such a dramatic difference once i put my $4 short ram on. I moved it pretty far back.

And unfortunately, i'm going to have to disagree with the temperature debate going on here... I still have that initial piping below the battery that came stock on the car. So cold air is still getting thrown up there, and getting sucked into the short ram. (and sucking, it does... this bastard is LOUD.) The other wierd thing is that once i did this mod, my average engine temp from inside on the guage was consistently a bar lower.

JasonX
01-30-2007, 05:59 AM
I'm glad that you felt a difference on your car, but wouldn't make more sense that the air would be even colder if your filter was out of the engine bay? colder air is more dense and it seems like what our engines or all engines want is the denser air. I didn't look into it much yet but isn't that what turbo pretty much is, something that forces more air into the engine and the intercooler to cool the air? i still gotta do alot of reading about the turbo and find out how much maintenance it is before i do any swapping.

Luckynumber5
01-31-2007, 04:45 AM
It's not that much more dense though.

Hookecho, you're right and Ive kind of been going at the point I'm trying to make the wrong way.

I'm trying to say don't spend too much time thinking about what intake to put on your car because it wont make a difference in power, don't over think this.

JasonX
01-31-2007, 06:09 AM
thanks a lot all of you guys. really did figure out not to over think it. but, now i know which cai to build. it will be the homemade design. i will go with minor mods until the new engine in a couple of years. another question though. what's P&P? LOL

Hookecho
01-31-2007, 06:15 AM
^^port and polish

CollapsedNut
02-02-2007, 08:46 PM
I moved my IAT senser today. I havent test drove yet but reving is faster and sounds cleaner as it revs. I moved mine down into the fender where my CAI filter is, drilled a hole in my intake tube and stuck her in there. Easy mod to do and I'll get back to you on the performance part of it.

JasonX
02-03-2007, 08:06 AM
nice. if you could post a pic on where you put the IAT sensor, that would be cool. It does sounds like a quick and easy mod. Let me know how the test drive goes. I got my car in the shop right now. i'm having my axle replaced. it was starting to make clicking noises as i make turns. also figured i change my timing belt too. i had the car about 55000 miles. and ofcourse the water pump. 2 weeks ago i had them change the distributor and the ignitor. they must love me as a customer, lol. but they said they also do engine swaps. the owner is best friends w/ my boss, so i get a little bet better prices and i feel I can trust somewhat. i am thinking about replacing my engine in a year or so. Thought I'll keep it NA though. seems like turbo is a little too fragile. i think instead of the 5sfe single cam, if i put a higher performance dual cam, headers, and exhaust i should get it in a better shape. once I get my car back, i'll definately start on my intake mod.

CollapsedNut
02-03-2007, 01:12 PM
Well performance wise, at top end I feel like it has a little more power, thats about it. Im probably running very rich now too.

Hookecho
02-03-2007, 01:55 PM
i think instead of the 5sfe single cam, if i put a higher performance dual cam, headers, and exhaust i should get it in a better shape. once I get my car back, i'll definately start on my intake mod.

the 5sfe has dual overhead cams(dohc). :)

ciento44
02-03-2007, 04:10 PM
i am thinking about replacing my engine in a year or so. Thought I'll keep it NA though. seems like turbo is a little too fragile. i think instead of the 5sfe single cam, if i put a higher performance dual cam, headers, and exhaust i should get it in a better shape. once I get my car back, i'll definately start on my intake mod.


Sounds like you need a 3sge. (2.0 litre non-turbo.)

The 5sfe isn't a true dual cam. It's dual cam, but without all the cool benefits because it's a slave system. One cam drives the other.

I believe a 3rd gen 3sge should be a fairly easy swap into your car. :)

See if you can get KoreanJoey to give you some info on it, he's got that engine in his 5th gen.

And really.... don't let the "fragileness" of a 3sgte turn you off to it. They're pretty reliable, especially when kept mainly stock with bolt ons, and it will be extremely entertaining in terms of power and speed.

JasonX
02-05-2007, 03:28 AM
yeah that's what i found out. lol. it does have dual cams. ahhh. that's what dohc means hehe.

96celica
02-06-2007, 03:17 PM
I did submit this to the how to article section, however because of several ppl asking me for the how to directly i have decided to put it up as a thread and when ever it gets reviewed as a "how to" it gets reviewed.

"Usual disclamer"

GT CAI How To

Tools and parts:
Metric socket/ratchet set
Screw driver
Hack saw
Dremel
¾ inch hole saw
Permanent marker
90-93 Honda accord CAI system (2 piece 2¾ in. pipe)

Step 1: Prep
Take out the stock air-box. This is done by disconnecting it from the throttle body, Unbolting the air box as well as taking out the resignation from the front fender (note; this is where the air filter will go). When taking out the air-box you will have to disconnect a breather tube as well as a temperature sensor. The temp. sensor can simply be puledl/wiggled free from the rubber flange that holds it on. After pulling the temp sensor out remove and save the rubber flange.

Step 2: More prep
Next thing on the list is to take out or rather detach the fuse box from the car. To do this there are three bolts. Two are under the cover, one is in the back and one is on the side. The third bolt holding the fuse box down is in the front and at the bottom. At this point take note of the bottom of the fuse box as it will be attacked by the friendly dremel.

Step 3: Modify “S” pipe
Now with the engine bay free of the stock air-box its time take a look at how the piping from a 90-93 accord CAI system will be used to route a CAI system for our GT’s. There are two pieces of pipe in the accords CAI package. The first piece has an “S” type shape as well as a small pipe for a breather tube. The second piece is shaped more like an “L” and this is the pipe that will be routed through the fender where the filter element will be mounted.

Test mount the S pipe to the throttle body using the supplied couplers. Next take the L pipe and stick the short end down and into the hole that’s in the fender. If you care about scraping the finish make sure you’re careful when navigating the pipe around the fuse box and into the hole as well as placing cloth anywhere needed.

With both pipe soft mounted you will see that the second bend from the throttle body routes the pipe on a tighter angled vector then is needed to mount up to the L pipe properly. Luckily the L pipes length is just perfect and it reaches all the way out to the second bend on the S pipe and ends just exactly where the cut in the second bend needs to be made. Use the permanent marker to mark off where the cut on the second bend of the S pipe needs to be made and take Mr. Hacksaw to it. Clean off the edge as well as any stray derby and or saw dust.

Step 4: Modify “L” pipe
At this point the only piece of pipe that should be cut is the second bend on the S pipe. The L pipe should be untouched, but not for long. After cutting the second bend on the S pipe a coupler should be able to link the S pipe to the L pipe, which should be routed through the hole and down into the front fender area.

With the front left-hand splash guard off the filter element should be able to be mounted on to the shorter end of the L pipe that’s sticking through the hole. You might note that there is more pipe then needed sticking though the hole. Test mount the filter element to see how much of the pipe needs to be taken off. If the pipe is too far into the filter element it probably will lead to airflow restrictions but it will be louder because of this.

If your planing on fitting a bypass valve as i have done a section of pipe is going to have to cut to allow the fittment of the bpv. It is best to make the cut on the L pipe rather then the s pipe.

Step 5: Temperature sensor
With the S pipe soft mounted to the L pipe, now would be a good time to figure out where you want to drill the hole that will mount the temp sensor. Chose a place and make sure that the sensor will reach it. Then use a ¾ inch hole saw to make a hole in the pipe. The hole should be the same size as that on the air box which held the rubber flange for the temp sensor. Slip the flange onto the hole and test fit the temp sensor.

Step 6: Fuse box modification
Now with the pipes cut and mounted you should be able to try to mount the fuse box back in its original location. When doing this you should be able to see what and how much of the fuse box needs to be taken off.

The bottom of the fuse box can be taken off, this exposes the plug. All that needs to be shaved off is some of the sides and bottom of the fuse box as well as some of the plug. This step is best done with a steady hand and a dremel with a “cut off” blade. A slow yet steady approach is a good idea.

If you don’t want to bust out the dremel then the fuse box can be left alone and either secured by zip ties or longer bolts can be used to hold the box in to place via stock mounting points.

Step 7: All done
Now that the pipes are cut, the hole for the temp sensor is made, and the fuse box is modified the pipes should be able to be mounted using the couplers and air filter that it came with. After getting everything back together start the car and enjoy the sound of cold air intake.

Notes:
EBay has the cheapest 90-93 accord CAI systems, but make sure it is the two piece type like the one on Pro Car Parts.

Some 90-93 accord CAI piping have two breather tubes rather then just one. From my experience with Pro Car Parts and EBay, the chrome set has two where as the powder coated one only has one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urbandork/GTCAI.bmp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb.../Cutpeicess.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urbandork/overall.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb...andbreather.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb...rk/testhole.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urbandork/tempsen.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb.../tempsenout.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb...k/underfuse.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urbandork/down.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urb...lterelement.jpg

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=21648

JasonX
02-08-2007, 07:06 AM
Sounds like you need a 3sge. (2.0 litre non-turbo.)

The 5sfe isn't a true dual cam. It's dual cam, but without all the cool benefits because it's a slave system. One cam drives the other.

I believe a 3rd gen 3sge should be a fairly easy swap into your car. :)

See if you can get KoreanJoey to give you some info on it, he's got that engine in his 5th gen.

And really.... don't let the "fragileness" of a 3sgte turn you off to it. They're pretty reliable, especially when kept mainly stock with bolt ons, and it will be extremely entertaining in terms of power and speed.
yeah. definately. took me a little while. but, i'm sure 3sgte will be great fun. i'm gonna either wait until my engine has some more miles on it, or some people say i can sell my engine to put towards the 3sgte. how about you, what are your plans w/ yours?

JasonX
02-08-2007, 07:08 AM
Sounds like you need a 3sge. (2.0 litre non-turbo.)

The 5sfe isn't a true dual cam. It's dual cam, but without all the cool benefits because it's a slave system. One cam drives the other.

I believe a 3rd gen 3sge should be a fairly easy swap into your car. :)

See if you can get KoreanJoey to give you some info on it, he's got that engine in his 5th gen.

And really.... don't let the "fragileness" of a 3sgte turn you off to it. They're pretty reliable, especially when kept mainly stock with bolt ons, and it will be extremely entertaining in terms of power and speed.
i heard something like 3rd gen 3sge is not legal in use nor the 2nd gen. i read only 1st gen is ok, but too little hp.

ciento44
02-08-2007, 05:28 PM
i heard something like 3rd gen 3sge is not legal in use nor the 2nd gen. i read only 1st gen is ok, but too little hp.

It'll be legal... it'll just have to pass emissions somehow. It's legal in the sense that in Cali, i believe that the engine that you swap into your car has to be the same year or newer, which WOULD make the 1st gen illegal, as far as i can tell.


yeah. definately. took me a little while. but, i'm sure 3sgte will be great fun. i'm gonna either wait until my engine has some more miles on it, or some people say i can sell my engine to put towards the 3sgte. how about you, what are your plans w/ yours?

3sgte. And soon. ;)

JasonX
02-09-2007, 01:34 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/urbandork/tempsen.jpg
96celica what is that black rubber thing for?

Ads28
02-09-2007, 03:37 AM
Its a bypass valve, you use it soo you dont suck water into your engine if your filter ever gets submerged in water

JasonX
02-09-2007, 04:06 AM
Its a bypass valve, you use it soo you dont suck water into your engine if your filter ever gets submerged in water
that makes sense. i wonder why hookecho didn't use one of these bypasses instead.

wickedcelica
02-27-2007, 07:12 PM
OK i have a 1994 st but am currently buildind a cold air for it myself. Its not that hard. There is a pipe you have to order from JC Whitney. Then you have to buy 2 1/2 in pipe couplers to make it work. This pipe will end up through a whole in your driverside fender wall but as long as you can correctly reinstall your splash guard then it will work great. If you are still interested then let me know and i will finish telling you how to get it installed.

JasonX
02-28-2007, 12:39 AM
i would like that. Please continue. visual helps a bunch. thanks bud.

celicaturbo700
08-23-2009, 09:34 PM
^^i used regular spray paint. just put several coats. as far as exhaust i have a stock header from a 98 camry, 2 1/4'' mandrel bent exhaust pipe, and a borla muffler. although, i haven't gotten around to mounting the header yet, but will probably do it this weekend. i have a mandrel bender so i bent my own pipe and i really don't know how much a muffler shop would charge to do it. probably around $150-$200. as far as a muffler the only reason i have a borla is because i bought it from a friend for $40. otherwise i would have stayed with the stock muffler.
my local muffler shop is only charging me 60 bucks for a full header back exhaust. im getting my buddys muffler and welding it on. no cats or nothin. should sound great! :bigthumbu