View Full Version : no heater with winter 06 coming!!!

12-20-2006, 03:46 AM
hey guys i'm goin crazy and freezin my a$$ off with my 93 celica gt.. i put 2 different thermostats in it, new radiator cap, and i'm getting no heat coming out of the vents.. its weird when i replaced the first thermo. it had good heat for bout a week then one day after work it quit.. replaced that and at first it didn't help.one day it was blowing out heat ( felt like i was in a different car) that last bout 2 days and now i'm back to nuttin.. all coolant levels are good and good circulation.. and shouldn't have any air in the lines.. i even called the local toyota dealer to c if mabe they could help.. they told me thay couldn't help..They had no clue.. Has anyone had this kinda problem and what the heck can i do to solve it so this winter i don't have to freeze anymore

12-20-2006, 02:29 PM
They don't have a clue unless you bring the car in and pay them. ;)

Have you made sure the valve on the heater hose is working correctly?
Where did you get the thermostats?

12-21-2006, 01:26 AM
the valve seems to be moving correctly and the first came from auto zone then the second o'rielly.. advance had none in stock.. but this is really frustrating.. yea bout the takin it to a shop.. Not an option ...

12-21-2006, 04:10 PM
does your temp gauge read in the middle area ?

does your car have the auto ac/heater function? are the heater hoses going to the heater core hot ?

answers yes = then one of the servos under the dash is not opening the vent to the heater core, get under the dash and find the lever to move vent and manually open it and wire open so will not close again. note i had to do this to a couple of cars every summer and winter for some customers (work at a toyota dealer)

good luck hope the heater core is not plugged

12-22-2006, 03:20 AM
What you describe is common on the 4th gen Celicas. When the connections are loose or not making proper contact, then the servo automatically turns to cold. A quick fix for now would be to go under the hood and remove the wire that opens and closes the flow through the heater hoses (it simply slips off) and manually open the flow. Clean the surfaces and tape it so that the vibrations in the car donít close it back. In the 4th gen it is usually the selector box, which can be soldered to repair; I am not sure about the 5th gen.

Hope that this helps, Tripp

01-17-2007, 01:43 PM
IIRC, back around 1974, I had a similar heater problem with a 1966 plymouth fury v8. No heat ,good thermostat,engine not overheating and hot / cold air
door working properly. Even the hot water control valve between the motor
and the heater core seemed to work when you moved the temp. selector cable.

The problem,I fould out, was that while the cable moved the control arm on top of the hot water valve, nothing inside the valve moved. The valve was stuck closed & the control arm was just free turning on a chewed out stem. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

The give away clue was a hot inlet hose up to the heater core, but a cold core on the other side of the heat control water valve.

So, being the perfectionist that I am,I removed the heater control valve and replaced it with a 69 cent, 1/2 inch pipe nipple from the plumbing supply house and the heater was still working great several years later when I sold the car. The hot/cold air door seemed to work great keeping the heat out of the interior in the summer time, but I got away with the cheap fix because the car had no functioning ac.

I dont know if your ride has a similar valve in the heating system, but if it does, check it out.
Hope this helps.