View Full Version : Round 2 v.No fuel

10-29-2006, 09:10 PM
Here we go.. round 2 of no fuel

Circumstances now force me to get Celibaby running yet once again (this is what...#3 or 4?) Blazer was sold, so I'm unable to drive that around.

Anyway, car won't start at all. It'll crank and crank, but not fire. Basics checked

Air - present and sucking
Spark - sparking and almost blew the hood off
Fuel - ??? no fuel

Narrowed it down to no fuel. Car has just under 1/2 tank of gas. I've bridged the terminals (thanks to MrWOT for getting me the proper pinouts to bridge) and turned the ignition on. I don't hear anything coming from the pump (below the rear bench). With these terminals bridged, I removed the cold start injector and turned ignition on, no fuel came out.

Upon speaking to Luni, he thinks that the 3sfe sends the fuel pump signal (to pump fuel) from the dizzy.. if the dizzy is goin then fuel is flowing (so bridging the terminals will produce no effect at all). Anybody able to confirm this?

So I've narrowed it down to the following:

fuel pump dead
pressure regualator
blockage in the lines
fuel filter needs replacment
fuel pump strainer needs cleaning

Any suggestions/comments/bitching to add anyone?

10-30-2006, 05:14 AM
Ummmm..... I think you should wipe everything off your list of possibilities except maybe a dead fuel pump. But really..........? Do you have power to the fuel pump? Because it helps to get power to the fuel pump........just for the record. So lets add that question to your list of possibilities. Check all the fuses and fusable links first, then test for power at teh fuel pump. Then If you have power and no fuel then you need a fuel pump which in that case you would also replace the pick-up screen and the fuel filter. Very rarely does a plugged up fuel filter cause a vahicle to not start...........but regularily they would start and die. Unless maybe the filter is plugged up with really nasty crap........But I've seen some really nasty ones that always still would start then die.

10-30-2006, 08:15 AM
Did you check to see if it's getting 12v at the pump?

10-30-2006, 03:03 PM
Haven't gotten to check the power @ pump yet (was to busy watching it blow up).

MrWOT....I was able to get it to run for a few minutes, but with starter fluid. Gonna check out the voltage.

Stupid question,
Can anybody get me a visual diagram of the 4g diag port, along with the fuse boxes and relay boxes for a 4th gen GT?

11-08-2006, 10:36 AM
I'm pouring thru the 4th gen BGB pages on the homepage, can someone confirm that the wiring and fuseable links are the same throughout all the models? (ST, GT, GTE)

From what I can tell, I think they are the same (It's 2:30am right now and I'm trying to figure this out so I can get to work on it once I'm walking again).

So I bridged teh 2 necessary Terminals (Thanks MrWOT!), turned ignition on, and no fuel came outta the cold start, nor did I hear the pump kick on.

I checked all fuses, I had a 20a fuse that was blown in the engine bay fuse holder. This was replaced, with the same effects. Here's a picture of what goes on.


Couple more questions (I still haven't pulled out my repair manual)

1. Am I looking at the correct connector that carries power to the pump?

2. Am I testing the correct wires to verify power @ the pump (tested the far left and far right wire on the connector on the left).?

11-10-2006, 08:51 PM
that appears to be the correct connector. Have you seperated the connector halfs and looked inside at the terminals to see what it look like in their? If that wire really is getting warm like that then I would suspect that you would find corrosion build up inside the connector and/or the terminal is worn out and not tensioning correctly for a good connection. I actually just ran into this problem on monday I think it was. EVERYTHING looked fine but if you wiggled the fuel pump connector you could sometimes get it to work. Upon closer inspection of teh terminals the posative pump wire terminal had gotten warm at one time and screwed up the temper of the metal and thus it would not make good connection since the built in spring prong was completely folded over and not tensioning at all. Ended up replaceing the connectors and has worked fine since.

Also check that the ground is good too where it hooks to the chassis.

11-13-2006, 09:51 PM
Yeah all that looks good :(

There was power @ the connector, yet to know if power @ the pump. I prodded teh wire after the connector, and it had power too so i'm assuming there's power to the pump. Looks like teh tank comes down next weekend :(

11-14-2006, 01:48 AM
yeah I'd say you have to varify that you are getting power to the pump now because the wiring from that connector to the pump could have a fault. You might after its all said and done run a redundant ground to the chasis on teh fuel pump side of that connector to make sure its gertting a good ground. But I still think you have a connection problem somewhere in teh circuit..........it's just trying to locate it. And remember..... you can have power to the pump and still have a bad connection. You need to test the circuit under load to know for sure. A old sealed beam haedlamp works good for this test. If you can power up the headlamp in place of where the fuel pump is then you know the circuit is good. Sometimes you can test all day long and have power and ground everywhere you test but as soon as the circuit goes live with a load on it the loose or bad connection won't handle the load and the device won't get the power then.