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ty_44_69
10-06-2006, 09:46 PM
Took my Celica (91 5sfe) into get the etest done today and I failed. The car is completely stock with 145k kms. The car runs fine, I don't blow smoke, as far as I know everything appears to be ok, except I can't pass an etest.
Before I brought it in I put 94 octane into an empty tank and drove it hard for 45 min.
I failed on the NO rating.
NO p.p.m: LIMIT = 0757 Reading = 0836
Other ratings:
HC ppm Limit = 66 Reading = 2
CO% Limit = .37 Reading = .23

Everything else passed with flying colours, like not even close.
So on the sheet they hand me it says:
High NOx on Driving Test
- Inoperative exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)
- Excessively lean AFR
- Malfunctioning CAT
- Excessive spark advance
- Faulty Thermostatic Air Cleaner system
- Faulty cooling system

So the question is where do I start looking?
I was thinking my ignition system is a little old anyways, so maybe I should get a new dis. cap, plugs, wires. Maybe check my timing as well.
I don't think I should have to look at anything else because the other readings were in check. I was also thinking get some of that "Garunteed to Pass," fluid and stick it in the car as well.
Please add some suggestions.
Thanks

lburner
10-06-2006, 10:13 PM
chk your EGR

GlHlOST
10-06-2006, 10:21 PM
I was also thinking get some of that "Garunteed to Pass," fluid and stick it in the car as well.
what is this? wats it called and where can I get it? any know of any negative effects if any?

lburner
10-06-2006, 10:31 PM
man that shit dont work.. well it didnt work for me but its only $5 or so so it wont hurt i guess.

where u live at how many times can do the E-test fail

T-spoon
10-06-2006, 11:22 PM
High nox usually has to do with leanness. It's too hot in there. The first thing people usually say is EGR because if the EGR isn't working properly it does get a bit hotter. You can check the EGR but I'd be more inclined to go with the lean AFR. My 94 failed a test recently with some crazy high nox readings. I didn't think my overbore would make it significantly more lean of an AFR, but it's the second year in a row it failed, and there are less than 50k miles on the rebuild (everything from block to head was cleaned out except the exterior EGR parts for that rebuild) Last year I replaced the EGR, cleaned things out, still failed. Removed the factory cat and put a new one in and barely passed. This year the readings are even worse. At cruising RPMs they skate on the edges of lean with the factory tunes to improve emissions (and of course fuel economy), but I personally think that if things are just a little off for some reason, be it a modification or (since yours isn't modded) some other imbalance in the system somewhere you can end up just too lean and end up increasing nox. I noticed as well that my HCC and CO output was miniscule whenever the nox was through the roof. I think emissions testing is mostly a balancing act with the car's tune, as you can take heavily modified cars with no emissions equipment and tune them to "blow clean" for the tests.

So.. not much useful information in reguards to fixing your problem I'm afraid, I just hate the idea of replacing a bunch of junk and spending a lot of labor hours on work that probably isn't the root of the problem.

ty_44_69
10-06-2006, 11:58 PM
ya what I'm going to do since it's long over due is:

replace wires, cap, rotor, plugs, and clean EGR.
The mofo was hot in there, and he didn't have the fan on blowing air at the rad. Should they not have that fan on? If so I'm going to lose it if that was the only problem.
Thanks for the info guys.

2kSnakEater
10-07-2006, 04:28 AM
just wave a $50 and say if the car passes, the $50 is his.

sbettencourt
10-07-2006, 04:32 AM
had the same problem with my old 5sfe. retarded the timing and it passed.

ty_44_69
10-07-2006, 04:52 AM
how can I retard it right on the spot?
Or do I need a timing light and the whole deal? What should I retard it to?
Thanks

andy
10-07-2006, 08:05 AM
to retard it . you need a 12mm or 14mm wrench, i forgot which, loosen the one bolt on the dist, 2 bolts for the 3s. and turn the dist counter clockwise about 10 deg. Its a good idea to mark where it was set before moving it. and then move to alabama where there are no tests to speak of.

extremeskillz
10-07-2006, 03:39 PM
yea check all exhaust parts and the charcoal canister. it probably something as simple as replace minor parts like PCV, EGR, the canister itself, etc. good luck

ty_44_69
10-07-2006, 06:01 PM
I cleaned the EGR filter by blowing it out today. Didn't really seem to get much out of it.
I'm going to change the plugs, wires, cap, dizzy, and retard the timing a little. And I'll tell the guy to turn on the fan this time, instead of running my car in a hot room.
I wonder if it could be the charcoal canister? I don't think so because all that does is vent the pressure out of the tank, I think? I'm not sure what else the charcoal canister does, maybe I'm wrong.

ty_44_69
10-07-2006, 10:24 PM
UPDATE!

Ok so I'm changing plugs first, NGK Platinums. Old Plugs are NGK iridiums, 1,2,4 are WHITE white white.
I'm guessing that was because of ignition timing.
I checked timing after I did all the changes and it was 15 BTDC, so I changed it back to 10-11, it moves around slightly not sure why?.
Spark plug #3 is in a bath of oil. The oil went all the way to the third thread. I only get a puff of blue smoke on start up besides that the power feels good, my gas mileage has been good. So I'm not sure why all the oil?
I changed the dizzy, wires.
Hopefully it was just the timing that caused me to fail. Any help on the above questions would be nice thanks guys.

Dan3312
10-08-2006, 04:19 AM
You did jump the two things in the Diagnostic port while doing your timing to keep the ECU from changing it didn't you?

85gtsblackman
10-08-2006, 06:43 AM
your plug was in a bath of oil cause your spark plug tube seals are starting to go, just get the valve cover set from autozone, like 30 bux or so, and u gotta pull the vavle cover to get to the things anyway, also replace pcv and hose while your at it

ty_44_69
10-08-2006, 03:45 PM
You did jump the two things in the Diagnostic port while doing your timing to keep the ECU from changing it didn't you?
Nah, I read the BGB and it didn't mention anything.


your plug was in a bath of oil cause your spark plug tube seals are starting to go, just get the valve cover set from autozone, like 30 bux or so, and u gotta pull the vavle cover to get to the things anyway, also replace pcv and hose while your at it
Ya I noticed the hoses are all in need of changing.
I already have a OEM valve cover. Do you have a part number or anything for the plug tube seals?